Tips for FWD driver learning RWD?

So, I’ve been driving and learning in GT5 for a week or two (new to the game, and the series), and didn’t think anything of drivetrain layouts till I got a car that handled funny (back end kept swinging out), and turns out it’s because it’s RWD and I’d been driving FWD vehicles all along.

So, any advice for a FWD driver taking the RWD wheel? (Please don’t get all smug and preachy about the virtues of RWD vs FWD, I’ve read enough of that already. Whether (and if so, when) I switch to RWD is up to me. What I’m after is advice on how to.)

Based on what I’ve been reading and contemplating: to my understanding, the main difference (in terms of what the driver needs to do) is that with FWD, you brake during the turn, while with RWD, you brake before the turn. Is that basically the right idea? (And if so, what about 4WD?)

Also, my main reason for posting to a forum rather than simply hitting the track and figuring it out for myself: I’d like a pair of vehicles, where one is FWD and the other is RWD (specifically, FF and FR), but which are otherwise as similar as possible, for a more controlled/direct comparison between FWD and RWD handling. Any suggestions?

In fact, I had the idea to take a 4WD vehicle and adjust the front/rear torque proportion, figuring it’d be perfect for what I’m after; and I happened to have one in my garage! But it only lets me adjust in the range of 50:50 to 35:65, rather than 100:0 (full FWD) to 0:100 (full RWD). Are there 4WD vehicles that let you adjust this in the full range, or is that the range of all 4WD vehicles in the game generally?

And as long as I’m posting: are there any open field tracks/places where I can just drive around and try/practice things (such as drifting), without a lap timer or closed roadways or other such race-centric structure to it? Or am I stuck using regular tracks for everything?

(And, hello!)

Before I try to help, are you using a wheel? If so which one? Or standard remote?

Standard-issue DualShock 3, though with steering sensitivity at its lowest value (-2) and using L2/R2 for brakes/accelerator. (I’m off-genre enough as it is with this game, I’m not invested in it enough to think of getting a wheel.)

It’s also blue, in case that matters.

MistyRainne

It’s also blue, in case that matters.

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^this cracked me up


To answer some of your questions.

Steering sensitivity: +1-2

FWD & RWD comparison cars: I would say none, going from two different drivetrains and a big change in itself, tho I highly recommend using a medium powered RWD car rather the a low powered one to get that real sense of the RWD drivetrain.

4WD center split: No 4WD car can switch to 0/100 tho most will adjust to 10/90 with the purchase of the 4WD "torque sensing center differential" ..

Cars to use to start with:
4WD: I recommend the Nissan GTR '07, medium-high power and very manageable! Can also add body panels for downforce at the GT Auto shop!

RWD: I recommend the premium 2010 Camaro SS for starters, once you get use to the way RWD responses, Race Mod it at the GT Auto shop for something a little more "high performance".

RWD: another good option is the Lexus LFA, not very "torquey" an the power comes in steady through its vast RPM's.


Driving with RWD: Oversteer and Downforce(when available) ARE your friend! You can check the tuning section of this forum for a good setup, a couple of "personal" notes: I recommend that you set your LSD to 5,5,5 and slowly increase it in small increments up to 17,40,35.. When set at 5,5,5 it will give you practically NO oversteer but you will have problems getting power to the ground..
Once you start increasing the differential setting you will have to focus more on throttle control (I personally use the right Joystick for gas and brake for this, but I hear L2 and R2 are substantial). And like I said before Maximum Downforce.. You can start decreasing downforce once you are comfortable with RWD to obtain more speed!
You can add downforce via the GT Auto shop by adding spoilers etc. The Camaro once Race modded will have substantial downforce 👍


Braking RWD: Yes, I would brake before the corner and coast into the apex then accelerate out (for starters).. Also I recommend you adjust the Brake Balance to 6 in the front and 4 in the rear with ABS set on 2.. THEN With that setting it allows me to brake before AND into the corner where I am slowed down to the correct speed just a few yards before the apex, then accelerate out. (Don't forget throttle control )


Braking AWD: Yes these cars are 4WD but power still like to go to the back wheels. With that being said I recommend the near opposite brake balance, 3-4in the front and 6-7 in the rear and ABS on 1. When braking you will brake before the turn and about 30% into the turn, with that brake balance when you reach near that 30% your back end will start sliding out, BUT this in turn has your front tires pointing the correct direction! Also you have more grip with AWD so I "personally" start accelerating just right before the apex, then power out!

So to put all this into perspective.
Brake: before corner and up to 30%into turn (late braking).
Coast or low throttle 30%-45% of turn.
Medium throttle 45-55% (through apex).
Full throttle: from apex and out of corner!


Best practice track: In my opinion Top Gear Test Track, it has the most open space and is obtained by beating the first Top Gear event. If you need help on that it can easy be found in this forum or on YouTube!

I hope all this helps as I typed it all up on mobile and I've been at it for a while lol, it you want a casual calm practice run feel free to add me on PSN: jgancherjr. Good luck! ~Jay~

Well, blue symbolizes youth, spirituality, truth and peace.
Blue is also the calming color.

Oh and this:

Put some blue in your life when you want:

calm and relaxation to counteract chaos or agitation
to open the flow of communication
to broaden your perspective in learning new information
solitude and peace

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Perhaps you want to paint it red?
Because red symbolizes action, confidence, courage and vitality.


So does it matter? I don't know.

Here's a tip: try playing the game with sensitivity set to 7. It will let you control your cars with more immediacy.

try to practice a FULL STOCK S2000 and also practice the throttle and braking control, the exit speed in any turn on a MR,FR car is cautious. try not to exit with full acceleration cuz it will go wild

add me i can give you some good FR cars like S2000 R1 powerhouse amuse it really have a good suspension setting and speed

jgancherjr

FWD & RWD comparison cars: I would say none, going from two different drivetrains and a big change in itself

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I know it’s a pretty big difference, which is why I wanted a FWD and RWD that were otherwise similar, so that the difference between them reflects just the difference between FWD and RWD. That was the idea, anyway. I suppose it’s not crucial, though; it doesn’t take me more than a lap or two to get the general feel of one FWD car after driving another.

jgancherjr

RWD: I recommend the premium 2010 Camaro SS for starters, once you get use to the way RWD responses, Race Mod it at the GT Auto shop for something a little more "high performance".

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I got it, on your recommendation. It’s certainly a different experience, RWD and all!

jgancherjr

So to put all this into perspective.
Brake: before corner and up to 30%into turn (late braking).
Coast or low throttle 30%-45% of turn.
Medium throttle 45-55% (through apex).
Full throttle: from apex and out of corner!

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I’ll have to try that. I’ve taken the Camaro for a few laps around a long winding custom course I often use, which has a variety of turns in different situations.
With FWD, I normally just charge right on into the turns and gently brake during the first half or so, then switch to acceleration once I feel I can get the rest of the way through it without having to brake again.
When doing most of the braking first (with RWD), it feels like I’m taking the turns too timidly, like I’m conceding to the turn and so I slow down enough to take it at a pace that anything could do it at. But if I take them more aggressively, I tend to find myself going through them sideways then either plowing straight into the inner wall (if I don’t fight the drift) or the outer wall (if I do).

Your instructions sound to me like “drive it like FWD, but more gently on the pedals”. Which sounds doable, but also kinda pointless: FWD can (and normally does) do the same thing but more whole-heartedly.

I’d like to avoid trying to get a RWD vehicle to merely imitate FWD handling; if I want FWD handling, I have actual FWD vehicles – with lovely blue color schemes! – at my disposal.
What makes RWD the preferred drivetrain for high-performance driving in its own right? I believe that races are decided in cornering, not straights (anyone can simply hold down the accelerator); so if RWD is more popular for racing, then it must be more popular for cornering. I’d like to learn to unlock its potential and drive it on its own terms.

(Partly out of curiosity, but mostly because FWD isn’t represented among the high-end vehicles. If I had a 600+ PP FWD vehicle at hand, I’d just use that in A-spec!)

For example, while reading about RWD on the web, I’ve heard mention of “throttle steering”, which seems to be a notion unique to RWD. What’s that about?

jgancherjr

Best practice track: In my opinion Top Gear Test Track, it has the most open space and is obtained by beating the first Top Gear event. If you need help on that it can easy be found in this forum or on YouTube!

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The one with the VW buses? It took me several tries just to get through it at all without getting disqualified at Hammerhead! I’ll have to take another shot at it, then; I’d like to have that track at hand to use at will!

I have yet to lay hands on any suspension or LSD settings, figuring I don’t know what I’m doing enough to have any business fiddling with those. But, I’ll give it a shot.

1241Penguin

Here's a tip: try playing the game with sensitivity set to 7. It will let you control your cars with more immediacy.

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Well, in my experience, RWD often spins out if I apply steering and acceleration at the same time, especially at lower gears. Perhaps higher sensitivity would help me fight the spinout better, but I’d need to have quicker reflexes anyway, to be able to know which way to go and then do so without overcorrecting. And I figure, the objective isn’t to be able to routinely fight my way out of a spinout, but to not get into them in the first place.

Otherwise, controller sensitivity is just personal preference, isn’t it? I can get the thumbstick from one side to the other easily enough. (I’m assuming it still has full range regardless of sensitivity, that sensitivity just determines whether it’s the low-steering or high-steering parts that get the most precision. If that assumption is wrong, though – if low sensitivity also means I can’t turn the wheels as far – then I’ll gladly increase it!)

Guess there’s a lot of practice and fiddling to do. Thanks for the responses. I’m not looking to add anyone on PSN yet, but I’ll keep the option in mind.

Someone send him a yellowbird.

He'll learn pretty quick.

kingstang5oh

Someone send him a yellowbird.

He'll learn pretty quick.

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Or not, personally would get depressed driving that car. I don't think you can ever feel entirely safe/certain driving that car.

I wouldn't suggest any RR or MR personally, some of them in GT5 feel unstable, which is probably normal due to their different weight placement.


I'd also suggest a car like the Honda S2000, or an Mazda RX-8. It's nothing extreme yet enjoyable enough. Could also suggest the Toyota FT-86 (or one of it's copies), almost never spins a wheel when you don't want it to.
I guess it somewhat depends on what PP range you're used to as well.

There is no reason why you shouldn't be able to brake going into a turn with RWD, it's just that if you use too much brake the back will step out rather than the front drifting wide. FWD will let you get away with a lot, they can be grabbed by the scruff of the neck and thrown around and still get round the track at a decent pace. Try that with a RWD and it'll spit you out of the first corner backwards.

The key with RWDs is precision and it takes a while to learn. You'll need to learn throttle control and feeling the limit of grip, countersteering and also effectively trailbraking (if you haven't already). Unlike others I would recommend a lower powered RWD but preferably something not too stable like the RX-8 or S2000 (stick with the stock tyres don't use super grippy ones) and just practise, practise, practise. Ultimately practice is the only thing that will help you. 👍

kingstang5oh

He'll learn pretty quick.

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I do have a lot of learning to do! But so do you.

Anyhow, I’ll keep car suggestions in mind, but I want to learn about how to drive, not what to drive. I don’t want to spend a bunch of effort (and credits) compensating for RWD’s weaknesses compared to FWD, I want to learn RWD’s strengths compared to FWD, and what I need to do differently to harness that strength.

Most of the FWD cars in my garage are around 350 PP. The hottest one I have is a Toyota Yaris (my first car!) with a bunch of upgrades that put it at 402 PP. The others could probably be upgraded to a similar level; but it’s one thing to invest in upgrades for one vehicle, and quite another to do so for every new addition to my garage, so I’ve been avoiding that.

I managed to win the Top Gear challenge with the VW SambaBuses (even I can tell those things seriously need tighter gear ratios!) after a few tries to get a feel for just what it’ll let me get away with on the track without incurring the wrath of the Disqualification God or having to be a very tame racing driver.

I’ll take it for a spin shortly; while looking over the A-Spec events, one of the few general-purpose ones at my skill level is the FR Challenge. I’d gotten a Ford F-150 for that, but never did well. My shiny new Camaro out-PPs the “typical opponents” there, so hopefully that can make up for my relative inexperience with RWDs!

MistyRainne

I do have a lot of learning to do! But so do you.

Anyhow, I’ll keep car suggestions in mind, but I want to learn about how to drive, not what to drive. I don’t want to spend a bunch of effort (and credits) compensating for RWD’s weaknesses compared to FWD, I want to learn RWD’s strengths compared to FWD, and what I need to do differently to harness that strength.

Most of the FWD cars in my garage are around 350 PP. The hottest one I have is a Toyota Yaris (my first car!) with a bunch of upgrades that put it at 402 PP. The others could probably be upgraded to a similar level; but it’s one thing to invest in upgrades for one vehicle, and quite another to do so for every new addition to my garage, so I’ve been avoiding that.

I managed to win the Top Gear challenge with the VW SambaBuses (even I can tell those things seriously need tighter gear ratios!) after a few tries to get a feel for just what it’ll let me get away with on the track without incurring the wrath of the Disqualification God or having to be a very tame racing driver.

I’ll take it for a spin shortly; while looking over the A-Spec events, one of the few general-purpose ones at my skill level is the FR Challenge. I’d gotten a Ford F-150 for that, but never did well. My shiny new Camaro out-PPs the “typical opponents” there, so hopefully that can make up for my relative inexperience with RWDs!

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What the hell is that supposed to mean.

Here's a crazy idea. How about you drive the cars and learn on your own. Do you want us to put training wheels on your bicycle too?

I think this has useful information for a beginner.http://jalopnik.com/5932661/how-to-adjust-your-driving-for-rear+wheel-front+wheel-and-all+wheel+drive-cars

FordMKIVJ5

FWD will let you get away with a lot, they can be grabbed by the scruff of the neck and thrown around and still get round the track at a decent pace.

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That’s exactly what I love about FWD cars. RWD seems so... fussy. There’s got to be some payoff for it, though, and that’s what I’m hoping to tap into.

FordMKIVJ5

The key with RWDs is precision and it takes a while to learn. You'll need to learn throttle control and feeling the limit of grip, countersteering and also effectively trailbraking (if you haven't already).

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Countersteering? I looked this up on Wikipedia, and it seems to be a bicycle/motorcycle thing made to induce lean by exploiting centrifugal force. Wouldn’t this be of limited usefulness for a car, as the initial lean (into the turn) gets quickly undone by the process of doing through the turn? Or is it just a more localized version of the notion of starting a turn from the outside (“out-in-out”)?
Besides, quick flicks of steering under power sounds like a great way to spin out in a RWD! Heck, that’s the normal way to quickly induce a slide in a FWD car!
💡 ...Maybe that’s why it works? I’ll have to try it on the Top Gear track.

Hi

See if you can get a copy of Gran Tursimo 1 or 2. The booklet with it explains the science behind the different drive trains and grip etc.
Or try the Apex book. I use a DS3 and find you need to be a lot more gentle with the throttle on exiting corners.
The tuning area will give you good set ups for most cars.
Enjoy the game.

MistyRainne

That’s exactly what I love about FWD cars. RWD seems so... fussy. There’s got to be some payoff for it, though, and that’s what I’m hoping to tap into.

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Personally, I find RWD/MR cars more rewarding to drive, as others have said : it requires more precision to keep the pace up. My advice ( again, as others have said before ) : practice,practice, repeat ad infinitum.
As for MR cars to be too jittery, my first decent MR was a NSX Type R '02 and once it got the hang of it, every other car FR car was a doodle to drive ( in the same performance ball-park that is )

MistyRainne

Countersteering? I looked this up on Wikipedia, and it seems to be a bicycle/motorcycle thing made to induce lean by exploiting centrifugal force. Wouldn’t this be of limited usefulness for a car, as the initial lean (into the turn) gets quickly undone by the process of doing through the turn? Or is it just a more localized version of the notion of starting a turn from the outside (“out-in-out”)?
Besides, quick flicks of steering under power sounds like a great way to spin out in a RWD! Heck, that’s the normal way to quickly induce a slide in a FWD car!
💡 ...Maybe that’s why it works? I’ll have to try it on the Top Gear track.

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As for countersteering : http://www.drivingfast.net/car-control/oversteer.htm#.Uaznl0Awc54

It explained quite simple, but not too simple AND more importantly : easily applicable in practice 👍

All of that being said : welcome to the world of GT 👍

MistyRainne

So, any advice for a FWD driver taking the RWD wheel? (Please don’t get all smug and preachy about the virtues of RWD vs FWD, I’ve read enough of that already. Whether (and if so, when) I switch to RWD is up to me. What I’m after is advice on how to.)

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Practice.

Get used to power-on oversteer. You'll have to modulate the throttle coming out of corners. As long as the car isn't too twitchy, you can use this to your advantage, as the oversteer can help the car rotate to get pointed for the straight. The ability to use throttle to help steer the car is why most people love a well-balanced FR or MR car, though there are a few FFs that handle well enough to be fun to drive.

It takes practice to get used to the behavior and integrate it into your driving.

Based on what I’ve been reading and contemplating: to my understanding, the main difference (in terms of what the driver needs to do) is that with FWD, you brake during the turn, while with RWD, you brake before the turn. Is that basically the right idea? (And if so, what about 4WD?)

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Not really. In fact, I'd say it's the other way around. It's easier to trail brake with RWD because they tend less toward understeer and you can use the throttle to help rotate the car. With FWD, the car has a greater tendency toward understeer, and you can't use the throttle to move the back end around and recover your line. (In real life, you can induce oversteer in a FWD by lifting off the throttle, sometimes, but as far as I can tell GT5 does a very poor job of modeling this.) [Edit: I just read the upthread Jalopnik post... I'm not sure if his strategy works with FWD cars in GT5, because I think they have a significantly greater-than-real-life aversion to oversteer.]

Trail braking is a relatively advanced driving technique, though... I'd suggest that you get comfortable with straight line braking first, and when you have a handle on how the cars handle, then you can think about adding trail braking to your repertoire.

In GT5, depending on the F/R torque distribution, 4WD behaves mostly like FWD, except that I think it has an even greater tendency toward on-throttle understeer coming out of turns.

In fact, I had the idea to take a 4WD vehicle and adjust the front/rear torque proportion, figuring it’d be perfect for what I’m after; and I happened to have one in my garage! But it only lets me adjust in the range of 50:50 to 35:65, rather than 100:0 (full FWD) to 0:100 (full RWD). Are there 4WD vehicles that let you adjust this in the full range, or is that the range of all 4WD vehicles in the game generally?

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I'm pretty sure that when you equip the torque-sensing center differential, you can set the 4WD vehicles anywhere from 100:0 to 0:100. I know my preferred split is about 15:85 so that I can get a reasonable amount of oversteer.

And as long as I’m posting: are there any open field tracks/places where I can just drive around and try/practice things (such as drifting), without a lap timer or closed roadways or other such race-centric structure to it? Or am I stuck using regular tracks for everything?

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The latter, sort of... practice does allow a drift mode in addition to the usual lap time mode.

MistyRainne

Countersteering? I looked this up on Wikipedia, and it seems to be a bicycle/motorcycle thing made to induce lean by exploiting centrifugal force. Wouldn’t this be of limited usefulness for a car, as the initial lean (into the turn) gets quickly undone by the process of doing through the turn? Or is it just a more localized version of the notion of starting a turn from the outside (“out-in-out”)?
Besides, quick flicks of steering under power sounds like a great way to spin out in a RWD! Heck, that’s the normal way to quickly induce a slide in a FWD car!
💡 ...Maybe that’s why it works? I’ll have to try it on the Top Gear track.

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As in putting on opposite lock to catch a slide. If you're going to be driving RWDs a lot it's essential as you're guaranteed to make a mistake every now and then.

After reading Darkcraft’s link 👍 and with a bunch of laps around various tracks in the Camaro, I think I’m getting the hang of this. Basically, genuflect before each turn, don’t be afraid to tiptoe through it, and carefully accelerate through the turn and then even more carefully coming out of it; don’t floor it till the car is pointing in the desired direction and has no side momentum whatsoever. For a gentle turn, braking into it (FWD style) can induce some drift that isn’t difficult to recover from. That’s where I’m at now.

Practice has gone okay, but for reference, I went and held an actual race in Arcade Mode. The perspective helps: by myself, it feels like I’m going way too slowly, practically having to crawl through the corners, but in a race, so does everyone else. Yay?

So, RWD at least seems tolerable for the time being, though still feels awkward, like writing with the wrong hand, and unnecessarily difficult and backwards. (What’s next, rear-wheel steering?) However, when practicing at Laguna Seca, I still got a (slightly) better best-lap in my Yaris despite it being nearly 100 PP short of the Camaro. So, assuming PP accurately reflects performance potential, I still have some ways to go, looks like.

So, I guess this is the necessary slowdown before taking the next turn down the road in GT5. Hehe. And what a road it is.

If you want another good car to try check out the premium MK3 Supra. It is tough to drive without oversteer stock but is very controllable making for a great drifter and once you get tuning down it can actually be tamed enough to become a very formidable racer.

Add: big_noobowski924 I can put my tuned(~400hp) MK3 on share.

Do the A-Spec races and Seasonals and you will learn to drive all cars at all pp ranges.

MistyRainne

After reading Darkcraft’s link 👍 and with a bunch of laps around various tracks in the Camaro, I think I’m getting the hang of this. Basically, genuflect before each turn, don’t be afraid to tiptoe through it, and carefully accelerate through the turn and then even more carefully coming out of it; don’t floor it till the car is pointing in the desired direction and has no side momentum whatsoever.

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That's about right. You should start to get on the gas at the apex of the turn, but modulated to keep the car pointed where you want it. You can use a little extra throttle to induce mild oversteer to help the car rotate. As you exit, floor it as soon as the car is planted (figuring out when the car is planted is partly feel based on what it's doing at part throttle, partly experience). FWIW, I usually use a DS3, and my way of doing "part throttle" is rapid cycling of the X button.

I'm not sure how many PPs the Camaro has, I'd recommend aiming for somewhere in the 350 to 400 range to start out, as that will keep the power down to where the oversteer should be pretty mild. As you get more used to it, you can start pushing up to higher PPs.

Now this is messing up my FWD driving, it feels awkward and unresponsive to me, but I don’t know whether it’s because it is, or I’m over-compensating by making a point of driving anti-RWD-like rather than naturally, or something. I spent a pretty penny race-modding a Honda Integra (highest-PP FWD in the dealerships) and actually got tired of it before long.

Idly browsing the dealerships, I spied a Dodge Viper for 100,000, FR layout and 579 PP, and got it. Taking it for a (mostly-intentional) spin around Cape Ring, flying around corners by aiming inside the apex and hitting the accelerator to induce drift, using RWD’s handling properties rather than fighting them. It’s actually kinda fun now! Maybe someday I’ll break 3 minutes at Cape Ring, who knows. In any case, with upgrades, this thing should be enough to carry me through A-Spec for a while.

Now that my muscle memory is rewired, I wonder what kind of post I would make here if I were answering myself from 2 days ago...

MistyRainne

Now this is messing up my FWD driving, it feels awkward and unresponsive to me, but I don’t know whether it’s because it is, or I’m over-compensating by making a point of driving anti-RWD-like rather than naturally, or something. I spent a pretty penny race-modding a Honda Integra (highest-PP FWD in the dealerships) and actually got tired of it before long.

Idly browsing the dealerships, I spied a Dodge Viper for 100,000, FR layout and 579 PP, and got it. Taking it for a (mostly-intentional) spin around Cape Ring, flying around corners by aiming inside the apex and hitting the accelerator to induce drift, using RWD’s handling properties rather than fighting them. It’s actually kinda fun now! Maybe someday I’ll break 3 minutes at Cape Ring, who knows. In any case, with upgrades, this thing should be enough to carry me through A-Spec for a while.

Now that my muscle memory is rewired, I wonder what kind of post I would make here if I were answering myself from 2 days ago...

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FWD cars will always have the tendency to understeer whereas RWD will have to oversteer. If you are driving an overpowered RWD car and then switch to a FWD car you will feel the difference in responsiveness. That's normal.

Some RWD cars can be thrown through corners stock, and many RWD cars can withe the right suspension tuning. That Dodge Viper ACR you bought is one of the easiest cars to control in the 600BHP range, which makes it a fantatic car for getting used to higher BHP cars.

If you feel like trying a more... uncouth car at the same power, a Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 will probably do the trick. For me, the ultimate stock road car to get used to was the McLaren F1. I still struggle to drive it stock after 2 and a half years! Another car to try would be a TVR. They are RWD, but have an odd border between sports car and supercar. And they understeer a lot stock, so powersliding is often the best way to pull them around a corner in GT5, from my experience at least.

lbpomg95

For me, the ultimate stock road car to get used to was the McLaren F1. I still struggle to drive it stock after 2 and a half years!

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Same here, when I first bought one I was a fool.... I upgraded it to the max, didn't change the tyres and turned the TC off, what a mistake.
Stock it's an animal, fully tuned it requires a really, really precise throttle

Darkcraft

Same here, when I first bought one I was a fool.... I upgraded it to the max, didn't change the tyres and turned the TC off, what a mistake.
Stock it's an animal, fully tuned it requires a really, really precise throttle

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With the right setup, I love it fully tuned. I still love it stock. Wish I'd bought it earlier than I did, but it is a total handful.

lbpomg95

Another car to try would be a TVR. They are RWD, but have an odd border between sports car and supercar. And they understeer a lot stock, so powersliding is often the best way to pull them around a corner in GT5, from my experience at least.

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👍 TVRs can be challenging, but are great drives.

Power sliding is good fun, but wont be your quickest way: slow in fast out! A little bit of power induced oversteer is certainly good to rotate the car.

Tamora is a good one to try. Fast but not as wild as the Tuscan, well balanced and a really nice drive. I also like the V8S - it's a lot less powerful than the others but is good fun.

You can RM the Tuscan of course, but you might want to start looking at tunes to reduce the understeer.

Woodski_427

👍 You can RM the Tuscan of course, but you might want to start looking at tunes to reduce the understeer.

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My tuned versions are fine and dandy. The stock versions, when you don't kick the tail out, understeer more than most of their rivals, is what I'm saying.