Photo Finish Racing - 2.10 How-To Updates/Amendments

  • Thread starter CSLACR
  • 550 comments
  • 194,517 views
Fat20F20-20Amazing20machine.jpg



Sorry, couldn't resist.
It is though, they improved everything about an already great car, and that's a rare but glorious thing.
 
Hi CSLACR, just had to pop in and say a big thank you. I gave your Scion FR-S setup a whirl and, while I did change the springs slightly to suit my driving style (it was a bit too twitchy at Laguna Seca for me), it works great :D
 
Dom here is my Drag racing results using the stock ratios and ultimate.

710564eb.jpg


Not a huge difference in ET. I can tell the difference when using clutch. Can't wait to try them in real life. ;)
 
Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 '09 - Online @ Motegi Full
sienapiazzadelcampo.jpg


Build 1: 600PP - 712/1350/600/RS
Stage 2 weight reduction/Hood/Glass - No Chassis!
Engine Stage 3 - PL @ 99.5%
Stock Flywheel and Transmission
Racing Suspension and LSD, Clutch and Drive shaft RS Tires

Ballast
69KG's @ 0

Aero:
0/5

Transmission:
Stock

LSD:
9/19/12

Suspension:
3/12
12.8/12.4
6/3
3/5
3/3

Camber/Toe:
2.4/1.6
0.00/0.00

Brakes:
BB: 5/4
ABS: 1

With Wing:
Aero @ 0/10 - Rear Toe @ -0.05
Aero @ 0/15 - Rear Toe @ -0.10
Aero @ 0/20 - Rear Toe @ -0.15

Comments: Obviously, without the trans upgraded this isn't a serious PP competitor, but it's one of the most enjoyable cars I've driven in the game at these specs. First car I tuned that I really started hot lapping out of sheer fun in a while.
Built to mimic a real-world time attack car that might be entered into competition by a skilled tuner/privateer racer.
 
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BMW 1M
bmw1mq.jpg


Build: 335HP 1495KG
Stage 1 Weight Reduction - Ballast 91KG's @ 0.
Sports Air Filter, Sports Exhaust Manifold - PL @ 99.7%
Adjustable LSD, Carbon Drive Shaft, Sports Clutch, Racing Suspension.

Ballast
91@ 0

Aero:
N/A

Transmission:
Stock

LSD:
9/20/10

Suspension:
0/9
8.5/9.0
4/3
2/3
2/2

Camber/Toe:
1.6/1.1
-0.04/+0.02

Brakes:
BB: 5/3
ABS: 1

With Wing:


Comments: The BMW 1M. :)
For a truly "stock" 1M, use SH tires.
In case it's not clear, the car used for this is the BMW 135(Premium)
 
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Dodge Viper ACR '08 - Universal 600PP
sangalganoabbeyw.jpg


Specs are without an oil change.
Build 1: 600PP - 650/1400/600/SS-RS
Weight Reduction Stage 2 - Ballast 66KG @ 0
Supercharger - PL @ 99.5%

Build 2: 600PP - 648/1350/600/SS-RS
Stage 2 Weight Reduction - Ballast 16KG @ 0
Sports ECU, Exhaust Manifold, Air Filter, Intake Manifold - PL @ 98.4%

Ballast
16-66KG's @ 0

Aero:
N/A

Transmission:
Stock

LSD:
9/20/5

Suspension:
-6/2
11.7/11.7
6/4
3/5
3/3

Camber/Toe:
2.2/1.6
-0.04/0.00

Brakes:
BB: 6/4
ABS: 1

Comments: These specs are without an oil change. To do this, simply don't change the oil on a new car, once it reaches 200 miles, it will fit these specs so long as you don't change the oil.
 
You sir have been busy turning out tunes. I’ve quite a bit of catch up to do.

I have but two questions:

What color is on the 02 GTS Viper? 👍

Who is the new woman? Her eyes are mesmerizing. :drool: :D
 
CSLACR
BMW 1M

Build: 335HP 1495KG
Stage 1 Weight Reduction - Ballast 91KG's @ 0.
Sports Air Filter, Sports Exhaust Manifold - PL @ 99.7%
Adjustable LSD, Carbon Drive Shaft, Sports Clutch, Racing Suspension.

Ballast
91@ 0

Aero:
N/A

Transmission:
Stock

LSD:
9/20/10

Suspension:
0/9
8.5/9.0
4/3
2/3
2/2

Camber/Toe:
1.6/1.1
-0.04/+0.02

Brakes:
BB: 5/3
ABS: 1

With Wing:

Comments: The BMW 1M. :)
For a truly "stock" 1M, use SH tires.
In case it's not clear, the car used for this is the BMW 135(Premium)
Click to expand...

Yo Dom, I have a question to ask from you. I normally drive with all assist off, including ABS=0.
Now I have set my car as to your setting but I would like to know what changes should I make to it, the brake balance?
 
Blood*Specter
You sir have been busy turning out tunes. I’ve quite a bit of catch up to do.

I have but two questions:

What color is on the 02 GTS Viper? 👍
Click to expand...
That sir, is a good question. I'll have to check.

Blood*Specter
Who is the new woman? Her eyes are mesmerizing. :drool: :D
Click to expand...
Same girl, same amazazing.:)

vinze1129
Yo Dom, I have a question to ask from you. I normally drive with all assist off, including ABS=0.
Now I have set my car as to your setting but I would like to know what changes should I make to it, the brake balance?
Click to expand...
I would say start at 4/2, if the rear is locking too easily or before the fronts, then try 3/1.
It does like to lock the rears.(that's why the bb is at 5/3 already) :scared:
 
Blood*Specter
You sir have been busy turning out tunes. I’ve quite a bit of catch up to do.

I have but two questions:

What color is on the 02 GTS Viper? 👍
Click to expand...
That sir, is a good question. I'll have to check.

Blood*Specter
Who is the new woman? Her eyes are mesmerizing. :drool: :D
Click to expand...
Same girl, same amazazing.:)

vinze1129
Yo Dom, I have a question to ask from you. I normally drive with all assist off, including ABS=0.
Now I have set my car as to your setting but I would like to know what changes should I make to it, the brake balance?
Click to expand...
I would say start at 4/2, if the rear is locking too easily or before the fronts, then try 3/1.
It does like to lock the rears.(that's why the bb is at 5/3 already) :scared:
 
I've been doing some testing in regards to the lower final drive/higher gear ratio vs (an equal) higher final drive/lower gear ratio

and I've found that in most cases you are right. A car with a 2.000 FD / 5.000 gear will be quicker than a car with 5.000 FD / 2.000 gear (as an example) and doing it for all the gears. I don't know why either since in theory they should be equally as fast. Some cars benefited more than others and I've found one (3400S) where there was virtually no/very little difference. I've yet to come across a car that is quicker the other way. I test on the 1000m acceleration test. In many cases there is not much difference in 0-100 km/hr but 0-200km/hr I've seen some big differences. Meaning the bulk of the difference is 100-200, speeds we (mostly) encounter racing around a track.
 
esoxhntr
I've been doing some testing in regards to the lower final drive/higher gear ratio vs (an equal) higher final drive/lower gear ratio

and I've found that in most cases you are right. A car with a 2.000 FD / 5.000 gear will be quicker than a car with 5.000 FD / 2.000 gear (as an example) and doing it for all the gears. I don't know why either since in theory they should be equally as fast. Some cars benefited more than others and I've found one (3400S) where there was virtually no/very little difference. I've yet to come across a car that is quicker the other way. I test on the 1000m acceleration test. In many cases there is not much difference in 0-100 km/hr but 0-200km/hr I've seen some big differences. Meaning the bulk of the difference is 100-200, speeds we (mostly) encounter racing around a track.
Click to expand...
Yeah, generally speaking the 0-100 is nullified due to extra wheelspin. I've noticed the difference is more or less depending on the car, but never compared how much it affects different cars, good stuff.👍

It's one of the reasons I say gears are the most powerful non-power modification in the game. :)
 
I have request for some tunes and a guestion. First how about some cars on race soft tires for ONLINE.. Here are a few cars I could need a good online race soft tire tune for..

Camaro SS10 NON RM just street car with everything done to it to be fastest at 550pp..

NSX TypeR 02 non RM agin street car with whatever to make it fastest for 530pp

M3 CSL Revised for fastest 550pp

RX8 07 Same deal street car fully tuned for online and race softs.

Audi R8 4.2 Same deal online race softs at 580pp

If they need a wing to make fastest lap time so be it. Tire wear isnt an issue.. And I have a quetion on your LFA tune you have the ride height at +40/+40 is that correct?? Havent tried it yet but was going to give it a try.. Also your RX7 02 tune has a +35/+40 ride height is that correct as well or just because it was tuned on sport tires.. Dont worry im cool so if you cant no big deal I wont bad mouth ya lol.. Just wondering where your tunes would match up or how close they would be to that I have. Thanks for help before.
 
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Taz69
I have request for some tunes and a guestion. First how about some cars on race soft tires for ONLINE.. Here are a few cars I could need a good online race soft tire tune for..

Camaro SS10 NON RM just street car with everything done to it to be fastest at 550pp..

NSX TypeR 02 non RM agin street car with whatever to make it fastest for 530pp

M3 CSL Revised for fastest 550pp

RX8 07 Same deal street car fully tuned for online and race softs.

Audi R8 4.2 Same deal online race softs at 580pp

If they need a wing to make fastest lap time so be it. Tire wear isnt an issue.. And I have a quetion on your LFA tune you have the ride height at +40/+40 is that correct?? Havent tried it yet but was going to give it a try.. Also your RX7 02 tune has a +35/+40 ride height is that correct as well or just because it was tuned on sport tires.. Dont worry im cool so if you cant no big deal I wont bad mouth ya lol.. Just wondering where your tunes would match up or how close they would be to that I have. Thanks for help before.
Click to expand...
Well, the good news is that I basically never make a tune that isn't functional online.
More good news is I have a 500PP CSL tune that isn't posted, which means a maxed version isn't far off. Same for the Camaro.

Yes, those ride heights are correct. Of course you can change +40/+40 to +10/+10 if you desire, I use max ride height when I want the car to be as easy to drive as possible. Lap times in my testing are inseparable between max and min ride height.
 
CSLACR
Lap times in my testing are inseparable between max and min ride height.
Click to expand...

Boy does this speak volumes regarding game suspension physics and game physics in general. If the lap times are the same then why change ride height at all? Why bother even adding a suspension kit?
Is there a difference in max-median-min?
 
Do you run those + ride heights on race soft tires or is it for the SS tires. I have no problem trying it just didnt know if it made it handle better because SS tires are so slick or if works good even on race tires???
 
Dragonwhisky
Boy does this speak volumes regarding game suspension physics and game physics in general. If the lap times are the same then why change ride height at all? Why bother even adding a suspension kit?
Is there a difference in max-median-min?
Click to expand...
The closest thing I can figure is that lower corners a bit faster, because I know higher has more traction while accelerating, at least for RWD. So I choose ride height based more on what tires I expect will to use.
I go as low as possible without sacrificing grip out of corner exits and without bottoming out.
Also I find the front/rear relation of ride height to be possibly the most critical part of stabilizing a car. (Example: Rear 9mm higher than front, etc)
Other than this and bottoming out, it's pretty much preference, yes. I rarely make max height tunes because they look silly.

Taz69
Do you run those + ride heights on race soft tires or is it for the SS tires. I have no problem trying it just didnt know if it made it handle better because SS tires are so slick or if works good even on race tires???
Click to expand...
Either.
I generally lower the car more as tire grip increases, particularly with RS there's no need for the extra height. I would definitely start at +10/+10 on RS and see if there's enough grip to go lower.👍
 
Ok, since I can't feel or have yet to hear an indication, how do you tell if the car bottoms out?
 
Dragonwhisky
Ok, since I can't feel or have yet to hear an indication, how do you tell if the car bottoms out?
Click to expand...
Well, none of my tunes that I've made in a while can bottom out without doing something ridiculous. It's just too easy to make a tune that doesn't bottom out and performs exactly as well. So I don't lower cars enough to bottom out, ever. There's just no reason to whatsoever.
I can tell when a car bottoms out, but I can't think of a way to describe it. The easy way is to turn the load indicator on, if any of the indicators turn red it means you bottomed out. It's like a clunking down of the car, and if you have the wheel turned just right, it'll will send you into a spin or bounce you off the track.

Valeboss94
Ehi CSL, do you have any suggestion for a Suzuka setting up for the lexus petronas tom, wet track?
Click to expand...
I would use the stable setup for the rain.

Lexus PETRONAS/Denso Sard SC430 '08 - STABLE

Lexus PETRONAS/Denso Sard SC430 '08 - LOOSE
 
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CSLACR
That sir, is a good question. I'll have to check.

Same girl, same amazazing.:)

I would say start at 4/2, if the rear is locking too easily or before the fronts, then try 3/1.
It does like to lock the rears.(that's why the bb is at 5/3 already) :scared:
Click to expand...

BMW 1M online test
328hp / 1495kg / 470PP / SH
Deep Forest : 1:29.580(3rd lap)

I'm just an average driver,
Your tune is great. Better than stock very much. Easier to handle the car but I think it's a bit floaty. You have a reason why you set your ride height this high.

Thx and I will still follow your tunes
 
Ok, after Ronald6 and CSL's remarks about the TLI, I turned it on and have been practicing with it since. Please let me know if my interpretation of the icons is correct.

Outer circle = available contact patch
Inner circle = Suspension overload indicator (turns red with an exclamation point)
Middle ring = expands and contracts to indicate current contact patch

If this is correct then the car I've been using has a very stable, in turn, rear contact patch. The fronts however are spastic as all 🤬 and show much less patch being used during almost any condition, in a turn or straight. Wouldn't this indicate an adjustment is needed in the front suspension and which settings would most likely cure the instability?
 
Nice ZR1 tune! I didn't do the engine upgrade because it's not undoable so I made up the power with add ons (surprised 3rd stage engine doesn't push it way over 600pp.)

Ended up taking the power off again, dropping all weight and put aero to 10 for my best times. Tested on Tokyo. Improved by about 1.75 seconds from my original tune. Still no match for an Italia at 600pp, ah well.
 
Dragonwhisky
Ok, after Ronald6 and CSL's remarks about the TLI, I turned it on and have been practicing with it since. Please let me know if my interpretation of the icons is correct.

Outer circle = available contact patch
Inner circle = Suspension overload indicator (turns red with an exclamation point)
Middle ring = expands and contracts to indicate current contact patch

If this is correct then the car I've been using has a very stable, in turn, rear contact patch. The fronts however are spastic as all 🤬 and show much less patch being used during almost any condition, in a turn or straight. Wouldn't this indicate an adjustment is needed in the front suspension and which settings would most likely cure the instability?
Click to expand...
To be honest I don't know much about it or use it. It doesn't sound optimal though, what car with what tune?

smrtb0mb
Nice ZR1 tune! I didn't do the engine upgrade because it's not undoable so I made up the power with add ons (surprised 3rd stage engine doesn't push it way over 600pp.)

Ended up taking the power off again, dropping all weight and put aero to 10 for my best times. Tested on Tokyo. Improved by about 1.75 seconds from my original tune. Still no match for an Italia at 600pp, ah well.
Click to expand...
There are definitely faster builds for the Vette, depending on the track and tires, I just liked it's feel at those specs.:)

vinze1129
BMW 1M online test
328hp / 1495kg / 470PP / SH
Deep Forest : 1:29.580(3rd lap)

I'm just an average driver,
Your tune is great. Better than stock very much. Easier to handle the car but I think it's a bit floaty. You have a reason why you set your ride height this high.

Thx and I will still follow your tunes
Click to expand...
Glad you liked it. It's designed to drive like a 1M might if PD added a DLC car, as in a stock 1M.(Not with a racing suspension)
I'll surely make a tune for the car with a more spirited suspension in the near future though.👍
 
CSLACR
To be honest I don't know much about it or use it. It doesn't sound optimal though, what car with what tune?
Click to expand...

The RM Camaro., your tune.

Don't get me wrong here Dom, I'm fastest and most comfortable driving with your tune. Just trying to eek a few more tenths while I continue learning how to do something I already thought I knew how to do. The only reason I brought it up here is because you and others in this thread seem willing to un-knot my ignorance with tuning these cars in game. Ronald mentioned this TLI and what it actually does, which I thought was just a more in your face tire temp indicator so never really explored what it displayed. If it does in fact display pertinent tire traction information it may turn out to be a more useful tool than previously thought. If it's a true representation of active contact patch... I can only think that more rubber on the road is better, in game or out.
 
I would assume then it might be largely due to the understeer, but I'm not really sure. I'll play around with it later and see what I find though.
I do know the rear patch will stay larger due to the 47/53 balance of the car, but I don't know what else it all means.
 

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