Photo Finish Racing - 2.10 How-To Updates/Amendments

  • Thread starter CSLACR
  • 550 comments
  • 194,517 views
Lotus Exige S '06 220-240
sangalganoabbey1t.jpg


Build 1: 216HP - 933KG(2,057lbs) Sports Hard Tires
Aero kit as shown
Low RPM Turbo - PL @ 100%
Chassis Reinforcement
Racing Clutch, LSD, Suspension


Build 2: 240HP - 933KG(2,057lbs) Sports Hard Tires
Aero kit as shown
Mid RPM Turbo, Sports Air Filter, Intake Manifold, & Exhaust Manifold - PL @ 99.9%
Chassis Reinforcement
Racing Clutch, LSD, Suspension


Ballast: 73@36(Rear) 38/62 Weight Distribution

Aero:
0/13

Transmission:
Stock

LSD:
8/15/5

Suspension:
0/14
3.5/5.6
2/3
2/1
1/2

Camber/Toe:
1.8/2.7
-0.11/+0.25

Brakes:
BB: 5/5
ABS: 1


Comments: An Elise 111R, obviously, built to drive like a stock Exige S might, at spec. HP is down 2, but have no fear, top speed is still wildly too high.
Lap Times (220)
Nurburgring Nordschleife: 7:39.040
Laguna Seca: 1:36.1
 
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Toyota WedsSport Celica '03 - Online Track Specific
176165488_7028c65c0d_z.jpg


Build: 315/1050/539
Stock - PL @ 98.1% - No Chassis Rigidity.



Nurburgring GP/F

Aero:
35/60

Transmission:
Set Final Gear to 4.000
Set top speed to 124(Min)
3520
2750
2210
1780
1465
1250
Final gear 2.800

LSD:
8/14/5

Suspension:
5/5
12.7/12.2
8/5
2/5
3/3

Camber/Toe:
2.4/1.2
-0.05/-0.55

Brakes:
BB: 4/4
ABS: 1



Cote D Azure (Monaco)

Aero:
35/60

Transmission:
Set Final Gear to 4.000
Set top speed to 124(Min)
3520
2820
2310
1900
1584
1350
Final gear 2.500

LSD:
7/15/30

Suspension:
15/15
14.8/14.5
8/5
3/6
1/1

Camber/Toe:
2.5/1.0
-0.03/-0.10

Brakes:
BB: 4/3
ABS: 1



Spa

Aero:
35/60

Transmission:
Set Final Gear to 4.000
Set top speed to 124(Min)
3520
2820
2310
1900
1584
1350
Final gear 2.500

LSD:
7/14/5

Suspension:
15/10
20.0/17.0
10/5
5/10
7/6

Camber/Toe:
2.4/1.4
-0.12/-0.25

Brakes:
BB: 6/4
ABS: 1



Suzuka

Aero:
35/60

Transmission:


LSD:


Suspension:


Camber/Toe:


Brakes:
BB:
ABS: 1
 
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RE Amemiya Asparadrink RX7 '06
0061.jpg


Build 1: 325/1100/530
Stock - PL @ 96.6% - No Chassis Rigidity.


Nurburgring GP/F

Aero:
35/60

Transmission:
Set Final Gear to 4.000
Set top speed to 124(Min)
4275
3390
2795
2300
1910
1640
Set Final Gear: 2750

LSD:
8/13/5


Suspension:
5/10
13.4/13.4
6/7
4/3
3/3


Camber/Toe:
2.4/1.4
-0.10/-0.30

Brakes:
BB: 4/4
ABS: 1
 
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:lol: Looks like I'm gonna need to build me a spreadsheet to keep track of the changes you make per track.

Thanks! 👍
 
Chevrolet Camaro SS '10 RM - Online @ Deep Forest
ahrweilertownsquarea.jpg


Build:
Stock - Racing Modified - No Chassis Rigidity.

Aero:
35/60

Transmission:
Reset to Default (Without any upgrades applied)
Set top speed to 124(Min)
3951
3120
2550
2095
1733
1470
Final gear 2.200

LSD:
9/17/5

Suspension:
8/15
9.0/8.5
6/5
5/5
3/3

Camber/Toe:
2.4/1.0
-0.07/-0.33

Brakes:
BB: 3/4
ABS: 1

I take it by the edit time you changed it prior to the race?

I used this from your earlier post and got my PB down to 1:11.704 during the race.

Suspension: Front Rear

Ride Height: 8.0 15.0
Spring Rate: 9.0 8.0
Dampers (Ext.): 6.0 6.0
Dampers (Comp): 4.0 4.0
Anti-Roll Bars 3.0 3.0
Camber Angle (-): 2.4 1.2
Toe Angle: -0.05 -0.45

LSD:
Initial Torque: 8
Accel Sensitivity: 15
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Aerodynamics:
Downforce: 35 60

Brake Balance: 3 4
ABS: 1

Weight Adj.:
Ballast Amount: 0
Ballast Position: 47 53


Transmission:
First Gear: 3.951
Second Gear: 3.120
Third Gear: 2.550
Fourth Gear: 2.095
Fifth Gear: 1.733
Sixth Gear: 1.470
Seventh Gear: N/A
Eighth Gear: N/A
Final Gear: 2.200
Top Speed (MPH): 124
Top Speed (KPH): 199.559
 
Well, none of my tunes that I've made in a while can bottom out without doing something ridiculous. It's just too easy to make a tune that doesn't bottom out and performs exactly as well. So I don't lower cars enough to bottom out, ever. There's just no reason to whatsoever.
I can tell when a car bottoms out, but I can't think of a way to describe it. The easy way is to turn the load indicator on, if any of the indicators turn red it means you bottomed out. It's like a clunking down of the car, and if you have the wheel turned just right, it'll will send you into a spin or bounce you off the track.


I would use the stable setup for the rain.

Lexus PETRONAS/Denso Sard SC430 '08 - STABLE

Lexus PETRONAS/Denso Sard SC430 '08 - LOOSE

Thanks, but I already tested your lexus tunings , and honestly don't really work as good as I wish, cause my rivals do laps in 1.56-57, I can race in 2:02-03 at least so I'm really disadvantaged, could you please give me some advice to make it run faster? Thanks a lot, remember it's suzuka wet track
 
I take it by the edit time you changed it prior to the race?

I used this from your earlier post and got my PB down to 1:11.704 during the race.

Suspension: Front Rear

Ride Height: 8.0 15.0
Spring Rate: 9.0 8.0
Dampers (Ext.): 6.0 6.0
Dampers (Comp): 4.0 4.0
Anti-Roll Bars 3.0 3.0
Camber Angle (-): 2.4 1.2
Toe Angle: -0.05 -0.45

LSD:
Initial Torque: 8
Accel Sensitivity: 15
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Aerodynamics:
Downforce: 35 60

Brake Balance: 3 4
ABS: 1

Weight Adj.:
Ballast Amount: 0
Ballast Position: 47 53


Transmission:
First Gear: 3.951
Second Gear: 3.120
Third Gear: 2.550
Fourth Gear: 2.095
Fifth Gear: 1.733
Sixth Gear: 1.470
Seventh Gear: N/A
Eighth Gear: N/A
Final Gear: 2.200
Top Speed (MPH): 124
Top Speed (KPH): 199.559
Yeah that's the tune I had until about 2 minutes before qualifying. Then I changed it a bit more in qualifying. Then a final tweak after the race.
If we ran the race again I wouldn't touch it, it's complete now. :) (I actually did the same with the Laguna tune as well)

Thanks, but I already tested your lexus tunings , and honestly don't really work as good as I wish, cause my rivals do laps in 1.56-57, I can race in 2:02-03 at least so I'm really disadvantaged, could you please give me some advice to make it run faster? Thanks a lot, remember it's suzuka wet track
No tune will make 6 seconds up. Suzuka is a very difficult track to master, I'd recommend setting the tune so your tires are a little more worn in the front come pit time, and getting lots of practice laps in. Sounds obvious, but there's usually 2-3 seconds in some hardcore hot lapping practice.
 
What made you decide to change it?
A drive on Suzuka made me change the dampers, stability made me drop some rear toe, and the LSD was already burning the inside too easy, so I tightened that along with the toe/camber changes. Camber was changed to help the rears live longer.
Rear spring raised in coalition with rear toe change.(to keep the rear in line, particularly the right hander at turn 4-5)
 
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CSLACR

I love the Lotus and will try it soon. Mine actually is optioned very much if not exactly like yours.:cool:

In case it did not cross your mind, there is another Elise that might work for Exige duty. I'm not sure about the line for the Exige but the Elise I speak of may work well for you.;)

It's the 99 Motor Sport Elise. Even though a standard it's pretty sweet.
Rock on Bro. :cheers:
 
RE Amemiya FD35 RX-7 - Universal
rx7gy.jpg


Build 1: 479/1240/568/RH-RS
Chassis Reinforcement
Titanium Racing Exhaust + High RPM Turbo



Aero:
20/35

Transmission:
Reset to Default (Without any upgrades applied)
Set top speed to 2 clicks right from minimum
3880
2890
2270
1810
1475
1240
Final gear: 2.500
Shift 500RPM before shift light.(with high turbo, lower is probably even earlier)

LSD:
8/15/5(RH) - 8/16/5(RM) - 9/17/5(RS)

Suspension:
-11/-3
14.4/15.6
7/7
5/5
4/4

Camber/Toe:
1.8/1.2 Or 2.4/1.6
-0.05/+0.02

Brakes:
BB: 5/4
ABS: 1


Comments: Fun car. :) Either camber setting works, lower is easier on tires than higher.
 
Volkswagon Golf IV '01 - Universal
44445057.jpg


Build 1: 218/1065/425
Weight Reduction Stage 3 / Window
Engine Stage 3
Sports ECU & Cat + Racing Muffler


Aero:
N/A

Transmission:
Reset to Default (Without any upgrades applied)
Set top speed to minimum
3513
2585
2010
1565
1240
Final gear: 2.850

LSD:
9/15/5(SH) - 9/17/5(SS)
LSD is pretty tire specific with this car. I aim to have the inside wheel turn pink a little before the outside on low speed corners. This helps the cornering at higher speeds.


Suspension:
-10/-10
9.2/5.5
5/8
7/3
3/2

Camber/Toe:
2.2/1.0
-0.15/-0.35

Brakes:
BB: 4/6
ABS: 1


volkswagen-golf-18-02.jpg


Build 2: 258/1100/450
Weight Reduction Stage 3 / Window
Engine Stage 3, Low RPM Turbo
Sports ECU, Cat, & Exhaust Manifold + Racing Muffler & Air Filter - PL @ 97.7%


Ballast: 35@50(rear)

Transmission:
Final gear: 2.730

Suspension:
10.1/6.4


Additional Variations:
1150KG - Ballast 85@50 - Spring rate to 10.5/7.6
Racing Tires - Raise Spring rates 10-20%, Raise LSD to 9/18/5 for RH, 10/20/5 for RS.
 
Springs
Generally speaking I set my springs based on weight distribution, for example, this VW Golf has a natural balance of 63/37. 6.3/3.7. To increase by 10%, you would add 6 to the front and 4 to the rear. 6.9/4.1. To add 10 percent more, 7 and 4, 7.6/4.5, etc.
the numbers do get slightly skewed making big changes this way, so I'll either go with exact double (12.6/7.4) or 1.5 (9.5/5.6)
All equally balanced setups, different level of stiffness.

Weight balance/ballast
Adding 35KG to the rear, I changed the car balance to 61/39. This changes the original numbers (6.3/3.7) to 6.1/3.9. On the 1150KG setup, balance is up to 57/43. By keeping in line with this principle, I generally make no other changes when adding ballast. Of course depending on the car and nature of ballast placement, you may need to do more to retain the same handling when you add ballast, but this is what I believe is the proper place to start, and it's how I do it every time.
I moved away from this technique while "learning" GT5's tuning, but since I've gone back to it I find it just as good as I did in all previous GT titles.

Actual Spring Rate Used
Different spring rates affect different cars differently. A LOT.
Lighter cars don't do well with overly stiff springs, heavy cars don't do well with soft spring. The same applies with downforce and grade of tires used. An F1 car might use 20.0/20.0 due to RS tires and high downforce, but a stock Elise would bounce around the track despite it's extra weight.
Because of all this it's impossible to make "universal" settings in the line of stiffness. What works great on SS tires at Motegi probably doubles for RS on Nurburgring, but would be too bouncy and harsh if you kept the SS tires.
this is why I have started and will continue to offer different variations depending on weight, tire grade and even downforce.
 
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CSLACR here is a qutoe from your front page "I only add chassis stiffening to very loose cars, and on under-steering cars" Do you really add to understeering cars I thoguth adding chassie stiffnes just made cars push a little more. Can it help loosen a car up as well??
 
CSLACR here is a qutoe from your front page "I only add chassis stiffening to very loose cars, and on under-steering cars" Do you really add to understeering cars I thoguth adding chassie stiffnes just made cars push a little more. Can it help loosen a car up as well??
No, I probably screwed something up in one of my many copy and paste jobs.
I list chassis reinforcement on every tune I use it with, and it's all cars that require positive rear toe.(Or would without extreme other settings, etc)

Just as a general rule, if you need positive toe, you should have chassis reinforcement. Positive toe is a tool for intentionally making a car rotate less, so if you're using it, that means you want less rotation. At least that's my logic. :)

Retrieved/Fixed:
Chassis: I only add chassis stiffening to very loose cars. As a general rule, if a car requires positive toe, I'll install the reinforcement.
On heavily under-steering cars, I'll usually not refresh an old chassis either, the extra rotation gained from chassis flex is beneficial, not harmful to these cars.
Chassis refresh does NOT wear out for 3,000 miles!
It makes sense now.👍
 
CSLACR
No, I probably screwed something up in one of my many copy and paste jobs.
I list chassis reinforcement on every tune I use it with, and it's all cars that require positive rear toe.(Or would without extreme other settings, etc)

Just as a general rule, if you need positive toe, you should have chassis reinforcement. Positive toe is a tool for intentionally making a car rotate less, so if you're using it, that means you want less rotation. At least that's my logic. :)

Retrieved/Fixed: It makes sense now.👍

Yes it makes sense to me now. Thx
 
Mercedes CLK Touring Car '00
Will get picture when less lazy.

Tuned @ Nurburgring.

625HP - 1000KG - 648PP - RS Tires
Fully Loaded, no chassis reinforcement.


Aero:
Suspension:
50 / 70
-5 / -5​
Gears:
14.9 / 12.2​
Default
4/3​
Top Speed to 155
5/4​
3800
6/5​
2800
Camber/Toe:
2240
2.3 / 1.5​
1680
+0.05 / +0.10​
1275
Brakes:
980
BB: 7/6​
Final: 2500
ABS: 1​
LSD:

8/8/7


Notes:

Hey Dom!

I know this tune was technically listed in your offline section, but I used it with pretty good success this week in GTP WRS-Online : Event 47 : The Grip Meister and got a podium (EU) and a win (NA) with it. 👍 I didn't use the transmission (as the offline tranny developed by EDK for the WRS-TT worked well), but I used everything else from your tune. Very stable online, decent on tires and fast to boot. Thanks!

Note: With R3 tires and the specs for the race (465 HP - no stage 3 or other upgrades) I could basically get two laps per set (and nobody did 3 anyway). My best two lap stint including pitting on the first lap was (16:25 = 8:25 + 8:00) on low fuel of course.

-Tim

PS> In September we are going to have our one year anniversary 3D3 event. Since you were one of the "original 8" I was hoping to recruit you to participate in that event. :cheers:
 
Hey Dom!

I know this tune was technically listed in your offline section, but I used it with pretty good success this week in GTP WRS-Online : Event 47 : The Grip Meister and got a podium (EU) and a win (NA) with it. 👍 I didn't use the transmission (as the offline tranny developed by EDK for the WRS-TT worked well), but I used everything else from your tune. Very stable online, decent on tires and fast to boot. Thanks!

Note: With R3 tires and the specs for the race (465 HP - no stage 3 or other upgrades) I could basically get two laps per set (and nobody did 3 anyway). My best two lap stint including pitting on the first lap was (16:25 = 8:25 + 8:00) on low fuel of course.

-Tim

PS> In September we are going to have our one year anniversary 3D3 event. Since you were one of the "original 8" I was hoping to recruit you to participate in that event. :cheers:
This is actually great to hear , a lot of the older tunes I worry need updating , which I know already would involve just re-making the whole tune, so, that's how that's going.:lol:
Great to hear you liked it and did well , long time no race. :(

I am getting back into online racing a bit more , so if I can make the date/time , I'll be there.👍


Belated happy Birthday to you and your garage :dunce::dunce::cheers:
Thanks, I only know because I saw krenkme saying it.:lol:
 
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Hey Dom,

I realize you're probably pretty busy but, would you take a look at tuning the Isuzu 4200R Concept '89 for the current a-spec seasonal? 420pp with CS tires. If you don't have it I can send it or put it up for share.

I didn't think I was this bad at this :grumpy::banghead: but my best time with this thing at Tsukuba has been in the 09s and good for only second place with still about 15 secs from first. It has massive over-steer in stock form with those tires. I've been tinkering with it for a few hours now, slapped the chassis re-inforcement on it and set the rear toe to +30, softened the spring rates some, added full ballast and shifted 5 to the rear (don't know if this is something that is useful for helping keep the rear planted or not but tried it anyway if for nothing else to help get the PP down along with limiting power) and it's still slinging the rear out bad if I go in the least bit hot or try to exit with much more than maintenance power.

At any rate, if you wouldn't mind bending your skill and talent to this thing, I would appreciate it.

And Happy Birthday to your garage as well. 👍
 
Hey Dom,

I realize you're probably pretty busy but, would you take a look at tuning the Isuzu 4200R Concept '89 for the current a-spec seasonal? 420pp with CS tires. If you don't have it I can send it or put it up for share.

I didn't think I was this bad at this :grumpy::banghead: but my best time with this thing at Tsukuba has been in the 09s and good for only second place with still about 15 secs from first. It has massive over-steer in stock form with those tires. I've been tinkering with it for a few hours now, slapped the chassis re-inforcement on it and set the rear toe to +30, softened the spring rates some, added full ballast and shifted 5 to the rear (don't know if this is something that is useful for helping keep the rear planted or not but tried it anyway if for nothing else to help get the PP down along with limiting power) and it's still slinging the rear out bad if I go in the least bit hot or try to exit with much more than maintenance power.

At any rate, if you wouldn't mind bending your skill and talent to this thing, I would appreciate it.

And Happy Birthday to your garage as well. 👍
I believe I have one, but I'll let you know.

Key note - move the weight forward if anything , not backwards.
Sounds like a wild child, so I'm interested. Probably more of a quick base tune though , I have quite a few tunes "halfway" done. Quick base tunes that serve almost as well take 20 minutes, full tunes take 4 hours.:ouch:

Gonna start focusing on actual race-used tunes , base tunes , and replicas. :) And requests , of course.(If reading , the Camaro and NSX are mostly there. Motor Sport Elise found in UCD as well)
 
Gonna start focusing on actual race-used tunes , base tunes , and replicas. :) And requests , of course.(If reading , the Camaro and NSX are mostly there. Motor Sport Elise found in UCD as well)

YESSSSSSSSS;)

Here's hoping you develop a "THING" for the Motor Sport Elise.:tub:

And happy birthday :)
 
Chevrolet Camaro SS '10 RM - Online - Track Specific
ahrweilertownsquarea.jpg


Build:
Stock - Racing Modified - No Chassis Rigidity.


Deep Forest

Aero:
35/60

Transmission:
Reset to Default (Without any upgrades applied)
Set top speed to 124(Min)
3951
3120
2550
2095
1733
1470
Final gear 2.200

LSD:
9/17/5

Suspension:
8/15
9.0/8.5
6/5
5/5
3/3

Camber/Toe:
2.4/1.0
-0.07/-0.33

Brakes:
BB: 3/4
ABS: 1



Laguna Seca

Aero:
35/60

Transmission:
Reset to Default (Without any upgrades applied)
Set top speed to 124(Min)
3951
3120
2550
2095
1733
1470
Final gear 2.300

LSD:
9/18/5

Suspension:
0/9
9.4/9.4
6/6
5/5
3/3

Camber/Toe:
2.4/1.6
-0.03/0.00

Brakes:
BB: 5/5
ABS: 1



Nurburgring GP/F

Aero:
35/60

Transmission:
Set Final Gear to 3.200
Set top speed to Minimum
4260
3400
2750
2240
1869
1585
Final gear 2.000

LSD:
8/18/5

Suspension:
10/10
10.0/8.5
7/5
3/5
2/2

Camber/Toe:
2.4/1.2
-0.10/-0.50

Brakes:
BB: 4/3
ABS: 1



Twin Ring Motegi

Aero:
35/60

Transmission:
Set Final Gear to 3.200
Set top speed to Minimum
4260
3370
2750
2240
1869
1585
Final gear 2.000

LSD:
8/16/5

Suspension:
0/0
15.0/15.0
9/8
4/6
6/6

Camber/Toe:
2.4/1.0
-0.10/-0.40

Brakes:
BB: 4/3
ABS: 1
 
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So I decided to put all the track specific tunes in one grouping per car for cars with multiple track specific tunes, rather than having separate posts/links for each one.
 
Audi R8 Race Car Team Playstation (Oreca) '05
4084686543_d577ed4acc_o.jpg


Tuned for seasonals.

789HP - 950KG - 705PP - RS Tires

Aero:
Suspension:
60 / 85
+5 / -5​
Gears:
14.8 / 15.8​
Default
7 / 7​
Top Speed 162
5 / 5​
Move
6 / 6​
Final
Camber/Toe:
To
2.2 / 1.0​
240 MPH
0.00 / +0.25​
Top
Brakes:
Right. :)
BB: 8/5​
LSD:
ABS:2​
9 / 13 / 9

Great tune... Thanks!!!
 
CSLACR
I believe I have one, but I'll let you know.

Key note - move the weight forward if anything , not backwards.
Sounds like a wild child, so I'm interested. Probably more of a quick base tune though , I have quite a few tunes "halfway" done. Quick base tunes that serve almost as well take 20 minutes, full tunes take 4 hours.:embarrassed:uch

Tried that seasonal again last night. The Tsukuba race is nuts. Tried for an hour or so with this and a couple of other cars and couldn't get closer than 12 secs from the rabbit. Checked the seasonal forums and saw quite a few others were having a similar experience. Grabbed that Honda racecar they spoke of and tuned it some, finally got the weak grid and beat that somneybeach. Put that hateful FF car away and got the izzy concept back out for the rest. Tweaked a couple more settings and took off for the next race, grand valley I think, and beat that on second try. This car definitely rewards deft throttle control. The next race I was painfully reminded that I don't like London. Kept saying "ok last try and I'm goin to bed". Apparently, to my lizard brain that translates to, "yer gettin' close, do it again". Got that one won after more tries than I want to admit to, but considerably less than tsukuba. After a few tries, I was actually started to like driving this car at London. Glad I beat it shortly after that, I really don't want to like this track. It was pretty late last night, or really early this morning by this time, depending on how you want to look at it, but only 2 races left in the series, sarthe was next so I bumped the final down/longer, to get the top speed to 150, I think, and rolled out. I surprised myself a little and actually drove a smooth race, no lawn mowing or shell grubbing excursions (you know how I am). and beat that one first try. It probably helped that I was tired and I've done the 24hr race there already and know my trouble spots. Mt. Aso is next. Plan to post my tune for the car tonight for your amusement and critique. :nervous:

Since my request regarding a tune for this car was specifically for this seasonal and it appears I've got it done now for the most part, feel free, if you haven't already, to stick this skillet on the way back burner. I do like this car and would still like to see what you can do with it, but only if you're still interested in messin' with it.

:cheers:
 
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