- 571
- don't have one
- don't have one
Mad FinnTuners Co. - Finished 301010 with GT-Rdammerung - BIG THANKS everyone!
- Thread starter Greycap
- 3,787 comments
- 563,280 views
- Status
- 1,915
I think he means the banner.
- 736
@stidriver and MFT
Yeah, I really liked the Triumph as well. It's really stable through turns and just stable in general. You have to remember to downshift if it's getting sluggish through corners because it likes being pushed into the red zone. I also used NOS@default to give it a bit more grunt.
Clubman series is fun in this, but a bit easy (I got 120pts on 2nd(?) lineup). Perfect if you're sitting down to relax after work and don't want to expend too much effort. Or if, like me, you're prone to 4WD excursions and have trouble avoiding the AI psychopaths.
In fact that's a good description of the car:
I couldn't really fault it beyond the limitations of the initial car. Bloody good job.
Yeah, I really liked the Triumph as well. It's really stable through turns and just stable in general. You have to remember to downshift if it's getting sluggish through corners because it likes being pushed into the red zone. I also used NOS@default to give it a bit more grunt.
Clubman series is fun in this, but a bit easy (I got 120pts on 2nd(?) lineup). Perfect if you're sitting down to relax after work and don't want to expend too much effort. Or if, like me, you're prone to 4WD excursions and have trouble avoiding the AI psychopaths.
In fact that's a good description of the car:
... this tune is perfect.
I couldn't really fault it beyond the limitations of the initial car. Bloody good job.
Last edited:
- 5,970
- Finland
stidriver - And another! 👍 Not much to be said about that one... other than that it's probably no miracle that a car that light tends to float at high speeds. I still stay in my view that the half degree of camber may be a physics difference as it would change the handling to just about what slowman describes. We'll need someone to confirm it though.
Snowboard_kid - Yes.
PF - The description indeed is quite spot on. The car could be better as a racer if I had gone for the turbo tuning but I was trying to avoid killing the Alfa too badly and the more docile NA tune probably allows pushing it harder. More torque certainly wouldn't hurt though. I tried to improve on the good points of the car and probably succeeded judging by the reviews.
Snowboard_kid - Yes.
PF - The description indeed is quite spot on. The car could be better as a racer if I had gone for the turbo tuning but I was trying to avoid killing the Alfa too badly and the more docile NA tune probably allows pushing it harder. More torque certainly wouldn't hurt though. I tried to improve on the good points of the car and probably succeeded judging by the reviews.
- 576
- Boston, MA
Exactly!
Give Seren my best wishes. a short, short review of the R34per, perhaps to be expanded upon later as more information becomes apparent.
recently i shed my time honored self limitation of using only Sport tires in gt4. The reason i used to do this is because i love street cars, and in arcade you couldn't use race tires on a street tire car.
or could you?
Due to a recently discovered bug in the game a friend and i found, we now have whatever r type tires we want, most of the time, on any sort of car. we can't explain it, cannot find info on it, but we have it. this opened the door to many intense races and many many cars of higher power levels that were previously useless tire shredders on s-tires in multiplayer.
For the first time, this inspired me to come back to gtp years after an angry egress, and try MFT, my former superior adversary in garage thread tuning, and try some of their r-tire cars.
The first to hit the ground was the R34PER, a near 1000hp monster from one of the most popular marques to ever come from Japan.
Here's where Leo and Grey might have an issue, the tune calls for R3's, and usually in 1p mode i would use those tires, however, we do 2 Lap races in multiplayer, so i step up to R4's to maximize grip and still have something left for the last few turns of the race, so perhaps my estimation of the car is off a bit.
i will expand this part of my review in particular later on but im going to break it down into some very basic parts that i look at then move from there.
The car was mainly driven at Midfield, for reference.
Acceleration- Spectacular, it has 911hp and an advanced awd system, on the straight, there are few street cars that could even stay in sight. 9/10.
i will say, i thought at a glance that the gearing was rudimentary, perhaps simplified for an online posting? but i haven't taken a hard look at it yet.
Deceleration- Great, the car doesn't give up much here, however it's a heavy car with smallish tires for the class of car it's in. it has an oversteer tendancy on the brakes, which is useful in awd. i'd give the brakes a 8/10(for the class of car, not mft's work)
Turning-so much could be said here, driven by the book the cars ONLY weakness in the turn i feel, is that it doesn't stick quite enough on the throttle while turning, perhaps it's my personal style? or the near quadruple digit all wheel power? i prefer the car to grip and turn it's hardest at full throttle a'la amuse R1's, but that's a grossly different car. i wouldnt say it has an understeer tendancy, i'd say it's too neutral while exiting a turn.
NOW, driven NOT by the book, i.e when a turn doesn't go to plan and you have to use tricks to find a new line, the car is quite nimble and stable.
other notes- the car has a front toe setting of 2, personally i don't like toe, it's a big trade off in tire wear for what you get grip wise, i can either drive the car softer to conserve front tires for the second lap, or i can turn the toe down and drive a lil harder. my personal choice after many laps of having to drive softly was to turn the toe down to 1, it reduced front tire wear significantly, but then i consider myself a late braker as well so it may be a driving style issue and not a tune issue, in fact i'd say for sure it's more my thumb then their tune.
mft i don't have a car i'd like tuned this time, well i do, but rather, id like to talk to you regarding the difference in my tuning logic vs yours, i was rather shocked at some of the settings and yet they work, yet so do mine, in an effort to grow in my abilities i have some questions as to why you do what you do, how would you like to proceed?
recently i shed my time honored self limitation of using only Sport tires in gt4. The reason i used to do this is because i love street cars, and in arcade you couldn't use race tires on a street tire car.
or could you?
Due to a recently discovered bug in the game a friend and i found, we now have whatever r type tires we want, most of the time, on any sort of car. we can't explain it, cannot find info on it, but we have it. this opened the door to many intense races and many many cars of higher power levels that were previously useless tire shredders on s-tires in multiplayer.
For the first time, this inspired me to come back to gtp years after an angry egress, and try MFT, my former superior adversary in garage thread tuning, and try some of their r-tire cars.
The first to hit the ground was the R34PER, a near 1000hp monster from one of the most popular marques to ever come from Japan.
Here's where Leo and Grey might have an issue, the tune calls for R3's, and usually in 1p mode i would use those tires, however, we do 2 Lap races in multiplayer, so i step up to R4's to maximize grip and still have something left for the last few turns of the race, so perhaps my estimation of the car is off a bit.
i will expand this part of my review in particular later on but im going to break it down into some very basic parts that i look at then move from there.
The car was mainly driven at Midfield, for reference.
Acceleration- Spectacular, it has 911hp and an advanced awd system, on the straight, there are few street cars that could even stay in sight. 9/10.
i will say, i thought at a glance that the gearing was rudimentary, perhaps simplified for an online posting? but i haven't taken a hard look at it yet.
Deceleration- Great, the car doesn't give up much here, however it's a heavy car with smallish tires for the class of car it's in. it has an oversteer tendancy on the brakes, which is useful in awd. i'd give the brakes a 8/10(for the class of car, not mft's work)
Turning-so much could be said here, driven by the book the cars ONLY weakness in the turn i feel, is that it doesn't stick quite enough on the throttle while turning, perhaps it's my personal style? or the near quadruple digit all wheel power? i prefer the car to grip and turn it's hardest at full throttle a'la amuse R1's, but that's a grossly different car. i wouldnt say it has an understeer tendancy, i'd say it's too neutral while exiting a turn.
NOW, driven NOT by the book, i.e when a turn doesn't go to plan and you have to use tricks to find a new line, the car is quite nimble and stable.
other notes- the car has a front toe setting of 2, personally i don't like toe, it's a big trade off in tire wear for what you get grip wise, i can either drive the car softer to conserve front tires for the second lap, or i can turn the toe down and drive a lil harder. my personal choice after many laps of having to drive softly was to turn the toe down to 1, it reduced front tire wear significantly, but then i consider myself a late braker as well so it may be a driving style issue and not a tune issue, in fact i'd say for sure it's more my thumb then their tune.
mft i don't have a car i'd like tuned this time, well i do, but rather, id like to talk to you regarding the difference in my tuning logic vs yours, i was rather shocked at some of the settings and yet they work, yet so do mine, in an effort to grow in my abilities i have some questions as to why you do what you do, how would you like to proceed?
Leonidae
(Banned)
- 6,881
- GTP_Leonidae_MFT
You have to remember, it is an old ( really old) tune. Over the years of MFT both of us have been trying out a lot of things. And the toe setup.. well, I did that to make the car bit less skittish under braking and hard acceleration. Most people have loved it this far and praised it more and more, and sometimes I wonder if it's the car or the setup. As you said, it's mostly about preference, and at the time, this worked out nicely. It was far too fat to keep up with "The Carbon Creature", but fast enough to be fastest car I've made this far. If I'd tune this car again today, without a doubt it would be different, possibly even faster.
However, your small problem with the turning.. well, my personal style is to turn everything with throttle. As long as I can get the nose in, I know that I can apply full throttle and get ready for the next corner. You're more grip oriented driver, used to Amuse R1, which has nothing to say to the GT-R power or torque-wise. My Opera S2K would be right up your alley since all it has is grip and light weight. 486Z could be another chance, as well as X-fire and few others. but, if you want to do more comparisons between tunes or driving styles, we have to discuss about it in more detailed manner.
However, your small problem with the turning.. well, my personal style is to turn everything with throttle. As long as I can get the nose in, I know that I can apply full throttle and get ready for the next corner. You're more grip oriented driver, used to Amuse R1, which has nothing to say to the GT-R power or torque-wise. My Opera S2K would be right up your alley since all it has is grip and light weight. 486Z could be another chance, as well as X-fire and few others. but, if you want to do more comparisons between tunes or driving styles, we have to discuss about it in more detailed manner.
i would start by saying i used to be a drift driver primarily, that was before competition became the main way i interact with gt4, now im almost always only playing the game in arcade or setting up cars for 2p arcade so i'd say my skills sharpened up a bit and i began to emphasize how long i could hold the throttle open at the exit.
i prefer being the underpowered car in a match up, i'd rather drive super hard and catch someone in the turn, then drive soft and blaze past the opponent on the straight. i smirk at the beginning of a race when the opponent leaves me behind, because i'll see them by the exit of a few turns.
but most of all, as anyone does, i like setting blazing times which means the most of grip and power the driver can handle efficiently. so i do not necessarily want an underpowered car, i want a blazing fast balanced car that's at it's best on the throttle, per that goal i'm thinkin of a nsx-r, the widebody one, on r4's with 700~ hp. i think that car could pwn both in the straight and the turn.
the carbon beast you speak of, could this be the amuse carbon r? hmm, rwd skyline. im going to go check it out 👍
i prefer being the underpowered car in a match up, i'd rather drive super hard and catch someone in the turn, then drive soft and blaze past the opponent on the straight. i smirk at the beginning of a race when the opponent leaves me behind, because i'll see them by the exit of a few turns.
but most of all, as anyone does, i like setting blazing times which means the most of grip and power the driver can handle efficiently. so i do not necessarily want an underpowered car, i want a blazing fast balanced car that's at it's best on the throttle, per that goal i'm thinkin of a nsx-r, the widebody one, on r4's with 700~ hp. i think that car could pwn both in the straight and the turn.
the carbon beast you speak of, could this be the amuse carbon r? hmm, rwd skyline. im going to go check it out 👍
have one in my garage, however i suspect it has a cage, which i have heard can induce understeer. what do you know about that?
considering that the amuse carbon r is STILL fast on s3's, despite constantly burning the rubber off, i bet it's an absolute blast on r3/4's. then again, it's lost the heart of a gtr, but still.
i'm looking,, do you have a tune for the NSX-R widebody? i used to have a highspeed rung tune for it, car could hook 1000hp on S3's with a skilled throttle, always amazed me. at a lowr hp level i think it will absolutely fly.
considering that the amuse carbon r is STILL fast on s3's, despite constantly burning the rubber off, i bet it's an absolute blast on r3/4's. then again, it's lost the heart of a gtr, but still.
i'm looking,, do you have a tune for the NSX-R widebody? i used to have a highspeed rung tune for it, car could hook 1000hp on S3's with a skilled throttle, always amazed me. at a lowr hp level i think it will absolutely fly.
- 5,970
- Finland
The front toe has a lot to do with driving style at least according to my observations.
As said above Leonidae brakes in a straight line and turns the car on the throttle... and during the time we've been running this thing I've found out that most of his cars indeed are damn hard to turn under braking but obey every wish when the throttle is planted with a very pronounced change in the behaviour between the two phases. Whenever something goes wrong with a car he's made lifting off is almost guaranteed to bring the car back in the line.
On the other hand my own style incorporates a lot of trail braking deep into the corners, preferring very slight oversteer during entry and neutral to slight understeer during exit. I like to drive the car hard into the corner, right up to the apex, and then floor it when the straight is opening. The behaviour under braking doesn't differ too much from that under acceleration, I like the response remaining the same throughout the corner. When something goes wrong in a car of mine lifting off will probably just cause more trouble as the tail begins to come around.
Coincidentally, or probably not, almost every one of Leonidae's cars has negative toe-in at the front and most of mine have zero. I've tried reducing the toe on his cars and in a vast majority of the cases it helps with turn in but reduces grip after the initial turn - in other words, brings the behaviour closer to my preferences. Neither version is absolutely faster than the other, it's all about what the driver likes.
As said above Leonidae brakes in a straight line and turns the car on the throttle... and during the time we've been running this thing I've found out that most of his cars indeed are damn hard to turn under braking but obey every wish when the throttle is planted with a very pronounced change in the behaviour between the two phases. Whenever something goes wrong with a car he's made lifting off is almost guaranteed to bring the car back in the line.
On the other hand my own style incorporates a lot of trail braking deep into the corners, preferring very slight oversteer during entry and neutral to slight understeer during exit. I like to drive the car hard into the corner, right up to the apex, and then floor it when the straight is opening. The behaviour under braking doesn't differ too much from that under acceleration, I like the response remaining the same throughout the corner. When something goes wrong in a car of mine lifting off will probably just cause more trouble as the tail begins to come around.
Coincidentally, or probably not, almost every one of Leonidae's cars has negative toe-in at the front and most of mine have zero. I've tried reducing the toe on his cars and in a vast majority of the cases it helps with turn in but reduces grip after the initial turn - in other words, brings the behaviour closer to my preferences. Neither version is absolutely faster than the other, it's all about what the driver likes.
understood. now, do you guys take into account tire wear with your tunes? in single player there is usually not tire wear, however i have it on in arcade to make it more balanced an give lighter lower powered cars an advantage.
i noticed that the R34per had pretty typical skyline tire wear, hard on the fronts. on 2 laps w/r4's it still required management, hell even with the toe out of it, it still requires management, just much less.
personally whenever i tuned a skyline i ended up using a stiffer rear sway bar to decrease side load to the fronts, you guys didnt, can you give a reasoning here? infact now that i look at it i took the OPPOSITE approach on my tunes, raising the rear spring rates AND sway bars so that the rear would hold more of the weight of the car, you guys did 180* of that. both techniques improved the car though! thinking about it,on your tune the car would become lower with downforce due to your softer springs and higher ride height, i def prefer the more compliant suspension!
i noticed that the R34per had pretty typical skyline tire wear, hard on the fronts. on 2 laps w/r4's it still required management, hell even with the toe out of it, it still requires management, just much less.
personally whenever i tuned a skyline i ended up using a stiffer rear sway bar to decrease side load to the fronts, you guys didnt, can you give a reasoning here? infact now that i look at it i took the OPPOSITE approach on my tunes, raising the rear spring rates AND sway bars so that the rear would hold more of the weight of the car, you guys did 180* of that. both techniques improved the car though! thinking about it,on your tune the car would become lower with downforce due to your softer springs and higher ride height, i def prefer the more compliant suspension!
- 5,970
- Finland
Don't say "you guys", say Leonidae. 
It's his car, I didn't have a part in its development - as is the case in at least nine cars out of ten and it works the other way too. Every car is the work of its creator, with the exception of something like half a degree of camber or a click of damper in a few models. No big changes are ever made by "the other guy" to the original work.
The banner above takes you to my vision of R34 suspension tuning which is quite radically different from Grim R34per in just about every area (including the rear stabilizer) but as a whole it still works. Tyre wear isn't taken into account directly but experience has shown that if the handling is balanced there won't be big problems with it, and if there are - like in this case - there isn't much that could be done to help the situation other than crippling the handling in favour of tyre wear. And we won't do that because balanced tyre wear doesn't help much if you're struggling to keep it on the road thanks to the suspension settings.
It's his car, I didn't have a part in its development - as is the case in at least nine cars out of ten and it works the other way too. Every car is the work of its creator, with the exception of something like half a degree of camber or a click of damper in a few models. No big changes are ever made by "the other guy" to the original work.The banner above takes you to my vision of R34 suspension tuning which is quite radically different from Grim R34per in just about every area (including the rear stabilizer) but as a whole it still works. Tyre wear isn't taken into account directly but experience has shown that if the handling is balanced there won't be big problems with it, and if there are - like in this case - there isn't much that could be done to help the situation other than crippling the handling in favour of tyre wear. And we won't do that because balanced tyre wear doesn't help much if you're struggling to keep it on the road thanks to the suspension settings.
- 5,970
- Finland
You're welcome, but that really doesn't tell us too much... the fact that that you "tweaked the numbers" pretty much nullifies the point. It might handle just the same or nothing like the original, I've seen cars that are totally transformed by one click of rear stabilizer. The next time, how about reviewing the car as is - it's always a complete package, every part of the tune should be seen as a piece in the big puzzle which also includes the power figures, tyres, drivetrain and brakes - and receiving a custom tune as a reward for a job well done? Better for both sides that way. 👍
Leonidae
(Banned)
- 6,881
- GTP_Leonidae_MFT
Lotus Esprit Sport 900
900 bhp, 898 Nm, 1105 kg
Clickable for full size
900 bhp, 898 Nm, 1105 kg
Clickable for full size
Parts to fit:
Racing Exhaust
Racing Brakes
Brake Balance Controller
Port Polishing
Engine Balancing
Racing Chip
FC Transmission
Triple-plate Clutch
Racing Flywheel
FC LSD
Turbo Kit Stage 4
Racing Intercooler
FC Suspension
R3 Tyres
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Rigidity Increase (rollcage)
Oil Change
Rear Wing
New Wheels (optional)
Suspension
Spring Rate: 7.0 / 8.0
Ride Height: 110 / 125
Bound: 8 / 8
Rebound: 10 / 10
Camber: 2.0 / 2.0
Toe: 3 / 3
Stabilizers: 6 / 3
Brake Controller
Brakes: 7 / 5
Transmission
Note: First, reset the gearbox to the default settings, then set the Auto setting, and only then set the gear ratios.
Gear Ratios
1st: 2.575
2nd: 1.518
3rd: 1.099
4th: 0.830
5th: 0.650
Final Gear: 4.000
Autoset 15
LSD
Initial: 30
Acceleration: 15
Deceleration: 45
Downforce
Amount: 15 / 30
Driving Aids
ASM Oversteer: 0
ASM Understeer: 0
TCS: 0
I have to say, that this is one of the few cars that I'm afraid to drive. It has almost as much power as it has weight, it's mid-engined, makes great noise and it simply refused to get completely tamed. Or then I was so afraid that I couldn't drive it properly, or my half-dead G25 was giving me a hard time. Somehow, I managed to smooth out the worst spinning habits, but as I did that, I felt like I was killing this cars wild and ferocious spirit that was meant to run freely. I reigned it in to subdue my fear, to conquer the challenge, and as a result, I got the Lotus Esprit Sport 900. While it still might kill you faster than the notorious Blackbird if you happen to give her a fraction of second before correcting your error, it's still very solid car that is able to break 1'40's on GVS, almost challenging The Grim R34per. But my fear towards this car led me to tie it down, make it bit more useful. It's a great car.. and a great tragedy. Making this car left me disappointed and sad, since I know that it has more in it than what I could get out of it.
I did my best.. or worst.Oh yeah, be extremely careful every time you lift off from the throttle and go for the brakes. This car makes Blackbird look tame in the lift-off oversteer department.
- 369
66 Alfa Romeo Spider 1600RS Review
Brake and Trans:
I found the brake/controller setting are very good. The gearing for the transmission is also OK.
Suspension & diff:
The Alfa's chassis is very good overall with a slight oversteer in slow to medium speed turns. In high speed turns it's mostly neutral that can go into a slight understeer if you use to much steering. The differential setting for the Spider are good, but if you put the inside wheels on to the rumble strip the car can get wheel spin slow you down. I find it best to stay off inside curbs with the car.
This is a very nice set-up for the Alfa Romeo Spider that is fast for a car made in 1966. I liked driving the 1600RS alot and was running lap times in the 2'08.8xx with in at Grand Valley. MFT has one more keeper on it's hands.👍
Brake and Trans:
I found the brake/controller setting are very good. The gearing for the transmission is also OK.
Suspension & diff:
The Alfa's chassis is very good overall with a slight oversteer in slow to medium speed turns. In high speed turns it's mostly neutral that can go into a slight understeer if you use to much steering. The differential setting for the Spider are good, but if you put the inside wheels on to the rumble strip the car can get wheel spin slow you down. I find it best to stay off inside curbs with the car.
This is a very nice set-up for the Alfa Romeo Spider that is fast for a car made in 1966. I liked driving the 1600RS alot and was running lap times in the 2'08.8xx with in at Grand Valley. MFT has one more keeper on it's hands.👍
- 724
- PSN?!? What PSN?!?
ok fair enough. now with the MFT CR-X set-up it wasnt to my desire i should add the suspension was the only part of the tune i applied. i think the basis of the tune is wonderful and there wasnt any fault at all in it other than i being the driver and having a particularly aggressive driving manor
, so i opted to change a few settings around. now with out leaking to much as i am still working the bugs out on the suspension heres where it stands at. and you can compare the tune back to your Rex.BRAKES: 8/8
SUSPENSION:
spring rate: 6.0/3.0
ride height: 100/120
shock bound: 2/4
shock rebound: 4/8
camber angle: 2.0/1.5
toe angle: 1/-2
stabilizers: 6/3
i dont have your CR-X tune in front of me, but i'll check and see what numbers havent been altered compared to what i have here. i was so impressed with the end result i created a new set-up and implemented it on an EG SiR. the numbers are completely different and that's SRinc. new FF prototype suspension being tested and tracked i'll let you kno how it turns out...
Leonidae
(Banned)
- 6,881
- GTP_Leonidae_MFT
And this weekend, MFT will look back into the past, and bring back two cars that have shaped the automotive history. One is bit more motorsport oriented than the other, Both have great heritage backing them up.. But which one is faster when they're tuned to the limits of adhesion? Old alliance between the pure-blooded warriors will be reborn from the ashes of ancient Empire and short-lived Utopia..
- 5,970
- Finland
Recent testing runs have revealed that while there will be two quite different approaches to a similar goal the differences in the end are remarkably small. Will the old school NA tune with superior cornering characteristics win, or will it be destroyed by the fierce grunt of the turbo technology relying on sheer power to do the trick? Time will tell.
Leonidae
(Banned)
- 6,881
- GTP_Leonidae_MFT
BMW 2002 TTII
367 bhp, 444 Nm, 950 kg
Clickable for full size
367 bhp, 444 Nm, 950 kg
Clickable for full size
Parts to fit:
Racing Exhaust
Racing Brakes
Brake Balance Controller
Port Polishing
Engine Balancing
Racing Chip
FC Transmission
Triple-plate Clutch
Racing Flywheel
FC LSD
Carbon Driveshaft
Turbo Kit Stage 3
Racing Intercooler
FC Suspension
S3 Tyres
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Rigidity Increase (rollcage)
Oil Change
New Wheels (BBS)
Suspension
Spring Rate: 5.0 / 4.0
Ride Height: 120 / 140
Bound: 7 / 7
Rebound: 10 / 10
Camber: 2.0 / 2.2
Toe: -2 / -2
Stabilizers: 2 / 6
Brake Controller
Brakes: 3 / 12
Transmission
Note: First, reset the gearbox to the default settings, then set the Auto setting, and only then set the gear ratios.
Gear Ratios
1st: 2.689
2nd: 1.860
3rd: 1.400
4th: 1.113
5th: 0.926
6th: 0.782
Final Gear: 3.360
Autoset 13
LSD
Initial: 25
Acceleration: 15
Deceleration: 5
Driving Aids
ASM Oversteer: 0
ASM Understeer: 0
TCS: 0
The 2002 Turbo was launched at the 1973 Frankfurt Motor Show. BMW's first production turbo, it produced 170 hp (127 kW) at 5,800 rpm, with 240 N·m (180 lb·ft) of torque. This small, light and agile coupe was top notch performer in its class, and nowadays its highly desired collectible. But there has been long-living rumors about prototype model, that was slotted up and above the standard Turbo. A way higher above to be exact. Back in the day, there were whispers about a real monster of a car. It would had developed over 300bhp out of 2-liter turbo engine that was in the standard Turbo, massaged out by precision engineering. The car would also had some inspiration from the recently introduced CSL-model, sporting BBS rims and less weight, accompanied with loud motorsport-derived transmission and a truly spartan interior. Top speed above 160mph was also mentioned, before this monster was deemed too dangerous and expensive for the road. However, the rumors were true, and recently, one former engineer of BMW M-Sport division brought this beauty to MFT for restoration to its former glory. Faded paint was resprayed, chipped and corroded rims replaced with fresh ones, engine and chassis refreshed and old plexi-glass windows, turned yellow by time, were replaced with fresh items. As a sign of gratitude for the job well done, the old engineer took us for a spin. And I can't say anything more, than this monster loves to live at the limits of adhesion, and hates slowpoke traffic of modern cities. This turbocharged monster of a car is better known as BMW 2002 TTII, and as such, it firmly claims its place on MFT's wall of honor.
- Status
