Tuner Garages

  • Thread starter Kent
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well, IMO, everyone who wants a garage, should have it in here.
But offcourse, if you're doing a project with a friend, like Greycap and leonidae are doing, exceptions could be made.

anyone disagrees?
 
Honda NSX Type S Zero '97
parts were bought from spoon(403 HP)
race exhaust
port polish
engine balancing
NA tuning stage 2
Sport chip
nitrous

race brakes
brake controller

full customize transmission
full LSD
race flywheel
triple clutch

racing suspension
R3 tires
stage 1 weight
all rigidity parts
oil change

Settings
Nitrous:44
brakes:5/5
Spring rate:13.5/10.8
Ride Height:104/104
Bound:8/8
Rebound:8/8
Camber angle:3.5/2.7
Toe:0/0
Stabilizers:5/5

Transmission Auto:13 Final:4.092
First:3.319
Second:2.212
Third:1.606
Fourth:1.225
Fifth:0.979
Sixth:0.838
LSD:15/47/20
No aids
Tsukuba Time:0'53.542
400M:0'11.600 WHEEL SPIN:scared:
This is my second car i have tuned and there are still a few problems with it but they are not too bad. It has alot of wheel spin in first and understeers every once in a while. I still like it.
P.S. For anyone that has driven my wagon, which i don't think anyone did, i forgot to post the gear settings, so i will go back and do that eventually. Comments would be appreciated, but it would be cooler if someone wrote a review on it,hint hint
 
----------------------------------------------------------------------

Azevedojose's R32 Review:

At last, here it is! Sorry for taking so long, I had some other things to do.

The car
I have to say it was a wonderful car choice of you. This is one of these cars I see a lot where I live, just not with this amount of power.:)
it was fun to drive it too.:D



The settings
At first I thought: "Wow, he didn't do very much on this one".
But after a few laps at GVS(little nurb), I got myself an awakening.:P

The car does a decent job. I mean, 2'17.89 on GVS isn't bad for a car with this amount of BHP and Weight.

Then, I went for Azevedojose's settings. These settings had a very nice result: 2'13.65!
This quite amazed me, because he didn't do much to the car at all and still got 4,24 seconds off.:) So big 👍

Okay, and now...
The real Test!
First, I drove the car stock around nurb.
Result: 8'57. (Okay, it was a long time since the last time I drove nurb!)
Secondly, I drove the car Azevedojose set up.
Result: 8'37.

20 seconds off!

Dude, this rocks!:P

Quite a good set up, although you could get more out of it with a little investment. I would suggest you to buy the racing flywheel and the triple clutch.

Happy tuning!

Vince.

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​
 
Anyone going to test mine? If someone does test please test at Tsubuka as that's where I honed it.
 
Greycap
Am I irritated by this? Lying takes me nowhere so hell yes, I saw an empty place to be filled and then the others obviously thought that copying a good idea is a good idea too.
Click to expand...

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

However, it's the result that counts. I haven't driven any of the tuner setting cars, but I've seen some interesting combos. I should try your RUF settings, since I worked at a DFP/Nurburgring setup for mine.
 
Venari
Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

However, it's the result that counts. I haven't driven any of the tuner setting cars, but I've seen some interesting combos. I should try your RUF settings, since I worked at a DFP/Nurburgring setup for mine.
Click to expand...
You're correct on that, and copying is a sign of success. However, when I wrote that post I didn't know how successful he thought we were. Now I know and I made my opinion very public in his thread. I suggest reading Post #16 of it if you have some extra time.

On the RUF settings, and any of our settings on that matter, feel free to try them out! We'll be coming up with a "skill level system" shortly indicating the skill needed to drive the cars, to help different people to find the suitable cars for themselves. And that RUF will have an "Expert" rating. ;) More discussion should be done in the thread though, as our garage isn't here the discussion doesn't belong here either, it would only take space from the garages here. 👍
 
yeah... Popular. I had just woke up when i typed that... useless post.

Group A Rally Evo 6!
MER_SAIFZ_Evo6.jpg


You need:
2000 Mitsubishi Evo VI RS Tommi Makinen Edition (should have 317hp)
FC transmission
suspension(racing)
rigidity refresher thanks greycap
rollcage(rigidity)
weight stage one,
86kgs of ballast.(get it to 1230)
VCD
Full LSD


140/175
Springs: 4.5/4.3
Bound: 2/2
rebound: 5/6
toe: 0/0
camber: 2.2/1.4
we need the car to roll some, so we can keep tire traction...
Roll bar: 2/5
LSD: front: 20/25/5 Rear: 40/45/15
Torque to front wheels: turn it up to 40%, 19% AFTER you are confident with the 40.
 
That looks like a pretty good rally setup! 👍

Two guestions though, where are you getting the power figure and why the rollcage? Group A rules only allowed 300 bhp of power and the car has about that much as stock. And about the rollcage... never apply it before the chassis has been refreshened first or you'll end up with a very stiff, yet twisted car.
 
I used a gameshark, so I got all the cars in my garage, brand new.. i forgot about that thing since i havent bought a used car yet. I only said 317 because thats how much it has stock, so incase they didn't get the right car. technically any evo 6 will work though.
oops, I didnt realize i typed 5-17.. thank you
roll cage is alway been required for FIA, no?
 
Greycap
I seriously think it's odd that so many individual tuner garages have popped up after I made that one of me and Leonidae. Heavy bandwagoning or what? There had been none for a long time, everyone had settled for this thread. Then we baked a cake and everyone wanted their slice of it. :odd:

Am I irritated by this? Lying takes me nowhere so hell yes, I saw an empty place to be filled and then the others obviously thought that copying a good idea is a good idea too.
Click to expand...


Heeyy...

I had started mine well before the new guys, albeit after you.

I must congratulate you. You stole my thunder. :lol: Just kidding, but it's hard to run a shop in the shadow of yours. No traffic! And no testers!

Ah, heck, maybe I'll toss the new Legacy into this thread. And start Sigvertizing. (Where IS the trademark symbol when I need it!?!?)

Tulok: GSRs will corner a little differently and be a little heavier. Scoobies are better than Evos, though. Better torque curve. :sly:
 
thats all opinion, because you use balast to get it to 1230... and a certain torque curve wont work "better" in all situations.
 
Ahh, there I go again, blanket statements.

In the Scoobie V Eveo thing, the early Scoobs may have less torque, but they hold their torque further into the revs. That is better, IMO.
 
TigrTracks Garage is run by a vivacious feline with far more enthusiasm than driving ability, and Sparky, his robot driver buddy! Between the two of them they can put a car into every concievable situation and attitude. Sparky does the hot laps, while Jinxtigr specializes in going through corners sideways and upside down. Once a car can maintain its composure when thrashed through a course by Jinx, it's so well balanced that Sparky has an easy time with it.

Human drivers beating Sparky's lap times are heartily encouraged!

First car from the garage can be summed up in six words: "Ariel Atom for all practical purposes"...

suzukigsxr4picso6.jpg


The Suzuki GSX-R/4 is the ultimate tiny monster! It can be had by winning the Suzuki Concept Car manufacturer race, and once TigrTracks turns it over to you, it will do this:

suzukigsxdragya0.jpg

9.513 seconds at Las Vegas- driven by Jinxtigr, using the NOS system- and it will also do this:

suzukigsxringqq6.jpg

7'11 at Nurburgring, beating RUFs, Vipers and Cobras- starting from 6th place- driven by Sparky, with R5 qualifying tires and no use of the NOS.

Here's what we do.

Racing Exhaust
Racing Chip
R5 Tires (you can use sport tires or R3 too, without grief)
Nitrous 100 (that's right, 100. The stuff is for the drag strip..)
Port Polish
Engine Balancing
Turbo stage 2
Racing Brakes but no Brake Balance Controller
Triple-Plate Clutch
Racing Flywheel
Lighten 3
Rigidity Refresher, but no roll cage
Wing (the first black one works but isn't too big for the looks of the car)
Full Suspension, Full Transmission

For Suspension front/rear:
Spring Rate 8/8
Ride Height 66/66
Bound 2/3
Rebound 7/5 (no, those aren't typoes- this car claws at the ground like a cornering cat using body moves learned from earlier Chaparral 2J tuning)
Camber 1.5/1.5
Toe 1/0
Stabilizer 6/5

For the transmission: Tranny Trick and adjustments resulting in the following-
3.601
2.869
2.210
1.783
1.474
1.246
final drive, 3.700.

Downforce, 24/30. Not 30/30, 24/30. It's important to have more downforce on the rear so the car will rotate through turns freely at a wide range of speeds, and with full front downforce it cuts the corners too tightly if you get it whirling and then let go the wheel. The idea is that under any condition the car will keep doing what it was doing unless you tell it to do something else, at which point it will leap to do what you asked. Sparky vouches for this and points to his 7'11 Ring time with one robotic finger.

Limited-Slip Differential-
initial torque 5 (can be increased to tighten the car's freedom of motion up)
Acceleration 40 (if it's really important to be able to turn from an absolute standstill, lower this. Better yet, don't, get rolling and THEN turn)
Deceleration 10.

If anyone can beat Sparky's Ring time in this car, we'd be most interested to hear about it! We hope it finds a place in your hearts as it does in ours. It is truly GT4's nearest thing to an Ariel Atom, all the more so because artistic tuning seeks to make it respond to your every whim from low to ludicrous speeds, over any road, rumble strip, or curb.

If we've missed anything, please don't be shy :)

-jinxtigr and Sparky
 
After rereading Scaff's Tuning guide, this question rose in my head:

"How do all these guys tune cars?"

Explanation: where do you start with? (Brakes, Suspension or just a test drive?) Is there any routine in your tuning?

Thanks.
 
Haha, I baseline tune and THEN tweak.

That's why all my road setups look alike. (Hey, 2.3/1.8 camber WORKS, and it's reasonable)

Although, I am going to start changing that soon.
 
I normally do a test drive first > Buy the parts > Test drive again > Setup the suspension and test drive until I have a good suspension setup > then the LSD > the brakes and last the transmission.
 
Leonidae
test drive, just to figure out the strong points and weak points, then tuning accordingly.
Click to expand...

Thanks Leo for your reply.

Rotary Junkie
Haha, I baseline tune and THEN tweak.

That's why all my road setups look alike. (Hey, 2.3/1.8 camber WORKS, and it's reasonable)

Although, I am going to start changing that soon.
Click to expand...

Could you explain the Baseline tune a bit?
I suggest you to reread Scaff's tuning guide, it helped me a lot and I think it improved my tuning a lot too.:)

LdS
I normally do a test drive first > Buy the parts > Test drive again > Setup the suspension and test drive until I have a good suspension setup > then the LSD > the brakes and last the transmission.
Click to expand...

Thanks LDS:)

+rep for you three.
 
I do whatever power modifications I think are going to go into the final car and then get into it (A-spec) and race the Capri rally aggressively, seeing at what points the car doesn't want to come around or turns too freely. I've taken to also going to Infineon (Sears Point) or Fuji to see what happens on bigger turns under full throttle. I go to Nurburgring first A-spec and then using Sparky to see how things hold together with constant bumps and instability through constant turns- Sparky can go way faster than my sorry butt so he becomes indispensable at this point, plus he's more consistent. In many cases I'll go to Test Course to set final drive ratios but I'm less interested in sitting there for ten seconds waiting for that last MPH.

It's all about the way the car moves, both rotationally and how it responds to road elevation changes. If you're coming over a bump, even if you don't leave the ground, the load on all the tires just changed radically. This affects grip, it affects the way the mass of the car is pitching and rolling- the fun thing is to get a sense for how it's working, which is why 'rocket sled' setups aren't usually ideal, they're just minimizing the car's ability to USE its mass to put itself into a useful attitude.

Gotta do a Lotus Esprit at some point, another car in which the handling is the whole thing.

Do you guys need me to re-do the lap times on the Suzuki with S3 (for instance) in order to be taken seriously? I'm a bit new to this and searched all over just to find out how to make a garage in the first place. I may still be doing it wrong. Please advise.
 
I usually give it a baseline setup, that evo was baseline first, I almost never drive a car stock If i am going to tune it. Then I raced it and made some adjustments right on this page.
 
When I get off my lazy arse, I'll drive it with full power on whatever tires I'm tuning on, then toss the suspension on, drive it, tweak it from there, and then do my best on the LSD. But right now I keep baselining.

Vince: My baseline starts out as (for road cars on pavement) middle of the road, equal at all corners excluding camber. Usually, a baseline for me runs 7.5/7.5 spring rates, a reasonable ride height, shocks at 3/5 at both ends, camber at 2.3/1.8, and default stabilizers. Some cars just "click" to it, others are problem children. (Heh, that Integra was magic. Just made a few tweaks, geared it, drove it.) Speaking of problem children and Esprits, the 22B is coming derailed. My Esprit (Complete with 400 miles of pure time-attack use) is coming out to play. I lost on Sarthe II to cars that top out at sub-200mph due to BIG problems with stability. Race cars I traditionally just go a little stiffer sprung.

Jinx: Sears Point is a good mix of corners and elevation changes, and has a few spots where it's grab or grass for the car (The two off-camber lefts. Wrong line and you are in the grass), so good for you that you test there!
 
Thanks. That's actually one course where I'll be driving 90% myself (Sparky is for really PUSHING at Nurburgring and being able to watch the car's behavior while not driving it) and I find it really tough going, but I do manage to take the car to the limit most of the time, even while wiping out several times a lap :)

I'm looking forward to responses on the Suzuki, even if it's only an explanation of what I'm doing that's out of step with everybody. Everything has a context and I'm still trying to work out what's proper behavior for GTplanet- I'd much rather tune cars that people will enjoy, than do stuff that annoys. I get the feeling that my R5 tires and lap times didn't go over well, but it's only a way of stressing the car more- I have the feeling that going to racing tires speeds everything up as far as throwing the car out of balance, so if you have a car that lacks composure and you throw it on the Ring on R5s at speed it'll tie itself in knots, backwards. On normal tires it might not have the force to throw itself too violently out of balance. I could be wrong...
 

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