viperbeatsvette
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- Gold Coast/QLD
- viperbeatsvette
- im not a fanboy
im not trying to steal slumps thunder, but sometimes different wording can make something easier to understand.
Okay, so to start this I should cover some of the basics in ¼ mile drag racing.
It is NOT all about top speed. It is about average speed and reaction time.
When tuning for the ¼ mile there are a few major and minor factors that should be taken into thought. The major factors include: Maintaining the powerband, finding the right medium between spin and bog for launch (will explain later), and shifting at the right time.
Tuning aspects for AWD differ majorly from RWD which also majorly differs from FWD. I personally do not have a great deal in FWD tuning but I can give some assistance.
Suspension:
key:
red = awd
blue = rwd
green = fwd
you want to maximise launch potential as this sets the AWD ahead from its competitors. To do this with suspension you need to have a low front and higher back.
Spring rates can differ per car but a general rule of thumb is to have between 10 and 15 on the front and 11 and 16 on the back. As I have said before this is a general rule of thumb. Many people have successful unorthodox tunes.
Dampers don’t have a world of difference in drag racing, but my general rule for AWDs in dampers is to have 10 on the front, 6 on the back.
antiroll bars have very little effect on drag cars in GT5 and therefore just leave them as is.there’s more than one way to skin this cat. You can either tune for best possible launch, or you can tune for best possible acceleration. Each car differs greatly. Normally a low front and high rear will give you exceptional launch, where as a slightly higher front can increase top end acceleration with a slight lack in launch compared to the low front. Some cars naturally launch better than others and some accelerate faster than others so it’s really about finding the right balance for the car. (different tensions will be added later)
for front wheel drives you want to minimise loss of frontal traction. This has to be in affect minimising rear crouch. Commonly this means low front and high back, springs low at front and high at back.
Transmission:
Transmission is possibly the most complex and important part to a good drag tune. There are almost infinite ways to customise this tool to create fast tunes.
At first when I learnt about ¼ mile drag racing id just change my top speed with the slider to 15mph higher than I would hit at the end of the strip. This was to comfortably hit te range whilst not losing too much acceleration. I still use this technique often, but adjust each individual gear.
To tune a transmission properly you need to have a look at the power-band graph in the settings. You want to adjust gears accordingly.
Red: cars with longer powerbands (in the revs range)
blue: cars with shorter powerbands (within rev range) (ie a car that maxes hp at 7k rpm but can hit 9k)
bold: 4wd
italic:fwd
normal:rwd
Transmission flipping: (insert link explaining)
a 4wd in most cases will launch off first gear. So that means in many cases you can run in auto.
As I mentioned before you want to add 15mph to the trap speed as your max.
so when you flip transmission, raise 6th gear to fully right on the bar, and then make the top speed in the top right corer 15 above your trap speed.
After these steps do the following.
1st gear, fully left on the bar
2nd gear leave as is
3rd gear, ¾ to the right
4th and 5th gear fully right
this is only a rule of thumb, sometimes a 4wd car will bog under these conditions and 1st would need to be shortened slightly (moved to the right).
to first understand what gear is needed to launch in a rwd you have to look at the power to weight ratio and power band. If the car is vtec like the amuse s2000 gt1 turbo and the lower revs have minimal power use first. If the car has a power to weight ratio of 580hp per tonne (1000kg) or 0.58 then normally it will be a second gear launcher.
In second gear launching cars the following steps must be taken.
firstly flip the transmission and raise 6 fully right and set the top speed approximately 15mph over trap speed.
After doing so put 1st gear fully right, 2nd fully left, now put 4th and 5th fully right. Once this is done adjust 3rd to make 4 5 6 all line up perfectly with their minimum points seen on the graph. If you cannot do this drop 4 and 5 a little bit until you find this line up.
Blue: a similar technique is required here. But what you need to do is work out the ratio between peak power and redline. IE if the peak is at 6k and the redline is 7k. divide 7 by 6 and times that number by the trap speed + 15mph. for gear shifting with these cars shift between 200 and 600 rpm past the peak power (depending on how the power drops afterwards).
most cars will have a 1st gear launch with a quick shift to second to avoid excessive spinning. I normally set my transmission similar to a 4wd but with a higher max speed (like 180mph) and normally only run to gear 5 by the end of the ¼.
Okay, so to start this I should cover some of the basics in ¼ mile drag racing.
It is NOT all about top speed. It is about average speed and reaction time.
When tuning for the ¼ mile there are a few major and minor factors that should be taken into thought. The major factors include: Maintaining the powerband, finding the right medium between spin and bog for launch (will explain later), and shifting at the right time.
Tuning aspects for AWD differ majorly from RWD which also majorly differs from FWD. I personally do not have a great deal in FWD tuning but I can give some assistance.
Suspension:
key:
red = awd
blue = rwd
green = fwd
you want to maximise launch potential as this sets the AWD ahead from its competitors. To do this with suspension you need to have a low front and higher back.
Spring rates can differ per car but a general rule of thumb is to have between 10 and 15 on the front and 11 and 16 on the back. As I have said before this is a general rule of thumb. Many people have successful unorthodox tunes.
Dampers don’t have a world of difference in drag racing, but my general rule for AWDs in dampers is to have 10 on the front, 6 on the back.
antiroll bars have very little effect on drag cars in GT5 and therefore just leave them as is.there’s more than one way to skin this cat. You can either tune for best possible launch, or you can tune for best possible acceleration. Each car differs greatly. Normally a low front and high rear will give you exceptional launch, where as a slightly higher front can increase top end acceleration with a slight lack in launch compared to the low front. Some cars naturally launch better than others and some accelerate faster than others so it’s really about finding the right balance for the car. (different tensions will be added later)
for front wheel drives you want to minimise loss of frontal traction. This has to be in affect minimising rear crouch. Commonly this means low front and high back, springs low at front and high at back.
Transmission:
Transmission is possibly the most complex and important part to a good drag tune. There are almost infinite ways to customise this tool to create fast tunes.
At first when I learnt about ¼ mile drag racing id just change my top speed with the slider to 15mph higher than I would hit at the end of the strip. This was to comfortably hit te range whilst not losing too much acceleration. I still use this technique often, but adjust each individual gear.
To tune a transmission properly you need to have a look at the power-band graph in the settings. You want to adjust gears accordingly.
Red: cars with longer powerbands (in the revs range)
blue: cars with shorter powerbands (within rev range) (ie a car that maxes hp at 7k rpm but can hit 9k)
bold: 4wd
italic:fwd
normal:rwd
Transmission flipping: (insert link explaining)
a 4wd in most cases will launch off first gear. So that means in many cases you can run in auto.
As I mentioned before you want to add 15mph to the trap speed as your max.
so when you flip transmission, raise 6th gear to fully right on the bar, and then make the top speed in the top right corer 15 above your trap speed.
After these steps do the following.
1st gear, fully left on the bar
2nd gear leave as is
3rd gear, ¾ to the right
4th and 5th gear fully right
this is only a rule of thumb, sometimes a 4wd car will bog under these conditions and 1st would need to be shortened slightly (moved to the right).
to first understand what gear is needed to launch in a rwd you have to look at the power to weight ratio and power band. If the car is vtec like the amuse s2000 gt1 turbo and the lower revs have minimal power use first. If the car has a power to weight ratio of 580hp per tonne (1000kg) or 0.58 then normally it will be a second gear launcher.
In second gear launching cars the following steps must be taken.
firstly flip the transmission and raise 6 fully right and set the top speed approximately 15mph over trap speed.
After doing so put 1st gear fully right, 2nd fully left, now put 4th and 5th fully right. Once this is done adjust 3rd to make 4 5 6 all line up perfectly with their minimum points seen on the graph. If you cannot do this drop 4 and 5 a little bit until you find this line up.
Blue: a similar technique is required here. But what you need to do is work out the ratio between peak power and redline. IE if the peak is at 6k and the redline is 7k. divide 7 by 6 and times that number by the trap speed + 15mph. for gear shifting with these cars shift between 200 and 600 rpm past the peak power (depending on how the power drops afterwards).
most cars will have a 1st gear launch with a quick shift to second to avoid excessive spinning. I normally set my transmission similar to a 4wd but with a higher max speed (like 180mph) and normally only run to gear 5 by the end of the ¼.
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more to come soon 👍
