What have you done to your car today?

Really? This coming from experience, or what? I've heard nothing but good things about Tein.


Not personal experience, but from taking the word of people who do have the experience, we get Taiwanese Tein stuff that's not really that great. Plus, you're not racing that car...Get something quality that doesn't carry a $1000 nametag just so you can boast about it when you go park it at a meet.

Buddy Clubs are extemely popular for my car. So are some of Skunk2's offerings. Some people get the Tein Basics. Most of these people are still in it for show. The Buddy Clubs go the lowest as far as I know, so that's why they get used on my car a lot. Skunk2s supposedly blow often/easily. People who race are generally running some lowering spring with high performance shocks (usually Koni, if they're serious).
 
I'm assuming those are the true JDM ones and not the US-Market Taiwanese crap?

Not personal experience, but from taking the word of people who do have the experience, we get Taiwanese Tein stuff that's not really that great. Plus, you're not racing that car...Get something quality that doesn't carry a $1000 nametag just so you can boast about it when you go park it at a meet.

Buddy Clubs are extemely popular for my car. So are some of Skunk2's offerings. Some people get the Tein Basics. Most of these people are still in it for show. The Buddy Clubs go the lowest as far as I know, so that's why they get used on my car a lot. Skunk2s supposedly blow often/easily. People who race are generally running some lowering spring with high performance shocks (usually Koni, if they're serious).
The cheap Tein's are crappy, Tein Super Street, Tein Basic, Tein Flex, ect. Those are pretty much your average cheap coilover with better build quality, but they still use a twin tube damper design that isn't that great at doing it's job.

On the other hand, something like the N1 or the Monoflex is a good coilover. It's not about "JDM" or Taiwan spec, it's just that you get what you pay for. People always take the cheap Teins meant for the budget car enthusiast, toss them on a shock dyno and deem all Tein products crap and overpriced.

Also, Skunk 2 is horrible in my experience, except for their top of the line systems, which IMO, if you're willing to spend that much, you should be looking elsewhere.
 
We're talking about a 20 year old Accord here, anyway.

Koni Yellows and Ground Control sleeves. Cheap and way better than any adjustable coilover for your application, short of calling JRZ for custom ones.

And this is personal experience, but I wouldn't waste my money on suspension parts before making sure my tires and brakes are up to the task. Or that you actually know how to take a corner, and where your car's limits are. If you plan on being serious about handling, seat time is much much more important than simply bolting parts to your car.
 
Rebuilt the brake cylinders! My car was starting to pull right on low speed braking. I'll make a change to front discs after I get some new exhaust. Safety first? PAH!
 
I do actually plan on racing occasionally in the future. Most of my spirited driving is just in canyons, but I talked to a guy at the Denver Auto Show this past summer about joining the SCCA. There are a few road courses in Colorado for time attacks and track days, as well as autocross in various parts of the state. Suspension, chassis, brakes... all of that will be built upon.

The only trouble with the Accord is that it's not supported by the aftermarket nearly as much as the Civic/Integra. My eyes were on Koni's STR.Ts or "yellows" before the Teins. But for a 2" drop, what springs would you recommend for both track use and the daily drive? Eibach Sportlines? Are H&R Sports any good? Again, I was previously considering Tein S-Techs, but if all we get here is the cheap stuff...

Anyone have personal experience with Teins? Or any of these brands, for that matter? I don't like third-person reviews, especially when the products are coming from brands with all this pro racing experience. Why would they put their good name on the line for crap products?
 
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Personally I have Eibach Sportlines on my car, still stock shocks. Seems to do well enough for it for autocross.

I don't know if you've looked into the price of road racing/PDX's, but for most people those aren't too affordable to do often. Autocross is, though.

So go upgrade your brakes, maybe get some dedicated summer tires, and go autocross. Improve the driver, then improve the car.
 
I love Californian drivers... Stick to your lane next time, idiot.

I have no experience with fixing scuffs and scrapes. Help?

photok.jpg


@nk4e: Done
 
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I love Californian drivers... Stick to your lane next time, idiot.

I have no experience with fixing scuffs and scrapes. Help?

Sorry for the sideways picture

freestyle.mvla.net

You need to use "Copy Image URL" Otherwise, just upload it to image shack.us
 
New tires on the Si. Already put 30k on the car, so the stock Exalto PE2s (summer tire option) were starting to get old, and I really want to hit the slopes a lot this winter, so I needed all seasons. Ended up getting the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus in 215/45/17.
 
My H22 parts came today. Also finished the passenger side non-engine wire tuck (pics tomorrow). It's exciting knowing how little I have left to go for the swap! :)

Need: Fluids, mounts, heater hose
Want: Internal oil seals, BB6 auto cluster, USDM P13 ECU, new-style "Accord" & "SiR" badges

What I've got so far... basically one big tune-up, the Prelude/Accord engines are pretty plug-n-play
HswapParts.jpg
 
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Heh, so when you do begin to autocross you're going to be in Street Modified first thing. Make sure you do SMF (Street Modified FWD). :lol:
 
That was the plan, this car will remain a DD always! I could never stand owning a car that gets used only on occasion.

The new argument going on in my head is whether I want the 4th-gen Prelude's 4WS when I eventually get an Accord coupe. I've seen a video on YouTube that showed an Accord with it, it was pretty sweet. But that means keeping the power steering system, so it doesn't look like there's any room to mount a centrifugal type supercharger. I believe Jackson's roots kit is discontinued, so it'd be incredibly hard to find one. And I hate turbos, which means my only other option would be all motor. Not only does that limit my potential power if I am to keep the car comfortable for daily use (Bisi got the Accord's F22A up to 455 naturally aspirated ponies - that's from a 125-130hp 2.2L SOHC non-VTEC for those not into Honda - but I'm not going that far!), I'm way the hell up at 5,000+ feet! :ouch:

Ed. - damn, good thing I looked at yours and my post times. It looked funny as hell until I remembered it's daylight savings! Would have been an hour early to work!
 
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4WS is useless and just extra maintenance. Avoid.

Edit: How about a Kswap? If you're looking for boost down the road anyway. Not sure if you actually bought the H22 yet...


Edit2: Yeah the post times do get a little screwed up, don't they? :lol:
 
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Haven't yet bought the H (~Feb for that one)... don't want a K for unknown reasons. Besides, too much to deal with trying to make it legal and messing with OBD status. At least in the 4th-gen Accord forum I frequent, it's only been done once. A J-swap's been done elsewhere, but none of "us" have attempted it yet. One guy's got plans, but how often does that mean things are getting done? I figure if I ever get tired of the H, I want an F20B.
 
I've been away for a little while, anyway regarding the Teins, they are coming in from Japan. I was tossing up what I should do in regards to different suspension - I was looking at getting Koni Yellows with good springs, but a couple of things changed my mind - one is the rear shocks on the ST185 are part of a complete unit with the strut - to be able to change them you need to do cut and re-weld, and I didn't want to muck around organising that, the Teins will bolt straight in.

Also, I would like the flexibility of being able to change my ride height. I have been researching different coilovers for the car in my price range (I realise I'm not getting race spec suspension for my price, but hopefully good enough for some weekend fun), there are a lot of different brands, one being K-Sport, another is BC Racing (both Taiwanese). I was going to buy the BC Racing coilovers, but upon researching a lot of people complain about the valving, and that they leak. The Teins seem to offer a better build quality, and do have a better reputation. That, and the workshop handling my tuning are Tein agents and can arrange servicing if anything goes wrong with them. I thought that was worth spending the extra money.

Anyway, we'll see...
 
I hope all goes well for you Punknoodle. Vehicle modification is a frightful business, most of us know what it's like when things go wrong.
 
Later today I'll be relocating my sub to behind my seat unless I just can't stand the different feel, and ten I'm adding 2-4 more speakers
 
Opened the shed, looked at it, shut the shed.

Intake manifold gasket is leaky, would be a shame to take it all apart again without modifying something. :D
 
You have a feeling? What the hell's that supposed to mean?!

J/k, it's just down to my personal taste in power delivery, I've always been an all-motor/supercharger guy. Kinda like those stubborn old muscle car guys. Plus the BOV noise just annoys me to no end. ******' ricers.

Ed. - I was once out for a drive around town, a guy (must've been in his 30s) in a Subaru wagon next to me. He kept revving up just to let off the gas and make the noise. I laughed, then sped off, with my deep burble flowing out the Magnaflow.
 
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Intake manifold gasket is leaky, would be a shame to take it all apart again without modifying something. :D

You've gotta quit copying me! I'll be getting my inlet manifold gasket replaced next week. I've still got to get my front bumper replaced after hitting the kangaroo too. BTW, the SS front bumper lip extension, were they standard on the S sedans or did you put that on? Does it bolt straight on to the regular bumper bar or is it a whole new bumper bar?
 
Standard on the S pack. Its held on by strange looking little clips from memory.

You should change the gasket yourself!! You only have to take off about eleventy-billion things to do it.

Seriously, pretty easy. Just use some Permatex or something to seal the joins where the silicone valley gasket meets the inlet gasket. That's the mistake I made.
 
I'd rather let the mechanics who know exactly what they're doing do it than try it myself. Damn that sucks about it being standard on the sedan, it'd do wonders for the look of my Ute. I want it!:lol:
 
Definitely ditching the 4WS idea. Apparently it deactivates at 15mph, which kills any handling potential. "More maintenance" is a sad excuse not to do something, especially if it's a factory option. If you don't want to increase maintenance, stop tracking your car.

I want to see how far a streetable all-motor build will take me at my altitude. I'm told even my goal of a measly ~60bhp gain is very difficult. I called shenanigans, I'm gaining 75bhp with a simple stock-for-stock engine swap!

Plans: SRI, intake mani, Bisi Level 1 or 2 cams, full 2.25" exhaust, Hondata'd P28. Then I'll go from there if I'm still not getting close.
 
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Definitely ditching the 4WS idea. Apparently it deactivates at 15mph, which kills any handling potential. "More maintenance" is a sad excuse not to do something, especially if it's a factory option. If you don't want to increase maintenance, stop tracking your car.

I want to see how far a streetable all-motor build will take me at my altitude. I'm told even my goal of a measly ~60bhp gain is very difficult. I called shenanigans, I'm gaining 75bhp with a simple stock-for-stock engine swap!

Plans: SRI, intake mani, Bisi Level 1 or 2 cams, full 2.25" exhaust, Hondata'd P28. Then I'll go from there if I'm still not getting close.

60 whp gain with bolt-ons is a stretch. I'm on barely streetable cams, with a full exhaust (no cats), a custom hybrid intake and engine management, and I'm barely pushing +40 whp. For 60 whp over whatever engine you'll have in the car, you'll want a standalone (for the rev-limit control), higher compression internals and one hell of a tune... then again, I've seen some guys pull 45 whp out of a Honda with just breathing mods and a standalone... (touring car... no internals allowed... straight exhaust, though) with those level 2 cams, you might get to 55 whp, but you'll want high compression pistons to hit your target.
 
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