Formula GT Championship Help

Hi Peeps.

Sorry as im a newbie, but i have been searching this forum for 3 days now looking for some advice, settings or anything to give me the edge on the frustrating Formula Championship. I NEED THE SAUBER!!!!! I have tryed to fiddle with the setting but every time my car makes a good start and then bam i lose , i can get to the 5th race without loosing but then my formula one car and b=spec bob become an embarresmet. I read that you need about 6000 b=spec points for your driver and bob has about 8000 now so he should be able to....shouldnt he? Any help anybody can give me will be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance.

also apologies it i have posted this in the wrong place.


EDIT: I can spell really and im sure u all knew i ment Championship

Try race your self, not B-Spec

Benjii

Hi Peeps.

Sorry as im a newbie, but i have been searching this forum for 3 days now looking for some advice, settings or anything to give me the edge on the frustrating Formula Championship. I NEED THE SAUBER!!!!! I have tryed to fiddle with the setting but every time my car makes a good start and then bam i lose , i can get to the 5th race without loosing but then my formula one car and b=spec bob become an embarresmet. I read that you need about 6000 b=spec points for your driver and bob has about 8000 now so he should be able to....shouldnt he? Any help anybody can give me will be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance.

also apologies it i have posted this in the wrong place.


EDIT: I can spell really and im sure u all knew i ment Championship

Click to expand...

I used B-spec with only 5400 points and I only lost two races and those were because I screwed up my pitting strategy, not Stupid SOB-Spec's fault. Actually this was the first time I put him in a race that he wouldn't just walk away with and I was impressed.

One thing I found that helped was to do very minor gearing adjustments for tracks. Tracks without long stretches and high speed straights got shorter ratios so that he would accelerate back to a high speed quicker and pull away from the other cars. The only tricky track for gearing adjustments was Fuji. That long straight combined with all the curves made it hard to find the proper gearing ratios.

Once I get my S-License I will go back and A-Spec it. I know it isn't hard to earn but I got stuck on the Suzuka run one night and decided to tune my cars that I had been winning left and right and not touching. I have been doing that ever since and just haven't gone back to finish my S license.

I ran the whole thing in A-spec and won 14 out of 15 by at least half a lap, usually several laps. (The 15th, Suzuka, I won by a few seconds, only because I couldn't stay on the track...). This is one of the easier and more enjoyable series in a-spec, other than the 21 hours or so it take to finish it. If you really just want the Sauber, you probably only need to run the first ten races to get enough points to win anyway, especially if you "help" the 2nd place points leader lose a couple races. I didn't touch the car, running every race with stock settings (except -2 toe and raised a bit for the bumpy tracks (Ring, Sarthe, El Capitan)). See my write up "Formula GT in A-Spec" for more info.

bigjoe

...the 21 hours or so it take to finish it...

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That's the problem for a lot of us. Some day he'll A-Spec the whole thing, but...

In the meantime, he really wants the Sauber, so here's a blurb that should help:

________________________________________

I'm wondering if maybe PD has implemented ASM differently on the Formula GT car. I'm conditioned from the old GT3 days to always turn ASM off because the conventional wisdom is that it makes you go slower. I've tried it on a couple of cars in GT4, and sure enough, I can't match my lap times with ASM off. Worse than that, it makes cars boring to drive.

Well, that doesn't seem to be the case with the F1. Prompted by a comment on another forum, I tried it and was astounded to find that I can go a lot faster with this car with high ASM settings. It makes a big difference, to me at least.

It doesn't feel anything like what it does on other cars. On the F1 it feels like a big increase in downforce, rather than an invisible force guiding the car around. Don't misunderstand me: I'm not saying this is a good thing. If I'm right, its a shame, I guess.

Try this slightly-modified-from-stock setup. (Thanks to "R32GTST/M", "stigie", "Awajie Islander", and "Duck7892" on the Tuning and Settings forum for their input, which led me to it.) It works extremely well, and greatly improves tire life to boot:

SR 17.4 / 17.5
RH 45 / 45
SB 6 / 6
SR 8 / 8
Camb 2.0 / 1.0
Toe 0 / -2
BB 4 / 1

LSDI 15
LSDA 45
LSDD 55

ASM 10 / 10
TCS 5
DF Max

Its just a subtle change from stock, as you can see, but the difference it makes is, to me at least, drastic. I find it to be a real improvement over stock. The tire wear problem is greatly reduced. This is not a "qualifying" setup or a tire-wear-off lap-record setup. This is for use in the long races of the Formula GT series.

Check it for yourself and see what you think about the ASM deal. Try it as above, then set ASM to 0/0 and see what happens. Is ASM somehow different on the Formula GT? Are you significantly faster with it set to 10/10 than you are with it off?. I sure am...

To use the transmission final drive settings below, first do the old "tranny trick":

1. Slide Final all the way to the right to 5.500.
2. Slide Autoset full right to 25, then full left to 1 and leave it there. You now have a very close set of evenly-spaced gears without having to tediously set each one.
3. Then slide Final to the ratio for the track you are going to race on. Here are the actual Final settings for each track in the Formula GT series:

Tokyo Route 246 - 3.220
Twin Ring Motegi-Super Speedway - 3.220
New York - 3.220
High Speed Ring - 3.220
Grand Valley Speedway - 3.220
Circuit de la Sarthe I - 3.220
Cote d' Azur - 3.750
Seoul Central - 3.220
Infineon Raceway-Sports Car Course - 3.700
Laguna Seca Raceway - 3.700
Twin Ring Motegi-Road Course - 3.500
Nurburgring - 3.220
El Captain - 3.400
Fuji Speedway 2005 - 3.220
Suzuka Circuit - 3.500

(Lots of tracks with the same Final, but why bother to make slight little changes when the 3.22 is almost perfect? Its certainly close enough on all of the nine tracks.)

Here's aother tip: The fuel will last over twice as long as the tires. Rather than filling up with fuel on each pit stop, just take on a half-load (or even less on some tracks) each time by pressing "X" to stop the fueling. That way, you're running light all the time and you also shorten every pit stop. If you're B-Speccing the event, the effect is even more significant, because Bob (my Bob, at least) really likes to run light in the F1. He blows past other cars much easier, and the way he runs off to a big lead in a light car is kind of amazing. The shortened pit stops don't hurt, either. Running a light fuel load could make the difference between winning and losing the Formula GT Championship.
_________________________________

Thanks alot to everybody who had submitted helpfull info. Yes i will a-spec it some time but for the moment work and a girlfrind tend to hold B-spec bob with high regards!!! if i a-speced it at present id still be doing it this time next year!!

once again thanks to everyone on here

I was also in a BIG hurry to get the Sauber and decided to Bspec it x3. The only real help or advise in that regard is to qualify each race as high as you can before giving Bob the wheel. If you manage to qualify 1st, chances are Bob will keep it. My Bobster won all but the Speedway and one other.
It is now on my Aspec to-do list.
By the way, you'll love the Sauber

JParker

I always run the race in A-spec for the 1st 2 pit stops, then I B-spec the finial laps of the race. I always give bob(boob) a big lead and he always wins. Although some were very close.

Andy
Silentmother.

Thanks Everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!

Im now the proud ower of a sauber. What a Car, the first attemp at a lap of the Ringpiece (nurburgring) and i was rewarded with a 5min 44 second lap.

I know this is a bit late, but eventually someone else is going to want to see something regarding the formula championship and it is for them that I write this.

First off.
B spec doesn't need any specific number of points.
I finished off the formula championship with less than 5000 b spec points.

Also, a great strategy for winning the formula championship is to...

Start with practice.
Get that pole position.

Race in A spec until you must pit, then race A spec until you must pit again.
Hopefully you will have a great lead by that point.

So for that third pit stop switch over to B spec.
Put it on speed 4 and let it go.

Personally, I did it all at speed 5.
However, I also got to the 9th race (infineon) and started spinning out.
At that point I did my usual 2 pit A spec run, then switched over to speed 4 and sure enough the B spec didn't spin once.
He took the race and I was set.

On that note, you don't need to do all of the races.
I took first place in the first 9 races and just skipped the rest of the races.
The final results were close, but in the end I won the championship.
(It might be best to do 10 or 11 of the races just to be safe)

Another thing that I am just now thinking of is the car's setup.
My car felt great and guess what?
I barely did anything to it!

Leave everything at stock, then move the toe from -6 to -2.
That should be enough to help out almost anyone.
Beyond that only a bit of tranny adjustment may be needed, but there is no garuntee that you will need to play with the tranny at all.

Well...
Good luck to all of you who are embarking on this challenge.

I enjoyed the races greatly.

I thought this series was a joke. On Laguna seca i finished Three laps ahead of the 2nd place car. On Grand Valley my lap times were like 5 sec. better than the other cars. I wish there were more difficult races for the high end cars.

I b-speced this series of races with about 3800-3900 bspec points. Finished it with about 4100. Didn't lose any of the races either.

what is the easiest way to win the f1 chamionship?
cars, settings, a-pec or b-spec........

i am currently doing this using B-Spec in my blue f1 car. 4 races, 4 wins.

thebigmacmoomin

i am currently doing this using B-Spec in my blue f1 car. 4 races, 4 wins.

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i will try that

I found though that B-spec Bob got through the tyres a bit quick, and had to pit too often, to help this change the the rear toe angle to -2. 👍

dan5682003

what is the easiest way to win the f1 chamionship?
cars, settings, a-pec or b-spec........

Click to expand...

First off,
Hey dan, welcome to the gtp.

Be sure to use the search feature that you obviously skipped when making this thread.

There was a formula championship thread on the very next page of this forum. 👍

Now, just to show you that I'm not a total arse...

The first thing to do is leave your F1's settings alone.
Only adjust the following:
1) Toe: set the toe at -2
2) Driving Aids: set the asm for both over and under at 0... Leave TCS at 5.

The stock setup is nearly perfect for almost any track.

However, the key to winning the FGT championship is not in the setup of the car.

The key to this series is in your driving.
No, I don't want you to A spec every last lap or anything of that nature.

However, to really ensure victory in the F1 races there are a few things you can do on your own in A-spec.

Practice & Qualify in the Pole Position.
Getting that first spot on the starting grid can contribute to your lead much more than you would think.
Just get up there and go, no worries about being slowed down when passing the various competitors.

Start Each Race In A-spec.
With pole position starting in A-spec will give you the chance to gain as much as 6-10 seconds per lap on the AI competition.

Run A-spec for Atleast 1 Full Tire Life Cycle.
Running the entire life of your first tire set will give you time to develop a lead big enough to pit and get back out there in first place.
Plus, with -2 toe you will probably get as many laps out of your tires as some of the AI.

Run a second Tire Life Cycle In A-spec.
This might not seem necessary, but it probably is.
Without doing a second stint you will find that the AI is quite capable of catching up and passing (partly thanks to the possibility that you are pitting on odd laps).

However, after running a second stint you will surely have a lead large enough to stay in the lead once you have taken a second pit stop and switched over to B-spec.

Switching Over To B-spec...
This seems like a simple trick.
Just put it on B-spec at speed 5 and let it go.
It is not that simple though.
On races like Race 9 (infineon) you must pay attention to the b-spec driving line and track time.

Speed 5 at infineon will result in spin-outs between t1 and t2 on the long down-hill left hander.

With that in mind, set your speed to 5 at each track and watch.
If the B-spec can handle 5 just set the view speed to X3 and let the race go.

However, on tracks like infineon watch the race at speed 5 and adjust as needed.
I used speed 4 for the infineon race and it led to faster laps than speed 5 due to the spin-outs.

Keep all those things in mind and you will certainly be able to finish each of the races faster than they would normally be finished and in first place every time.

Good luck and god speed.

What I would do, is A-Spec every race for at least one or two pit stops. This would allow me a decent lead in the race, and also to learn when the AI would pit. I'd then pit either at the same time (with my lead) or a lap after they pit, then have my B-Spec driver race a good amount of laps, and I would then have him pit around their stops / strategy. The AI usually always pits like clockwork. Say they pit on the 12th lap, and they will probably pit again on lap 24..MAYBE 25. Use this to your advantage, it's very easy to plan around once you see them pit once.

man the F1 championship was just as easy, if not easier, than the one in GT3. I had no problem with stock settings and changing the toe in on rear and tranny adjusting. Sure I'd pit early, except on motegi ring, I pitted 5 more laps than the AI cars there every time, but I out accelerated them and drove harder than them. Bob drove a bit and he only had like 3400 points, he was a weak *****.

Motegi oval: you dont need to brake at all if you hit the turns right. the smaller turn you might fish tail slightly but it is controllable. If you camber the rear tires 2 deg and the front 3 deg you will just dig into the turn like the tires have glue on them.

Please hold all laughter.

💡 Has anyone tried to do the F1 championship with a Group C car like the Toyota Minolta or the Nissan 92 race car? If so, (and done successfully) could anyone recommend their strategies/settings?

OK, you can laugh now

Dizzy K

...OK, you can laugh now...

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Nobody's laughing. Many have done it with the Minolta Toyota and Audi R8. You have a big tire life advantage over the F1s with a Le Mans car.

It sure looks funny, though...

Dizzy K

Please hold all laughter.

💡 Has anyone tried to do the F1 championship with a Group C car like the Toyota Minolta or the Nissan 92 race car? If so, (and done successfully) could anyone recommend their strategies/settings?

OK, you can laugh now

Click to expand...

I'm not laughing, as at the moment I am not in possession of an F1, so thought I'd give the super speedway a go with my Minolta. To my surprise, I actually managed to win it by all of 1.5 seconds. The F1's pitted every 11-12 laps, but my Minolta, with super hards front and rear managed 27 or more laps between stops. I did get a little help when 3 of the F1's got in a tangle, and took an age to get sorted. But, then thought that I'd try the Tokyo race, and got completely blown away.

Dizzy K

...Has anyone tried to do the F1 championship with a Group C car? If so, (and done successfully) could anyone recommend their strategies/settings?

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OG explains it all for you:

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=65128



.

Zardoz, again to my aid...

Thanks for that - I just got around to doing the El Capitan Enduro. Perhaps my brand spanking Minolta is up to the task. Though i'd need to be driving a bit better than I am to match OG's performance. 11 wins from 12 completions - bordering on freakish.

I feel this is one that the B-Spec won't be able to do it justice (doubt I can either!)

Thanks again

Have got to Motegi Road Course ( Race 12 ? ) in my Minolta. Has anyone got a good pit strategy for this car?

nige

Have got to Motegi Road Course ( Race 12 ? ) in my Minolta. Has anyone got a good pit strategy for this car?

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Hiya nige: The only advice I can offer is from my running this series with the Sauber...NOT the Minolta. What worked for me was: Use a R2 / R2 Tyre Combo & Pit @ 9s but stretch Last one to 10! Hope this Helps! 👍
...O.G.

Old Geezer

Hiya nige: The only advice I can offer is from my running this series with the Sauber...NOT the Minolta. What worked for me was: Use a R2 / R2 Tyre Combo & Pit @ 9s but stretch Last one to 10! Hope this Helps! 👍
...O.G.

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Old Geezer. Thanks for the advice. Using the Minolta I have managed to win all the races so far by finding a suitable pit strategy and using RH on the front and RSH on the rear. But in this race i pit every 12 laps and am still a minute or so down towards the end of the race.