X2014 Killed my G27

  • Thread starter kenjib
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kenjib

kenjib

8
GTP_ken_b
Yesterday was a sad day fellas...driving the X2014 with FFB setting of 7, I lose control of the car (surprise!) and as I'm trying to recover it seemed like I was no longer calibrated in the middle of the G27's range, instead the motor jumped gears. Thus, leaving me in the far left of the range, and when trying to steer left I'd hit the lock end of the range.

So I stop the game, log out, try to calibrate the wheel but the wheel is now unable to calibrate. I disabled the wheel from my Playseat to walk downstairs and plug it into my PC to update the firmware. After this, back upstairs to try it out...game starts and the wheel isn't able to calibrate...it tries but simply doesn't do it...can you say broken!!

I bought the wheel in 2009, and in early 2012 Logitech replaced the wheel only, for this same thing happened then. This time around Logitech wasn't willing to replace the wheel and pointed me to the vendor, Amazon. Who said, that be it that I bought the wheel in '09 and was replaced by Logitech in '12 I was SOL. They couldn't do a thing other than offer me $5 off my next purchase.

I've had to buy a new G27, which I'll just hang on to the shifter and the pedals as a back up..nothing wrong with the current pedals and shifter so no reason to swap it out...that and I have the GT EYE spring in the pedal assembly and don't feel like swapping the spring to the new pedals.

So you've all learned now that I'm the king of pain...has anyone heard of this ish happening? Any thoughts are appreciated!
 
I was afraid of this kind of thing since the first days of GT5 and so I avoided the X cars altogether but for a brief couple of laps. Sorry about your luck, but before I bought another Logitech product I'd seriously look at a Thrustmaster product for superior quality and because so far they are the only major wheel maker supported on the next gen consoles.
 
kenjib
Yesterday was a sad day fellas...driving the X2014 with FFB setting of 7, I lose control of the car (surprise!) and as I'm trying to recover it seemed like I was no longer calibrated in the middle of the G27's range, instead the motor jumped gears. Thus, leaving me in the far left of the range, and when trying to steer left I'd hit the lock end of the range.

So I stop the game, log out, try to calibrate the wheel but the wheel is now unable to calibrate. I disabled the wheel from my Playseat to walk downstairs and plug it into my PC to update the firmware. After this, back upstairs to try it out...game starts and the wheel isn't able to calibrate...it tries but simply doesn't do it...can you say broken!!

I bought the wheel in 2009, and in early 2012 Logitech replaced the wheel only, for this same thing happened then. This time around Logitech wasn't willing to replace the wheel and pointed me to the vendor, Amazon. Who said, that be it that I bought the wheel in '09 and was replaced by Logitech in '12 I was SOL. They couldn't do a thing other than offer me $5 off my next purchase.

I've had to buy a new G27, which I'll just hang on to the shifter and the pedals as a back up..nothing wrong with the current pedals and shifter so no reason to swap it out...that and I have the GT EYE spring in the pedal assembly and don't feel like swapping the spring to the new pedals.

So you've all learned now that I'm the king of pain...has anyone heard of this ish happening? Any thoughts are appreciated!
Click to expand...

I've had this happen a few times with my trusty ol' G25 from 2007 that I still use to this day; the thing must have seen 100,000 races or more. Fortunately, all I have to do to fix it is pause the game and plug it back in.

As far as getting a new wheel goes, I second @Johnnypenso's recommendation unless you see yourself playing PS3 exclusively for a while. In that case, I'd suggest getting another G27.
 
I just can't help but laugh at the title. I just saw this on the recent posts section and seemed so strange.

But seriously, that's some really bad luck. It's kinda stupid that they are giving you $5 off for a $200+ wheel (In Canada at least).
I would be interested if you took at look inside the wheel.
 
I'm sorry to hear this but thanks for the warning, from now on, i would be careful with the bull. That is really a hot damn red bull!

If the bull kills your wheel at 7, it would easily kill mine at 10 i guess. I usually have my FFB setting at 8-10 on DFGT and still find the setting weak. What are everyone's FFB setting?
 
Have you taken the wheel apart to try and center the wheel yourself? From what it sounds the gears jumped. Hopefully they didnt strip. If they didnt strip, the warrenty is done and the wheel dont work. I say why not.
 
Johnnypenso
I was afraid of this kind of thing since the first days of GT5 and so I avoided the X cars altogether but for a brief couple of laps. Sorry about your luck, but before I bought another Logitech product I'd seriously look at a Thrustmaster product for superior quality and because so far they are the only major wheel maker supported on the next gen consoles.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the comments everyone! Yeah I thought about getting the Thrustmaster, but I don't think I'll go to the next gen platform for at least another year...I don't have much time to play but when I do I'm still chipping away at GT6, so I ordered a new G27....hopefully within the next year the G27 will be supported on the PS4.

It was heart brake for I did want to continue playing....I had shut it off, replugged it in, cursed at it, updated firmware...I did all except open it up and get super dorkie with it! So considering the time I play and the years I had this G27, I expect that this new one will last me another 5 years...

Title was accurate, and humor is a hobby of mine....not that I'm good at it! lol
 
ryzno
Have you taken the wheel apart to try and center the wheel yourself? From what it sounds the gears jumped. Hopefully they didnt strip. If they didnt strip, the warrenty is done and the wheel dont work. I say why not.
Click to expand...

I may do that....or not, I'm not that interested in getting to dirty with it....thankfully I was able to spend some mo money!
 
I bought my last Logitech product about five years ago. Built to last the warranty period and not a day more. Thrustmaster!
 
I only use ffb at 3 to 4 power assist off feels good therekenjib
Yesterday was a sad day fellas...driving the X2014 with FFB setting of 7, I lose control of the car (surprise!) and as I'm trying to recover it seemed like I was no longer calibrated in the middle of the G27's range, instead the motor jumped gears. Thus, leaving me in the far left of the range, and when trying to steer left I'd hit the lock end of the range.

So I stop the game, log out, try to calibrate the wheel but the wheel is now unable to calibrate. I disabled the wheel from my Playseat to walk downstairs and plug it into my PC to update the firmware. After this, back upstairs to try it out...game starts and the wheel isn't able to calibrate...it tries but simply doesn't do it...can you say broken!!

I bought the wheel in 2009, and in early 2012 Logitech replaced the wheel only, for this same thing happened then. This time around Logitech wasn't willing to replace the wheel and pointed me to the vendor, Amazon. Who said, that be it that I bought the wheel in '09 and was replaced by Logitech in '12 I was SOL. They couldn't do a thing other than offer me $5 off my next purchase.

I've had to buy a new G27, which I'll just hang on to the shifter and the pedals as a back up..nothing wrong with the current pedals and shifter so no reason to swap it out...that and I have the GT EYE spring in the pedal assembly and don't feel like swapping the spring to the new pedals.

So you've all learned now that I'm the king of pain...has anyone heard of this ish happening? Any thoughts are appreciated!
Click to expand...
No but i
 
That's my general (bad) experience with Logitech, although I still have an original Direct Force GT wheel and pedals that still work. Never had a bad experience with a Thrustmaster product, been using them for 20 years. YMMV. But what's the original post about again? Oh, yeah.
 
Ledbetter
That's my general (bad) experience with Logitech, although I still have an original Direct Force GT wheel and pedals that still work. Never had a bad experience with a Thrustmaster product, been using them for 20 years. YMMV. But what's the original post about again? Oh, yeah.
Click to expand...
Right, that is your opinion and your experience. It is silly to lump all Logitech products together or even just the wheels, because you had poor experiences. It is overwhelmingly obvious that G27s are pretty reliable if you do the slightest of reading on here. Very reliable, actually.

Obviously, you haven't had a g27, considering you love thrust master, so what did you have from Logitech that broke just out of warranty and made you so dissatisfied with them? Just curious, because it starts to file down to keyboards, mice and joysticks. Knock on wood, I have never had a single Logitech product give me an issue. I try to buy all of my electronic accessories from them. Supposedly they have top notch customer support, too.
 
332i
Right, that is your opinion and your experience. It is silly to lump all Logitech products together or even just the wheels, because you had poor experiences. It is overwhelmingly obvious that G27s are pretty reliable if you do the slightest of reading on here. Very reliable, actually.
Click to expand...

Going Thrustmaster was certainly tempting....in the meantime though I did order another G27....for a few hundred over 5 years of use is certainly manageable! Regarding the Thrustmaster, do you know if it can be bolted down to a Playseat? Which is how I have my G27 set up. Ty much!
 
Ledbetter
That's my general (bad) experience with Logitech, although I still have an original Direct Force GT wheel and pedals that still work. Never had a bad experience with a Thrustmaster product, been using them for 20 years. YMMV. But what's the original post about again? Oh, yeah.
Click to expand...

do you know if it can be bolted down to a Playseat? Which is how I have my G27 set up. Ty much!
 
I
332i
Right, that is your opinion and your experience. It is silly to lump all Logitech products together or even just the wheels, because you had poor experiences. It is overwhelmingly obvious that G27s are pretty reliable if you do the slightest of reading on here. Very reliable, actually.

Obviously, you haven't had a g27, considering you love thrust master, so what did you have from Logitech that broke just out of warranty and made you so dissatisfied with them? Just curious, because it starts to file down to keyboards, mice and joysticks. Knock on wood, I have never had a single Logitech product give me an issue. I try to buy all of my electronic accessories from them. Supposedly they have top notch customer support, too.
Click to expand...

Iam very happy with logitech aswell
Ive got a almost 7 year old g25 and it has been beat real hard i got almost 300km in lfs s2 and thats just one game not to mention the gran turismos and even gt6 i play with the very same wheel and i use the highest ffb settings ... the leather is kind of beat up by now but nothing major and it still works
Also keyboards and other accesories ... the only problem i had was with a rather cheap logitech headset but i returned it and picked another one
 
The T500 bolts to my Wheelstand Pro, so I assume you could use the same two attachment points to bolt to a Playseat if there were correctly spaced holes. My opinion of Logitech is based on a number of joysticks and other controllers. The final straw for me was a wireless Logitech Dinovo Edge keyboard that never charged its internal battery correctly. It failed just out of warranty, I contacted Logitech and they basically told me to throw it away, the battery was not replaceable. This was a $150 keyboard. Enjoy your G27/G25s, but they will get no more of my money. As I say, YMMV and we're just talking personal preference, but again the original post and another thread referenced above discuss Logitech product failures.

Be well, race hard, enjoy your day.
 
Ledbetter
The T500 bolts to my Wheelstand Pro, so I assume you could use the same two attachment points to bolt to a Playseat if there were correctly spaced holes. My opinion of Logitech is based on a number of joysticks and other controllers. The final straw for me was a wireless Logitech Dinovo Edge keyboard that never charged its internal battery correctly. It failed just out of warranty, I contacted Logitech and they basically told me to throw it away, the battery was not replaceable. This was a $150 keyboard. Enjoy your G27/G25s, but they will get no more of my money. As I say, YMMV and we're just talking personal preference, but again the original post and another thread referenced above discuss Logitech product failures.

Be well, race hard, enjoy your day.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply! Yeah I'm not certain if the pedal assembly would bolt down like the G27 with use of a Playseat. The Thrustmaster peddles look like their own platform versus bolting the G27 pedal assembly to the pedal platform of the Playseat, I sure would be interested to seeing an image of an example. Any way, new G27 comes today, I'll just store the new pedals and shifter for the one I have works fine still....,lets see if I get the same mileage than the previous unit (5 yrs). Then again I think I should lower the FFB setting when trying the X cars for sure! or just stay away from them completely which is kinda lame.

Any way I appreciate the feedback and time!
 
Ken jib,

Here is a link to a YouTube video that shows how the T500 pedals attach to the Wheelstand.



I hope you find it useful.
 
Ledbetter
Ken jib,

Here is a link to a YouTube video that shows how the T500 pedals attach to the Wheelstand.



I hope you find it useful.
Click to expand...


Wow Led, you the man! Thx for the video, I also found an image of a T500 attached to a Playseat. It can definitely be done...at this point I'm not ready to drop $600 on a new T500 RS, so I'll stick with the G27 until it pisses me off to the point of spending more money! lol Thx a lot for your time!!
 
What you need is a new encoder wheel, done mine last night and wheel is much better than it ever was from new now.

The standard encoder wheel is made of cheap plastic and simply isn't up to the job, you can buy a new brass one which transforms the wheel imho.

Also someone in the assembly line isn't doing their job right as when i took mine apart they hadn't built it in the right order therefore a screw that should go through two boards was in-between the boards and only secured one part which mean their was a bit rattling about( common complaint of rattle that people assume is normal but it isn't its bad workmanship). My wheel is amazing now and has alot more feel on the edges of grip as their is no longer a wobbly bit in centre position caused by bad encoder and fact it wasn't put together right in the factory.
Interestingly the screws all round this bit that was assembled wrong were all lose but the build quality of the rest was excellent. If you want a link to get new part let me know, the company who make them are also excellent and will help you with anything your having trouble with when assembling. Make sure you take wheel apart first though to see which encoder you need as their are two different ones(32pin and 62pin if i remember correctly) i ordered wrong one but the company send me the right one straight away so it got to me quickly rather than waiting for the wrong part to come back to them first. Excellent mod and excellent company and its not often i can say that.
 
It very well may not be the encoder. There are a lot of things that could break. People always jump to the encoder. This is part of the reason I run half the lock of the normal 900* range. I barely move the wheel in comparison. It is so much easier to control a car on the edge with 450 lock, too. The less range of motion is my main attraction to it. Less countersteering and whipping of the wheel rim. Narrower corrections. Going up through Eau Rouge in any car requires no more than an inch to two of movement in each direction. Because of the way I am laid down in my rig, I don't fist myself in the nuts every time I try to turn the wheel 90* either.

The more right to left and wider ranger, the quicker your going to wear out and brake things. Anyone with a g27 running higher than FFB3 needs to stop immediately and read about clipping and stories like the OP's. The wheels clip at 1. Let alone 7 or 10 or whatever. All your doing is turning up the motors' resistances and clipping out force feedback. Like when you turn the volume up on a stereo and at a certain point, the drivers can no longer handle the depth or range of the signal and the sound breaks up. Exact same concept. When you go maxing out motors like the OP, that is when you start shimming splines, ruining gears and breaking encoder wheels and sensors. Not to mention it just burns the motors out. Don't forget that we are not using Logitech drivers. We are using drivers that PD has designed to run both our wheels AND fanatecs effectively. It is clear they had to amplify the feedback after one of the recent updates to give strong enough signals to the more powerful fanatec motors. Our motors are no where near as powerful. So don't go running FFB settings that aren't meant for our wheels. Just because you can use FFB7, doesn't mean you should or that it is wise to do so. I leave my g27 on FFB1 at 450 lock. It is stronger than when you're at 670 and 900 anyways. The range is crammed into a shorter spectrum. You still feel it all...it just feels like have a more realistic lock. Keep in mind that the 900* crazy lock angle ability is far from most road cars. Even my everyday car...it requires very little steering input. It may even be shorter than 450* lock to lock and it is a 2005 e46. I haven't driven a road car all summer until a few days ago and I forgot that even through hairpins and 90 degree bends...I don't turn it nearly as far as I turn the wheel on 450*.

270* on G27s is too aggressive. The FFB range is shortened up so much, that I stopped immediately on FFB1 and set the wheel back to 450*. It is just too much resistance and FFB signal crammed into far too short a swing. 450 and 670 are the easiest on the wheel internals.

Please read about clipping and running silly high FFB settings that aren't meant for our wheels. Wheels break anyways, so PD isn't going to come out and tell G users to not use the full FFB settings. People are already pissed about not having all of this and that. They're not going to admit that their G27 drivers are good at breaking wheels right now.
 
Mate i can garauntee your bmw has more than 450 lock to lock from factory. BMW M3 E92; 2,5 turns lock-to-lock; 900°; 12,5:1steering ratio; 36° steering lock
BMW M3 E46; 2,5 turns lock-to-lock; 900°; 15,4:1steering ratio; 29,22° steering lock
BMW M3 E46 CSL; 2,5 turns lock-to-lock; 900°; 14,5:1steering ratio; 31,03° steering lock
Lotus Elise; 2,4 turns lock-to-lock; 864°; 15,8:1 steeringratio; 27,34° steering lock
Corvette Z06; 2,5 turns lock-to-lock; 900°; 17,2:1steering ratio; 26,16° steering lock
Mazda Miata; 2,7 turns lock-to-lock; 972°; 15:1 steeringratio; 32,4° steering lock
Porsche GT3 RS (997); 2,6 turns lock-to-lock; 972°; 17,1:1 steering ratio (but variable from 17,1to 13,8); 27,37° steering lock
Ferrari F430 2005; 3 turns lock-to-lock; 1080°; 16:1steering ratio; 33,75° steering lock
Ferrari 458 Italia; 2 turns lock-to-lock; 720°; 11,9:1steering ratio; 30,25° steering lock
Ford GT; 2,6 turns lock-to-lock; 936°; 17:1 steering ratio; 27,53° steering lock
Nissan GTR; 2,4 turns lock-to-lock; 864°; 17:1 steeringratio; 28,61° steering lock
Lamborghini Gallardo LP550-2 Valentino Balboni ; 2,8 turns lock-to-lock; 1008°; 12:1 steering ratio; 42°steering lock
That all came from http://www.nogripracing.com/forum/showthread.php?t=199846&highlight=steering+ratio
 
@kenjib
Ive always run my G27's on 10 ffb on GT5 & GT6 & I play many other games which make GT's ffb feel like it has the strength of a day old kitten, also the G wheels from Logitech automatically lower ffb effects if the wheel gets too hot to preserve life of the motors as the wheels dont have built in cooling fans. Logitech have replaced my G27 3 times free of charge, I didnt buy my 1st wheel from them & they never told me to go back to the vendor as all G27's come with a 3yr warranty including the wheels you get from a warranty replacement so by not going through the vendor youre cutting out the middle man. It sounds to me like youre being lied to. register yourself & your wheel on Logitech's site & report it for a warranty replacement.
 
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@sik180sx

That was a poor choice of words. To do what I want with a 900* wheel setting in GT6, requires twice the steering input than as 450* and I dont have to put as much input into my e46 as I do to get the same turning angles as 450* in gt6.
The linear, 900 degree optical wheel drivers in gran turismo is not the same as a real car lololol. Steering racks have ratios. What happens within those 900 degrees is up to that ratio. So, even if my rack is roughly a 900* lock, the amount the wheels turn in that 900* is not the same. I may be able to turn mine 2.5 times or something near it, but as I said...how much the front wheels turn within those 900* is up to the rack. Idk how they do rack ratios in GT6, but it is screwed up. Racks have ratios, aside from lock. They don't in GT6. Thanks anyways, though. My car may have nearly a 900* range, but I don't have to turn it beyond 90-100* anywhere, mate.
 
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