Photo Finish Racing - 2.10 How-To Updates/Amendments

  • Thread starter CSLACR
  • 550 comments
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CSLACR
Engine: RPM adders give the most HP per PP, so I usually start with them. On some cars, high rpm turbos make for a great HP-PP gain as well. I only use engine stages for "maxed out" cars and when needed to reach a PP amount.
On some smaller engines, while the HP will increase more from RPM adders, the weakening of the already-poor power band is too much, and performance suffers. There are engine that yield better acceleration at a given PP using the non rpm adders to help the power band.
Low rpm turbos can be a good option for PP racing is some cases, I'm not sure mid rpm turbos are ever a good idea for PP racing though, superchargers rarely. (Assuming other parts can be used instead)
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Was browsing through your super nice guide and got a little hung up on this part. Apparently I've just never noticed before that the parts I'm adding are changing the redline of my engine. I know that generally when I add a turbo I will see a bump in certain parts of the power graph depending which I'm using, but which parts are going to shift my redline? I assume that certain parts will add more than others. Do you have a preference for which you will add first if you are trying to fit into a PP limit? If I can only add a few PP is cat and air filter better than race exhaust?
 
DigitalBaka
Was browsing through your super nice guide and got a little hung up on this part. Apparently I've just never noticed before that the parts I'm adding are changing the redline of my engine. I know that generally when I add a turbo I will see a bump in certain parts of the power graph depending which I'm using, but which parts are going to shift my redline? I assume that certain parts will add more than others. Do you have a preference for which you will add first if you are trying to fit into a PP limit? If I can only add a few PP is cat and air filter better than race exhaust?
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It's basically a mix and match game. Try all of them, and see what gives the most power and/or which wins at the drag strip. I still fiddle with every car to find what works best, I just can't list exact settings without breaking in the car first, which I never want to do before tuning. :lol:
There are always other factors, for example, the mods that don't add rpm give a more usable power band, so they can be beneficial on low-torque motors.

List -
RPM adders:
Exhaust - (for which they actually mean muffler and/or cat-back)
Catalytic converter
Engine stages
ECU

Generally (9 times of 10)
Exhaust is 100 rpm per level, meaning sports is a 100 rpm increase, semi-racing 200, full racing 300 rpm added.
Catalytic converter 100 rpm added.
Engine stage 100 rpm per stage.
ECU is generally 200, but can be 100 or 300, just usually 200 rpm added. (This is the one most commonly different)

Turbos/superchargers, intake mods, and the exhaust manifold do not add rpm.


What happens is when you add the rpm adders, it raises the entire powerband, raising the powerband means the engine revs higher, and that means less torque per horsepower. Since the PP system hates torque, you want as little as possible on any and every PP tune you drive for maximum speed.
 
I did a car from 2.73's to 3.73's. It went from not spinning the tires of the line to loads of TQ and tire spin.

It's all a lever. Weight of the gear set will help but it's so minute. The real physics is the lever.
 
OwensRacing
I did a car from 2.73's to 3.73's. It went from not spinning the tires of the line to loads of TQ and tire spin.

It's all a lever. Weight of the gear set will help but it's so minute. The real physics is the lever.
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I'm not saying I agree or disagree, but when you put 373 on a 273, you changed first gear from reaching 50mph (guessing an f-body maybe?) to only reaching (guesstimate) 40mph.
So off the line your engine is running higher RPM's than it was before, so it doesn't compare the difference of the setups, just that quicker overall gearing is quicker.

Final 273 - first gear 3.730
Vs.
Final 373 - first gear 2.730
This way the actual distance/speed (overall gearing) the car would reach in each gear would be the same.

I'm not saying it would be faster in the real world, gearing a car this way, I'm just saying it might be. I've never seen them compared to know though. :(
 
CSLACR
I'm not saying I agree or disagree, but when you put 373 on a 273, you changed first gear from reaching 50mph (guessing an f-body maybe?) to only reaching (guesstimate) 40mph.
So off the line your engine is running higher RPM's than it was before, so it doesn't compare the difference of the setups, just that quicker overall gearing is quicker.

Final 273 - first gear 3.730
Vs.
Final 373 - first gear 2.730
This way the actual distance/speed (overall gearing) the car would reach in each gear would be the same.

I'm not saying it would be faster in the real world, gearing a car this way, I'm just saying it might be. I've never seen them compared to know though. :(
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Now see I don't know about the logic there.

Might be something in a TQ converter that answers this. Figure these can multiply TQ. They do so before the trans and final gear.

I would assume any time to can ratio up. Increasing the lever before the final ratio the better.

Honestly call John Shepherd from Shepherd Transmissions. He installed "The Ultimate Ratio" gear set in my Evo's trans. I do believe first is longer. Outside that I have no clue other then I trust him. LoL. (actually I'm going to chase these ratios down and set up a GT5 Evo trans similar)


Dom, I love how in depth you get with these tunes. Then share the results. I've gone faster cause of your work. Keep it up man!
 
IMHO, having a long first gear allows you to apply the "levers" of the other gears more. While racing you rarely get to those low speeds that require 1st gear. Standing starts are the exception, but don't usually balance the closer gearing for the "usable" gears.

The reverse is also true of the last (not "final") gear. If it's longer it allows the other gears to be closer, and sense you (or at least on the tracks I drive) spend less time in that last gear the balance weighs towards closer gearing.

But don't quote me, I'm an enthusiast with regards to tuning at best.
 
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OwensRacing
Now see I don't know about the logic there.

Might be something in a TQ converter that answers this. Figure these can multiply TQ. They do so before the trans and final gear.

I would assume any time to can ratio up. Increasing the lever before the final ratio the better.

Honestly call John Shepherd from Shepherd Transmissions. He installed "The Ultimate Ratio" gear set in my Evo's trans. I do believe first is longer. Outside that I have no clue other then I trust him. LoL. (actually I'm going to chase these ratios down and set up a GT5 Evo trans similar)


Dom, I love how in depth you get with these tunes. Then share the results. I've gone faster cause of your work. Keep it up man!
Click to expand...

Well, the gears I'm speaking of testing are identical in multiplied length. One uses a larger individual gear and a smaller final gear, the other uses smaller individual gears and a larger final gear.
The differences I can determine are that the final weighs more than an individual gear, and one setup spins a larger final gear, but it doesn't have to spin it as fast.
Which method resists rotation more? I have no clue.


I have to mention I hate the phrase "gears multiply torque" because it's misleading for the actual intended meaning behind it. It's a very in-depth, technical, mathematics-oriented discussion, spoken by scientists, interpreted by the masses, which always leads things off course.
The first common misconception I hear is basically that quick gears make cars go faster because they literally increase the torque. They do not.
The second is that their car might make "52,000 ft-lbs of torque in first gear". It does not.
If your car made 52,000 ft-lbs of torque, running at any regular engine idle speed your car would be a 10,000HP rocket.

"Gears multiply torque" is actually more similar to meaning "gears raise engine speed", because that's how they "multiply" the torque, and it's what they actually do.
On a 1-1 gear ratio, your engine might only running 1500rpm at 30mph. By changing the gear ratio, your rpm is now at 5,000 at 30mph. Your available torque has been multiplied, but not because your car is suddenly more powerful, it's actually because you raised the engine's rpm at that speed, which means you have more horsepower.
Now, of course, horsepower is torque per minute, so the gear has changed the available torque per minute in that gear at that speed, which is where the truth is in the saying "Gears multiply torque". Both gears will make the same power and torque at the same rpm, only the speed at which they reach it will change.

Gears multiply horsepower would be a more proper name for it, but "gears only change RPM at a given speed" is flat-out honest.


I have no doubt in this John Shepherd's abilities, and I would love to see those ratios, I've never gotten to try a real-world customized gear set before. :drool:
 
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CSLACR
Well, the gears I'm speaking of testing are identical in multiplied length. One uses a larger individual gear and a smaller final gear, the other uses smaller individual gears and a larger final gear.
The differences I can determine are that the final weighs more than an individual gear, and one setup spins a larger final gear, but it doesn't have to spin it as fast.
Which method resists rotation more? I have no clue.

I have to mention I hate the phrase "gears multiply torque" because it's misleading for the actual intended meaning behind it. It's a very in-depth, technical, mathematics-oriented discussion, spoken by scientists, interpreted by the masses, which always leads things off course.
The first common misconception I hear is basically that quick gears make cars go faster because they literally increase the torque. They do not.
The second is that their car might make "52,000 ft-lbs of torque in first gear". It does not.
If your car made 52,000 ft-lbs of torque, running at any regular engine idle speed your car would be a 10,000HP rocket.

"Gears multiply torque" is actually more similar to meaning "gears multiply engine speed", because that's how they "multiply" the torque, and it's what they actually do.
On a 1-1 gear ratio, your engine might only running 1500rpm at 30mph. By changing the gear ratio, your rpm is now at 5,000 at 30mph. Your available torque has been multiplied, but not because your car is suddenly more powerful, it's actually because you have more horsepower.
Now, of course, horsepower is torque per minute, so the gear has changed the available torque per minute in that gear at that speed, which is where the truth is in the saying "Gear multiply torque".
By "torque" though, it means torque per minute, which is called horsepower.
Gears multiply horsepower would be a proper name for it.

I have no doubt in this John Shepherd's abilities, and I would love to see those ratios, I've never gotten to try a real-world customized gear set before. :drool:
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I kinda got lost in that.

Simple for me is- So an engine takes 5 HP to turn a gear box that lifts a 100 lb weight or drags it say at 2:1 ratio. Where you get two turns from the input and 1 from the output. Then if you change the gears box to 3:1. You can now move over that 100 lb weight with the same 5 horse power. Or use less HP to move the weight.

These have draw backs. It will take more revs to get the same work done. But less power.

If ratios didn't move items better we wouldn't have multi gear transmissions.

In a drag car. We use this. However we know the final mph we need.

Now basing a trans ratios off a set MPH and then using ratios to maximize the out out of the engine.

I think the trans trick is relative in it puts the gearing closer. Keeping you in that sweet spot. If GT5 uses the power curves shown on for said car. We could find the power under the curve. Using this data we can then set ratios to keep the engine in its sweet spot. So basically if shifting drops the rpm's to low you get out of the sweet spot. That will slow you down.

This make any sense. Am I repeating what you wrote in a way I grasp?
 
Dom, I love how in depth you get with these tunes. Then share the results. I've gone faster cause of your work. Keep it up man!
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I plan to be doing more than ever before for a while, as my schedule remains so full it's something I can do at any time I please, and pick up and leave off without deadline, so it's working out nicely.

Any cars in particular you'd like to see?
I'm basically winging it with car selection right now, whatever comes to mind when I turn the PS3 on, I have a Silvia prepped to get a multiple-variations tune next, unless someone makes a request first.
1-3 days per car on average is my goal, depending on how much of a 🤬 the car wants to be. :lol:
 
OwensRacing
I kinda got lost in that.

Simple for me is- So an engine takes 5 HP to turn a gear box that lifts a 100 lb weight or drags it say at 2:1 ratio. Where you get two turns from the input and 1 from the output. Then if you change the gears box to 3:1. You can now move over that 100 lb weight with the same 5 horse power. Or use less HP to move the weight.

These have draw backs. It will take more revs to get the same work done. But less power.

If ratios didn't move items better we wouldn't have multi gear transmissions.

In a drag car. We use this. However we know the final mph we need.

Now basing a trans ratios off a set MPH and then using ratios to maximize the out out of the engine.

I think the trans trick is relative in it puts the gearing closer. Keeping you in that sweet spot. If GT5 uses the power curves shown on for said car. We could find the power under the curve. Using this data we can then set ratios to keep the engine in its sweet spot. So basically if shifting drops the rpm's to low you get out of the sweet spot. That will slow you down.

This make any sense. Am I repeating what you wrote in a way I grasp?
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I'm not debating that quicker gears make cars go quicker, just the terminology which is quite improper and misleading. The short of it is yes though, they obviously can make cars accelerate quicker.

As for the weight being turned, etc, what I'm saying is the gear must reach the same mph at the same rpm to compare a lower final drive setup versus a higher final drive setup.

Here's how to do it in GT5: (This should explain exactly what I mean for a real life comparison as well))
Step 1 - Pick any car and reset the transmission to default.
Step 2 - Set the final gear all the way right, 5.000, whatever it may be, as high as possible.
Step 3 - Move the top speed slider, to what seems a reasonable top speed for the car, you want it to drive as close to a racing gearbox you'd race with as possible without touching the actual gears. (Example: SuperGT GTR - Set top speed slider to 193mph)
You must move the slider though. Even if you move it over and back, it needs to be done to set the gears with the final drive.
Step 4 - Test the car, check the speeds reached at shift point in each gear, and measure acceleration and top speed.
Step 5 - Same car, reset the trans to default.
Step 6 - Lower the final to minimum.
Step 7 - Move the top speed slider to the same position as you had it before.
Again, you must move the slider at least once after setting the final drive for this test.
Step 8 - Once the gearing is set, you'll see on the screen you have identical overall gearing to the first setup, but now you have a totally different approach to reach the same gearing. Test it, time it, tell me I was right. :P

Just to anyone reading this: Don't confuse this test with how to set the gears I list in tunes.
In my tunes the top speed slider can absolutely not be touched once the final drive is set, this will completely wipe out all the indivdual gears, replacing them with GT5 generic settings. (Which is what we want for this test and this test only)

Regarding real life, if this could really work or not? I say flip a coin, I don't think it's ever been tested honestly.
 
Wow. Still trying to absorb all this discussion.

Last night I did some practicing and testing at Laguna for the camaro series mule setup.

Initially, I set the car up according to RKM's Deathscythe tune. Arguably, his car is not an RM, but I had to start somewhere. Set the tranny as near as I could get it using his instructions. Best time was a 1:30.xxx, not sure what my top speed was down the front straight but I never got higher than 4th gear anywhere. 2nd would do over 100mph. Felt horrible and engine seemed to dog out everywhere.

Reset tranny to defaults and keeping in mind this discussion, slammed the top speed slider all the way left (slowest), kicked the final all the way to 5.00, then set every gear, watching the graph for reference, pretty much all the way left. In my frame of reference, this gave me the shortest gearing possible. I then ran the final drive slider to the left until my indicated top speed (ITS) was about 233mph. Took it out for a spin. Didn't turn the first lap before I went back to set the final to where ITS was down to about 183mph. Went back out and promptly started running laps in the 1:27.xxx range.
I would classify that as a fairly dramatic improvement and proof that shorter gearing is faster. The car also felt much better everywhere on the track and instead of using 1st and 2nd for every corner, I was in 3rd or 4th with 2nd being used for only the tightest turns. I'm sure there are more tweaks this tune needs and I humbly request you, and anyone else who would like to, take a look at it and make any suggestions you feel relevant for an online tune for spec racing. The car is currently on share and I think CSL is still on my friends list. If anyone else wants to take a look, shoot me a FR, it'll be late this afternoon before I can accept it however.

Thanks to CSL and everybody that has contributed. I'm not the best driver and worse at tuning, but I can follow directions fairly well and this thread keeps the information flowing.

While this might be kind of a hollow offer, since I suspect most, if not all, of you have been playing GT far longer than I have, I'll still make it. According to the list at mygranturismo.net I have all but 40 of the cars in GT5. I refresh my ucd every time I log in. If any of you are looking for a car, suit or paint let me know, if I have it I'll send it.
 
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Dragonwhisky
Wow. Still trying to absorb all this discussion.

Last night I did some practicing and testing at Laguna for the camaro series mule setup.

Initially, I set the car up according to RKM's Deathscythe tune. Arguably, his car is not an RM, but I had to start somewhere. Set the tranny as near as I could get it using his instructions. Best time was a 1:30.xxx, not sure what my top speed was down the front straight but I never got higher than 4th gear anywhere. 2nd would do over 100mph. Felt horrible and engine seemed to dog out everywhere.

Reset tranny to defaults and keeping in mind this discussion, slammed the top speed slider all the way left (slowest), kicked the final all the way to 5.00, then set every gear, watching the graph for reference, pretty much all the way left. In my frame of reference, this gave me the shortest gearing possible. I then ran the final drive slider to the left until my indicated top speed (ITS) was about 233mph. Took it out for a spin. Didn't turn the first lap before I went back to set the final to where ITS was down to about 183mph. Went back out and promptly started running laps in the 1:27.xxx range.
I would classify that as a fairly dramatic improvement and proof that shorter gearing is faster. The car also felt much better everywhere on the track and instead of using 1st and 2nd for every corner, I was in 3rd or 4th with 2nd being used for only the tightest turns. I'm sure there are more tweaks this tune needs and I humbly request you, and anyone else who would like to, take a look at it and make any suggestions you feel relevant for an online tune for spec racing. The car is currently on share and I think CSL is still on my friends list. If anyone else wants to take a look, shoot me a FR, it'll be late this afternoon before I can accept it however.

Thanks to CSL and everybody that has contributed. I'm not the best driver and worse at tuning, but I can follow directions fairly well and this thread keeps the information flowing.

While this might be kind of a hollow offer, since I suspect most, if not all, of you have been playing GT far longer than I have, I'll still make it. According to the list at mygranturismo.net I have all but 40 of the cars in GT5. I refresh my ucd every time I log in. If any of you are looking for a car, suit or paint let me know, if I have it I'll send it.
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CSLACR
1st gear: Longer (Usually within 200 clicks of far left)
2nd: depends on first, if first was moved all the way left, 2nd will go about 100 clicks left, if first is shorter, 2nd will be shorter as well.
3rd: Almost always quicker, in the event of a long 2nd 3rd will stay put, usually 50-100 clicks right.
4th: Move until it shows on the graph as beginning at a slightly higher rpm than 3rd.
5th/6th: A little quicker than fourth.
6th/7th: Depends on the power band, if it's narrow the gears need to be specific for top speed, if it's wide I just set it as long (equal on graph) as the gear before it and make sure the car has enough gearing to run most any track.
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It sounds like you pretty much have it down, just don't set the gears so far left the final drive has to end up far right, you want the final drive as far left as possible.

I'll have a look at the Camaro RM set to spec and see what I can find.👍
 
CSLACR
It sounds like you pretty much have it down, just don't set the gears so far left the final drive has to end up far right, you want the final drive as far left as possible.

I'll have a look at the Camaro RM set to spec and see what I can find.👍
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That would be awesome. Thanks :D

You going to use the one I have on share or build one? It doesn't appear you can do anything with it on share anyway so I'll take it down so I can mess with it and practice.

The final gear is at 2.586 to get the ITS down to 180. Thinking of lowering it a little more because I don't think it's hitting the mark at the end of the straight in 5th.
 
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Dragonwhisky
That would be awesome. Thanks :D

You going to use the one I have on share or build one? It doesn't appear you can do anything with it on share anyway so I'll take it down so I can mess with it and practice.

The final gear is at 2.586 to get the ITS down to 180. Thinking of lowering it a little more because I don't think it's hitting the mark at the end of the straight in 5th.
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The Camaro is an early peaker, 6300 RPM, I'd aim for redline in 5th on the start/finish straight at the braking point for turn 1.
 
Nissan Silvia Spec R Aero '02 + GTA Edition
sangalganoabbeyh.jpg


Stock - 500PP No-Aero setup.
Tires: CS - RS
450PP Build: Stock engine, full weight reduction, small amount of PL to 450PP.
500PP Build: I believe all parts/power adders except engine stages will bring you very close to 500PP, aim for PL of 98%.

Aero:
 No Wing.

Ballast - 0KG @ 0
Full weight reduction - 1051-1056KG.(GTAcademy version is 5KG heavier due to not being allowed hood. Curious.

Transmission: (Set on stock engine)
Set top speed slider to 124mph (2 clicks right from far left)
3.660
2.860
2.260
1.820
1.485
1.220
Set Final as desired. (I used 2.800)

LSD:
9/17/5

Suspension:
4/16
6.7/5.3
5/3 (Alt 6/4)
2/4 (Alt 3/5)
3/2

Camber/Toe:
2.4/1.3
-0.09/-0.16

BB: 4/3
ABS: 1

Racing tires:
Raise spring rates 10% per grade. (.7 and .5 respectively)
Raise LSD to 9/19/5

Ballast variation 1 - 50KG @ 50(Rear)
Spring Rates to 7.2/6.2
Rear Toe to -0.14



Nissan Silvia Spec R Aero '02 + GTA Edition
bernmarketstreet.jpg


475PP - Maxed - With Wing.
Tires: SH - RS
Aero:
0/20

Ballast - 0KG @ 0
Full weight reduction - 1051-1056KG. GTAcademy version is 5KG heavier due to not being allowed hood. Curious.

Transmission: (Set on stock engine)
Set top speed slider to 124mph (2 clicks right from far left)
3.660
2.860
2.260
1.820
1.485
1.220
Set Final as desired. (I used 2.800)

LSD:
9/19/5

Suspension:
0/13
7.2/6.2
6/5 (Alt 6/4)
3/4 (Alt 3/5)
3/2

Camber/Toe:
2.4/1.3
-0.09/-0.33

BB: 4/3
ABS: 1

Racing tires:
Raise spring rates 10% per grade. (.7 and .6 respectively)
Raise LSD to 9/21/5

Aero/Toe variations:
These are for cars without ballast:
Aero 0/20 - Toe @ -0.33
Aero 0/15 - Toe @ -0.30
Aero 0/10 - Toe @ -0.27
Aero 0/05 - Toe @ -0.24

Ballast variation 2 - 99KG @ 50(Rear) Weight: 1150-55KG
Raise LSD to 9/21/5 (Possibly 1 or 2 higher accel for RM or RS)
Adjust rear toe according to the amount of aero you're using, see list below.
Aero 0/20 - Toe @ -0.25
Aero 0/15 - Toe @ -0.23
Aero 0/10 - Toe @ -0.20
Aero 0/05 - Toe @ -0.18

Comments: Which damper setting you'll like best depends on the track, and online/offline, unfortunately. If one setup doesn't feel right, try the alternate shocks.(Alt)
It doesn't have lots of grip exiting corners, the aero and ballast both help the car out quite a bit.
At what PP one setup becomes better than the other for you is what you'll need to find.
 
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BMW M3 CSL '03 - Online @ 500PP
roadcoursetwinringmotegu.jpg


Build 1: 380/1385/500
Sports muffler and cat, PL @ 97.7%

Build 2:


Aero:
N/A

Transmission:
Reset to Default (Without any upgrades applied)
Set top speed to minimum
4330
3260
2540
2020
1640
1360
Final gear: 2.550

LSD:
9/18/5

Suspension:
-5/5
10.0/9.5
6/5
3/5
3/3

Camber/Toe:
2.0/1.5
-0.05/+0.05

Brakes:
BB: 5/3
ABS: 1
 
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Chevrolet Camaro SS '10 - Racing Modified
nrburgringnordschleife1a.jpg


Build 1:
Stock - Racing Modified - No Chassis Rigidity.

Aero:
35/60

Transmission:
Reset to Default (Without any upgrades applied)
Set top speed to 124(Min)
3951
3070
2450
1990
1630
1350
Final gear as desired (I used 2.300)

LSD:
9/18/5

Suspension:
0/10
9.4/10.6
6/6
5/5
3/3

Camber/Toe:
2.4/1.6
-0.03/0.00

Brakes:
BB: 5/5
ABS: 1
 
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The '10 Camaro has always been one of my favorites. If'n I was a rich man I'd have one IRL.

I'm glad you decided to do a tune for it and can honestly vouch that its shaved 6 seconds off my time at Laguna. I'm still 3 seconds off you, Owensracing, Litchi and the rest of the field, but that's not the car's fault. For some reason I'm unwilling to pitch cars into turns like you and the other "aliens". The tune rocks in any case. Thanks again.

I have a fully modded RM in the garage. I will be setting this tune on it and test it out. I have no doubt it will make it faster even if I'm not.
 
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SGETI
M3. I was just wondering what happened to the settings. The page is blank.
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It was old and outdated, being one of my favorite cars, I feel a need to give it a thorough makeover.
DragonWhiskey
The '10 Camaro has always been one of my favorites. If'n I was a rich man I'd have one IRL.

I'm glad you decided to do a tune for it and can honestly vouch that its shaved 6 seconds off my time at Laguna. I'm still 3 seconds off you, Owensracing, Litchi and the rest of the field, but that's not the car's fault. For some reason I'm unwilling to pitch cars into turns like you and the other "aliens". The tune rocks in any case. Thanks again.

I have a fully modded RM in the garage. I will be setting this tune on it and test it out. I have no doubt it will make it faster even if I'm not.
Click to expand...
I'm roughly 2 seconds faster than I was my first time racing online at Laguna, it's an extremely difficult track, and to top that off, you really gotta go balls to the wall to nail fast laps there.:crazy:
 
Neat stuff, so it's basically a mix and match of the EVO 8 and 9 gears?

Maybe post or PM the specs of everything you have done to the car and I can do my best to replicate it? A dyno sheet and 1/4 times would be priceless if you have those as well.
Up to you of course, but sounds like fun to me.:)
 
Dodge Viper GTS '02
redbullhangar72s.jpg


Build 1: 550PP
Full weight reduction/Hood/Glass - No Chassis!
Sports ECU
TBD

Build 2: 600PP
TBD

Aero:
N/A (Without wing setup)

Transmission:
Reset to Default (Without any upgrades applied)
Set top speed to 143(3 clicks right from minimum)
3.355
2.610
2.060
1.635
1.315
1.070
Final gear as desired (I used 2.100)
Shift about 200RPM before shift light, with any upgrades applied or stock.

LSD:
8/17/5

Suspension:
-5/5
9.6/10.4
5/6
4/3
3/4

Camber/Toe:
2.4/1.8
-0.11/0.00

Brakes:
BB: 5/3
ABS: 1

With Wing:
Aero @ 0/05 - Rear Toe @ -0.05
Aero @ 0/10 - Rear Toe @ -0.10
Aero @ 0/15 - Rear Toe @ -0.15
Aero @ 0/20 - Rear Toe @ -0.20
Yes, it's magically uniform for this car.:lol: It really is too.:crazy:

Racing Tires:
LSD: 9/18/5
Springs: 11.7/12.5
Ext Dampers: Raise each 1
Com Dampers: Raise each 1
ARB: 4/5

Alt Dampers: Unfortunately dampers aren't always universal, so I dug out what I saw needed different damper settings and made a list.
Stock weight - 5/7 Extension - 5/3 Compression
Min weight without aero/low rear aero - 5/6 Extension - 4/3 Compression
Min weight + Aero - 6/6 Extension - 4/4 Compression
Remember, +1 for each when using racing tires.
 
Last edited:
CSLACR
Neat stuff, so it's basically a mix and match of the EVO 8 and 9 gears?

Maybe post or PM the specs of everything you have done to the car and I can do my best to replicate it? A dyno sheet and 1/4 times would be priceless if you have those as well.
Up to you of course, but sounds like fun to me.:)
Click to expand...

Only thing is have would ET's on stock turbo and stock trans. Build isn't completed yet.

Ridiculously close though. About 1k dollars left to spend. That and some desire to finish it. LoL

Prior was 12.01@114mph making roughly 330-350whp.

The car should be making roughly 500whp and see 10.6-10.9 ET's when on the road.
 
OwensRacing
Only thing is have would ET's on stock turbo and stock trans. Build isn't completed yet.

Ridiculously close though. About 1k dollars left to spend. That and some desire to finish it. LoL

Prior was 12.01@114mph making roughly 330-350whp.

The car should be making roughly 500whp and see 10.6-10.9 ET's when on the road.
Click to expand...
Sounds awesome.👍

Any idea what RPM it will be limited to?(Gearing purposes)
 
Renault Clio Something Premium (Dirt tune)
hotpinkclio.jpg


Specs were 295HP/1200KG, unlimited ballast and PL use.

Aero: 0/20
Ballast: 94 @ 18(Rear)

LSD:
8 / 14 / 5

BB: 6/6
ABS: 10

Suspension:
25 / 40
4.0 / 4.8
5 / 5
4 / 4
2 / 2

Camber/Toe:
2.0 / 1.0
0.00 / +0.30

Gears don't matter much with as much PL as possible, so I never noted the gear setup. I'll probably update this with a gearbox.
 
Last edited:
CSLACR

I watched a BBC version of Top Gear that featured the BMW CSL.

Straight beast:crazy:

I can see why you have a thing for it. The floor of the trunk is made of card board for God's sake. All carbon fiber body parts. No A/C, no power seats, no navagation system. Interior parts made of glass infused plastic.

This and other things pushed the weight down to 1385kg. Thats 240 pounds lighter than any other M3. You could have any color you wanted as long as it was Silver Grey Metallic or Black Sapphire Metallic.:sly:

The M3/CSL was never exported to the United States. It's a 🤬 monster.
 

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