What we know about chassis/engine maintenance

6 months later, this thread has been resurrected! NEW ANSWERS FOR NEW PATCHES!

The chassis of a car loses rigidity after being driven. Less rigidity means less grip/responsiveness and a slower car. Power varies over the life of an engine. When an engine makes less power than it started with you may choose to perform engine maintenance, which should restore it to its original power.

QUESTIONS:

Q. Is there any way to drive a car that exempts it from losing it's wash, dirtying the oil, engine wear, and rigidity loss?
A. You must be online and in a lobby on free run mode. There is no way to drive your car without wear offline anymore.

Q. Do collisions while driving in GT Life cause an additional loss of rigidity?
A. No.

Kaaosherra

It has been established long ago that these have nothing to do with crashing or in game damage. link

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Since there is plenty of free time behind the wheel of cars you don't have to pay for in licensees and challenges, this really shouldn't be an issue.

Q. What factors do figure in to loss of chassis rigidity?
A. Anything that causes shock to transfer between different springs and dampers, I would guess. Essentially, hitting bumps and dips hard, especially if you see the car jump suddenly will be the major contributors to chassis wear in real life. I could use a better educated answer here.

Q. What is the difference in lap time between a car that just became eligible for chassis maintenance, has been being driven needing maintenance for a long time, and has had the chassis maintenance performed?
A. Minimal?

CeeJay

I never once used the "rigidity" fix in GT4 and I never plan to use it in GT5. My Minolta Toyota has been through 3 endurance races, countless laps at Indy and has tons of miles on it and it still blows the competition away with no problems at all. Unless you're trying to shave milliseconds off a time trial time there really is no reason to do it. link

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After more than a few hours of playing with my maximum horsepower rx-7, I tryed racing it at full speed again. (I Had been driving lazy since I was just golding various events). It would randomly catastrophically lose traction, whereas earlier I could react to the power-over drifting that might occur when I push too hard and maintain my line. Chassis maintenance fixed this. So, playing for less than a day in GT Life WILL cause a car to become extremely unreliable. I do not know if there is a significant change in lap time. I may test this soon after using the RX-7 nonstop for several hours, then comparing the best lap times of half-hour practice sessions before and after chassis maintenance.

Somebody time trial a new car. Run it in an endurance, then time trial it again. then we'll be sure.

Q. Is there any way for a car to sustain a permanent loss of rigidity? (As in GT4 where you have 2 of the same car; one of them installs a rollcage new, the other installs a rollcage needing chassis maintenance)
A. I doubt it. Somebody will need to do time trials for this one too, though.

Q. Can a car always be restored to its maximum power potential by performing engine maintenance and an oil change?
A.

johnnyutah

1) Brought Formula Gran Turismo used, did oil change only. (unfortunately do not remember the HP just know it was under 935)

2) Did quite a few races in A and B-spec (more than 1000 miles) till it dropped to about 902 HP.

3) Performed engine maintenance, (and here is the muddy part) I believe it was after a few races that my HP went to 935 and not immediately after the maintenance (unfortunately I do not remember how much).

4) Did heavy endurance races and oil changing after each one.

5) Did engine maintenance, max HP was 932.

6) Continue to race and oil change after races, max HP still 932.

Conclusion: I think if your car is viable for engine maintenance and you run more than 500 miles on it you will lose permanent HP.

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A car that starts with 935 horsepower, and can only get a "permanent" loss of 3 horsepower doesn't seem right to me. Maybe an engine might slightly vary randomly in (maximum potential) power every time it's rebuilt?

Q. Does keeping the engine out of the redline prevent it from becoming available for engine maintenance?
A. No.

Q. Does keeping the engine RPMs low cause the engine to stay ineligible for engine maintenance for a longer period of time? (Slower loss of power)

Q. Does redlining the engine without hitting the rev-limiter cause it to become eligible for engine maintenance sooner? (Quicker loss of power)

Q. Does hitting the rev-limiter of the engine frequently, without redlining it for (approximately) more time than in the previous situation, cause it to become eligible for engine maintenance sooner? (Even quicker loss of power)

Q. What happens when a car is driven a long time without performing engine maintenance, although it is eligible?
A. Loss of power. (Could there be a change in the shape of the power&torque graph?)

Q. How much power has been lost when a car is first eligible for engine maintenance?
A. None.

minihulkster

I have a car I got new that has just over 1,000 miles on it and it still has the original amount of HP with fresh oil. I did an engine maintenance on it anyway just to confirm. So point number 1 is that engine maintenance becomes available before you start to permanently loose HP. link

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Q. How much power can ultimately be lost if the car continues to be driven without performing engine maintenance?
A. Your engine will drop to 9/10ths of it's original power without maintenance.

thedeester1

If you start with the Bhp after the overhaul then the maximum your car can lose is about 10%. If you start with the lower figure and work up an overhaul will give you an 11% increase in power. link

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You can drive a car in Arcade mode without affecting it's GT Mode status. You just go into your GT Mode garage, select the car and add it to your 'favourites'. I'm not sure about the other questions, sorry.

Hmm i will try a shot at some of them.

Soon as you drive a car it will be eligible for chassis maint. But that car will drive fine up until it gets "loose" you will not be able to drive the car normally, the car will slide out where you could push down the power, will spin out totally in turns etc. it is painfully obvious when you need to perform chassis maint. Top of my head i want to say about 300 to 400 miles driven you will start to see it get to the point where maint. will be necessary.

Engines also go out about the same time the body goes, but when they start to go they go slowly loosing like 1 or 2 hp gradually. Only way to really tell is pay attention to your HP and change oil when it does not go back up to max then you know you need to start looking at rebuilding it.

Beyond that not sure if careful driving will stave off the need to do this stuff i somehow doubt it. Other than the fact that careful driving will cover up the looseness of a car to a great degree, and cover up the fact that your not hitting speeds you normally could.

Well if GT5 is like GT4 then once a car has several thousand miles on it the engine becomes worn and drops a percentage of power. I can't remember the numbers but I think it was around 10 percent or so. Once the power was lost it stayed the same. I used to wear them out on purpose or buy cars already worn out in GT4 and drive them with dirty oil so I could get the most spec points in races and as a side effect the cars will not suffer power loss during a long race as they are already as weak as they will get.

I do not know if this is still the case in GT5 or if they will continue to wear and loose more power.

In real life if you keep your oil clean the engine will last longer whereas if you never change it the engine will fail much sooner.

As for the Chassis this is where the body twists and warps over time from hard corners and torque. When it gets bad enough your handling will be affected in an adverse way and your tires will start to wear unevenly. As far as I can tell this has to do with miles driven and not so much the way you drive or wreck.

The cost of each varies by car with the race cars and rare ones being the most expensive at 500k where some are rather cheap under 100k.

btw in GT4 it took about 5 hours of racing to warp the body without the rigidity kit installed and about 10 with it. So if you ran an 8 hour race without the ridigity kit your car would degrade in the race. In the 24 hour races it would degrade no matter what but not as early in the race as it would without the upgrade.

skywolf23

Soon as you drive a car it will be eligible for chassis maint.

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I figured. Another user on this forum said that he drove carefully and his car wasn't eligible for chassis maintenance in the Q&A forum a couple days back... Guess he lied.

skywolf23

But that car will drive fine up until it gets "loose" you will not be able to drive the car normally, the car will slide out where you could push down the power, will spin out totally in turns etc. it is painfully obvious when you need to perform chassis maint.

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Yeah, I've had this happen in my 500ish horsepower '91 rx-7. I'm glad it was less than 20,000cr for the chassis maintenance. I'm scared of driving expensive race cars hard, because of how drastic the change is.

BradKinder

I figured. Another user on this forum said that he drove carefully and his car wasn't eligible for chassis maintenance in the Q&A forum a couple days back... Guess he lied.



Yeah, I've had this happen in my 500ish horsepower '91 rx-7. I'm glad it was less than 20,000cr for the chassis maintenance. I'm scared of driving expensive race cars hard, because of how drastic the change is.

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Well i dunno if he lied i drive my cars lol, usually first thing i do is change the oil on cars i am going to use get some tires maybe a few upgrades and hit nurburg, not babied a car yet. So maybe being super careful with a car would keep it nice longer, would be a nice attention to detail. I just noticed that soon as i drive a lap or two i could pop into gt auto and check out the chassis repair and get a quote long long before the car actually needed one.

Worst repair i had to do was the enzo, something like 850,000, was using it in b spec to win some of the harder professional and expert races and pounded up the miles fast.

I was driving my Stealth Mercedes a lot, and it needed chassis maintenance and an engine rebuild way back at level 14 or something - long before the damage effects supposedly start. So I kind of doubt that damaging the car in races has much effect on when the maintenance is needed.

Maybe the guy who drove it once drove only a short race and added the rigidity upgrade which prolongs the life of the chassis and reduces the frequency in which the refresh is required. In GT4 it lasted about double the time with this upgrade.

Can anybody answer any of the questions in the first post yet?

Does practice mode in GT Life make it eligible? For example, I let my dad take my GTR around Nurburgring and of course he crashed a lot...

The damages when we do a test drive influence the wear of the car, or just in race?

With regard to chassis rigidity. Im not sure how it works in the game but since its there there may be some algorithm that works on mileage. In reality its mainly due to suspension bushes, degrading spings or degrading shock absorbers. The actual body of the car will also weaken over time from constant flexing. If you take a peice of sheet steel and flex it over and over it will start with a springy feel, do it more it will eventually stop in the place that it was bent into, keep doing it and it will break.

In the game I think it has to be the cars mileage*speed of the car. The more G a car can pull the more it will flex and the faster its rigidity will degrade. Pretty difficult to tell without seeing the code for the game though.

It does seem to make a difference with old classics bought though. I bought a Jenson Interceptor and it was sloppy till I did the chassis, or is it a placebo effect?

I did a test today for your thread. I bought 3 second hand cars and tried to see about your power loss problem. Well the first was a Golf it had the oil light on and had 100bhp. I drove it in a few championships and it still had 100 bhp so I fugured it wont go any lower. I then did an oil change and the bhp went to 105bhp. An Increase of 5%. Without then driving it I then did a Engine Overhaul and the Bhp came out at 111 bhp thats an Increase of 11% from our lowest bhp.

Second I bought a SEAT Ibiza cupre. It had 169bhp with the oil light on. I drove that also and couldnt get it to go any lower. This time I just did a straight engine overhaul as I figure they throw in the oil:idea:. Anyway After the overhaul the car comes out with 188 bhp thats a 19bhp increase. Now 11% of our original BHP is 18.59. so thats looking pretty much like 11% rounded up to the nearest bhp to me.

So Next i buy a Mazda MX5 Miata 1800rs. (sorry theyre all low end My save game crashed so I dont have any cash). Ok this come with 151bhp and the oil light on. Right same thing. Complete NR A roadster several times till sick. Cant get BHP any lower. Ok so of it goes for the engine overhaul and it comes back with 167bhp thats up 16bhp now 11% of 151 is 16.6 10 percent is only 15.1 so I sumise that its closer to 11% but rounded down for whatever reason (0.6 should round up).

This this is as close as I can work out. If you start with the Bhp after the overhaul then the maximum your car can lose is about 10%. If you start with the lower figure and work up an overhaul will give you an 11% increase in power.

If anyone can get any closer than that they have too much time to spare.

skywolf23

Soon as you drive a car it will be eligible for chassis maint. But that car will drive fine up until it gets "loose" you will not be able to drive the car normally, the car will slide out where you could push down the power, will spin out totally in turns etc. it is painfully obvious when you need to perform chassis maint. Top of my head i want to say about 300 to 400 miles driven you will start to see it get to the point where maint. will be necessary.

Engines also go out about the same time the body goes, but when they start to go they go slowly loosing like 1 or 2 hp gradually. Only way to really tell is pay attention to your HP and change oil when it does not go back up to max then you know you need to start looking at rebuilding it.

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Well then, will you please tell me why in the#!%*@!# would you not have the overhauls show up at an appropriate time interval and NOT after one short race.

The only answer I can come up with is D*****S.

I've spent hundreds of thousands of credits to rebuild both engine and chassis on cars that cost <50,000cr, have run exactly one lap on them and gone back to look at what one lap does only to see them both be at the max of 500,000cr. I have not spent a credit on chassis or engine rebuild since, and I won't until the feature is patched and fixed.

I only change oil and that is it...

I have 2 F-GTs, I did complete maintnance on them and have been letting my B-spec drivers drive the crap out of 1 of them in the level 26 endurance race. My goal is to run the car as far into the ground as possible. I want to see how run down a car can actually get. I will test track times when one F-GT reaches 5k then 10k. I plan on letting the same B-Spec driver run them both and compare lap times. I will be using the B-Spec drivers for the test because AI tend to be a lot more consistent on lap times than if I were to do it.

Even after all that, the most important things are still not clear!?

I think for the sake of everyone interested in these features....

Can you or can you not mess up the order in which you manage/drive a particular car, in a way that you PERMANENTLY end up with a lower bhp for a particular car than its maximum potential and be stuck with it even after an overhaul and oil change and tuning parts?

Another important question can you PERMANENTLY mess up a car with the restore body rigidity/restore body rigidity upgrades/racing modifications like you COULD in GT4?

Is the GT4 body chassis ridgigity glitch/feature, still in gt5, where if you didn't do it in the right way you mess up your car permanently?

I forget the particular details, but it was something like if you dont do the body rigidity upgrades at the right time, your car would be PERMANENTLY stuck with worse body rigidity no mater what you did to it, you would need to get another car, and it was a unique car you were stuffed forever.

I have noticed that with My Corvette ZR1, I did the body rigidity upgrade and drove it for a while BEFORE doing the racing modifications. However in the racing modifications screen it says ALL upgrades will be undone, but I noticed that the body rigidity upgrade was still LEFT OVER from before the racing modification.
This makes me wonder if the old pre race modified body rigidity was left over and locked in, and if it ends up different to doing a restore body rigidity, doing the racing modifications, and then adding the body rigidity upgrade in the tuning shop last.
WHat we need to know is Does any of this matter or in the end do you end up with exactly the same car and there is no way to mess up!
Because in gt4 this was not the case and you COULD mess up

Racin'Jason

Does practice mode in GT Life make it eligible

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Yes.

Lusitano

The damages when we do a test drive influence the wear of the car, or just in race?

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Practicing in GT Life wears out the chassis and the engine. You have to take your brand new car to arcade mode if you do not want to wear out the engine/chassis.

SuperCobraJet

Well then, will you please tell me why in the#!%*@!# would you not have the overhauls show up at an appropriate time interval and NOT after one short race.

The only answer I can come up with is D*****S.

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Nuck81

I've spent hundreds of thousands of credits to rebuild both engine and chassis on cars that cost <50,000cr, have run exactly one lap on them and gone back to look at what one lap does only to see them both be at the max of 500,000cr. I have not spent a credit on chassis or engine rebuild since, and I won't until the feature is patched and fixed.

I only change oil and that is it...

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We've all experienced this feeling. The engine and chassis will wear out little by little every time you drive the car. To improve either seems to be the cost of replacing/rebuilding them.

Shaggz

I have 2 F-GTs, I did complete maintnance on them and have been letting my B-spec drivers drive the crap out of 1 of them in the level 26 endurance race. My goal is to run the car as far into the ground as possible. I want to see how run down a car can actually get. I will test track times when one F-GT reaches 5k then 10k. I plan on letting the same B-Spec driver run them both and compare lap times. I will be using the B-Spec drivers for the test because AI tend to be a lot more consistent on lap times than if I were to do it.

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I look forward to your results.

xSNAKEx

Even after all that, the most important things are still not clear!?

I think for the sake of everyone interested in these features....

Can you or can you not mess up the order in which you manage/drive a particular car, in a way that you PERMANENTLY end up with a lower bhp for a particular car than its maximum potential and be stuck with it even after an overhaul and oil change and tuning parts?

Another important question can you PERMANENTLY mess up a car with the restore body rigidity/restore body rigidity upgrades/racing modifications like you COULD in GT4?

Is the GT4 body chassis ridgigity glitch/feature, still in gt5, where if you didn't do it in the right way you mess up your car permanently?

I forget the particular details, but it was something like if you dont do the body rigidity upgrades at the right time, your car would be PERMANENTLY stuck with worse body rigidity no mater what you did to it, you would need to get another car, and it was a unique car you were stuffed forever.

I have noticed that with My Corvette ZR1, I did the body rigidity upgrade and drove it for a while BEFORE doing the racing modifications. However in the racing modifications screen it says ALL upgrades will be undone, but I noticed that the body rigidity upgrade was still LEFT OVER from before the racing modification.
This makes me wonder if the old pre race modified body rigidity was left over and locked in, and if it ends up different to doing a restore body rigidity, doing the racing modifications, and then adding the body rigidity upgrade in the tuning shop last.
WHat we need to know is Does any of this matter or in the end do you end up with exactly the same car and there is no way to mess up!
Because in gt4 this was not the case and you COULD mess up

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I'll add your questions to the list.

I'm glad people are working on these issues, because I know everyone who starts playing GT5 have these same questions.

xSNAKEx

Even after all that, the most important things are still not clear!?

I think for the sake of everyone interested in these features....

Can you or can you not mess up the order in which you manage/drive a particular car, in a way that you PERMANENTLY end up with a lower bhp for a particular car than its maximum potential and be stuck with it even after an overhaul and oil change and tuning parts?

Another important question can you PERMANENTLY mess up a car with the restore body rigidity/restore body rigidity upgrades/racing modifications like you COULD in GT4?

Is the GT4 body chassis ridgigity glitch/feature, still in gt5, where if you didn't do it in the right way you mess up your car permanently?

I forget the particular details, but it was something like if you dont do the body rigidity upgrades at the right time, your car would be PERMANENTLY stuck with worse body rigidity no mater what you did to it, you would need to get another car, and it was a unique car you were stuffed forever.

I have noticed that with My Corvette ZR1, I did the body rigidity upgrade and drove it for a while BEFORE doing the racing modifications. However in the racing modifications screen it says ALL upgrades will be undone, but I noticed that the body rigidity upgrade was still LEFT OVER from before the racing modification.
This makes me wonder if the old pre race modified body rigidity was left over and locked in, and if it ends up different to doing a restore body rigidity, doing the racing modifications, and then adding the body rigidity upgrade in the tuning shop last.
WHat we need to know is Does any of this matter or in the end do you end up with exactly the same car and there is no way to mess up!
Because in gt4 this was not the case and you COULD mess up

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I have added the following questions...
Q. Is there any way for a car to sustain a permanent loss of rigidity? (As in GT4 where you have 2 of the same car; one of them installs a rollcage new, the other installs a rollcage needing chassis maintenance)
Q. Can a car always be restored to its maximum power potential by performing engine maintenance and an oil change?

Happy?

BradKinder

I have added the following questions...
Q. Is there any way for a car to sustain a permanent loss of rigidity? (As in GT4 where you have 2 of the same car; one of them installs a rollcage new, the other installs a rollcage needing chassis maintenance)
Q. Can a car always be restored to its maximum power potential by performing engine maintenance and an oil change?

Happy?

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Yes that pretty much sums it up well. Another point worth specifically mentioning is if you need to drive the car around for a while to boost its HP before tuning or before overhaul etc. Its covered under the question but just to be extact if order plays a role.

Still though, im not very hopefully they will be answered, and very suprised nobody knows the answer to these!!!

EDIT:Also a new one is why do some cars seem to get a boost in HP from driving them while others do not at all?

I tested out a couple things. First of all, engine maintenance becomes available somewhere between 140-190 miles driven. However, I have a car I got new that has just over 1,000 miles on it and it still has the original amount of HP with fresh oil. I did an engine maintenance on it anyway just to confirm. So point number 1 is that engine maintenance becomes available before you start to permanently loose HP. Secondly, I have cars bought new with under 60 miles that I have crashed a lot such as the Enzo (because it handles like a turd on wheels). It is eligible for chassis maintenance, but not engine maintenance (which again confirms point number 1). I also have some other cars with more mileage than the Enzo which are not eligible for chassis maintenance. So point number 2 is that chassis maintenance eligibility is tied to crash damage (and possibly mileage also past a certain point). I will still have to test out whether chassis maintenance has an impact on handling performance. I will test this tomorrow and report back.

Edit: I have finally gotten around to testing chassis maintenance after having my Bob drive my FGT for over 80,000 miles. I did an engine restoration to get my hp back and I then proceeded to drive it before and after chassis maintenance. I was not able to find any discernible differences in it's handling performance (test performed with a DFGT) and was able to set similar lap times before and after maintenance.

After more than a few hours of playing with my maximum horsepower rx-7, I tryed racing it at full speed again. (I Had been driving lazy since I was just golding various events). It would randomly catastrophically lose traction, whereas earlier I could react to the power-over drifting that might occur when I push too hard and maintain my line. Chassis maintenance fixed this. So, playing for less than a day in GT Life WILL cause a car to become extremely unreliable. I do not know if there is a significant change in lap time. I may test this soon after using the RX-7 nonstop for several hours, then comparing the best lap times of half-hour practice sessions before and after chassis maintenance.

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There is another way that will give you more results than a simple and EXPENSIVE (sometimes 500.000cr) Chassis maintenance, setup and tune your car properly. When you have oversteering problems expecially with highly tuned cars you can buy Fully Customisable LSD, Fully Customisable Suspension Kit (learning how to use it's crucial) and softer tires. Use hard tyres in front and soft to the rear to gain more grip when accellering out the chicanes.

Has anyone noticed that when you drive online, that the distance travelled is never added to your cars milage when you look at the info in the garage?

I thought that this was a bug the first time I saw it, but after reading that car maintainance may be scaled over distance, it may be deliberate. So a good question to ask would be:

"Is car maintainance definitely governed by distance driven?"

Or,

"Why is milage driven online, not recorded in game?"

xSNAKEx

very suprised nobody knows the answer to these!!

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The game came out worldwide less than a month ago, so it's understandable. I also suspect that since everyone using GTPlanet is already comfortable with playing Gran Turismo, none of us have consulted any of the strategy guides that are out there. There are also dozens of hours of easy no-brainer progresses through the game that eat up all our time that we could be using to tinker with the minutiae... Not to mention all the time we waste online. Also, the only cars where this is a major issue have inflated price tags since they're "priceless" cars. Most people tuning up mass produced road cars can ususally afford to do the chassis maintenance and engine rebuild whenever they want to.

HKS racer

There is another way that will give you more results than a simple and EXPENSIVE (sometimes 500.000cr) Chassis maintenance, setup and tune your car properly. When you have oversteering problems expecially with highly tuned cars you can buy Fully Customisable LSD, Fully Customisable Suspension Kit (learning how to use it's crucial) and softer tires. Use hard tyres in front and soft to the rear to gain more grip when accellering out the chicanes.

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I've spent countless days tweaking settings in the previous Gran Turismos... I'm just not ready to take up the habit yet again.

magburner

Has anyone noticed that when you drive online, that the distance travelled is never added to your cars milage when you look at the info in the garage?

I thought that this was a bug the first time I saw it, but after reading that car maintainance may be scaled over distance, it may be deliberate. So a good question to ask would be:

"Is car maintainance definitely governed by distance driven?"

Or,

"Why is milage driven online, not recorded in game?"

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You can use your cars online, and they are not affected in any way. No miles, wear, or tear.

minihulkster

I tested out a couple things. First of all, engine maintenance becomes available somewhere between 140-190 miles driven. However, I have a car I got new that has just over 1,000 miles on it and it still has the original amount of HP with fresh oil. I did an engine maintenance on it anyway just to confirm. So point number 1 is that engine maintenance becomes available before you start to permanently loose HP. Secondly, I have cars bought new with under 60 miles that I have crashed a lot such as the Enzo (because it handles like a turd on wheels). It is eligible for chassis maintenance, but not engine maintenance (which again confirms point number 1). I also have some other cars with more mileage than the Enzo which are not eligible for chassis maintenance. So point number 2 is that chassis maintenance eligibility is tied to crash damage (and possibly mileage also past a certain point). I will still have to test out whether chassis maintenance has an impact on handling performance. I will test this tomorrow and report back.

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I'm not convinced that cars from the used car lot have sustained the same sort of loss of rigidity they would when actually driven the same distance in GT Life. You did, however, confirm that you can do an engine rebuild and gain no power from it. Thanks!👍

so many questions left unanswered...

I was looking into answers myself when I saw this topic, I will contribute what my experience is:

1) Brought Formula Gran Turismo used, did oil change only. (unfortunately do not remember the HP just know it was under 935)

2) Did quite a few races in A and B-spec (more than 1000 miles) till it dropped to about 902 HP.

3) Performed engine maintenance, (and here is the muddy part) I believe it was after a few races that my HP went to 935 and not immediately after the maintenance (unfortunately I do not remember how much).

4) Did heavy endurance races and oil changing after each one.

5) Did engine maintenance, max HP was 932.

6) Continue to race and oil change after races, max HP still 932.

Conclusion: I think if your car is viable for engine maintenance and you run more than 500 miles on it you will lose permanent HP.

johnnyutah

I was looking into answers myself when I saw this topic, I will contribute what my experience is:

1) Brought Formula Gran Turismo used, did oil change only. (unfortunately do not remember the HP just know it was under 935)

2) Did quite a few races in A and B-spec (more than 1000 miles) till it dropped to about 902 HP.

3) Performed engine maintenance, (and here is the muddy part) I believe it was after a few races that my HP went to 935 and not immediately after the maintenance (unfortunately I do not remember how much).

4) Did heavy endurance races and oil changing after each one.

5) Did engine maintenance, max HP was 932.

6) Continue to race and oil change after races, max HP still 932.

Conclusion: I think if your car is viable for engine maintenance and you run more than 500 miles on it you will lose permanent HP.

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A car that starts with 935 horsepower, and can only get a "permanent" loss of 3 horsepower doesn't seem right to me. Maybe an engine might slightly vary randomly in (maximum potential) power every time it's rebuilt?

BradKinder

A car that starts with 935 horsepower, and can only get a "permanent" loss of 3 horsepower doesn't seem right to me. Maybe an engine might slightly vary randomly in (maximum potential) power every time it's rebuilt?

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From what I read on these forums, cars have a "break-in" mileage. For example if you buy a brand new car and do the oil change, go to "tuning" and check out the performance graph, your current HP should actually be slightly less than the maximum possible HP line. You would have to put some miles in the new engine before it can perform slightly better.

I think the engine maintenance might not restore the HP to the max but to the standard before the "break-in".

I will report back what my max HP will be after another engine maintenance when the HP drops significantly enough.

EDIT: Alright so I did approximately 1500 miles (3 indy endurances) with 2 oil changes. After the third race, the HP was down to 895.

1) I did an engine maintenance and the HP was restored to 930 HP.

2) I ran approximately 100 miles with oil changes between races.
(B-Spec Like the Wind daytona + dream car championship daytona [45 + 55])
[To test whether the engine could be broken-in again]

3) HP stayed at 930.

Conclusion: 1) On the formula gran turismo, the maximum horsepower does drop permanently.
2) The engine maintenance restores HP to the maximum horsepower potential and cannot be broken-in.

I will be racing with another car and avoid endurance races and see whether appropriate oil change / engine maintenance without putting a significant mileage on the car will prevent any permanent HP loss and report back here.

johnnyutah

I will be racing with another car and avoid endurance races and see whether appropriate oil change / engine maintenance without putting a significant mileage on the car will prevent any permanent HP loss and report back here.

Click to expand...

After 10,000 miles and a second engine re-build my FGTs BHP has dropped to 932 from 935 also.
EDIT: Before the 2nd re-build BHP had dropped to 886!
Bob is on the endruro's hopefully, breaking the engine in again. The description of the engine re-build says that the engine will be as good as new after the work. I would assume then that the cars original BHP maximum will always be achievable, no matter what!

How many miles have you run since your last new re-build?