What we know about chassis/engine maintenance

  • Thread starter BradKinder
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I noticed that when my hp starts to drop, a good old $250 oil change will restore the power. Has worked on every car I've tried it on.
 
Whoever wrote these is a Genius! I wondered why over the period of Drifting my S14 it went from very stable to sporadically regripping at the front end and sending me careening into a wall. I'm pretty faithful to my oil changes and engine overhauls tho.
 
"Q. What factors figure in to loss of chassis rigidity?"

its sad that this game has been out for a while and this is not answered.... I mean really why is it even in the game?!?! WHY??? just to screw with our heads? I wish someone from PD would throw us a frickin' bone..
 
whats a good interval to do this maitnence on the cars? several of mine are breaking deep into the triple digits mileagewise.. i was told somewhere around 3000-5000 miles was good for the work?
 
Another aspect I coincidentally found out with similar cars is that mileage done online (the racing distance, free practice doesn't add to the mileage) doesn't seem to be similar than the miles driven offline, by which I mean the online miles seem to be "shorter", takes more miles to break in a car online than offline.
For those interested, I've gone in some more detail in this thread I created a short while ago.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=172305
 
At risk of being slightly shot down for not having read every post in this thread, engine overhaul, along with restore rigidity and oil change are available a couple of races in , but it's only a few thousand miles (I forget exactly but 3-6 thousand) that the power starts to reduce, and I believe engine overhail restores this? But whether fully or not, I had assumed so (with oil change) but not sure. There is also a full thread on this somewhere.

However an easy way to test is sort your standards by their power and see where the cut off is.

Rigidity is vaguer, as there is no rigidity "rating", so personally i've opted to perform rigidity restoration at the same time as engine restoration. Expensive sometimes perhaps, but easy to monitor.
 
so if the car is supossed to lose only 10% of original HP. But my FGT went from 935hp to 764hp. This is a loss of 18.4% well over the 10% rule. is someting wrong here with the value of loss. ive also heard of an X2010 down to 1191hp, over 22% loss.
 
Hahaha... I was hoping this thread would be left to die.

Unless you're qualifying in an online free run, I guess you're stuck with chassis and engine wear now. Right?

I guess I'll go update my OP.
 
BradKinder
Unless you're qualifying in an online free run, I guess you're stuck with chassis and engine wear now. Right?

Interesting... was this a patched feature? I'm now thinking about the zero-mile zero-switch traders who will now spend sleepness nights obsessively worrying about the true virginity of their cars... Lolzzz
 
I don't know if this has been pointed out, but you can see chassis wear. I took a photo of my ZR-1 RM which had been driven into the ground (i.e. loads of grinding, no engine or chassis refreshing) and never tuned so the suspension settings were default, then took a photo of my Z06 RM in the same situation and you can see a difference in the front camber angle. I'll upload photos when I can. I wonder if it's possible to re-tune a worn out car to perform the same as one with a fresh chassis?
 
The only way to drive one of your own cars without wear and tear is in an online lobby in free run. Otherwise, everything wears out. Even the chassis.

GT5 is hard and unfair... Just get used to it. Or don't. Or whatever. Buy a cockpit, you'll have more fun.
 
Very interesting thread. I like how technical and in depth it actually gets. This has certainly answered a lot of my engine questions.
 
What factors do figure in to loss of chassis rigidity?

Pretty much everything you do with your car. The chassis of the car has to cope with a lot of stresses due to the vehicles movement. Steering for example causes the chassis to twist (around the longitudinal axis) which results in local stresses in the chassis. In long term, this might causes fatique cracks in the vehicles chassis if it is not properly designed (and probably if the car is mis-used too, like using it for racing around tracks :D). Check this link for example: http://www.vrperformance.com/mt/2008/11/cracking_up_e46_subframe_issue.html

A worn out chassis will be more flexible which results in a larger weight transfer. A larger weight transfer between the wheels will decrease the vehicles performance at cornering, braking and accelerating (pretty much everthing). I have no clue how PD has implemented this in the game and so far i can't feel any difference with a fresh or worn out chassis. I'm not even sure if i have (or had) a car that has a worn out chassis. Maybe its worth a shot to buy a car from the UCD with a lot of mileage on it, and put that one to the test.
 
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