- 21,195
- United States
- nk4e
What have you done to your car today?
- Thread starter Perfect Balance
- 6,673 comments
- 394,043 views
ROAD_DOGG33J
Premium
- 14,318
- IL, USA
- holyc0w1
- holyc0w
- 11,343
- Chicago, iLL
- GTP_Nismo
Well, looks like a wheel bearing is going. Took axle out seemed fine, joints intact. The sound threw me off cause I've never heard it sound so bad. I'm used to the occasional rubbing sounds but it's mostly just the whoowhoowhoo noise. I also think the bearing brace itself shattered since at low speed it sounds like an unwinding spring noise. The noise also doesn't come on till after there's some heat built up so that should've been my first clue. It also doesn't appear unless there's load on the wheels. Looks like my birthday weekend will be spent taking out suspension components, knuckles, hubs, and pressing bearings in and out. At least I know it's safer to drive than what I thought.
- 6,899
- GTP_event / kevinr6287 (farming account)
placed an order through the local tire shop for some new rubber. getting some all-seasons (doesnt snow down here enough for summer/winters). I chose the Continental ExtremeContact DWS in the size of 225-45R18 91Y SL. took ages to come to that sizing decision. OEM tires are 93 rated, but 91 should be more than enough to take the load. looking forward to see how they do! first thing is to put on some vinyl tire dressing to protect and shine them, though.
- 6,899
- GTP_event / kevinr6287 (farming account)
my bad, for some reason i thought it was vinyl based. I just started using this stuff: http://www.optimumcarcare.com/obtgel.htm?li=7
they make great products. it does go on milky but it is water based. first time I used it it didnt last very long, but then again the old tires were all brown and nasty and I made the mistake of using black magic on them which coated them with oily black crap and made oil slicks in the apartment complex parking lot. I expect better results using this stuff from the get-go
Eric.
Premium
- 8,515
- GTP_Eric
- Ebiggs
I've always used STP's 'Son of a Gun' tire spray. From my experience anything that says it "shines" won't dry and will continue to sling on your wheels and side of the car for days after spraying it. The STP product cleans and blackens in one step, and if anything you may want to come along and wipe the residue off your wheels from what will inevitably drip as it runs off the sidewall. I've heard people swear by Westley's Bleche-White, but I bought some and while it was good for cleaning them up, they didn't stay looking good for very long at all.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Ok, kind of big update, new starter motor, fuse box, removed the dodgy boost tap. With the air/fuel ratio meter hooked up the car is idling high at around 1100rpm when warm, and idles very lean (around 19.0 AF) am thinking it has something to do with the idle air valve, will check this out this weekend.
On a lighter note, I just connected the boost line from the turbo straight to the wastegate to see what kind of boost I was producing at standard (with the T-VSV disconnected) and it was bang on 7psi. Good. So, cut the line, put my boost controller in, and took it for a few test runs aiming to set it at 12psi. Stopping occasionally to make an adjustment, first I tried 9psi then increased it to 10, then 11, finally I dialed in 12psi, and it feels really good, with an AF of 11.5 when on boost, so I'm happy with that, but am still going to put in on the dyno to make sure all is safe (after I sort out the idle air problem).
All in all, hopefully without speaking to soon, I am much happier than I was a month ago!
On a lighter note, I just connected the boost line from the turbo straight to the wastegate to see what kind of boost I was producing at standard (with the T-VSV disconnected) and it was bang on 7psi. Good. So, cut the line, put my boost controller in, and took it for a few test runs aiming to set it at 12psi. Stopping occasionally to make an adjustment, first I tried 9psi then increased it to 10, then 11, finally I dialed in 12psi, and it feels really good, with an AF of 11.5 when on boost, so I'm happy with that, but am still going to put in on the dyno to make sure all is safe (after I sort out the idle air problem).
All in all, hopefully without speaking to soon, I am much happier than I was a month ago!
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
- 1,164
- GTP_uk86ze
For my preparation to the ring in 20 days time I have done the following in the past few days to the z3M.
Simota carbon induction.
Larini full sports exhaust system and I believe this is the only system ever made for a z3m.
Yellow stuff pads all round.
Alot more things still to do but will add once their done.
For the s14a I changed the project Mu pads(new) for some yellow stuff aswell.
Simota carbon induction.
Larini full sports exhaust system and I believe this is the only system ever made for a z3m.
Yellow stuff pads all round.
Alot more things still to do but will add once their done.
For the s14a I changed the project Mu pads(new) for some yellow stuff aswell.
- 6,899
- GTP_event / kevinr6287 (farming account)
Put on some new tires and had the front toe zeroed. I really hope these tires improve after they break in, because right how the steering response is appalling... Only driven them for 5 miles though so they'll improve some.
- 11,343
- Chicago, iLL
- GTP_Nismo
Wheel bearing has a good .25-.5" of play in and out of the hub, enough to pull the axle, with circle clip, out of the trans. Drove the car since I couldn't replace the bearing this weekend. The axle was bad as well, It emptied it's insides all over my wheel well and suspension. Waiting for Raxles to come in and shopping for a bearing press.
- 594
- Hamburg
- Turbo--Kai
added two stickers...GTRP (german Gran Turismo forum)
http://f.666kb.com/i/bm6uzem9yrupjm48o.jpg
http://f.666kb.com/i/bm6ux74c2abeb8smw.jpg
http://f.666kb.com/i/bm6uzem9yrupjm48o.jpg
http://f.666kb.com/i/bm6ux74c2abeb8smw.jpg
Keef
Premium
- 25,184
- Dayton, OH
- GTP_KeefRacer
- GTP Keef
My sunroof panel has been flaking off and growing rust slowly but steadily ever since I got the car. So I'm going to fix it.
Last weekend I prepped the car for sunroof removal by removing pretty much the whole top half of the interior. All the plastic panels and things like sun visors had to go so I could get the roof liner out - the sunroof comes out from the bottom. Today I continued by taking the shoulder belt mechanisms out, which are rails running along the pillars and ceiling, and then removing the whole sunroof mechanism. I then removed the steel panel off the top of that and the I went to work.
So far I've scraped all the paint off and am in the process of attacking the rust, some of which is pretty chunky, with steel wool, sand paper, files, and a wire wheel. The goal is to remove all corrosion down to the shiny metal. After that I'll be cleaning, drying, and priming the surface. I'll wet sand that, clean and dry again, then paint it. Should be good to go for a long time.
Last weekend I prepped the car for sunroof removal by removing pretty much the whole top half of the interior. All the plastic panels and things like sun visors had to go so I could get the roof liner out - the sunroof comes out from the bottom. Today I continued by taking the shoulder belt mechanisms out, which are rails running along the pillars and ceiling, and then removing the whole sunroof mechanism. I then removed the steel panel off the top of that and the I went to work.
So far I've scraped all the paint off and am in the process of attacking the rust, some of which is pretty chunky, with steel wool, sand paper, files, and a wire wheel. The goal is to remove all corrosion down to the shiny metal. After that I'll be cleaning, drying, and priming the surface. I'll wet sand that, clean and dry again, then paint it. Should be good to go for a long time.
- 3,008
- You're crazy if you think
- I can afford either of these.
Fine tuned my amp today, so now all I have to do is dial in my +/- amount of sub on my HU 
- 23,800
- Philippines
Put the car on the chassis puller last week... and waited in line. No... that one isn't mine. I couldn't visit when the car finally got its turn on the machine.
They take your readings by laser, then tie your car to the rack and proceed to stretch it limb from limb. Costs a mint, but it's the only way to get it straight. After that accident back in 04, my alignment has been impossible to work on. Hope this fixes it. Spent around $300, hope it's worth it.
- 8,480
- P_Balance
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Well, I'm lucky to have a good friend who is a mechanic! We have been working through a problem my car has been having with high idle and running lean, I've replaced numerous items that we've found needed attention along the way, we think we now have the culprit - faulty water temperature sensor, put in in a pot, compared resistance to temp, it was way out, heated up pot and resistance didn't move. So...have to get new one from Toyota...it better be an off the shelf item. I'm glad we now may have cracked it, but I'd better not speak too soon...
- 3,202
- Murcie LP710
Drove 1000kms in a day in the Skyline, a return trip to Melbourne which is about 450kms from where I live plus some city driving. Another 22k until the old Box cracks the 300k mark!
SuperShouden
(Banned)
- 7,542
- SuperShouden
Driving home from church and got to see an very nice '87 Lotus Esprit Turbo HC. in Ferrari Red. It was very gorgeous. and looked VERY well taken care of.
This also proves my point that the city I live it a little secret sexy car haven. I mean, it was me in my Pontiac Sunbird, two Saabs and the Lotus. It easily stood out.
This also proves my point that the city I live it a little secret sexy car haven. I mean, it was me in my Pontiac Sunbird, two Saabs and the Lotus. It easily stood out.
Joey D
Premium
- 47,569
- Lakes of the North, MI
- GTP_Joey
- GTP Joey
Replaced the broken lens with the new driving light housing I picked up from MINI and then decided to paint my white lens covers black. $4 for Kylon Fusion paint was a whole lot cheaper then $60 for OEM black driving light covers.
Turned out decently well:
Turned out decently well:
- 27,222
- United Kingdom
Started servicing the MX5 today.
Only my spark plug remover bar disagreed with plug #4:
Plug was in very tightly indeed so improvised on the T-handle bar with a couple of metal bars as extensions for more leverage. And then the bar sheared off. And then I had to spend 30 minutes fishing out the remainder of the tool from the bottom of the spark plug recess.
Got a refund on the tool (only bought the naffing thing today) but now have to drive on two different types of plugs to the garage tomorrow to get them to change the last one (was intending to go there just to get the brakes done).
Only my spark plug remover bar disagreed with plug #4:
Plug was in very tightly indeed so improvised on the T-handle bar with a couple of metal bars as extensions for more leverage. And then the bar sheared off. And then I had to spend 30 minutes fishing out the remainder of the tool from the bottom of the spark plug recess.
Got a refund on the tool (only bought the naffing thing today) but now have to drive on two different types of plugs to the garage tomorrow to get them to change the last one (was intending to go there just to get the brakes done).
- 6,899
- GTP_event / kevinr6287 (farming account)
that thing looks so cheap... why not just buy a socket? The socket/wrench set I bought came with one and they're probably only like $15 individually. A lot more sturdy looking than that tiny tiny little t-handle.
then you can hook the socket up to a torque wrench so if you ever need to remove them again it wont be difficult because it'll be torqued to proper spec (with anti-seize, of course)
then you can hook the socket up to a torque wrench so if you ever need to remove them again it wont be difficult because it'll be torqued to proper spec (with anti-seize, of course)
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