What is the real deal with Engine Overhaul and Chassis Rigidity?

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GT Motion

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GT-Motion
I am rather annoyed at these both showing up so quickly. I took the Audi R8 LMS out after restoring both chassis and engine fully, did one practice lap at Le Sarthe so I could take a photo for my profile. In the process I accidently overshot a turn and hit the wall while slowing, nothing super duper major.

Now my engine and chassis need a full price overhaul again its saying.

Is this for real? Does this even decrease performance? How does this stuff work? I am not going to spend 1m Cr everytime I drive the stupid car, even if I dont hit a wall the engine is still 500k and I dont recall doing anything malicious to the engine.
 
When are people going to learn that just because there is the option to do it doesn't mean it needs to be done!!
 
These options appears as soon as your engine and chassis condition goes below 100% apparently, so no, you dont need to get it done again. I have never done those two for my own cars. Only ones that I am sending out to other people.
 
Its part of the GT recession economy stagflation edition...pay you little because the market is stagnant, but because of inflation everything costs a lot.
 
jmcleod
When are people going to learn that just because there is the option to do it doesn't mean it needs to be done!!
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When are you going to learn how to post something productive rather than a smart ass comment?

I am asking because there is no indicator I can find that shows my performance decrease from not having these done, why do you think I am in the Q&A section, to get an answer. Go back and play your game get off the forums.
 
Eventually you will need to. Just ask anyone who has run multiple 24h endurance races. Your max engine power eventually goes down little by little. That's when you should do an Engine Overhaul. As for Chassis, people who have raced with a car for a long time can tell you that a car will eventually start to behave differently. That's when you do a Chassis Restore. These are all EVENTUAL after a good while of racing with a single car. So you can hold off on it until you notice things to change.
 
GT Motion
I am asking because there is no indicator I can find that shows my performance decrease from not having these done, why do you think I am in the Q&A section, to get an answer. Go back and play your game get off the forums.
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When you get an oil change, but your bHP doesn't quite go up to where it should be: Get an engine overhaul.

When you drive on a section of track that appears smooth but is riding rough anyways: Restore the chassis.

When you buy a car from the UCD: Do both.
 
I run my C6.R... Excuse me "Corvette ZR1 RM" Constantly at Indy. I had done 1000 miles, happened to glance at the power... I had lost nearly 150 Horses from when it was new, and that was with fresh oil. Sure enough, restored the engine, and it felt different because i had been driving it low on power for some time...

Also, trying to do the FGT championship i kept coming around 3rd, and i was lucky to get that. Drop another 1 Mil on restoration and i won.

It appears to change the power, especially with cars from the UCD... but does the chassis stiffening help reduce the chassis wear rate?
 
Honestly, I've only ever noticed it once. I have a classic stingray that I took it to the track before GT Auto, and it drove like it was on cobblestones. Four* quick fixes at GT Auto and it drove much more smoothly with about 75 more bHP.

*Wash, Oil, Engine, Chassis :)
 
Does anybody know if you can let it go for a long time, and then just do all that GT Auto stuff 1 time to get it all back to original, or would you have to do the stuff twice if you let it go too long?
 
DupontChevy24
Does anybody know if you can let it go for a long time, and then just do all that GT Auto stuff 1 time to get it all back to original, or would you have to do the stuff twice if you let it go too long?
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It's good as new every time you do it. 👍
 
I didnt have to overhaul my gt spec II test cars engine until 3800 miles, at 3750ish i started notiving the hp goin down by 1 every race
 
ViLLaiN
Honestly, I've only ever noticed it once. I have a classic stingray that I took it to the track before GT Auto, and it drove like it was on cobblestones. Four* quick fixes at GT Auto and it drove much more smoothly with about 75 more bHP.

*Wash, Oil, Engine, Chassis :)
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Don't waste your money on "4" fixes: if the car goes into the shop for engine re-build, the oil is changed and the car is washed; if you take it in for chassis, the car is washed also. If you are doing both engine and chassis that will kill 4 birds with two stones, so to speak.

Regarding the original question -- I'm doing the LeMans 24 hour race now (my 4th one); after the third race and an oil change my HP had gone from an original 1546 (I think) to 1432, so yes, when you get to the endurance races it will make a huge difference. It is expensive, but if you think about it, all these race cars are is an engine and a body, and to totally re-build them both is like making a new car.

I agree with the above also regarding the GT Challenge, and always if buying a used car. Make sure you do this before you drive the car, or your BHP will never reach it's peak. As a side note, always change the oil on a new car. That will also give you more BHP.

Now if I could just get B-spec Bob to stop rear-ending cars with the Vettal...
 
Every time you race both start to wear down due to usage, like a battery in your phone slowly decreasing as you keep recharging. It has nothing to do with a crash on the track as there is no permanent mechanical damage in the game, just wear. SO as you keep using a car it wears down, you only need to do the upgrades every 2000-4000 KM, but a Oil change every 1000 KM is best. to restore your engine power.
 
Kamdoon
Don't waste your money on "4" fixes: if the car goes into the shop for engine re-build, the oil is changed and the car is washed; if you take it in for chassis, the car is washed also. If you are doing both engine and chassis that will kill 4 birds with two stones, so to speak.

Regarding the original question -- I'm doing the LeMans 24 hour race now (my 4th one); after the third race and an oil change my HP had gone from an original 1546 (I think) to 1432, so yes, when you get to the endurance races it will make a huge difference. It is expensive, but if you think about it, all these race cars are is an engine and a body, and to totally re-build them both is like making a new car.

I agree with the above also regarding the GT Challenge, and always if buying a used car. Make sure you do this before you drive the car, or your BHP will never reach it's peak. As a side note, always change the oil on a new car. That will also give you more BHP.

Now if I could just get B-spec Bob to stop rear-ending cars with the Vettal...
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If it is true that your car will never reach it's peak power rating if you fail to rebuild as soon as you buy the car from the UCL, that's some serious BS. I've collected nearly 500 cars - most of which came from the UCL and I have not done this. I modded them & changed the oil but did not do the re-builds soooo I guess that each of these cars are now a bit weaker than they should be???👎:ouch:
 
TOMMY GUNS
If it is true that your car will never reach it's peak power rating if you fail to rebuild as soon as you buy the car from the UCL, that's some serious BS. I've collected nearly 500 cars - most of which came from the UCL and I have not done this. I modded them & changed the oil but did not do the re-builds soooo I guess that each of these cars are now a bit weaker than they should be???👎:ouch:
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I would excuse their weakness as long as I can mount Tommy Guns on them :D:tup:
 
Chassis restore makes a huge difference for ASpec. Best way to see a difference is to run the full Nurburgring before a restore if you have done a lot of miles ( F1GT is best to see change ) it will be bouncing all over the place and much harder to corner. Do a chassis restore and it will start handling like a dream again.

Engine overhaul is good after endurance races.
 
The GT Auto option only become available after your drop below 100% condition for the engine or chassis, the price does not vary with the condition. The price does vary by the car, I have found engine overhaul costs around 30% of the car's new price, and rigidity restore around 50% of the car's new price. Frankly, you're just better off buying the 20k CR chassis reinforcement from Tune Shop than ever worrying about repeating the rigidity restore option. The engine overhaul is only useful after significant drive distance has accumulated on the car, this will be noticeable because oil changes will no longer restore the full HP of the car.
 

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