Need Help Getting Better

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lynk26
hey, im fairly new to these forums and GT3 (been playing since about July/August), and im stuck. i feel i aint getting any better at the game. heres some of my best laps in various courses:

Midfield Raceway - 1'10.655
Trial Mountain - 1'22.187
Tokyo R246 - 1'36.748
Grand Valley - 1'51.335
Laguna Seca - 1'18.908
Rome - 1'21.899
Deep Forest - 1'11.623
SSR5 - 1'19.428
Seattle - 1'30.207
Apricot Hill - 1'17.824

no matter how hard i try, i cant beat those times. maybe im trying too hard? i use a racing style mix between drift and grip. i found that in some corners i could take it faster if i drifted than gripped, and vice versa. if you guys dont mind, would you guys maybe post up some of your best times to see where i stand at skill-wise? maybe that'll give me some more motivation to do better. thanks!
 
Practice. Practice. Practice. Practice.. Then Practice some more... Then a little more Practice.. It's the only way...

Or maybe you just lack skill ;)
 
:lol: well, im doin the best that i can. my SS just wont go any faster... i guess i'll probably have to keep on messing around with the settings or maybe the gear ratio again....
 
You could work on your licence tests until you can get gold on all of them. Each one teaches basic driving techniques that when combined really help your driving skills as a whole. Some of them may seem impossible to gold but if you stick with it you will get them all eventually.:)
 
Get GT4 Prologue. It helped my driving no end. And my confidence.

Before I used to go into a license thinking "right, now let's just get this over with". Now I'm seriously considering going back to do the license tests again in GT1, GT2 and GT3.
 
It also depends on what car you are using for those times. In a stock Vitz you have nothing to worry about. If you used the 094/s, there is a problem. And practice like Flerbizky said.
 
Well, hello, lynk26, and welcome to GTPlanet!

By "SS" I assume you mean "Trueno SS Shigano Version", ie the Intial D Special. If so, you can check out the times at www.gt3times.com for that car and track combination. Assume the cars are full-build for the very low times.

Have a read through the Online Racing School, which is a highly underutilized board here. Also, we could use some more info on where you think your weak points are.

I know that the main thing that lowered my lap times was learning to brake earlier - in some cases much earlier - and going through the turns under control and on the power. I'm not the fastest by any means, but that really helped me.
 
neon_duke
I know that the main thing that lowered my lap times was learning to brake earlier - in some cases much earlier - and going through the turns under control and on the power. I'm not the fastest by any means, but that really helped me.
Click to expand...

Haha, I'm so guilty of this.

With me the theory was if I braked later I could carry more speed before I had to brake, then get down to the appropriate speed for the corner. Never worked, never will. I'm still a ltae braker, I've just learnt to control it. And it's all thanks to GT4 Prologue!

And GTConcept. :D

lynk26: I expect you'll get tired of hearing this, but practice is a HUGE confidence builder. Practise over and over, playing with different lines, different braking points, etc, etc. Smoothness and speed is the key - put those together and you'll be the next Hugo Boss (really successful online racer). :D

I stand by what I say - go and buy GT4 Prologue, and do it now. The license tests are pretty challenging, some of them, and they're amazing fun. You can practise the same line over and over as well, until you nail it, just like I nailed the Spoon Civic in the New York overtaking test, previous best was a 5.47 for bronze, and I successfully lowered that to a 2.07! :sly:
 
Lots and lots of practice, as has been mentioned here already. I think the license tests do help alot also, but like was mentioned with the braking, it may feel while your driving around the course that the way you are doing it is the fastest, but it may not be, try some different lines and earlier or later braking points and see what that does. :)
 
well, i could put up a replay of one of my laps so you guys could maybe see where my weak points are at, cuz i dont know enough to do that kinda stuff yet. i'll take a look at that online racing school thing too. heres my current settings for it:

Spring Rate: 8.5 F; 7.0 R
Ride Height: 86 mm F & R
Shock Bound: 1 F; 2 R
Shock Rebound: 3 F; 4 R
Camber Angle: 3.5 F; 2.6 R
Toe Angle: 2.0 F; -2.0 R
Stabilizers: 1 F & R

Brake Balance: 14 F; 18 R

LSIT: 5 R
LSA: 32 R
LSD: 5 R

Downforce: .24 F; 0.26 R
ASM: 0
TCS: 2

any ideas on making these settings better would be appreciated.

oh btw, that gt3times.com site isnt working for me...
 
make the stabalizers stiffer, make them both 7.

remember, when your setting up a car make HUGE changes, and ONLY 1! (if you make several, you will never know which helped and which didnt)
make your suspension harder too, but run it with tire wair, and keep an eye on which tires wear the quickest, if rear is wearing faster, make the front stiffer, or rear softer, and vice versa if front wearing quickest.

toe! holy cow! 2!!!
if anything you want front to be negative, it helps turning into turns, and i suggest you make it -0.5 at that, 2 is ... slowing you down, and wearing your tires down like mad in races

not sure if thats as low as car, but with those rebounds and bounds, it should be a bit mushy is it not?

also.. tires, depending on if there is tire wear on a race, the more expensive the tire.. the more it grips ;) BUT.. the quicker it will wear down, in races i often stick with the medium slicks for grip and length

and camber seems a bit much..might not be though

overall.. looks like your car is almost a stock car lol looks like it rides smooth, but would be absolutely awful in an autocross! stiffen it all up ;)
 
Hello everybody. I am new to the GTP community.

I mainly registered to keep up to date with GT4, but since it looks like it will not be out until the Apocalypse Day (or close to it anyway...) I decided to pick up my good ol' trusty GT3 for the time being.

This is my first post and I did a lot of reading before I finally decided to post something, namely because I do not want to look like the classic newbie who asks the same question that has already been asked one billion time and then more. As lynk26, who started this post, I need some advices on getting better. I tried turning ASM and TCS off to have a better feel for how the car "REALLY" behaves (instead of having the simulator basically driving it for me) and I switched to manual transmission. I did all that at the same time, so it was quite hard to control the car at first, because now I had to deal with the car being harder to keep in the optimal lines (due to the driving aids being switched off) and at the same time I had to pay attention to the RPM values. Eventually though, I got the handle of it and I managed to "feel" the right moment for shifting (listening to the engine) rather than looking at the revolutions per minute (while I should have been looking at the road...).

All this to say that switching off the driving aids and switching to manual transmission improved my times quite a bit, but I am still not happy with my results. Reading these boards, I discovered the website that keep an archive of all the best times for a given car at a given track (http://gt3.gttimes.com/). So, after keying in my favorite car (Toyota Supra Denso Sard JGTC '00), I noticed that some of the ones that I thought were my best lap times and took me quite a good effort to achieve (of course according to the rules - two tires on the track at any given time and no wall riding) were withing 10 seconds, AT BEST, of the best lap time. Now, I don't expect to compete for the podium at gt3times, but I would like to manage to be within 2 or 3 seconds of it (closer than 10 seconds, that's for sure).

I would like to hear some of your opinions in regard to this subject, focusing expecially on the following:

- Techniques for improving one's lap times (such as, for a given track, mastering the car with automatic transmission and default settings first, then trying to squeeze the best possible time with a manual transmission, and then gradually changing the settings (one at a time, as suggested in many threads) to achieve one's best setup, according to one's driving style/skills; or other combinations or ways to achieve one's "perfection" that you all think might work better)
- A good track for this type of exercise, a track that, if mastered, will probably improve one's driving skills to a good point, such that one would be able to drive pretty much on any other track and get good times there too, with minor setup adjustments
- How to figure out a good way to downshift... Upshifting is easy, as you shift anytime the needle hits the redline, but downshifting is still a bit of a problem (either I downshift too early during the breaking process and the RPM's are too high, thus making the tires spin, or too late during the braking process, where the RPM's drop so low that I almost need to downshift one more gear, as the car bogs down)

Anyway, I hope I didn't bore you all too much - sorry for the lenght of my post.
While I wait for a reply, off I go for "Practice. Practice. Practice. Practice... Then Practice some more... Then a little more Practice..." - it's not like I have anything better to do from now up to the Apocalypse Day when GT4 will be released...

The Wizard.
 
Towards Lynk.... what car are you using, cause that Apricot Hill is better than my best, but I was running a fully tuned Opel Speedster...

Towards Wizard. Excellent first post. Proper grammer, intelligent, and contributes. Nice work 👍

In regard to your questions...

For driving techniques. I have never used the automatic, ever. I find it does not shift when I would like it to, and will not stay at the peak power of an engine at times. Typically, I will run a car stock a few times, and see how it feels. From there, I will adjust to make it feel more how I want it to handle, and then I start increasing the road holding.

My major practice course is Apricot Hill. The combonation of up and down hill, with sweepers, a hairpin, a large 180, a chicane, and turns on hills makes for excellent practice.

As for downshifting... you get into a rhythm for it. Just go to the test course, and practice downshifting under full braking, till standstill. You will eventually find a timing for it.
 
If you can drive a car without any driving aid then you're a pretty good driver, Wiz. I think (but don't quote me on this) that the times at GT3 Times are set with at least the TCS set to 1. Though I've never set a time worthy of GT3 Times (apart from my 0'50.0 in the F1 at Deep Forest a couple of years ago, and even that was only worth 17th... but I digress...).

The downshifting bit is easy enough. Usually I find that with any car, downshifting at between 4 and 5,000 RPM works quite well. Do endless laps of Grand Valley or Laguna Seca, or even Tokyo R246 - just a track with quite a few sharp braking points - and practise your braking, over and over, until you hit your desired point.

(That's probably why I'm such an average driver... bad braking... :ouch: )

Also, here's a tip: Left-foot brake on some corners. Or in layman's terms, hit the brake with the accelerator still nailed to the floor. Don't do this on all the corners as it only advantages you in some corners. Left-foot braking is a lot better than either letting off the gas or properly hitting the brake, because when you pinch the brake you lose quite a bit of speed, and left foot braking keeps the speed and revs high.

It's also quite useful if you left-foot brake, then downshift to one gear less than required for the corner, then floor the throttle. Okay, this may not really be useful for improving times but high revs = big-arse slides = fun! :dopey:

Hope I helped... good luck.
 
@TheWizard: Welcome to the GT(P) community :)

Turning off the driving aids is a good way to learn to drive better. You'll get punished for driving incorrect lines and abusing the brakes and the throttle when you have got them on. Without driving aids you are forced to find the correct line if you want to go faster. It may take some time, but if you keep on trying, you'll find the right line eventually.
Another option to learn to drive fast is to look at replays from other (fast) drivers. You can look at vid's, or you can buy a MaxDrive so you can copy other driver's replays on your memory card so you can use them as a ghost.

You say you like the Denso Sard Supra, but fully modified it's not the best car to begin with. Especially driving it without aids. Only the best drivers are given to drive those cars fast without using aids. You do need a good setup then as well.
I would suggest you start with using slower cars, or a standard Denso and fit it with Super Soft tyres. You can also start with arcade cars. It's easy to compare your times with others, as you cannot change the settings. For a database, look at http://db.granturismo.de/gt3_arcade_cars.php
When you got a good pace in the slower cars, you can slowly work your way up to the faster cars.

There's not a track that makes you able to drive all tracks well when you've mastered it. I think it's better to pick a car you like driving and take it to different tracks. When you drive a car that you experienced to handle nice, it's much easier to learn different tracks and master all sort of corners.

About the downshifting, make sure you set your first 2 gears long and let all other gears follow close to each othter. This way it's easy to shift down, as you need to shift really fast to get engine into the limiter and your car will accelerate fast out of almost any corner.

Typed enough now, I hope it helps you 💡
 
Hugo Boss
About the downshifting, make sure you set your first 2 gears long and let all other gears follow close to each othter. This way it's easy to shift down, as you need to shift really fast to get engine into the limiter and your car will accelerate fast out of almost any corner.
Click to expand...

Okay, I'm not such a setup dunce that I don't understand this, but could you give it an explanation? Maybe where to set the gears to, what's best for each car, etc... just a quick summary.

I'm pretty setup duncey myself. :ouch:

:cheers:
 
When you've set your first 2 gears as wide as possible (don't forget to use the 'tranny trick'), you can set your last 4 short. Your car has a max possible speed on each track (because the power of the engine isn't stronger anymore than the total friction), so if you adjust your 6th and final gear to that max speed, you've got 3 more gears that can be set close to each other. The advantage of that is that you drop less in revs when you shift up to an higher gear, meaning you've got more power available. This will result in better acceleration on higher speeds, exactly what you're looking for on a circuit.

This counts for most cars, but for cars with a lot of torque (Viper) or cars that lose power in higher revs (C-West Silvia, JGTC Skyline) you can set your gears wider (1st and 2nd gear shorter then), so you make better use of the power delivery of the engine.
 
Well, thank you all for the replies and the welcomes. I found the advices quite useful and I will try to implement them in my game as soon as possible... As weird as that may sound, school needs to take priority over gaming, sometimes... lol.

@ intelectualism: early braking is a good idea, as I used to break WAY too late, when I first started playing the game. Unfortunately, now I think I have the opposite problem: I break TOO soon, and therefore lose in top speed before a corner, and precious lap time. I really need to figure out the proper spot in which to brake for a given corner.

@ Azuremen: thank you for the compliments and the awesome welcome. Also I appreciate the tip on downshifting... I think I will give it a try for sure. It makes perfect sense, I will be braking on a straight line and so nothing else will affect the traction and the RPM of the engine, other than braking and shifting... so it nails it straight to the point (since that is what I want to learn to do).

@ Stinky Chicken: Unfortunately, I don't own a wheel + pedals combination, so I don't think I will be able to perform the "left foot braking trick"... unless pressing the braking button and the accelerator on my controller can do the equivalent... I think it would work, but it would probably be harder, since I would have to control the pressure (and therefore the amount of braking and throttle) on two buttons with one finger - I use X for throttle and D (sorry, closest key I could find in my keyboard that resembles a square... lol) for braking... and that's the combination that work best for me.

@ Hugo Boss: I don't understand one part of your post. That is, you said to begin with lower powered cars. Begin as "begin mastering and getting the best times possible with lower powered cars and then, once I got good enough with them, work my way up?" or begin as "begin playing the game with lower powered cars, and then work my way up?". If it is the latter, then there has been a misunderstandment between us, as I have played GT3 for quite a long time. If it is the former, then I agree with you, it's a good idea and it makes pretty good sense: in fact, a lower powered car, moving slower, gives you more time to think and to see what the perfect line would be. Once you learnt the line and how to take the car to its limits (if you pass the limits, the car would move away from the best line), then use a mid powered car and do the same thing, until, eventually, you will be able to drive the 1000+ hp monsters... lol. (note that, for personal preference, I will leave out of my "High hp monsters - to drive list" the Suzuki Escudo... I'd never been able to handle it... lol). I'll also try to do what you suggested about "maximizing" the gear ratios for the particular power band of a given car. It sounds like the obvious thing to do, as it would keep the engine running at its best/highest (or close to it, anyway) torque and power.

Any other tips are welcome.
Thank you all again.

The Wizard.
 
One definite way to get faster is to join the WRS. Once I joined that my driving style completley changed and I became overall a better driver. Try driving a car in arcade mode stock form and see you limit with it. Thenbuy everything but power mods and see if you've improved after all thats done you can finally start adding all the power you need. A good practice course is Laguna Seca because the line is hard to find for most corners.
 
I did some research on these boards and I came across this:

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39439&page=1&pp=20

WRS stands for "Weekly Race Series" and it's an online racing event.
Read through that post, and it will give you more information. I might join, if I think hard enough about doing it... but I think for the time being I will just stick with solo racing, trying to improve my times and my driving style. This is my main goal for now, to prepare myself for the best simulator ever to be known to mankind: GT4 (until GT5 comes out, that is!).

Cheers,
The Wizard.
 
let me try to chip in something. The most can be achieved by practise a lot. The other thing I find very usefulll is to use slower car at first, just to learn the line and corners.

Trailbraking is an option that can be used, but it's only for the advanced drivers. Before that you should rather try to enter corners slow and accelerate out faster.

Try the S licenses and watch the replay of them. There are few tips. And then yust try to drive like that. Also, there are arcade time trials, where you learn not to go off track :).

The main thing is to be smooth and fast. Before every longer straight, enter slowly into the corner and accelerate as soon as possible. I think, that you can loose more time on the accelerating parts as on heh braking parts, because braking covers aproximately 10% of race course. If your braking is'nt perfect you won't loose that much, as if your accelerating is bad. As you enter slow into a corner you can turn harder and point the car out into the straight faster and push accelerator faster. Taking very wide corners will loose you time. Hope this helps.
 
The best advice I can give to the Wizard, is to register for the WRS, and when a week comes along that sounds fun, just jump in and start racing. Competing against others is always a great motivator. You seem like a cool guy and would fit right in, everyone is really friendly.

If you have some spare cash, pick up a Max Drive device so you can view replays of others, and save you own runs onto your PC for storage. Chasing someone's ghost is the fastest way to pick up good driving habits. An added bonus is that you get to see some AMAZING driving from the best drivers around.👍
 
@ vipersan: could you explain me what trailbraking is? Or point me to somewhere in which it is explained? I really do not understand what it means/how it is performed.

@ CFM: if you all insist so much, I might seriously consider joining the WRS... lol! Only problems with that is the fact that the semester just started and I am taking 21 hours worth of hardcore engineering courses, so I don't really want to add something else that I have to take responsibility for... You know what I mean? If it is just playing by myself then I can make time for it whenever I want to/if I want to. If it is joining online races, that would actually "require" me to do it and "require" me to make time for it (I know that you don't HAVE to partecipate every week, but then if I join and I only partecipate once a month, then there is really no point, you see?).
About the idea of getting somebody else's replays and use the ghosts as a guideline, now that's a good idea and something that I would see happening.
Another thing that I don't like/bothers me is that the WRS does not require you to submit a replay of your race... now, how do we know/make sure that people just do not cheat and say, "yeah, my time is this, and it's better than yours" while possibly, in reality, it could have been WAY slower. If I decided to join, I would REQUIRE myself to submit a replay of my times, because I want to give a proof of what I am saying (I know it might sound silly, but trust me, we engineers/mathematicians need proofs for EVERYTHING... lol!).
Which leads me to the next consideration.

@ everybody:

I have been looking into getting a Sharkport/Max Drive/[insert name of random device here] to do a few things, but I don't want to buy one of each to do different things, so if you all can suggest me which one to get that performs ALL of the following, I would gladly appreciate it:

1) Makes a backup of your memory card so that you can save it/modify it on your PC with dedicated software (found/downloaded on the internet, possibly free)

2) Allows you to import a different save game to your PS2

3) Allows you to make hybrids in GT3 (and possibly in GT4, if such feature is supported by the game)

4) Allows you to save the pictures you take in "Photomode", so you can use them as wallpapers for your PC (possibly high quality ones, and not compressed/artifacted)

5) Works on an original/unmodded PS2, particularly on an old one (mine is version: SCPH-30001)

6) Is still in producton/can still be bought (don't mind if it is either new or used) without TOO much hunting for it on the Internet or a local store.

So, is there a device (does it even exist? lol!) that does all that?

The Wizard.
 
sure!

trailbraking is braking very late into the corner. Normally tha procedure of cornering consists of: driving towards corner, braking, let go of brake, steer in, in the middle of corner apply full throttle, steer out and accelerate out of corner. When trailbraking is used the procedure is a bit changed: driving towards corner, braking a bit later than normally, still braking while starting to steer in, in the middle of the corner at full lock let go of the brake and hit full throttle, steer out and accelerate. So trailbraking is braking while you're steering. That is general rule for a ordinary corner. But because there are several kind of corners on a track, the procedure must be corrected for every corner accordingly. Some corners just don't allow you trailbraking.

The upside of that procedure is that you save some time, because you brake later, the downside is that since the speed is bigger and you brake as you turn the car shifts weight and becomes unstable. The rear of the car can come out (the car can start to oversteer). There is also a problem of too much brake pressure and wheels can lock up while steering, which will result in hitting the wall.

Hope it's understandible. Good luck!
 
TheWizard
@ CFM: if you all insist so much, I might seriously consider joining the WRS... lol! Only problems with that is the fact that the semester just started and I am taking 21 hours worth of hardcore engineering courses, so I don't really want to add something else that I have to take responsibility for... You know what I mean? If it is just playing by myself then I can make time for it whenever I want to/if I want to. If it is joining online races, that would actually "require" me to do it and "require" me to make time for it (I know that you don't HAVE to partecipate every week, but then if I join and I only partecipate once a month, then there is really no point, you see?).
About the idea of getting somebody else's replays and use the ghosts as a guideline, now that's a good idea and something that I would see happening.
Another thing that I don't like/bothers me is that the WRS does not require you to submit a replay of your race... now, how do we know/make sure that people just do not cheat and say, "yeah, my time is this, and it's better than yours" while possibly, in reality, it could have been WAY slower. If I decided to join, I would REQUIRE myself to submit a replay of my times, because I want to give a proof of what I am saying (I know it might sound silly, but trust me, we engineers/mathematicians need proofs for EVERYTHING... lol!). Which leads me to the next consideration. I have been looking into getting a Sharkport/Max Drive/[insert name of random device here] to do a few things, but I don't want to buy one of each to do different things, so if you all can suggest me which one to get that performs ALL of the following, I would gladly appreciate it:

1) Makes a backup of your memory card so that you can save it/modify it on your PC with dedicated software (found/downloaded on the internet, possibly free)

2) Allows you to import a different save game to your PS2

3) Allows you to make hybrids in GT3 (and possibly in GT4, if such feature is supported by the game)

4) Allows you to save the pictures you take in "Photomode", so you can use them as wallpapers for your PC (possibly high quality ones, and not compressed/artifacted)

5) Works on an original/unmodded PS2, particularly on an old one (mine is version: SCPH-30001)

6) Is still in producton/can still be bought (don't mind if it is either new or used) without TOO much hunting for it on the Internet or a local store.

So, is there a device (does it even exist? lol!) that does all that?

The Wizard.
Click to expand...

The Max Drive is what you need. It costs $30 at Best Buy or a store like that. It's like a little key fob USB flash drive that plugs into the front of your PS2 and PC. The Sharkport / Xport device has been discontinued, and it's what I used to have, but my old PS2 stopped reading the blue backed discs. It's a cable based link from PC to PS2 and was a pain because you had to have the two in the same room to transfer files.

The max drive can do everything you asked about except for photo mode. No device can do all of what you asked about and do photo mode saves. Any plain USB jump drive for your PC should do it, the reason the Max Drive won't is because it saves files with some sort of compression / encryption.

As far as the WRS, if your too busy, nobody's going to force you to join at gunpoint.:) Don't sacrifice your studies on our account. I've been submitting times into the http://db.granturismo.de/ arcade car database, because I can just do whatever I want, however I want, as long as I want in my free time. That might be fun for you.

If you get a Max Drive, you'll need some software to do all the stuff you asked about. Look for Arwin's Replay Manager, MKS garage Editor, and the .xps to .max converter. They are all posted here some where. If you need help with any of them , just give me a PM. See you on the track:tup:
 
CFM
As far as the WRS, if your too busy, nobody's going to force you to join at gunpoint.:)
Click to expand...

:D I know nobody is pointing a gun at me and telling me that I absolutely HAVE to join the community or I'll be shot... I didn't imply in my post that anybody was forcing me and I was only just kidding around (by the way, I know you were too ^... but it was still funny). As far as the Action Replay Max Drive, I figured that was the choice to make, but I read on the GT4 forum that the Max Drive doesn't support exporting picture taken in "Photomode", just like you said. So I was hoping that there was another device that maybe could do it ALL, but I guess that was asking a little bit TOO much :D

By the way, I edited my post (the one you just quoted) because the latter part was really for everybody to read, and I thought people would just skip it, thinking it was only directed to you. Thank you for answering, though, as your answer is completely satisfactory.

Before you posted here (a couple of hours ago) I posted the same set of questions in a GT4 thread that I created just for that purpose, as I figured some more people would see it (here it is buried in a thread that asks for advices in driving better, so I figure my questions about the devices do not really fit here). I read some more people adivices on the matter and they all pretty much suggested the Max Drive. maskrider also said that it does not support "Photomode" with the flash drive it comes with in the package, but still does all the other actions that I required for "my perfect device" to do. maskrider also added that it is though compatible with other types of flash drives. I just thought I would share this information here, as somebody might be interested.

By the way, here is a link to the whole thread:

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=53694

Hope this helps somebody else as much as it has helped me.

Thank you all.
The Wizard.
 
vipersan
trailbraking is braking very late into the corner. ... When trailbraking is used the procedure is a bit changed: driving towards corner, braking a bit later than normally, still braking while starting to steer in, in the middle of the corner at full lock let go of the brake and hit full throttle, steer out and accelerate. So trailbraking is braking while you're steering.
Click to expand...

Understood! Thank you for the clarification, it makes perfect sense. And also, I just discovered, after reading your explanation, that I pretty much ALWAYS trailbrake :D Even if I don't do it completely right... It just happens that I am a LATE breaker, but I am not just that good yet to drive the car to its limits throughout the whole corner... Ideally, one should hear the tires squealing, while they try to take the car around the corner... as in that scenario, you would be at the limits of your car's traction... therefore taking the turn at the highest speed possible (the limits where static friction is just one infinitesimal step from becoming kinetic friction). Kinetic friction is lower than static friction, therefore, as soon as your normal acceleration (the acceleration pointing toward the instantaneous center of the curve to which the car is tangent to at that particular instant) gets high enough for your tires to overcome their static friction, that's when your car starts skidding and getting out of control... this happens because the kinetic coefficient of friction is lower than the static one... think about this, as an example: it takes more force to get something sliding on a surface than it takes for it to KEEP sliding on that same surface... So, ideally you would want your acceleration to be high enough such that you are an infinitesimal away from the point in which you don't have static friction anymore... And that's what I need to work on... take the car to the limits, without going past them... or else, in the best of the hypoteses, you would have to release the throttle/brake/do both to keep the car on track; in the worst of the hypoteses, your car will go for a spin/hit a wall/go out of the track... all of which will make you lose precious time.

If the tracks were completely flat, and I knew the radius of each corner, and I knew the coefficient of friction between the tires and the asphalt, I could easily figure out the maximum acceleration for a given car at a given corner... and, having that data, it would be a breeze to figure out the optimal enter and exit velocity for each turn, using some "simple" maximization calculus...

Oh well, looks like I am digressing too much... Enough with my physics/dynamics lecture, I am sure nobody cares and everybody will think I am a geek after reading this, but hey, somebody can love the GT series, math, and physics all at the same time... I am the living proof! :D

The Wizard.
 

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