- 152
What have you done to your car today?
- Thread starter Perfect Balance
- 6,673 comments
- 394,018 views
- 152
Haha, shaddup!
Only imperial in places, metric in others. Much love for General Motors in this case.
Only imperial in places, metric in others. Much love for General Motors in this case.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
- 152
Brings a nice ambience, don't you think?
Got the car going again today, manifold stud went straight in, first try. Tad annoying.
Idles as if it has a cam now. Misfires, backfires and carries on under load, has no go. Stalls occasionally. Not really keen to rev it too far incase of possible damage. Swapped out the coils/DFI module with no result, checked the resistance across the leads, all uniform and within tolerances. Plugs are near new NGK Platinum.
Checked all the sensors/vacuum hoses. The car was running fine before I pulled it apart, so logic states that all the sensors are OK.
I think one of the lifters had pumped up under hydraulic pressure, so I let the car sit for half an hour or so, that fixed it a little.
Thinking there could be a intake manifold leak somewhere, maybe a gasket isn't sealing properly. Hoping that the head gaskets have seated properly.
Guess I'll find out soon enough!
- 27,222
- United Kingdom
Since some unmentionable fool managed to steal and wreck my actual car, once again I post in this thread to say what I've done to my car, but what I've replaced it with for a few days:
Ford Transit Connect. Believe it or not, vans are actually cheaper to hire than cars. Would have cost me a tenner a day more to get a crappy little Corsa instead of the Ford...
Anyway, was nice enough to drive. Pretty much felt like a smaller version of the LWB Transit I borrowed a few months back, despite being based on an entirely different platform. It's something I'm noticing with Fords, which is that they all feel pretty similar to drive, be they massive van or tiny Ka. Obviously some are more nimble or quicker than others, but the controls always feel the same (i.e. always very good) and modern Fords definitely feel better built and more chunky than those of ten years ago.
Managed 45mpg over the 200-odd miles I had it for too, or 37mpg US. Not bad for something with the aerodynamics of a brick.
Ford Transit Connect. Believe it or not, vans are actually cheaper to hire than cars. Would have cost me a tenner a day more to get a crappy little Corsa instead of the Ford...
Anyway, was nice enough to drive. Pretty much felt like a smaller version of the LWB Transit I borrowed a few months back, despite being based on an entirely different platform. It's something I'm noticing with Fords, which is that they all feel pretty similar to drive, be they massive van or tiny Ka. Obviously some are more nimble or quicker than others, but the controls always feel the same (i.e. always very good) and modern Fords definitely feel better built and more chunky than those of ten years ago.
Managed 45mpg over the 200-odd miles I had it for too, or 37mpg US. Not bad for something with the aerodynamics of a brick.
- 27,222
- United Kingdom
Diesels or petrols? I've only ever driven diesel ones and engine-wise they're virtually indestructable as long as they're serviced well. I've heard a few faults with turbos on the very latest ones but other than that, nowt. The one my mate used to drive had 350,000 miles on it and it was still going strong!
Parts are dirt cheap too, like all Fords in the UK.
Parts are dirt cheap too, like all Fords in the UK.
- 9,473
- QLD, Down Under
- GTP_Paulie
- Paulie LDP
Both motors actually, but most of the time the diesel. Our Transits would be built in a different place, and Ford must make a killing on parts off their own dealerships, because we buy crap for imported models are rediculous prices. We had the same problem with F-Series in Australia, in USA they're rock solid models, ours however were built in Brazil and had frightening quality issues and super-priced parts.
- 27,222
- United Kingdom
Yeah, the place they're built often causes problems. It's why Mexico-built Volkswagens sold in the U.S. are often significantly less reliable than the ones we get in Europe built in Germany.
Ditto with Transits. UK ones are built in Southampton in the UK and have been since 1972, so they're probably pretty good at it by now, and some of them are built in Germany. The Connect I drove is built in either Turkey or Romania, but to be honest it felt pretty solid still.
Odd how the same vehicles can still be completely different!
Ditto with Transits. UK ones are built in Southampton in the UK and have been since 1972, so they're probably pretty good at it by now, and some of them are built in Germany. The Connect I drove is built in either Turkey or Romania, but to be honest it felt pretty solid still.
Odd how the same vehicles can still be completely different!
- 21,195
- United States
- nk4e
I tried this:
Fixing head light problems since mine won't go down no matter what...though I got to clean the contacts. I am figuring out how the inner combination (headlight ) switch is put to gether....
Fixing head light problems since mine won't go down no matter what...though I got to clean the contacts. I am figuring out how the inner combination (headlight ) switch is put to gether....
- 9,473
- QLD, Down Under
- GTP_Paulie
- Paulie LDP
Well I went and checked the parts catalogue at work and going by the VIN identification chart all Aussie Transits are built in Germany. I would have thought they'd be reliably built in Germany, maybe it's got to do with where the parts are made, rather than where the car is assembled, in this particular case.
- 9,473
- QLD, Down Under
- GTP_Paulie
- Paulie LDP
Well just remember a Colorado/Rodeo is probably just as good. 
The new Ranger unveiled at the Sydney Show is shaping up as a great vehicle though, although a new Colorado is also on its way for around the same time period.
The new Ranger unveiled at the Sydney Show is shaping up as a great vehicle though, although a new Colorado is also on its way for around the same time period.
- 2,833
- Colorado
- GTP_Cyborg
Chicanes are always fun!
Nothing done directly to the car recently, but I did just place an order for some OEM Honda parts needed for the H22 swap:
1993 Prelude Si VTEC:
- Balancer belt
- Water pump
- Thermostat gasket
- Lower radiator hose
- Oil filter (x2)
- Timing belt
- A/C compressor belt
1999 Civic Si:
- "DOHC VTEC" side quarter panel stickers (x2)
The box in my room is indeed filling up! Yeah the stickers may be seen as a bit ricy, and they'd give away what I'm running, but I like the idea of making the car look like it was equipped with an H from the factory. I'm wanting to replace the "LX" badge on the trunk with an "SiR" badge in mimic of newer H-powered Japanese/Euro Accords, too... don't hate!
That just leaves me with the following to purchase:
- OBD1 JDM H22A from HMotorsOnline (Jan/Feb, whenever the funds finally come together)
- USDM P13 ECU (in an effort to be legal)
- Engine lift + stand (right before ordering the engine)
- Explicit Speed Performance polyurethane engine mounts (coming next month; I would've ordered them today, but as the site at which I've been in contact with a guy from ESP is down, I just went for the above parts. The mounts will be ordered in November)
- Heater core-to-water pipe hose
- Oil (Mobil 1?) / Honda ATF / Coolant
- Valve cover gasket kit
Depending on how things work out, I might also get certain oil seals (front/rear mains, front balance shaft, billet cam plug, cam seals, tranny outputs) before installing the engine. HMO guarantees only about 35,000 miles on their engines, and with their solid reputation I'm not too worried about these right now.
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- 8,480
- P_Balance
Ordered some more parts for my 300zx brakes/5lug conversion/wheels. Getting closer.
- 1,035
Looked into getting my power fc tuned. With D-jetro, I need an air temp sensor on the intake side. Ideally on the intercooler pipe. I'm running the standard rubber IC plumbing. So I looked at the IC piping kits out there, and I'm restricted to cheap knock off stuff that won't fit right without playing around a lot, or $$$ Japanese stuff. Priced up custom piping, between $ 850-1000. Then I priced up intercooler kits, which included the piping. So effectively, for $250 more than just the piping would cost me, I'm getting one of these:
Trust type LS. Should have it in a month or so hopefully.
Trust type LS. Should have it in a month or so hopefully.
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