CSLACRBMW 1M
Build: 335HP 1495KG
Stage 1 Weight Reduction - Ballast 91KG's @ 0.
Sports Air Filter, Sports Exhaust Manifold - PL @ 99.7%
Adjustable LSD, Carbon Drive Shaft, Sports Clutch, Racing Suspension.
Ballast
91@ 0
Aero:
N/A
Transmission:
Stock
LSD:
9/20/10
Suspension:
0/9
8.5/9.0
4/3
2/3
2/2
Camber/Toe:
1.6/1.1
-0.04/+0.02
Brakes:
BB: 5/3
ABS: 1
With Wing:
Comments: The BMW 1M.
For a truly "stock" 1M, use SH tires.
In case it's not clear, the car used for this is the BMW 135(Premium)
That sir, is a good question. I'll have to check.You sir have been busy turning out tunes. Ive quite a bit of catch up to do.
I have but two questions:
What color is on the 02 GTS Viper? 👍
Same girl, same amazazing.Blood*SpecterWho is the new woman? Her eyes are mesmerizing.
I would say start at 4/2, if the rear is locking too easily or before the fronts, then try 3/1.Yo Dom, I have a question to ask from you. I normally drive with all assist off, including ABS=0.
Now I have set my car as to your setting but I would like to know what changes should I make to it, the brake balance?
That sir, is a good question. I'll have to check.You sir have been busy turning out tunes. I’ve quite a bit of catch up to do.
I have but two questions:
What color is on the 02 GTS Viper? 👍
Same girl, same amazazing.Blood*SpecterWho is the new woman? Her eyes are mesmerizing.
I would say start at 4/2, if the rear is locking too easily or before the fronts, then try 3/1.Yo Dom, I have a question to ask from you. I normally drive with all assist off, including ABS=0.
Now I have set my car as to your setting but I would like to know what changes should I make to it, the brake balance?
Yeah, generally speaking the 0-100 is nullified due to extra wheelspin. I've noticed the difference is more or less depending on the car, but never compared how much it affects different cars, good stuff.👍I've been doing some testing in regards to the lower final drive/higher gear ratio vs (an equal) higher final drive/lower gear ratio
and I've found that in most cases you are right. A car with a 2.000 FD / 5.000 gear will be quicker than a car with 5.000 FD / 2.000 gear (as an example) and doing it for all the gears. I don't know why either since in theory they should be equally as fast. Some cars benefited more than others and I've found one (3400S) where there was virtually no/very little difference. I've yet to come across a car that is quicker the other way. I test on the 1000m acceleration test. In many cases there is not much difference in 0-100 km/hr but 0-200km/hr I've seen some big differences. Meaning the bulk of the difference is 100-200, speeds we (mostly) encounter racing around a track.
Well, the good news is that I basically never make a tune that isn't functional online.I have request for some tunes and a guestion. First how about some cars on race soft tires for ONLINE.. Here are a few cars I could need a good online race soft tire tune for..
Camaro SS10 NON RM just street car with everything done to it to be fastest at 550pp..
NSX TypeR 02 non RM agin street car with whatever to make it fastest for 530pp
M3 CSL Revised for fastest 550pp
RX8 07 Same deal street car fully tuned for online and race softs.
Audi R8 4.2 Same deal online race softs at 580pp
If they need a wing to make fastest lap time so be it. Tire wear isnt an issue.. And I have a quetion on your LFA tune you have the ride height at +40/+40 is that correct?? Havent tried it yet but was going to give it a try.. Also your RX7 02 tune has a +35/+40 ride height is that correct as well or just because it was tuned on sport tires.. Dont worry im cool so if you cant no big deal I wont bad mouth ya lol.. Just wondering where your tunes would match up or how close they would be to that I have. Thanks for help before.
CSLACRLap times in my testing are inseparable between max and min ride height.
The closest thing I can figure is that lower corners a bit faster, because I know higher has more traction while accelerating, at least for RWD. So I choose ride height based more on what tires I expect will to use.Boy does this speak volumes regarding game suspension physics and game physics in general. If the lap times are the same then why change ride height at all? Why bother even adding a suspension kit?
Is there a difference in max-median-min?
Either.Do you run those + ride heights on race soft tires or is it for the SS tires. I have no problem trying it just didnt know if it made it handle better because SS tires are so slick or if works good even on race tires???
Well, none of my tunes that I've made in a while can bottom out without doing something ridiculous. It's just too easy to make a tune that doesn't bottom out and performs exactly as well. So I don't lower cars enough to bottom out, ever. There's just no reason to whatsoever.Ok, since I can't feel or have yet to hear an indication, how do you tell if the car bottoms out?
I would use the stable setup for the rain.Ehi CSL, do you have any suggestion for a Suzuka setting up for the lexus petronas tom, wet track?
CSLACRThat sir, is a good question. I'll have to check.
Same girl, same amazazing.
I would say start at 4/2, if the rear is locking too easily or before the fronts, then try 3/1.
It does like to lock the rears.(that's why the bb is at 5/3 already)
To be honest I don't know much about it or use it. It doesn't sound optimal though, what car with what tune?Ok, after Ronald6 and CSL's remarks about the TLI, I turned it on and have been practicing with it since. Please let me know if my interpretation of the icons is correct.
Outer circle = available contact patch
Inner circle = Suspension overload indicator (turns red with an exclamation point)
Middle ring = expands and contracts to indicate current contact patch
If this is correct then the car I've been using has a very stable, in turn, rear contact patch. The fronts however are spastic as all 🤬 and show much less patch being used during almost any condition, in a turn or straight. Wouldn't this indicate an adjustment is needed in the front suspension and which settings would most likely cure the instability?
There are definitely faster builds for the Vette, depending on the track and tires, I just liked it's feel at those specs.Nice ZR1 tune! I didn't do the engine upgrade because it's not undoable so I made up the power with add ons (surprised 3rd stage engine doesn't push it way over 600pp.)
Ended up taking the power off again, dropping all weight and put aero to 10 for my best times. Tested on Tokyo. Improved by about 1.75 seconds from my original tune. Still no match for an Italia at 600pp, ah well.
Glad you liked it. It's designed to drive like a 1M might if PD added a DLC car, as in a stock 1M.(Not with a racing suspension)vinze1129BMW 1M online test
328hp / 1495kg / 470PP / SH
Deep Forest : 1:29.580(3rd lap)
I'm just an average driver,
Your tune is great. Better than stock very much. Easier to handle the car but I think it's a bit floaty. You have a reason why you set your ride height this high.
Thx and I will still follow your tunes
To be honest I don't know much about it or use it. It doesn't sound optimal though, what car with what tune?