best car for professional ff

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i have competed most of the game w/ all gold but i am having problems w/ the professional ff race....what car do you reccomend & if i have to win it ...what race can i do it in?
 
What on Earth makes you say that?

What have you been trying this in? Believe me, numerous people will back me up on this, its possible to win Pro-league FF in a Mini Cooper.

Maybe its not the car that sucks.....
 
And I will certainly back this up, having done it.

The Mini Cooper comes with a whole 63hp out of the box, going up to 178hp when fully fondled. I lapped the competition at Deep Forest...
 
Famine
And I will certainly back this up, having done it.

The Mini Cooper comes with a whole 63hp out of the box, going up to 178hp when fully fondled. I lapped the competition at Deep Forest...

:cheers: Famine! Figured you'd be out there to back this up!

If you're really looking for a very easy ride in this championship, use the Citroen Xsara Rally Car, Beetle or Lup Cup cars or Honda Integra Type-R. The TRD Celica should wipe the floor with everything... You'll win a Spoon Civic Type-R which is pretty cool, sounds like an F1 and revs to 15,000rpm!
 
Famine's being saying that the mini can win this for ages so, a few weeks ago, I tried it out and it was great!! 👍
 
Try:

Springs: 8.5/11.0
Ride Height: 69/69
Dampers: All 6s
Camber: 2.8/2.0
Toe: -0.5/-2.0
Stabilisers: 4/4 (go for 3/4 if you want some ass-out action)
Brakes: 22/19
LSD: All 5/0
ASM: off
TCS: 1 (for a nice start...)

Gears to your taste.
 
They're all variations on a theme.

With understeery FF cars generally you want sod all LSD settings, stiffer rear springs than back, lots of negative toe at the rear and a little TCS to help off the line.

Give a man some settings and he can use one car on one track. Teach him how to use settings and he'll enjoy GT3 forever.
 
My Mini settings are a little different, each to his own & all that good stuff....
This is what I use for my Mini that wins the Rome Enduro.... just adjust the gears for the different circuits you're racing on.... put all the mods you can on, until you get 178HP, 640Kg and PWR of 3.5xx

Springs 15.7 Front 15.4 Rear
Ride Height 71 Front & Rear
Dampers all 8
Camber 2 Front 1 Rear
Toe -1 Front 1 Rear
Stabilisers 6 Front & Rear

Brake balance 17 Front 19 Rear (Rear bias helps to avoid wearing down the front tyres too quickly)

LS Initial 30 Front
LS Acc 30 Front
LS Dec 50 Front (helps to slow car with engine braking, but increases understeer)

Gears autoset somewhere between 21 and 27 depending on track.

Use Slicks all round for a 10 lapper and you shouldn't need to pit. If you find front tyres are going out too quickly use Slicks at the back and Super-Slicks at the front.
Have fun and hopefully you'll revise that "Mini sucks" comment soon!!! :)
 
I managed to get rid of the understeer and I used the hardest compound tyres. The beetle cup car never pits and is always like 10 seconds ahead of me at the end of the race.
 
Smallhorses
What on Earth makes you say that?

What have you been trying this in? Believe me, numerous people will back me up on this, its possible to win Pro-league FF in a Mini Cooper.

Maybe its not the car that sucks.....

You must be fast then. :)
 
You realize, eberk, that you can get a "free" Xsara by winning the the SSR5 Wet Rally?

That being said, the Mini is loads of fun once one realizes it is a "momentum" racer...use as little "braking" as possible and one should torch the AI, including the dreaded Beetle ;)
 
Famine
They're all variations on a theme.

With understeery FF cars generally you want sod all LSD settings, stiffer rear springs than back, lots of negative toe at the rear and a little TCS to help off the line.

Give a man some settings and he can use one car on one track. Teach him how to use settings and he'll enjoy GT3 forever.

Famine, I always thought that the rear springs are in the back. 👍
Did you mean to type "stiffer rear springs than front." 👍

It is interesting to see two completely different suspension settings philosophies. Famines settings are closer to my thinking and driving style rather than Smallhorses are.
For my style Smallhorses looks generally too hard and the front springs look way to hard. I feel he is using a bad brake set up to try to cure understeer because of too hard a spring setting at the front. (my opinion, not saying Smallhorse wrong)

The mini is a car I have not driven a lot. I will make a note of each persons settings and give both a go.
 
I did it with a Mitsubishi FTO fully tuned, max power and T2 tires. At DeepForest2, all the oponents pitted for a tire change but my FTO didn't have to. I won by a 20 seconds margin.
Maybe I had it easy because the Beetle was not racing. If I enter with the TRD Celica, the Beetle is always on the starting grid too.
So the Mitsu FTO is a good reliable candidate to win that serie.
 
Uncle Harry
Famine, I always thought that the rear springs are in the back. 👍
Did you mean to type "stiffer rear springs than front." 👍

Indeed... Glad someone's paying attention... :D

*innocent whistle*
 
I too agree with SmallHorses "tuning phylosophy" :) the front of a FF car being havier than the back and all the power being transmitted to the front axle should have a stiffer suspension, specially during braking when all the inertia force is displaced toward the front.
 
You want the weight to stay at the front as long as possible so the front wheels have more traction. So softer at front and harder at rear.
I prefer Famines settings.
 
I used the Honda Integra Type R.

Spring Rate: 9.0F/13.5R
Ride Height: 89F/94R
Shock Bound: 10F&R
Shock Rebound: 10F&R
Camber Angle: 2.5F/2.2R
Toe Angle: -.5F/-1.5R
Stabilizers: 4F&R
Brake Balance: 12F/18R
ACS: 0
TCS: 2

I'm not sure if I messed with the gearing, but I think you should do alright. Check with other settings if needed. Also note that these settings were used with a Driving Force Pro, so it may be a little wierd if used with a Dual Shock 2. Good luck and don't give up. It's a hard race, but nothing impossible.
 
Uncle Harry
You want the weight to stay at the front as long as possible so the front wheels have more traction. So softer at front and harder at rear.
I prefer Famines settings.
The front suspension should be stiffer than the rear suspension.
Let's take a real, unbiased example from GT2 ( because GT2 give you the suspension spring rate value even if they are unajustable:

Mitsubishi FTO GPX

Suspension kit: Normal
front: 2.6 lb/in
rear 1.6 lb/in

Suspension kit: Sport
front: 3.9lb/in
rear 2.4 lb/in

So obviously, in all these cases the front suspension is stiffer than the rear.
What's good for Kazunori Yamauchi is good enough for me
Maybe Famine and you should take a tuning course at the Skip Barber's school ;)
 
Beetle of doom...

I used the Acura Integra Type R (Why Acura, cause I had it for the American make races) and it cleaned up... not even fully tuned. I'm gonna try it with a Vitz here in the future, mostly cause thats about all I have for the game right now, that and the TRD Celica, but well, the Vitz is awesome. 8.2% done and I'm gonna go do the Pro Vitz soon as well.


This Mini racing intrigues me, I'll shall try it once I get my game going again.
 
Biased turkey
Maybe Famine and you should take a tuning course at the Skip Barber's school ;)

Maybe Skip Barber should try to set the world record for the Yaris/SSR11 race.

GT3 = computer game.
Skip Barber = Real life driver.

The one need not bear relation to the other.
 
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