Increasing power to the logitech G920

[eran0004]

Hello everyone. My G29 just started heavily jittering and smoke came off it while playing some AC, I unplugged its cord and let it cool off as soon as possible. After it cooled down, I plugged it back in. Nothing happened at first but when I pushed it a bit, it started doing the calibration but again extremely jittery/steppy. I unplugged and tried turning it; it was stiffer than I remember. I tried plugging it in again and smoke came off from the right vent immediately.

I don't know where to ask as I'm out of warranty and couldn't find any threads regarding to this.

Sounds like one of the motors is toast. Can you open the wheel and take a look at them?

Even though the warranty is out I would recommend taking the wheel to a repair shop rather than attempting to fix it yourself. In part because they would know what to do and in part because if your house catches fire because of an electrical equipment you’ve been tampering with I don’t imagine any insurance would cover that.

 

[Cotton82]

Man you guys are on some next level stuff.
I have a simple question. When adding a hand brake can u not just tap a wire comimg off the harnnes that comes from the wheel?. Any help is appreciated. I know every one goes to the board just trying to see if that's my only option

 

[Koffiato]

Sounds like one of the motors is toast. Can you open the wheel and take a look at them?

Even though the warranty is out I would recommend taking the wheel to a repair shop rather than attempting to fix it yourself. In part because they would know what to do and in part because if your house catches fire because of an electrical equipment you’ve been tampering with I don’t imagine any insurance would cover that.

I contacted Logitech and many mails later, they shipped a replacement that's still on the way. There's no place that can fix G29 over here in Turkey but one guy, I'm considering getting my defective unit fixed there. I'll take a look after the replacement arrives. I'd like some mods on that one.

 

[asterisk]

have you guys done anything to strengthen the plastic housing? I've just pulled down my g920 and all of the screw holes were cracked and have done a dodgey hot glue job so I can at least use it, but wondering if anyone has made a reinforced housing or anything to cope with the higher forces?

 

[bighouse]

Hi guys, i have a 10y old G27 with arc team mod, if it help, i have the PDF of instructions to manage instalation of the mod.

here some pic off my mod in 2011

this is from 2011.

yesterday i tried to do an "upgrade", i mean redo some wiring and burned the MCU 🤡
(was a sad monday an sic, trying to do something relaxing, at the end get mad haha)

here some pics

now im waiting for the new (used) mainboard 😢

 

[Emil Furman]

A

Hi guys, i have a 10y old G27 with arc team mod, if it help, i have the PDF of instructions to manage instalation of the mod.

here some pic off my mod in 2011
View attachment 1092651
View attachment 1092652

View attachment 1092653
View attachment 1092654View attachment 1092655
this is from 2011.

yesterday i tried to do an "upgrade", i mean redo some wiring and burned the MCU 🤡
(was a sad monday an sic, trying to do something relaxing, at the end get mad haha)

here some pics


View attachment 1092656View attachment 1092657View attachment 1092658

now im waiting for the new (used) mainboard 😢

ABSOLUTE LEGEND, now that i have some free time im gonna jump in and keep working on getting the wheel stronger and faster. Thanks to everyone keeping this post alive

 

[BND]

hi, i recently bought a modded g27 with some calibration issue but i swapped motors (rs 555 ph 22130),power supply(AC 24v 5a) and the PCB (g29's pcb was broken) to my g29 and now the calibration works fine, but my problem now is losing ffb and there is a link to my video to see the problem() from this you can hear this weird sound, when i put with ghub to 90% of "power", it does in all the degree angle and not only at the end, i checked everithing but i can't figure this out

Thanks in advance

 

[xXSuperDesXx]

I join in this discussion, a few days ago the left engine of my g920 burned out making smoke.
After this the steering wheel became hard and no longer calibrated.
Disassembling it and disconnecting the left motor, the right one works so I would like to replace it but I can't find an identical motor (RS-555SH-1) that also has the gear.
I tried to manually remove the gear but it gets damaged, does anyone know how to remove it and use it in a new engine?

Thanks in advance to who will answer me.

 

[perfectflash]

Maybe a bit late, but just heat them up with a lighter, or a small torch, and you can easily take them off.
I did that on my 100 years old G25 motors.

I bought some 555 24V 8000rpm motors in mine, but even one motor is soo fast, that could damage the plastic parts when calibrating, and theres a massive deadzone in the center, idk why... and when a soft lock is set, if I turn the wheel further, it loses the FFB/resistance, and making a weird sound...

So there are a lot of problems with the new motors, so I have to investigate further to solve the problems.

 

[protomor]

Hey all. Been a bit. I've been doing a youtube series on this. Someone used an M36N-2 motor set with success so I'm trying that. My 555 18150 is still kicking strong but I can't seem to find them anywhere on the internet anymore. So far, the M36N-2 fits the same as the 555 motors. Seems like a simple sweet spot in all honesty. No power brick or super cooling stuff necessary.

 

[perfectflash]

The M36N-5E is closer to the original motors, ~3400rpm at 24V, but I already ordered N-2s about 2-3 weeks ago.
I'm planning to revinding the original motors too, cause I dont want to throw them out.

 

[protomor]

Here's the video I put out if anyone's interested.

 

[xXSuperDesXx]

Maybe a bit late, but just heat them up with a lighter, or a small torch, and you can easily take them off.
I did that on my 100 years old G25 motors.

I bought some 555 24V 8000rpm motors in mine, but even one motor is soo fast, that could damage the plastic parts when calibrating, and theres a massive deadzone in the center, idk why... and when a soft lock is set, if I turn the wheel further, it loses the FFB/resistance, and making a weird sound...

So there are a lot of problems with the new motors, so I have to investigate further to solve the problems.

I thank you. I managed to take the gear off, ordered a rs555sh 24v 3200rpm from China and mounted it today.
First I noticed that Logitech's RS555SH is slightly slower, I guess less than 3000rpm. I assembled everything and it calibrated perfectly, only when it reached the center it "trembled" by 2 degrees to the right / left, otherwise it worked regularly.
After 5 minutes everything stopped working again. Now the central light flashes again slowly as if there is no power supply (I checked and the 24vs arrive)
At this point I think I will resell the steering wheel for working spare parts as I honestly don't know what to do anymore!

P.S. Embarrassing experience with Logitech support one of the worst, they don't even repair it for a fee, the only method is to buy a new one !!!

 

[perfectflash]

I thank you. I managed to take the gear off, ordered a rs555sh 24v 3200rpm from China and mounted it today.
First I noticed that Logitech's RS555SH is slightly slower, I guess less than 3000rpm. I assembled everything and it calibrated perfectly, only when it reached the center it "trembled" by 2 degrees to the right / left, otherwise it worked regularly.
After 5 minutes everything stopped working again. Now the central light flashes again slowly as if there is no power supply (I checked and the 24vs arrive)
At this point I think I will resell the steering wheel for working spare parts as I honestly don't know what to do anymore!

P.S. Embarrassing experience with Logitech support one of the worst, they don't even repair it for a fee, the only method is to buy a new one !!!

Seems like you just burnt the stock FET s. What motors did you buy exactly?

I have the same problem with the M36N-2 s as before... Seems like the PSU isnt enough for them (losing FFB resistance beyond soft lock) and the stonger 5A and 6A FET s are getting hot within seconds.
At this point my PSU is getting suspicious... or I dont know what the f!ck is going on...

 

[corRankin]

Hi all. I've gotten a lot of great info from this post, so I want to add my input, maybe it will help someone.

One of my motors burnt out - Logitech G29 - and I've ordered a couple from aliexpress - 24v 5000rpm and 1.6kg.cm torque - so similar to the stock but no idea how they will work yet. Will keep this post alive once they arrive. Will be adding fans and heatsinks as per this post, thanks everyone. The motors are very hard to find, so just have to go with something that's close to the originals. My goal isnt more FFB, its to get the wheel working again.

So, the stock motors worked fine in GT sport, but in F1 the wheel rattled - it was very noisey, and the wheel vibrated so bad you could not drive the car. It was literally unplayable. The fix for this is to secure the shaft of the motors so there is no lateral play - which means stopping the shaft of the motor from sliding forwards and backwards.

I put a pinion gear from an RC car motor onto the rear shaft. Push, or pull, the shaft of the motor so that the spiral drive gear moves towards the body of the motor, which slightly lengthens the rear shaft. Put a thin washer on the shaft, a bit of oil or lube of choice, then slide on the rc pinion gear and tighten the grub screw so that the motor shaft is now 'locked' by this rc gear - which is stopping it from moving forward again, hence no lateral play.

For the motor with the sensor on it, I cut the toothed gear from the rc pinion, leaving only a collar with the grub screw in it, making it thin enough to put on the rear shaft as wall as the encoder, which I just pulled off and i glued it back with some lightweight silicon sealant, so I can take it off again as needed. Which I had to as outlined below.

You need to make sure there is still a tiny bit of lateral play on the shaft, otherwise there will be too much friction on the shaft and thats not good.


Once both motors were adjusted like this, I then filed away some of the holes where the motors mounted, allowing both motors to move inwards a tiny bit, gripping the large gear, and removing the 'play' when you turn the steering wheel a little bit. File the large hole where the motor pokes through, and the screw holes. Takes a while, but only have to move the motors less than a millimeter inwards.

Now, one motor burned out and seized after 6 months, so I think the second adjustment - moving the motors inwards a bit towards the wheel gear - was too much - I had it so there was zero play. I'll do it again leaving a bit of play to help reduce friction.
I also didn't have any fans in the case, just heatsinks on the motors, so this time I will put fans on top of the heatsinks and a fan in the case too.

The results of this motor tuning mod made F1 not just playable, but really really good. The wheel behaved awesomly, with great feedback and no vibrations.

Thanks to everyone in this post for helping me get the right motors and start sorting things out so I can get it working again.

ps. These are the motors I ordered:

3.47US $ |Brand New Dc12v 24v Double Output Shaft 550 555 Dc Motor Large Power Round Shaft ~ - Dc Motor - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

 

[TheM20dude]

Hey guys after checking the comments and having interest myself in upgrading the motors I thought why not about brushless motors instead of regular brushed motors since they are more reliable and probably better in general?
I found these RC ones on Aliexpress and was surprised with the data but I'm actually afraid of them being too powerful. RPMs and current seem too high but I would like to know if there's a way to control those values.

The other thing that also bothers me if because they have such high RPMs the torque decreases a lot.

I know about cooling and stock MOSFETs not handling this power. I'm asking just about the motors themselves, what do you guys think?

 

[corRankin]

You need the shaft sticking out the back to attach the sensor.
How will you attach the 3 wires for control of the motor by the main board?
Torque is what controls the FFB power, so you need lots of torque, not high rmp.

Otherwise, yeah, Id love to upgrade to brushless, but I dont think it's feasable with those motors.

 

[TheM20dude]

You need the shaft sticking out the back to attach the sensor.

I've noticed that, and thought about maybe doing a longer shaft in a lathe or something if the motor was a viable mod

How will you attach the 3 wires for control of the motor by the main board?

I'm assuming the yellow wire is just for speed control?

Torque is what controls the FFB power, so you need lots of torque, not high rmp.

Otherwise, yeah, Id love to upgrade to brushless, but I dont think it's feasable with those motors.

Yeah that's why I was having doubts about this motor. I just got excited seeing a brushless motor that fits almost perfectly but this being a RC motor it's more for high RPMs and speed rather than torque and power

 

[corRankin]

Yeah that's why I was having doubts about this motor. I just got excited seeing a brushless motor that fits almost perfectly but this being a RC motor it's more for high RPMs and speed rather than torque and power

You could tinker with a cheap one, see what you learn. But I really think you need the high torque for the Force Feedback power. Speed is not so important. Rewinding the armatures of 24v RS550 motors with more winds is probably the best way to do it, but I've always had problems getting the end caps of them without damaging them.

By the way, I've found Ali Express sells G29 main boards, which might save my butt in repairing my wheel.

 

[TheM20dude]

You could tinker with a cheap one, see what you learn. But I really think you need the high torque for the Force Feedback power. Speed is not so important.

Agree

By the way, I've found Ali Express sells G29 main boards, which might save my butt in repairing my wheel.

I have seen those too. But they cost almost as much as a used wheel. I have a G25 myself and I bought a spare one with burnt motors for 30€


I might go for the RS555SH-2670 since it has a little more torque and see how it performs

 

[EmDs]

Hi, I actually was looking this forum for a couple months, and nobody had talked about how would we make the soldering of new MOSFETs in the place of the older ones. Anyone knows the scheme of "wiring" of the mosfets in the logitech board?

Mine is a G27 actually

 

[EmDs]

My first idea was to use a H-Bridge to power up the new motors that I bought, but without needing change the original board. I actually have a BTS7960, and was wondering thats any way to do it work... It just need a PWM signal...

 

[corRankin]

I might go for the RS555SH-2670 since it has a little more torque and see how it performs

If you find these for sale can you let me know? I cant find them anywhere. In fact, any motors with better performance are really hard to source.

Hi, I actually was looking this forum for a couple months, and nobody had talked about how would we make the soldering of new MOSFETs in the place of the older ones. Anyone knows the scheme of "wiring" of the mosfets in the logitech board?

Mine is a G27 actually

Im no electrician, but I'd assume you'd put the new on in with the same orientation as the old one - It's an 8 pin square chip, so only 2 ways to insert it, get the writing on the chip the same way as the original and should be fine. Nice rig setup btw.

Your idea with the H-bridge, man, just try it, let us know if it works.

 

[TheM20dude]

If you find these for sale can you let me know? I cant find them anywhere. In fact, any motors with better performance are really hard to source.

Yeah no problem. So far I can only find them on Alibaba but there's a minimum 50 piece order and I don't need many spares. But you're absolutely right, I've been seaching better motors for the past week and nothing viable comes foward. Either it has a lot of rpms but low torque, or the opposite. I think the best shot is just get something similar and mess more with the power brick to control the motor behaviour.

Im no electrician, but I'd assume you'd put the new on in with the same orientation as the old one - It's an 8 pin square chip, so only 2 ways to insert it, get the writing on the chip the same way as the original and should be fine. Nice rig setup btw.

Your idea with the H-bridge, man, just try it, let us know if it works.

I'd like to try 32V or 36V but also increase the amperage to 4A or 5A to give it some nice torque. I found 2 (here and here) H-Bridges that supposedly handle the voltage and amperage but it's obviously a shot in the dark and can permanently damage the board. I'm concerned increasing above 2A because there's a small green 2A fuse on the board and the bigger amps might fry it.


I'm trying to follow the ARC team mod and use these H-Bridges since their booster was a component made in-house and they don't fabricate them anymore.

 

[corRankin]

I've been seaching better motors for the past week and nothing viable comes foward.

This is what I found, similar torque to the stock with more rpm.

3.42US $ |Brand New Dc12v 24v Double Output Shaft 550 555 Dc Motor Large Power Round Shaft ~ - Dc Motor - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

 

[corRankin]

I've been seaching better motors for the past week and nothing viable comes foward.

This is what I found, similar torque to the stock with more rpm.

3.42US $ |Brand New Dc12v 24v Double Output Shaft 550 555 Dc Motor Large Power Round Shaft ~ - Dc Motor - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

 

[omareg123]

guys any updates with the fets. i need to know what fets I need for the RS555SH-2670.

 

[Knowpistons]

I've given up on modding the Logitech wheels, Logitech has essentially sold the same wheel for over 15 years with no hardware improvements, meanwhile steadily increasing price, and introducing buggy software. Almost every industry has moved from a brushed motors to a brushless, but Logitech thinks, "If it ain't broke, don't spend money on R&D". They very well may be the last purchaser for these motors. I will be listing my complete rig for sale in the next couple weeks and will be upgrading and not looking back to Logitech.

• Don't go over 31v power to the main board or the wheel will not calibrate, I have an adjustable PSU and have done extensive testing.
• You cannot use a brushless motor, the wiring and control is COMPLETELY different
• The FET's needed were listed in an old post by me on page 1 but unless you can find a higher power motor, upgrading them is useless

 

[omareg123]

I've given up on modding the Logitech wheels, Logitech has essentially sold the same wheel for over 15 years with no hardware improvements, meanwhile steadily increasing price, and introducing buggy software. Almost every industry has moved from a brushed motors to a brushless, but Logitech thinks, "If it ain't broke, don't spend money on R&D". They very well may be the last purchaser for these motors. I will be listing my complete rig for sale in the next couple weeks and will be upgrading and not looking back to Logitech.

• Don't go over 31v power to the main board or the wheel will not calibrate, I have an adjustable PSU and have done extensive testing.
• You cannot use a brushless motor, the wiring and control is COMPLETELY different
• The FET's needed were listed in an old post by me on page 1 but unless you can find a higher power motor, upgrading them is useless

These where the motors suggested in the past I like the 2670 and the 3250 all I need to know is what fets go with these and how to fabricate a wheel sensor bracket and if the will be any other wiring on the board. I know I need another psu a d cooling for the whole thing but the real problem for me is knowing where to get the motors and first knowing the fets and where to get them.

 

[corRankin]

View attachment 1151291
These where the motors suggested in the past I like the 2670 and the 3250 all I need to know is what fets go with these and how to fabricate a wheel sensor bracket and if the will be any other wiring on the board. I know I need another psu a d cooling for the whole thing but the real problem for me is knowing where to get the motors and first knowing the fets and where to get them.

Upgraded motors like these are almost impossible to find, I went with something similar to the originals. The FETs, try aliexpress, hard to locate though.