What do you recommend for my next car?

  • Thread starter monkeybdg
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Hi guys
Currently I race in the Dodge Viper SRT 10 and the TVR Cerbera speed 12. For competitions such as the world supercar festival I find that I can't do very well with these two (unfortunately I have to do it in B-spec, the IA license is proving very elusive :grumpy: ). I'm thinking about a new car, maybe around the 150-200k Cr mark? Maybe the ford GT?
 
Honnestly, I'd complete all my License before starting to race, this will help you alot since you say having difficulty.

Then, in that case, I would buy a used Skyline and tune it to have 500 hp to be able to enter the race...

Then I would remove some of the power to get 200 A-Spec... But that's me :sly:
 
snyp has hit the nail on the head, getting the license and driving yourself will make it so much easier which will leave you free to pick from a much larger range of cars that you could use for instance if YOU drive the championship with a ford gt you could cream the lot of 'em, but leave it to B-Spec Bob and your chances are significantly lowered as it doesnt overtake in places where it often could. However i am not saying that the ford gt is the one to go for, its personal preference, if you like it go for it, but a Speed 12 is most likely more then up to the task if its in your hands.

Good luck with the license
 
Hey Snyp, currently my Dodge and Cerbera are around 1100bhp (cerbera slightly higher, dodge slightly lower) - it doesn't make much sense to buy a skyline and make it 500hp does it?

I'll take your licence advice though- I'm stuck on this damn Nurburgring lap in a BMW (oh and yeah I have found the guide for it)
 
Hey Snyp, currently my Dodge and Cerbera are around 1100bhp (cerbera slightly higher, dodge slightly lower) - it doesn't make much sense to buy a skyline and make it 500hp does it?

Power is meant to be a supplement to skill, not a substitute. If the only reason you are winning races is because you have twice the power as the opposition, I would recommend going into arcade or somethink and racing some slower cars, and choosing a difficult setting. That is only if you need a lot of help with your driving. If you are really bad, 500 hp might be faster because you will stay on track easier.

On your next car, it really depends on where you are and what you have. If you enjoy street cars, get something that is unlike anything you have. To move on, get a lower class race car.
 
Hey Snyp, currently my Dodge and Cerbera are around 1100bhp (cerbera slightly higher, dodge slightly lower) - it doesn't make much sense to buy a skyline and make it 500hp does it?

I'll take your licence advice though- I'm stuck on this damn Nurburgring lap in a BMW (oh and yeah I have found the guide for it)


Quite normal that you don't win if you're not very skilled (no offence here) or if you let B-Spec Bob do the job... Bob... He's more than weak with highly tuned cars...

And an 1100 Dodge is good for drag racing, you get no stability with a car like that thus not much control exiting of corners.
A 500 hp -600 hp Skyline with racing suspension and Racing tranny will be better in these races since it has a natural stability that Cabrera doesn't have and will never have... Or, keep your Viper (if your Dodge is a Viper) and remove some power out of it... Like 500-650 hp would be good... But put on some racing brakes and tune it all up... You're going to have alot better experience than with a beast of a 1000 hp. 1000 hp = Drag racing or 300 mph record.

Do the license, then PRACTICE before trying to drive an 1000 hp beast...
And for the 'ring... Take it slow on the beginning... Learn the corners, the track and the car... Then go faster and faster... Gold license isn'T a must for now... The bronze is way enough to start.

GL on your races,
Snyp.
 
While I disagree with how to learn a track, a 500 hp skyline is great. Get the Mine's and keep it stock. It is very easy to drive. Wheelspin is minimal due to its AWD. The most trouble you will get into is constant right-left turns, where you may get the rear out enough to drift.

When learning a track, I often take the corner how it looks (often overdoing it) and adjust accordingly. Drive it over and over. I have done hundreds of laps on the Ring and I only now feel comfortable wit most of the track. For the purposes of the test, take it slow. Get a bronze. You won't waste tons of time learning the track and you should get a bronze or so.
 
I have done hundreds of laps on the Ring and I only now feel comfortable wit most of the track. For the purposes of the test, take it slow. Get a bronze. You won't waste tons of time learning the track and you should get a bronze or so.


Well... If it's a guided lap... Just fallow the pace car... Don't push and you'll get bronze...

I guess everyone has its way to learn a track.
 
I had a few goes just then, finished the track once and got 10 minutes 18 seconds:dunce: The other 3 or so times I pushed too hard and went off the rails or lost concentration
 
Yeah, I know how you feel. I rarely get a lap without putting one wheel off the road. Just do what the pace car does. If that fails, drive 5 to 10 laps in Arcade. You will have it down quick.

Oh yeah, watch out when you do the Evo one. That was tricky.
 
Honnestly, I'd complete all my License before starting to race, this will help you alot since you say having difficulty.

Then, in that case, I would buy a used Skyline and tune it to have 500 hp to be able to enter the race...

Then I would remove some of the power to get 200 A-Spec... But that's me :sly:

Yes, yes, and yes. More specifically a Nissan Skyline GT-R N1 '91.

Why? It's easy on tires, doesn't need much tuning to work ok, is pretty tolerant and forgiving, Bob does a credible job driving it, and it should provide a reasonable platform for an aspiring driver to cut his teeth on.

They go for $15,076 used. Or if you are lucky enough to hit the right cycle, $36,592 with 6.2 miles on the odometer. Personally I wouldn't bother waiting for the 6.2 mile car to come up unless it just happened to.

Here is how I would set it up:

GT Auto:
Wash $50
Oil Change $50
3D Type DW Wing $1200

Amuse Tune Shop:
Turbo:
Turbo 5 (Original) $72,000, 308HP->548HP, $300/HP
SP Intercooler (Sports) $1,800, 548HP->570HP, $82/HP
Engine:
Racing Chip $1,500, 570HP->592HP, $68/HP
Exhaust:
SR (Semi Racing) $2,900, 592HP->639HP, $62/HP
Drivetrain:
Flywheel SP (Sports) $450
Clutch SP (Sports) $1,700 Optional
Other:
Weight Reduction:
Stage 1 $1,200, 1470kg->1337kg, -133kg, Unit cost $2,778 HP/kg
Stage 2 $5,500, 1337kg->1293kg, -44kg, Unit cost $38,462 HP/kg (Optional)
Rigidity Refresh Plan $$50,000 (Optional)

Special Note: Stage 3 $22,000, 1293kg->1249kg, -44kg, Unit cost $153,846 HP/kg (No, too expensive for the return.)
Tires:
S1 (Sports Hard) $5,100
S3 (Sports Soft) $6800 (Optional)
R1 (Racing Super-Hard) $6800
R2 (Racing Hard) $10,500

Settings (Tuning):
Driving Aids:
ASM 1 (both)
TCS 2
Downforce 30 (both)

So if my math is correct, the total cost as shown (starting with 47K mile car) is $120,226.

And one other thing that was implied but never explicitly stated, that you are using a force feedback steering wheel and a set of pedals? If not, that might be something to consider too, but that would be a cost in real currency not GT credits :ill:.
 
Very nicely laid out, M2R. :)
M2R
Special Note: Stage 3 $22,000, 1293kg->1249kg, -44kg, Unit cost $153,846 HP/kg (No, too expensive for the return.)
I agree with your basic theory, but not this part - Full weight reduction is well worth the outlay.

Also... Go for Racing Flywheel and Triple Plate clutch for faster gearshifts.

Actually, I shall proceed to find some more fault here, and advise very strongly to use no driving aids at all, the GT-R32 does not need them.
In fact, change the car altogether, and go for the 1995 Skyline GT-R N1 (R33), as it's more advanced ATTESA-ETS system gives it less understeery characteristics.

If you're going to have an Original or Stage Four turbocharger (I'd recommend Original if you're going for full-on power), you will be better served by a Racing Large Intercooler, too.
A Racing Exhaust Kit will match these better than the Semi-Racing alternative, too - the power gained here can be surprising.

Get a less obscene rear wing, too ;)

If you can get a 1064bhp Viper around a track faster than I can get a 906bhp Skyline around the same track, I'd like to hear from you. More power is rarely the best solution - the Viper and Cerbera Speed 12 need very little power above what the come with. In particular, I would say that adding power to the Cerbera from standard is almost foolhardy.

These are just my opinions, but I hope you can take them as good advice - they haven't let me down yet. 👍

DE
 
Thanks for your comments Dark Elite and Leonidae.

Leonidae I did try the setup you suggested for the R32 and it was very stable and nice and fast as promised.

Also Dark Elite I jumped over to your gallery and the first photo in the Nissan GT-R LM Concept Race Car - Laguna Seca (ESES1) really made me laugh. What is up with the Shelby's rear wheel?

I know there are potentially unlimited combinations of cars/setups that would work for monkeybdg and I just happened to think of this one. Heck I didn't even claim it was a really good choice. On the "Why?" line all I claimed was that it was a "reasonable" starting car for a novice and "doesn't need much tuning to work ok". In fact it was purposely setup with very little available to adjust/misadjust.

And again thanks for pointing out areas for improvement, if I ever stop learning it's probably because I have stopped moving :scared:
 
Power is meant to be a supplement to skill, not a substitute. If the only reason you are winning races is because you have twice the power as the opposition, I would recommend going into arcade or something and racing some slower cars, and choosing a difficult setting.

That really is priceless advice. :bowdown:
+rep from me for a great post. 👍

There is a point to the licence tests. They teach you about braking points, racing lines and track layouts. The Pace Car isn't there to annoy, but to teach. Instead of concentrating on how fast you're going, pay attention to the lines he takes, where he brakes and memorise the track. Some folks memorise a speed value through a bend, others use revs. Either way, knowing a track and being able to run clean laps will benefit you far more in this game than having a fat stack of cash and modifiying your way out of trouble.
The reason you're having difficulty is that it's notoriously difficult to control a 1100HP car. You come to rely on the point - squirt - crash - recover - point - squirt - crash..... etc, etc. method of running races.
Even in an 1100HP car, someone in a 400HP car that can run clean laps will still beat you.
Practice the tracks in the cars with the HP modifications removed. You'll find they're easier to control, and you're more likely to stay on the track. If you stay on the track you'll turn quicker laps. Use the time trial function in arcade mode, or practise mode in GT mode to race against your own ghost. You'll get quicker and quicker as you do, it's a positive feedback thing. :) First you'll be taking off seconds with each lap as you learn the track and make fewer and fewer mistakes. Less mistakes = less time in the sand = faster laptimes. Once you're lapping on the track cleanly each time you'll start to realise where the best lines are, and put into practise some of the things you learned early on in the licence tests. As you do this your times will continue to drop until you're shaving off 1/10ths from your times. When you can make 3 or 4 clean laps in a row, you're ready for some of the harder events. Remember this mantra "Slow in = Fast out" Going into a bend at full tilt will only result in you crashing and costing time. If you brake early, take the bend slower, but cleanly, you can get on the power and by the end of the next straight you be travelling faster than if you've been digging yourself out of the sand or recovering from a spin or crash into the barriers. And you'll wind up lapping faster. ;)
It's possible to buy a Dodge Viper SRT10, take it as it comes to the Supercar Festival and win. No modifications necessary. You'll need to be able to race without leaving the track though.
It's also widely known that there are certain cars which you'll do well to avoid in this series. The Cadillac Cien and VW Nardo W12 spring to mind. If these are the cars you're having difficulty beating, then simply exit the series using the icon that looks like a hand in front of a steering wheel before you start the first race. It will allow you to exit the series without costing you any game days or affecting your win ratio. Now go back into the series and you'll get a different lineup. Repeat this process until you find a lineup you think you can beat.
 
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