Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

Does it emulate the G29 or the real Pro Wheel?

It's fully working G Pro. Trueforce is fully supported and have not had any issues with the drivehub since I started using it back in late January of this year.

You will need a hori controller (others might work but I am not sure) for the security chip... Or you can use the USB dongle that Collective Mind released for a separate product, I haven't tried it but have been told it works. I'm using a Hori FPS Pad Plus controller, bought it in Japan for about ¥4,000 (about $30 USD).


Here is a link to the USB dongle:

 
the wheel's compatibility is this... playstation/pc and xbox/pc. There really isn't just a PC version as I understand it. Even the PC ONLY ones you see available online show that it has xbox buttons on the wheel.
I have the PC only version of the kit – the one that comes with a wheel, not just the DD11 base with a separate wheel purchase. Where the Xbox button would be is just a "G1" button and the letter buttons are gray instead of colored.

So it looks like there are 4 ways to piece together a kit – PS, XB, PC only, DD11 base + PC wheel – and all of them are PC compatible.
 
Or you can use the USB dongle that Collective Mind released for a separate product, I haven't tried it but have been told it works.

Here is a link to the USB dongle:

I totally would get this dongle to get rid of the super long wire that's attached to the Hori Mini and clean up my setup, but it's sold out. Wish I knew this worked with DriveHub when they still had these in stock.
 
I’ve had an issue pop up twice now in the past several days where while playing GT7, all of a sudden my wheel and pedals would lose all input. The car would remain at full throttle, spinning in circle as I miss my corner and slam into the barrier, and remain at full throttle while I try and turn on a controller to fix the issue.

The pedals, wheel and all buttons on the wheel including the PS button no longer respond. I do not receive a ‘controller disconnected’ message, the wheel remains powered on.

I use drive hub to unlock full NM and was using this feature at the time.

Since then, I have updated drivehub firmware to beta 2.1.2 beta 28 this morning, but am yet to test it.

I’m not saying drivehub is to blame, it was just a factor when it happened.

Anyone else experience this.

PS5 is fully updated.

GT7 1.46

FIRMWARE VERSION PRO
PRO: 133.5.100
PRO PLAYSTATION RIM: 7.0.21
PRO RACING PEDALS: 6.0.27
PRO WHEEL DRIVE: 13.3.55
Firmware is up to date

Collective Minds Drive Hub
Firmware: 2.1.2-beta.20 (at time of incident) beta 28 now
 
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I’ve had an issue pop up twice now in the past several days where while playing GT7, all of a sudden my wheel and pedals would lose all input. The car would remain at full throttle, spinning in circle as I miss my corner and slam into the barrier, and remain at full throttle while I try and turn on a controller to fix the issue.

The pedals, wheel and all buttons on the wheel including the PS button no longer respond. I do not receive a ‘controller disconnected’ message, the wheel remains powered on.

I use drive hub to unlock full NM and was using this feature at the time.

Since then, I have updated drivehub firmware to beta 2.1.2 beta 28 this morning, but am yet to test it.

I’m not saying drivehub is to blame, it was just a factor when it happened.

Anyone else experience this.

PS5 is fully updated.

GT7 1.46

FIRMWARE VERSION PRO
PRO: 133.5.100
PRO PLAYSTATION RIM: 7.0.21
PRO RACING PEDALS: 6.0.27
PRO WHEEL DRIVE: 13.3.55
Firmware is up to date

Collective Minds Drive Hub
Firmware: 2.1.2-beta.20 (at time of incident) beta 28 now
Just a thought, have you tried reseating your steering wheel to make sure it's snug into the QR? I remember the Fanatec CSL DD had that same/similar issue if the wheel was tugged back just a little. Granted, the G Pro is a much better QR than the Fanatec QR1, but it's worth a shot.
 
Just a thought, have you tried reseating your steering wheel to make sure it's snug into the QR? I remember the Fanatec CSL DD had that same/similar issue if the wheel was tugged back just a little. Granted, the G Pro is a much better QR than the Fanatec QR1, but it's worth a shot.
I didn’t get a chance to play last night. I’ll give that a try though.
 
Yes and no. For the Logitech shifter you do need the adapter. Other shifters will work with a 3rd party adapter. I use Drivehub which allows me to use other shifters, I have a Frex Hshift+, works flawlessly on console with this wheel.
So with DH i get more torque (on gt7) and i can use any shifter i want. Interesting, thanks you guys have cleared all of my questions.
 
yeah, I think so.
Nope!
I have both and the Fanatec V3 are definitely better, much stronger construction and more versatile when it comes to mounting options.
Performance wise they are very similar though.
One thing I do prefer about the Logitech pedals are the pedal plates themselves, which is why I mounted mine to my V3 pedals. :)

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Can confirm. Well i use the old shifter with the adaptor and g pro wheel and pedals as a handbrake in wrc on ps5. Its designed to work with the wheel, pedals, shifter or any combination there of.
Thanks! When I need to upgrade I shall remember this
 
Nope!
I have both and the Fanatec V3 are definitely better, much stronger construction and more versatile when it comes to mounting options.
Performance wise they are very similar though.
One thing I do prefer about the Logitech pedals are the pedal plates themselves, which is why I mounted mine to my V3 pedals. :)
That looks pretty good, kinda like G Pro Pedals+. The G Pro Pedals mounting options are pretty versatile, but I just wish they had more adjustments like the V3. I have mine mounted inverted, but I had to make my own spacers to lift the faces so that my foot isn't under the gas pedal when heel-toeing. For sure miles better than G29 pedals, but the deeper gas pedal was one thing the original had right.

g_pro_pedals_right.jpg
g_pro_pedals_center.jpg
g_pro_pedals_left.jpg

Or like others say, drivehub and you can use any shifter you want.
Definitely a benefit of the DriveHub, but there are limitations – the hardware needs to be supported in the DH firmware. Chances are higher of working on console if it the brand works with console in one way or another, but there are exceptions (you can try to get your hardware supported if you don't mind helping out the dev). I'm currently using the TH8A shifter and TSS handbrake with the G Pro wheel with no issues.

Been using the DH for years even when I had PS compatible gear because it simplifies my setup when switching between PC and console – I have a USB switch that goes in between (in combination with a USB hub) so I don't have to keep transferring/unplugging all the things. No perceptible lag whatsoever.
 
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So this is going to sound wierd. Tonight on gt7 I was screwing around in daily race A for a bit. Switched over to race C around 10:30 and woah my wheel felt super heavy. Checked the live torque and I was getting 10+nm!? I've since turned the wheel on and off and checked all the settings. Everything is normal settings and I swear I'm getting the full torque from the wheel as opposed to the capped 6-7 that gran turismo 7 had imposed on the pro wheel.
 
So this is going to sound wierd. Tonight on gt7 I was screwing around in daily race A for a bit. Switched over to race C around 10:30 and woah my wheel felt super heavy. Checked the live torque and I was getting 10+nm!? I've since turned the wheel on and off and checked all the settings. Everything is normal settings and I swear I'm getting the full torque from the wheel as opposed to the capped 6-7 that gran turismo 7 had imposed on the pro wheel.
Check and see if you are in G923 mode. I don't think PD has removed the cap from our wheel.
 
Same thing happened to me on Wednesday night.

Fired up the game and suddenly I had the full 11nm.

I immediately adjusted torque in the pause menu but it had no effect, so I rebooted the wheelbase and all was "normal" again, as in the usual nerfed new-normal.

Has never happened before or since. Weird, especially seeing as someone else has reported it here too. There was a PS5 update recently and of course the GT7 one last week, so I suspect it must've had something to do with one of those.
 
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So I had about 30 minutes of this full torque experience and then everything went back to normal. I hadn't done anything other than jump into different single-player and sport races. Very strange but those 30 minutes were awesome. Once I adjusted I was beating my QT on daily race B and C. The higher torque gave me better feel in the corners and everything felt so much better (after adjusting to wtf was going on, at first it was unsettling and I sucked)
 
I’ve had an issue pop up twice now in the past several days where while playing GT7, all of a sudden my wheel and pedals would lose all input. The car would remain at full throttle, spinning in circle as I miss my corner and slam into the barrier, and remain at full throttle while I try and turn on a controller to fix the issue.

The pedals, wheel and all buttons on the wheel including the PS button no longer respond. I do not receive a ‘controller disconnected’ message, the wheel remains powered on.

I use drive hub to unlock full NM and was using this feature at the time.

Since then, I have updated drivehub firmware to beta 2.1.2 beta 28 this morning, but am yet to test it.

I’m not saying drivehub is to blame, it was just a factor when it happened.

Anyone else experience this.

PS5 is fully updated.

GT7 1.46

FIRMWARE VERSION PRO
PRO: 133.5.100
PRO PLAYSTATION RIM: 7.0.21
PRO RACING PEDALS: 6.0.27
PRO WHEEL DRIVE: 13.3.55
Firmware is up to date

Collective Minds Drive Hub
Firmware: 2.1.2-beta.20 (at time of incident) beta 28 now
Since using the drivehub I've had something similar a couple of times, brake pedal / throttle just go, steering still works but seems to take a pause and then carry on and it's fine.

As you say, no controller message and in the replay the pedal trace just stays low, it's really odd.

Has only happened a few times though.
 
Since using the drivehub I've had something similar a couple of times, brake pedal / throttle just go, steering still works but seems to take a pause and then carry on and it's fine.

As you say, no controller message and in the replay the pedal trace just stays low, it's really odd.

Has only happened a few times though.
It hasn’t happened again since updating my drivehub to beta 28. But I also haven’t played much since then, maybe a few hours.
 
It hasn’t happened again since updating my drivehub to beta 28. But I also haven’t played much since then, maybe a few hours.
I've only played a few hours with beta 28 but also haven't noticed any disconnects. I had a few disconnect issues with beta 20... But my pedals still worked while the wheel would disconnect.
 
Haven't experienced any disconnects myself, but I'm still on the same beta from the last time I replied in the other thread. So if it is one of the firmwares, it's between that date and beta 28.
 
Cool to see a lot of people using the g pro. I was linked this thread by WombleLeader on YouTube. I’m considering purchasing this wheel and doing a review on my channel vs the DD1. How does everyone like it overall for GT7. That’s the only title im focused on.
I've got one and play GT7 exclusively, and in VR. It oozes quality, and Trueforce is really the feature that makes this wheel special. I'd recommend a TF 'volume' of between 15-30%, as 100% is too much.

Watch Boosted Media's two video reviews. You won't be disappointed. Oh, the DriveHub adapter unleashes the full 11nm. Worth every cent.
 
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I've got one and play GT7 exclusively, and in VR. It oozes quality, and Trueforce is really the feature that makes this wheel special. I'd recommend a TF 'volume' of between 15-30%, as 100% is too much.

Watch Boosted Media's two video reviews. You won't be disappointed. Oh, the DriveHub adapter unleashes the full 11nm. Worth every cent.
Interested in your Trueforce settings. I’ve had my wheel for a couple of days (playing GT7 in vr also) and my settings are 60 vibration in game and 100 on the wheel and I feel like I want more. I am on a alloy rig with transducers so that will dilute Trueforce.

What in game vibration setting do you use?

Thanks
 
Interested in your Trueforce settings. I’ve had my wheel for a couple of days (playing GT7 in vr also) and my settings are 60 vibration in game and 100 on the wheel and I feel like I want more. I am on a alloy rig with transducers so that will dilute Trueforce.

What in game vibration setting do you use?

Thanks
I use 125 in the controller vibration and 100% on the wheel. I've heard others say that there can be issues if you go over 125 vibration in game (GT7) but never felt anything to bad when I had it set to 150.

I like a strong wheel, so I use a drivehub to get past the 7-8nm cap and use it at the full 11nm. I also have the dampener set to around 50-60 and FFB filter set to 1 (found that setting it to 1 reduces oscillation for me).
 
I use 125 in the controller vibration and 100% on the wheel. I've heard others say that there can be issues if you go over 125 vibration in game (GT7) but never felt anything to bad when I had it set to 150.

I like a strong wheel, so I use a drivehub to get past the 7-8nm cap and use it at the full 11nm. I also have the dampener set to around 50-60 and FFB filter set to 1 (found that setting it to 1 reduces oscillation for me).
That’s great thank you, I’ll give that a try.
 

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