Deep Forest Tunery [CLOSED]

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Test Spec (no chassis reinforcement) w/ camber = 1:12.924"
Test Spec (chassis reinforcement) w/ no camber = 1:12.798"
...
Of course, what I used for the camber is based on the aero and the weigth. If you took 0/20, you have to recalculate everything.

Anyway, 0/x isn't working great with that formula. I had better results with some other cars.
 
Test Scenarios and Recorded Observations
  1. Stock Clutch; Stock Flywheel; LSD @ 12/30/16; Race Soft
    • Smooth and consistent feel; but measurably lower average lap times. (1:15")
  2. Stock Clutch; Semi-Race Flywheel; LSD @ 12/30/16; Race Soft
    • Snappy, prone to sudden veering, jerking, corner spin on cold Race Softs but good after first lap. (1:13.5")
  3. Stock Clutch; Stock Flywheel; LSD @ 12/50/16; Race Soft
    • Runs wide in corners, snagging a real danger. Lurching present upon full throttle or release from full throttle. (1:14")
  4. Stock Clutch; Semi-Race Flywheel; LSD @ 12/50/16; Race Soft
    • Capable of power oversteer to counteract snagging; better performing than scenario 3. (1:13.5")
  5. Single Plate; Stock Flywheel; LSD @ 12/30/16; Race Soft
    • Smooth and consistent feel; slight wheelie on crest. (1:13.5")
  6. Single Plate; Semi-Race Flywheel; LSD @ 12/30/16; Race Soft
    • Pops wheelies at crest; clutch engagement snap evident. (1:14")
  7. Single Plate; Stock Flywheel; LSD @ 12/50/16; Race Soft
    • Pops wheelies at crest; smoother cornering than scenario 6; runs wider in turns; milder clutch engagement. (1:13.5")
  8. Single Plate; Semi-Race Flywheel; LSD @ 12/50/16; Race Soft
    • Smooth and consistent; a touch of barreling present; great off the line grid start first lap time, three consecutive 1:13" laps ran. (1:13")
  9. Twin Plate; Stock Flywheel; LSD @ 12/30/16; Race Soft
    • Smooth; but clutch engagement more noticeable over single plate. (1:13.5")
  10. Twin Plate; Semi-Race Flywheel; LSD @ 12/30/16; Race Soft
    • Smooth acceleration; strong desire to wheelie crest; prone to sudden snaps; erratic in corner radius diameters - snagging; jerking over irregularities on track surface; lurching evident. (1:14")
  11. Twin Plate; Stock Flywheel; LSD @ 12/50/16; Race Soft
    • Smooth and consistent feel; but measurably lower lap time. (1:14.5")
  12. Twin Plate; Semi-Race Flywheel; LSD @ 12/50/16; Race Soft
    • Smooth; some wheelies at crest; erratic snapping. (1:14")
  13. Stock Clutch; Sport Flywheel; LSD @ 12/30/16; Race Soft
    • Smooth and consistent, clean laps; respectable lap times. (1:12.8")
  14. Stock Clutch; Sport Flywheel; LSD @ 12/50/16; Race Soft
    • Smooth and consistent, clean laps; runs a tad bit wider in corners, but power oversteer to counter. Corner entry deceleration is smooth, full throttle exit smooth. (1:12.9")
  15. Single Plate; Sport Flywheel; LSD @ 12/30/16; Race Soft
    • Smooth for the most part; a bit of wheelie; a small bit of snapping. (1:12.8")
  16. Single Plate; Sport Flywheel; LSD @ 12/50/16; Race Soft
    • Smooth and consistent, clean laps; good torque to friction balance; perfect power oversteer; excellent corner entry deceleration and full throttle exits are smooth. (1:12.5")
  17. Twin Plate; Sport Flywheel; LSD @ 12/30/16; Race Soft
    • Smooth and consistent, clean laps; clutch engagement is more noticeable at disengage/engage at high speeds; some gentle veering is present. (1:12.8")
  18. Twin Plate; Sport Flywheel; LSD @ 12/50/16; Race Soft
    • Smooth and consistent, clean laps; has the quickest first lap time from grid start of the tested combinations; runs consistently in the low 1:13's"; full throttle works most of track but occasionally need to back off, recovery is quick. (1:13.1")

Conclusions and Summary

February 2, 2011 - I have completed the additional testing scenarios for Sports flywheel and added them above (13-18). The results from those were quite interesting, the test spec car handled exceptionally well on all configurations will the Sports flywheel and put up respectable lap times during each scenario, several new lap records were made.

The main culprit of the initial wild handling of this car can be solely attributed to the Semi-Race flywheel. The high-idle spin of the flywheel appears to the source of the sudden and violent reactions this car has to clutch engagements. While some of this behavior can be mitigated by clutch selection and use of an high acceleration value on the LSD, results consistently showed that the Sports flywheel produced better lap times and far better handling.

The clutch is almost a non-factor on this car, there were a few distinct differences but the driving was consistent among scenarios 14, 16, and 18 that I repeated each for three sets of five laps just to be sure the differences were reproducible and yet minimal. The stock clutch allowed the driver to freely use full throttle for almost the entirety of the race course; it put up a respectable 1:12.8" lap time with LSD acceleration at 30, but also another at 1:12.9" with LSD acceleration at 50.

The single plate clutch displayed a slightly more apparent disengagement and re-engagement at high rpm's, but impact on handling was minimal. A small tendency towards occasional snapping was present when used with an LSD acceleration of 30, but mitigated by setting the value to 50. The single plate when paired with the Sports flywheel and an LSD acceleration of 50 proved itself to be a consistent performer, repeatedly dishing out laps in the low 1:13's and setting an highly impressive 1:12.479" best lap time (best of all tested scenarios so far). Single plate clutch proved itself as the best clutch option for this particular car.

That is not to say that the twin plate clutch did not earn an honorable mention, it displayed it's own unique characteristics. The clutch disengagement to re-engagement was a bit stronger than on the single plate, but did not prove overly detrimental to handling when paired with a Sports flywheel as it did when paired with the Semi-Race flywheel. The slight bit of veering that was produced was mitigated by raising LSD acceleration to 50. Wheelies were only slightly noticeable at crests when paired with the Sports flywheel. Lap times were consistent, typically running in the low 1:13's" and a best lap of 1:21.8" was set with LSD acceleration at 30. The best lap time from stationary grid start was set at 1:19.618" when using an LSD acceleration of 50, making this the best first lap option, this scenario repeatedly demonstrated consecutive laps in the low 1:13's but could not make it under the 1:12.999" benchmark (15 laps were ran), but for lap consistency this combination proved itself truly unique.

The last variable of the drivetrain optimization testing scenarios also seems to be a critical element. LSD acceleration repeatedly proved itself to be a valuable tool in mitigating unwanted snapping and veering associated with use of upgraded clutches and flywheels. While only two values were used for our testing purposes, testing clearly indicated that higher LSD acceleration settings tend to fair better in overall stability of the drivetrain, as well as produce higher lap times. There were some cases where the value being set too high could cause the car to run wide in corners, and this was most noticeable when paired with the stock flywheel, when paired with the Sports flywheel a well balanced and natural amount of power oversteer made sharp cornering possible. Under several of these scenarios using LSD acceleration of 50, I was not dropping below 127MPH at the apex of the last downhill bend to the straight away finish on Deep Forest Raceway without touching grass. Another unusual aspect of having LSD acceleration set to 50 was that straight line deceleration appeared to be much greater than with the value set to 30, this could just be a placebo effect, but I will do more testing to try and verify this aspect of it; upon passing the apex, it also made full throttle acceleration out of the hairpins very smooth and linear.

Based on the results I have seen already, I would not hesitate to crown test scenario 16 as the ultimate setup. The match of single clutch, sport flywheel, a LSD acceleration at 50 proved itself repeatedly with lap times and offered unrivaled handling during cornering, braking, and acceleration.

I will continue to test these setups further now that I have identified the top contenders using Race Softs; the next phase will be to test the finalists on Sport Softs.

Revisiting my theory on clutching being present in the simulation of drivetrain performance, my initial suspicion appears to be reaffirmed. My theory would be that the clutch shift interval (CSi) is present, and that each clutch upgrade fills this duration with a wider range of friction values.

Forgive the crudity of the following diagram;

---------------CSi-------------------------
|rrooyy----------stock------------yyoorr|
|rrroooyy-----single-plate------yyooorrr|
|rrrrooooyy---twin-plate-----yyoooorrrr|
--------------------------------------------

I'm trying to illustrate by r for red and o for orange and y for yellow is the friction exercised by the clutch and that for each upgrade the friction spectrum is wider and longer; and thus amplification of torque transference during periods of slip occurs.

If anyone proficient in visual diagram creation would like to assist with graphics, you can offer to make me illustrations of a red to yellow to white to yellow to red gradient color spectrum in three rectangular length boxes, varying the gradient according the example above to represent each clutch model's theoretical impact on handling.

Main article updated with new testing scenarios 13-18 using the Sports flywheel and my conclusions based upon testing all available combinations on Race Softs.

The ultimate drivetrain for the Lotus Elise 111R is the Single Plate Clutch, with a Sports Flywheel, and Customizable Limited Slip Differential with an acceleration value of 50.

Lap times on new testing scenarios are with the same Test Spec car suspension and zeroed camber and toe settings as the first group; not from any of the discussions me and blueshift were having above.
 
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Don't you think the sport clutch is heavier, so, it got more inertia so it also slow down slower (hence the slow shifting time : the clutch have to slow down rpm from the engine until it gets to the begining of next gear).

It's a shame we have no test tracks to measure braking power : I'm sure sports is better to brake too because it should have an effect on engine brake too (ie hidden bonus on "more decel"), but without having the DGL locking too fast with high decel (so you don't push while braking).

=> you have more torque at decel...

It's a great find, budious.
 
I think it's a shame what PD did to the RM version of this car, equipped with Semi-Race Flywheel and no way to down spec it. I had one in the garage but rarely used it until now, put it out on the track and noticed the same inconsistent lap times I had been getting during the tests with Semi-Race flywheel on the non-RM version. So I went with the high acceleration workaround with LSD, the combination of the extra aero downforce helps to keep it under wraps also, but combined the two help to make the car somewhat more manageable and drive like it's non-modded sibling. Now I'm running back to back laps with the RM all within 0.5s, before it was more like 2.0s on average cause of the random veering and snapping in it.
 
Hey firstly I appreciate your work and findings! I enjoyed the read. I just had a question. Out of curiosity is there any reason you use the AT vs MT? I saw the times you posted and many of them said with AT. Thanks!
 
I play with a pad, basically I wouldn't feel like I'm really stick shifting unless I got a clutch pedal, like using a MT with paddle shifting. I get some cash put aside in a few months and GT5 gets patched up proper I get a wheel and pedals then let the fun begin. AT is more to eliminate driver error from the equation as far as tuning goes, occasionally I might use MT to race it when it's finished, but mostly not.
 
Ah ok I figured it must be for consitency since the shift points would always be the same(I assume). I was playing with the pad, and used the MT I liked it because it allows you to stretch out the gears which can come in handy. I bought a DFGT and its a world of difference! I have a G27 coming on the way then the DFGT will be returned lol. Look on craigslist for the DFGT you can snag it for $50 and it will exponentially increase your enjoyment in the game!
With the pad I always found throttle control difficult.
 
Last night I started running your 111R tune and it is very good. I am having a good time trying the different setups to get near your 1:12.500. I am hitting 1:13.200'2 consistantly and should get to your times soon. I look forward to trying your other tunes. Thanks Budius.
 
Last night I started running your 111R tune and it is very good. I am having a good time trying the different setups to get near your 1:12.500. I am hitting 1:13.200'2 consistantly and should get to your times soon. I look forward to trying your other tunes. Thanks Budius.

Glad somebody likes it, was starting to think it was just me. :scared:
 
Great info and tune guys. been running constant 1:13's but with only 303hp. I imagine once broken in i will make the extra second but nowhere near it at the moment.
 
is your test car fitted with stage 3 engine tune?? as its not on the specs.

Yes, 319 HP for test spec car in drivetrain optimization test. Thanks for pointing that out, I added it back to the specs. I copied pasted and missed it.
 
As i mentioned, my lotus has 303hp, the diff is set to 12 30 16. with sp clutch and standard fly wheel, the camber and toe all set at 0, with AT and duelshock i managed a 1:13.144 on deep forest.
Two questions:-
1. will lowering the brake balance smooth out the ferocity of the brakes allowing for quicker lap times or will it upset the suspension balance.
2. I can see the point when hot lapping but is the extra 16hp really worth the half a second, as when racing very few drivers consistantly lap the same time perfectly, mistakes, driving errors all happen.
great info by the way, you have soent a lot of time on this. much appreciated.
 
I imagine if you just purchased it you need to break in the engine for a while then change the oil to see the full 319HP. My lap times were pad and automatic shifting, your times may vary by input and driving skill, that's why I provided them only by the definition of a performance benchmark... you should see some similar time gain between your laps with the variable settings which were tested, whether or not you are seconds faster or slower than me on average. It's all relative and you can compare you own numbers and find the same gaps.
 
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"but I'll be honest, it's no competition for any of the GT300 cars that have been run on dirty oil for two weeks to get them into the HP bracket."

Hey, Budious. Thanks for all of your hard work, bro. 👍 I find it VERY interesting. In your above quote, you implied that dirty oil is beneficial and I recall reading that somewhere else a while back. Can you please elaborate on this? Does it provide a fatter powerband or something?
 
Dirty oil is the process by which there are people who take cars that might otherwise be 340HP if they were properly maintained, and over the course of many thousands of miles, probably driven by Bob when they are doing other things, can drag the car down under 295HP... which if changing oil was completely realistic at all, then not changing it should result in sludge and destroying your engine! Fix this BS Kaz...

If the car was already capable of 295 if properly maintained, and you did the same, then you could fit more parts on it for peak power and torque at higher RPMs which gives you an advantage on the track. The 330-340HP GT300 cars already have very high RPM range engines so even at 295HP compared to an average street tune they have much more gear crunching potential.
 
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I can see your point about "dirty oil" tomfoolery, but i can't see how this can be stopped. Unless the oil change is removed altogether, at what point will the engine become full of sludge and be destroyed and require a rebuild. This will always be exploited by someone which is a shame.
 
I can see your point about "dirty oil" tomfoolery, but i can't see how this can be stopped. Unless the oil change is removed altogether, at what point will the engine become full of sludge and be destroyed and require a rebuild. This will always be exploited by someone which is a shame.

The patch coming out tomorrow will be reimplementing the Performance Points model used in GT5 Prologue. It's unclear whether this will affect seasonal events or is purely for online racing restrictions. The dirty oil thing could be addressed simply by making the car more symptomatic of engine failure when driving it, not necessarily actually having to destroy it literally. I'd just like for it to sputter and smoke and only go 50 MPH to stop the BS...
 
Thinking about this it could also be implamented via milage from the last oil change. most modern cars require a change around 10,000 miles on average. so a relative in game milage model could be made.
hopefully the performance points update will be across the board. Also a way to save more than one tune to a car would be most welcome.
 
Thinking about this it could also be implamented via milage from the last oil change. most modern cars require a change around 10,000 miles on average. so a relative in game milage model could be made.
hopefully the performance points update will be across the board. Also a way to save more than one tune to a car would be most welcome.

10,000 miles? It might be possible on synthetics but I'm still gonna change it at least every 5,000; not to mention any car used for racing is subject to far more stress and needs it replaced more like every 500 miles.
 
Kinda off topic but just wanted to ask if you made progress on the Veyron. I've had a helluva night trying to tame the understeer on that thing...
 
I switch between so many cars... I don't even think I've worked on most of my Works in Progress... listed cars since I put them on the list... I have all new works in progress, attention deficit disorder ftw! :P

I'm still tweaking on my methodology and process which is why I haven't posted more cars recently, I'll probably release a whole bunch at once when I figure out everything in fine detail and see where this new patch gets us on custom gearing. I been tuning my Camaro Z28 RM '69 for two weeks now and have over 3000 miles on it, still looking for that last 1% of performance I might squeeze out of it.
 
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Hi Budious, the prospect of taking some vintage Italian metal (miraculously it isn't full of rust!) around some twisty forest roads was too good to pass up. So here's a

Lamborghini Countach LP400 '74 Review
Conducted using sixaxis controller on Region 4 PS3, update 1.06.

PARTS ONLY (default settings)
This car loves to yaw! Turn the wheel to oversteer, press the brake to oversteer, press the throttle to oversteer!! In braking, the rear gently slides out (which is quite controllable), but once on the throttle the rear has a mind of it's own. There's no wheelspin, just power oversteer; it's very twitchy and even more unpredictable.

Tyres are definitely a limiting factor, it would be much easier and faster with better rubber. Very difficult to tighten line mid-corner: your options are either lift-off oversteer or power oversteer! Deep Forest lap time 1:24.7.

Deep Forest Tunery Settings

Minimal changes to the settings (just removing the rear toe-in and loosening the diff), but they sure pay off! The basic handling character is still an Italian Drift Demon, but now the rear is far more predictable. Great stuff!! Kudos for not just bolting on the stickiest tyres you could find.

Lap time 1:23.4. The 1.3 second improvement is huge considering the small changes made to the setup. Absolute grip levels seem unchanged, I think the extra speed is purely because driver can confidently push it closer to the limit.
 
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Lamborghini Countach LP400 '74 Review

I only spec'd that car that way because it was originally for a seasonal time trial which was restricted on weight, HP, and Sport Medium tires only... and I did not spend all that much time on it. I've been meaning to go back and clean up the spec, but just haven't gotten around to it... thanks for the interest anyways.

However, given it's minimum spec, like you say, runs pretty good. I grind it on European Championship - Deep Forest for credits on occasion.
 
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