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This is a [no longer] small guide to help understanding which power and torque figures are correct, according to the units for Power and for Torque selected in the 'Options' menu.
Units available for Power: PS, HP, BHP, CH, kW, CV, PF
Units available for Torque: kgf.m, ft.lb, NM
Power
There are at least 6 places (that I know of) where the Power of a vehicle can be checked:
1) Garage Screen (where up to 10 vehicles of the ones currently possessed are listed)
2) Car Screen (screen that appears after clicking on one particular vehicle)
3) Sell Screen (screen that appears after clicking on the Sell icon)
4) Settings Screen (screen that appears after clicking on the Settings icon, before a race) - (Power is shown in the small Power and Torque Graph, top right of the screen)
5) Settings Screen (screen that appears after clicking on the Settings icon, before a race) - (Power is shown in the big Power and Torque Graph, which can be brought up by pressing Start)
6) Replay (at the beginning of it, Power is listed along with choice of tires, among other things)
Example (note I set HP as my units for Power):
MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89, Stage 4 Turbo:
1) 1223HP
2) 1206HP
3) 1206HP
4) 1223HP
5) 1206HP
6) 1148HP
I was discussing this with Small_Fryz and he suggested for me to check if maybe the digits shown in the Garage Screen and in the small Power and Torque Graph (see 1) and 4)) are shown in the amount they would be in PS, regardless of the units chosen in the Options. So I changed the units to PS, and sure enough, the value of 1) and 4) did not change. Thanks to Small_Fryz for pointing this out.
This is the outcome of choosing PS for the units of Power:
1) 1223PS
2) 1223PS
3) 1223PS
4) 1223PS
5) 1223PS
6) 1164PS
So, as we can see, all the figures now match (except for the one in the Replay), and are all in the same units. Therefore Small_Fryz was correct, the digits shown in the garage screen always refer to PS, regardless of the choice of units made in the Options. Same for the digits shown in the small Graph, within the Settings screen.
Therefore, the only places where YOUR choice of units (provided that your choice is different than PS) for Power is reflected are these:
1) Car Screen (screen that appears after clicking on one particular vehicle)
2) Sell Screen (screen that appears after clicking on the Sell icon)
3) Settings Screen (screen that appears after clicking on the Settings icon, before a race) - (Power is shown in the big Power and Torque Graph, which can be brought up by pressing Start)
4) Replay (at the beginning of it, Power is listed along with choice of tires, among other things)
Everything else is always in PS, and the digits will not change, even if other types of units are selected for Power, in the Options (oddly enough, though, the different units will be appended to the number, even if the number is always the same - the one it would be if PS was chosen).
Changing the units to BHP, CH (1CH = 1PS), kW, CV (1CV = 1PS), PF (1PF = 1PS) does not induce any change into the number shown in the Garage Screen or in the small Power and Torque Graph. Everything else changes accordingly, though.
Moving onto...
Torque
There are at least 3 places (that I know of) where the Torque of a vehicle can be checked:
1) Car Screen (screen that appears after clicking on one particular vehicle)
2) Sell Screen (screen that appears after clicking on the Sell icon)
3) Settings Screen (screen that appears after clicking on the Settings icon, before a race) - (Torque is shown in the big Power and Torque Graph, which can be brought up by pressing Start)
Example (note I set kgf.m as my units for Torque):
MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89, Stage 4 Turbo:
1) 112.95 kgf.m
2) 112.95 kgf.m
3) 113 kgf.m (note this one is rounded up to show an integer number - no decimal places)
This is the outcome of choosing ft.lb for the units of Torque:
1) 816.96 ft.lb
2) 816.96 ft.lb
3) 817 ft.lb (note this one is rounded up to show an integer number - no decimal places)
And, lastly, this is the outcome of choosing NM for the units of Torque:
1) 1106.91 NM
2) 1106.91 NM
3) 1107 NM (note this one is rounded up to show an integer number - no decimal places)
As it can be noted, all the digits are reflected correctly (so were the ones for Power, in those particular locations).
Therefore, it is to be concluded that the digits in the Garage Screen and in the small Power and Torque Graph (visible within the Settings Screen) do not mirror the user's choice for the Power units, while the digits shown in the Car Screen, Sell Screen and the big Power and Torque Graph (visible within the Setting Screen, after pressing Start) match correctly the unit selection made into Options (for both Power and Torque).
Here are some useful conversion factors:
1 HP = 0.745 kW
1 kgf.m = 7.23 ft.lb
1 kgf.m = 9.81 NM
1 ft.lb = 1.36 NM
UPDATE - The following information was added April 10, 2005
I have just spent the past couple of days doing some more testings to figure out why the power figure shown on the Replay screen does not agree with the other "accepted" figures (Car Screen, Sell Screen, and big Power and Torque Graph).
I started with the assumption, originally suggested by blurred (see post #3, below), that the power shown on the Replay screen would be the power the vehicle would have without performing an oil change (when bought anew).
Therefore, I bought a new Dodge SRT4 '03 and tested it*.
1) 0 miles, without oil change:
- Shown on Car Screen: 230HP
- Shown on Replay Screen: 229HP
I immediately thought: "Not good. If I perform an oil change, the car will end up having even more horsepower. 229HP must refer to something else."
I did test it with an oil change, nonetheless:
2) 0 miles, with oil change:
- Shown on Car Screen: 241HP
- Shown on Replay Screen: 229HP
Well, good. At least the power figure on the Replay screen stays constant (for a given vehicle configuration).
Would the power shown on the Replay screen be the power the vehicle would have with "really" dirty oil? (it is known, from GT3, that the modifier for dirty oil for a vehicle bought at a dealer is lower [in magnitude] than the modifier for dirty oil coming from high mileage).
Well, only one way to check. I went to the Used Car Showroom II and picked me up a Honda S2000 Type V '01, with 24,266.4 miles.
Here are the results from testing the Honda S2000 Type V '01:
1) 24,266.4 miles, dirty oil (oil light was on):
- Shown on Car Screen: 220HP
- Shown on Replay Screen: 243HP
Ok, we are good. An oil change should hopefully bump it back up.
And, sure enough...
2) 24,266.4 miles, clean oil:
- Shown on Car Screen: 243HP
- Shown on Replay Screen: 243HP
Ok, then the oil light needs to be on, in order for the car to achieve its minimum power? Not likely. The car had 24,266.4 miles. That includes permanent power drop for the engine (same way it happens in GT3).
Only one other way to test this: take a new (0 miles) MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89, slap a Stage 4 Turbo, take it to the Test Course (in the "Driving Park" section), and let the B-spec driver drive the hell out of it. How long could it take? In GT3 the permanent power drop happened within the first few hundred miles anyway. I couldn't have been further from the truth
It took 650 miles just for the permanent power drop process to start. I kept driving it in B-spec for about 300 miles at a time, quitting, changing the oil, checking the power value and the mileage, and plotting the results with Excel. It seemed a pretty linear relationship, so I fitted a line and found analytically how many miles it would take for the power to drop to 1148HP (the value listed on the Replay screen, for the MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89 fitted with a Stage 4 Turbo). The value turned out to be ~8100 miles. I let B-spec run it up to that point, and then checked the amount of horses that were still alive. 1150. Close, but not close enough. I still run it in B-spec, checking every 50 miles or so. The vehicle finally got to 1149 at ~8400 miles. I took over, and run 25 mile legs at a time. Finally, the car reached 1148 at 8495 miles. The value shown on the small Power and Torque Graph was 1165PS, though. I thought, sure the mileage value has to be a "whole" number. So, I run the car one mile at a time, and finally, at 8500 miles the value shown on the small Power and Torque Graph dropped to 1164PS. That's the minimum value of power this vehicle will reach, with a Stage 4 turbo, due only to engine wear [all the numbers were checked with clean oil].
I let the vehicle run in B-spec for another couple hundred miles, just to make sure the power would not drop any further (due to engine wear), and sure enough, 1164PS - 1148HP was the lowest value.
Therefore, the theory is proven.
The power value shown on the Replay screen is the amount of power the vehicle would have once the engine has experienced the maximum power drop due to mileage (which happens to occur at 8500 miles, while the power drop process itself starts at 650 miles), with clean oil.
Summary:
MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89, Stage 4 Turbo:
1) 0 miles, with oil change
- Shown on Car screen: 1206HP
- Shown on Replay screen: 1148HP
2) 8500 miles, with oil change
- Shown on Car screen: 1148HP
- Shown on Replay screen: 1148HP
I also did two more tests, to see if this would apply to a stock MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89.
MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89, stock:
1) 0 miles, with oil change
- Shown on Car screen: 952HP
- Shown on Replay Screen: 906HP
2) 8500 miles, with oil change
- Shown on Car screen: 906HP
- Shown on Replay screen: 906HP
As it can be seen, the last value of test 1) matches the two values of test 2), for both the vehicle fitted with Stage 4 Turbo and the vehicle stock, respectively.
Summary:
1) Vehicle tested starts experiencing permanet power drop at 650 miles
2) Vehicle tested reaches maximum permanent power drop (and therefore minimum power available with clean oil, for a given configuration) at 8500 miles
3) Power shown on the Replay screen is amount of power the vehicle would have once reached its maximum power drop due to mileage, with clean oil
4) Both the Dodge SRT4 '03 and the MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89 experience a ~5% permanent power drop from their 0 miles condition to the condition stated in the Replay screen (which, at this point, is assumed to be the one stated in 3))
5) It appears no "break in" period is present in GT4 (it was, in GT3), as the Dodge SRT4 '03 did not gain any additional amounts of power, even if run extensively on the Test Course. Therefore, it can be concluded that in GT4 neither prize vehicles nor purchased vehicles need to be "broken in", in order to be at their highest amount of power
I am aware more vehicles need to be tested, in order to confirm the mileage, and the percentage of power drop, but it can be safe to say that the value shown on the Replay screen is indeed the minimum power the vehicle will reach with clean oil.
*All the tests were performed in "World Circuits", Infineon Raceway - Sports Car Course, unless otherwise stated.
The Wizard.
Units available for Power: PS, HP, BHP, CH, kW, CV, PF
Units available for Torque: kgf.m, ft.lb, NM
Power
There are at least 6 places (that I know of) where the Power of a vehicle can be checked:
1) Garage Screen (where up to 10 vehicles of the ones currently possessed are listed)
2) Car Screen (screen that appears after clicking on one particular vehicle)
3) Sell Screen (screen that appears after clicking on the Sell icon)
4) Settings Screen (screen that appears after clicking on the Settings icon, before a race) - (Power is shown in the small Power and Torque Graph, top right of the screen)
5) Settings Screen (screen that appears after clicking on the Settings icon, before a race) - (Power is shown in the big Power and Torque Graph, which can be brought up by pressing Start)
6) Replay (at the beginning of it, Power is listed along with choice of tires, among other things)
Example (note I set HP as my units for Power):
MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89, Stage 4 Turbo:
1) 1223HP
2) 1206HP
3) 1206HP
4) 1223HP
5) 1206HP
6) 1148HP
I was discussing this with Small_Fryz and he suggested for me to check if maybe the digits shown in the Garage Screen and in the small Power and Torque Graph (see 1) and 4)) are shown in the amount they would be in PS, regardless of the units chosen in the Options. So I changed the units to PS, and sure enough, the value of 1) and 4) did not change. Thanks to Small_Fryz for pointing this out.
This is the outcome of choosing PS for the units of Power:
1) 1223PS
2) 1223PS
3) 1223PS
4) 1223PS
5) 1223PS
6) 1164PS
So, as we can see, all the figures now match (except for the one in the Replay), and are all in the same units. Therefore Small_Fryz was correct, the digits shown in the garage screen always refer to PS, regardless of the choice of units made in the Options. Same for the digits shown in the small Graph, within the Settings screen.
Therefore, the only places where YOUR choice of units (provided that your choice is different than PS) for Power is reflected are these:
1) Car Screen (screen that appears after clicking on one particular vehicle)
2) Sell Screen (screen that appears after clicking on the Sell icon)
3) Settings Screen (screen that appears after clicking on the Settings icon, before a race) - (Power is shown in the big Power and Torque Graph, which can be brought up by pressing Start)
4) Replay (at the beginning of it, Power is listed along with choice of tires, among other things)
Everything else is always in PS, and the digits will not change, even if other types of units are selected for Power, in the Options (oddly enough, though, the different units will be appended to the number, even if the number is always the same - the one it would be if PS was chosen).
Changing the units to BHP, CH (1CH = 1PS), kW, CV (1CV = 1PS), PF (1PF = 1PS) does not induce any change into the number shown in the Garage Screen or in the small Power and Torque Graph. Everything else changes accordingly, though.
Moving onto...
Torque
There are at least 3 places (that I know of) where the Torque of a vehicle can be checked:
1) Car Screen (screen that appears after clicking on one particular vehicle)
2) Sell Screen (screen that appears after clicking on the Sell icon)
3) Settings Screen (screen that appears after clicking on the Settings icon, before a race) - (Torque is shown in the big Power and Torque Graph, which can be brought up by pressing Start)
Example (note I set kgf.m as my units for Torque):
MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89, Stage 4 Turbo:
1) 112.95 kgf.m
2) 112.95 kgf.m
3) 113 kgf.m (note this one is rounded up to show an integer number - no decimal places)
This is the outcome of choosing ft.lb for the units of Torque:
1) 816.96 ft.lb
2) 816.96 ft.lb
3) 817 ft.lb (note this one is rounded up to show an integer number - no decimal places)
And, lastly, this is the outcome of choosing NM for the units of Torque:
1) 1106.91 NM
2) 1106.91 NM
3) 1107 NM (note this one is rounded up to show an integer number - no decimal places)
As it can be noted, all the digits are reflected correctly (so were the ones for Power, in those particular locations).
Therefore, it is to be concluded that the digits in the Garage Screen and in the small Power and Torque Graph (visible within the Settings Screen) do not mirror the user's choice for the Power units, while the digits shown in the Car Screen, Sell Screen and the big Power and Torque Graph (visible within the Setting Screen, after pressing Start) match correctly the unit selection made into Options (for both Power and Torque).
Here are some useful conversion factors:
1 HP = 0.745 kW
1 kgf.m = 7.23 ft.lb
1 kgf.m = 9.81 NM
1 ft.lb = 1.36 NM
UPDATE - The following information was added April 10, 2005
I have just spent the past couple of days doing some more testings to figure out why the power figure shown on the Replay screen does not agree with the other "accepted" figures (Car Screen, Sell Screen, and big Power and Torque Graph).
I started with the assumption, originally suggested by blurred (see post #3, below), that the power shown on the Replay screen would be the power the vehicle would have without performing an oil change (when bought anew).
Therefore, I bought a new Dodge SRT4 '03 and tested it*.
1) 0 miles, without oil change:
- Shown on Car Screen: 230HP
- Shown on Replay Screen: 229HP
I immediately thought: "Not good. If I perform an oil change, the car will end up having even more horsepower. 229HP must refer to something else."
I did test it with an oil change, nonetheless:
2) 0 miles, with oil change:
- Shown on Car Screen: 241HP
- Shown on Replay Screen: 229HP
Well, good. At least the power figure on the Replay screen stays constant (for a given vehicle configuration).
Would the power shown on the Replay screen be the power the vehicle would have with "really" dirty oil? (it is known, from GT3, that the modifier for dirty oil for a vehicle bought at a dealer is lower [in magnitude] than the modifier for dirty oil coming from high mileage).
Well, only one way to check. I went to the Used Car Showroom II and picked me up a Honda S2000 Type V '01, with 24,266.4 miles.
Here are the results from testing the Honda S2000 Type V '01:
1) 24,266.4 miles, dirty oil (oil light was on):
- Shown on Car Screen: 220HP
- Shown on Replay Screen: 243HP
Ok, we are good. An oil change should hopefully bump it back up.
And, sure enough...
2) 24,266.4 miles, clean oil:
- Shown on Car Screen: 243HP
- Shown on Replay Screen: 243HP
Ok, then the oil light needs to be on, in order for the car to achieve its minimum power? Not likely. The car had 24,266.4 miles. That includes permanent power drop for the engine (same way it happens in GT3).
Only one other way to test this: take a new (0 miles) MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89, slap a Stage 4 Turbo, take it to the Test Course (in the "Driving Park" section), and let the B-spec driver drive the hell out of it. How long could it take? In GT3 the permanent power drop happened within the first few hundred miles anyway. I couldn't have been further from the truth
It took 650 miles just for the permanent power drop process to start. I kept driving it in B-spec for about 300 miles at a time, quitting, changing the oil, checking the power value and the mileage, and plotting the results with Excel. It seemed a pretty linear relationship, so I fitted a line and found analytically how many miles it would take for the power to drop to 1148HP (the value listed on the Replay screen, for the MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89 fitted with a Stage 4 Turbo). The value turned out to be ~8100 miles. I let B-spec run it up to that point, and then checked the amount of horses that were still alive. 1150. Close, but not close enough. I still run it in B-spec, checking every 50 miles or so. The vehicle finally got to 1149 at ~8400 miles. I took over, and run 25 mile legs at a time. Finally, the car reached 1148 at 8495 miles. The value shown on the small Power and Torque Graph was 1165PS, though. I thought, sure the mileage value has to be a "whole" number. So, I run the car one mile at a time, and finally, at 8500 miles the value shown on the small Power and Torque Graph dropped to 1164PS. That's the minimum value of power this vehicle will reach, with a Stage 4 turbo, due only to engine wear [all the numbers were checked with clean oil].
I let the vehicle run in B-spec for another couple hundred miles, just to make sure the power would not drop any further (due to engine wear), and sure enough, 1164PS - 1148HP was the lowest value.
Therefore, the theory is proven.
The power value shown on the Replay screen is the amount of power the vehicle would have once the engine has experienced the maximum power drop due to mileage (which happens to occur at 8500 miles, while the power drop process itself starts at 650 miles), with clean oil.
Summary:
MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89, Stage 4 Turbo:
1) 0 miles, with oil change
- Shown on Car screen: 1206HP
- Shown on Replay screen: 1148HP
2) 8500 miles, with oil change
- Shown on Car screen: 1148HP
- Shown on Replay screen: 1148HP
I also did two more tests, to see if this would apply to a stock MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89.
MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89, stock:
1) 0 miles, with oil change
- Shown on Car screen: 952HP
- Shown on Replay Screen: 906HP
2) 8500 miles, with oil change
- Shown on Car screen: 906HP
- Shown on Replay screen: 906HP
As it can be seen, the last value of test 1) matches the two values of test 2), for both the vehicle fitted with Stage 4 Turbo and the vehicle stock, respectively.
Summary:
1) Vehicle tested starts experiencing permanet power drop at 650 miles
2) Vehicle tested reaches maximum permanent power drop (and therefore minimum power available with clean oil, for a given configuration) at 8500 miles
3) Power shown on the Replay screen is amount of power the vehicle would have once reached its maximum power drop due to mileage, with clean oil
4) Both the Dodge SRT4 '03 and the MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89 experience a ~5% permanent power drop from their 0 miles condition to the condition stated in the Replay screen (which, at this point, is assumed to be the one stated in 3))
5) It appears no "break in" period is present in GT4 (it was, in GT3), as the Dodge SRT4 '03 did not gain any additional amounts of power, even if run extensively on the Test Course. Therefore, it can be concluded that in GT4 neither prize vehicles nor purchased vehicles need to be "broken in", in order to be at their highest amount of power
I am aware more vehicles need to be tested, in order to confirm the mileage, and the percentage of power drop, but it can be safe to say that the value shown on the Replay screen is indeed the minimum power the vehicle will reach with clean oil.
*All the tests were performed in "World Circuits", Infineon Raceway - Sports Car Course, unless otherwise stated.
The Wizard.