Effects of Mileage?

I

[IKickPigeons]

42
So i recently got the 4 black beauties and im wondering what the effects of high mileage are in the game. The reason being is that the black r92cp seems slower and much more sluggish than the new one in the IA-16 license test. I did however put in stiffness and chasis refreser right when i bought all four. Is it just my mind playing tricks or are the black cars considerably slower than their new counterparts?

I know that with high mileage hp lowers along with chasis rigidity but is it enough to change the cars performance drastically? In other words, is it worth winning a new r92cp or buying a new car and selling the other one with thousands of miles on it?

Also, how many miles before a car's mileage catches up and starts slowing performance? And out of curiosity, how many miles do you have on your best/favorite cars. Currently i have over 1,200 on my Audi Abt TT Touring car. But my '04 pesky is getting up there.
 
I hope you did the chassis refresh first before the rigidity.
It has been reported that if the rigidity is done first then the car is locked in to the worn settings and a refresh will have no effect.........

Have you done the oil change?

Have a look at Famines 24 hour enduro write ups in the race report section toget an idea of the effects of milage on car performance and handling.

Edit : if you have enough cash you can buy them from your memory card (trade) and they will be as bought condition.
 
Yeah the mileage does have effects on the car...its recommended that you refresh the chassis around every 500kms or after an endurance race or two. I always refresh it when the tick comes off the chassis refresher; so I visit the tuning shop quite often. My highest mileage car (actually driven by me) is probably the 350Z LM Race Car with around 1550km on it or around 1000miles.

Don't sell your R92CP!! That's one of a kind! Use it for now, and then if you really don't like it then sell it, but I'd say try it out first. I worked my butt off to get just thet R92CP, and I love it...

Uncle Harry: Is that true that I have to do the chassis refresher first? When I bought my black R92CP I gave it a rollcage first...does that affect the handling, etc, severely? If so, then I'll sell this current one and buy another one when it comes along (in at 1008 day mark) and I have around 13 million so money = no problem.
 
The scrolling text at the bottom of the screen in the tuning screen seems to confirm that you should refresh the chassis immediately BEFORE you install a rollcage, or install the rollcage before you drive a new car. It implies that if you install a rollcage into a bent chassis, the refresh will only restore the chassis to the shape it was when the rollcage was installed :nervous:

The increase rigidity option says:
"Although the car body is fabricated to be rigid, the body will warp slightly due to cornering and braking, and this distortion increases gradually the longer you drive the car. This is an increase in the ridigidity of the body using a rollcage and tower bars to suppress this distortion. This increase in rigidity makes the motion of the suspension more precise, which adds to the solid feeling of the body. Be careful, because this may result in an increased tendency to understeer depending on the car."

The Body Rigidity Refresher Plan says:
"The car body is constantly exposed to twisting and bending forces, and these forces act to deform the body ever so slightly each time they are applied. This body stiffness refresher plan restores a body that has been deformed over a period of time to its original condition. For a car that has had the tuning to increase rigidity, the body is restored to the same state as just after the tuning, and for a car without this tuning, the body is restored to the state of a new car. This is recommended for people who have continued to drive the same car for a long period of time."

So you can only "unbend" a car using the Refresh, and the rollcage sets the body in place (and cannot be removed).
 
OMG, thats totally retarded. But i dont know which i did first... How can i tell? The handling on the four black cars are just fine, but it just feels like thier is somehting left out. This really sucks.
 
I've driven almost 4000 kms in a-spec with the Subaru 360 portrayed in my avatar, and so far it has lost unrecoverably about 0.16 of a horsepower :lol:
In new condition it has 15.485 hp so that makes it about 1.1 percent loss.. My plan is to figure out how much you have to drive your car before it has lost the maximum amount of power which you're able to lose, and how much is that loss (I'm approximating about 15 percents)
 
OK i ran a little test to see how my r92cp stacks up against a '04 pesky.

So i ran midfield normal and got a low 1.xxx with the lmp and got the same with the r92cp. However, the r92cp seemed looser than the lmp, not by much, but still looser.

Is it because the r92cp is a group C while the pesky is a LMP, therefore the lmp will always have a tighter feel.

AND/Or is it because of the 30,000 miles on the r92cp or the rigidity before refresher thing?

Or is it all of the above. If anyone can help me you will be greatly appreciated.

Also, if you were to compare a car with 60,000 miles to the same car but new. What would be the difference?

Also what my real question is: Does mileage affect a car enough to make it noticably inferior to its newer counterpart?
 
The roll cage kinda screws up the handling of the cars, as they already have a roll cage in RL. If you can, buy the cars from yourself and start again.

Also, the black cars have a lot less power than the real version. plus the couple hp lost to mileage.
 
I finished my comparisons and all of the black cars came within .5 seconds of my pescarlo c60 '04. Im pretty sure the rollcage refresher thingy doesnt screw up your car. Either that or i was luck enough to have put the refresher in before the roll cage on all four cars.

Can anyone answer my question in read?
 
WHat is this about buying the cars from myself? Because i have realized what a difference it is. After doing some intense testing, ive realized that the r92cp is the only one that is screwed up. And it is really pissing me off. The R92cp was the one i really wanted. How do i do it? Do i need two memory cards? HOw much money do i need to buy just the r92cp? After doing it will i have two r92cp's? And will the mistake i did by putting the roll cage in before the refresh still be there? or will it be in an untouched condition?
 
Yes, first you need two memory cards, second you need the same amount of money those black cars cost originally in used car lots (nearly 3 million cr each)
It will have 0 mileage, chassis refreshened (new car) and no rollcage bought
 
As runner of what's possibly the worlds longest driven GT4 car, I know a thing or two about mileage. My 2006 Eclipse GT has covered 1.000.006.0 km, or around 620.000 miles. The car has been fully modded and tuned. Compared to a brand new Eclipse, my car has got 29 bhp less. As the car is a 400 bhp, front wheel drive car, it's not much in corners anyway. But, it doesn't feel tight anymore. Very, very sluggish, actually. I have never refreshened the car, and roll cage is not installed.
But, unless you are very good (and see the mileage), you can never guess the car has ran 1.000.000 km. So, mileage doesn't affect cars that much, as some of you might think.. Just so that's clear..
 
its a possibility....
the sets of suspension and tranny and lsd could be different than the another nissan (in test license is true... they have aids on...)
 
Speed Drifter
My plan is to figure out how much you have to drive your car before it has lost the maximum amount of power which you're able to lose, and how much is that loss (I'm approximating about 15 percents)
Click to expand...

This has been done. I can't remember who did it but a search should find it. The HP loss stops at 8000 miles, at which point an oil change will bring the engine bhp to its book value as a maximum. I think it loses 5% of its potential but my memory should not be relied upon. I really value your commitment, though, in going such a long way in what is one of the slowest cars in the game...

I have never installed the rigidity plan in any of my cars, because of the "it screwed up the handling" comments that have frequently been posted on this board.

My highest mileage a-spec car is a Lotus Elan which has around 3000 miles on it. It is highly tuned and accepts a refresh roughly every 400 miles or so. If it does not get this refresh it can get just a little bit unruly on the edge. Still handles like a total angel though :) Max power is down from 210bhp to, um, 207bhp. I think. 5% loss would put it at 199 or 200 by the time it's finished depreciating. Personally at the moment I can't say I miss the 3bhp. After a refresh the car feels as tight and competitive as it ever was.

EDIT: Oh yeah. Resale value also depreciates with mileage.
 
NO, DO NOT GET ANOTHER MOMORY CARD! When it asks you to stick the card with the garage you want to load from, just put your memory card in slot 2, then buy the car from yourself, and then stick it back in slot 1.

Speed Drifter
It will have 0 mileage, chassis refreshened (new car) and no rollcage bought
Click to expand...

No it won't, only if the original car was new, otherwise you get the same amount of mileage as it was when you bought it.
 
It is my educated opinion that all of the "Black butties" can be made very competitive with just an oil change and "rigidity refresh" (not that a stage 4 turbo kit hurts any) and i should know because i have driven 47000-ish miles in all the best cars (stock and fully tuned).
 
Wow guys! Thanks so much for all the helpful replies. This is such a good and nice community here and its a nice relief to get away from the counter-strike and WoW nerdy idots...

Anyways, I have one last question. Should i never put a roll cage in my cars? Once again guys thanks so much for the help.
 
Well, I don't put them on race cars, as they already have roll cages, but you should have the money to experiment, I found out the Impreza 22B works better with a roll cage, but some cars understeer after the tuning, but you should always get Rigidy refresher.
 
PERFECT BALANCE
No it won't, only if the original car was new, otherwise you get the same amount of mileage as it was when you bought it.
Click to expand...
Uhh..,. thanks for clearing that up, I haven't even tried buying used cars from myself and I've been so afraid of corrupting my memory card i bought another one just to do the trading trick :dunce:
 
Actually, I was wrong in my other post. My most used car is the 350Z LM race car with 3195km on it and the secondmost used is the Minolta 88C-V race car with 2900km, and I never put rollcages. You can't take that damn thing off....so every 400km or so I give it a chassis refresh and its all good.
 
UberDude
i never put the rollcage thing on my cars after i put it on the xj 220 lm race car
and all of a sudden it under steered terribly.
Click to expand...

well

yeah, it says on the scrolling text that after putting this option on some cars may understeer; thats why I never bother putting them either.
 
Alfaholic
This has been done. I can't remember who did it but a search should find it. The HP loss stops at 8000 miles, at which point an oil change will bring the engine bhp to its book value as a maximum.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry for asking a stupid question, but is 'book value' the amount of hp the car has when it's new?
 
GT4_Rule
Actually, I was wrong in my other post. My most used car is the 350Z LM race car with 3195km on it and the secondmost used is the Minolta 88C-V race car with 2900km, and I never put rollcages. You can't take that damn thing off....so every 400km or so I give it a chassis refresh and its all good.
Click to expand...
I have several cars with over 7000kms maybe I should look to see what one is most driven.
 
yea the only car i put a rollcage in is my skyline that i bought from the used car dealership when i first started the game, it did understeer on tarmac surface tracks
 
Heh, since my other post that said 3195km is the most mileage I had I've driven a lot of other cars. Some of my cars have mileage in excess of 4000miles. I've put over 600km on my black GT-One in a week though, testing at Nurb.
 
Anyone know if loss of rigidity continues until it's is nearly impossible to keep a car straight on the the track. Suppose you were to take the same car and drive for several 24 hour races with no chassis refreshing. Does the car reach a point where the steering stops degrading or does it continue to degrade each race.

Any factors that will slow down loss of chassis rigidity in a race? For example:
Softer springs. Softer shocks. Higher suspension clearance. Never going off the course. Never bumping or having another car bump into you. Are lighter cars likely to get weaker faster than heavier cars? I've driven the crap out of the Dodge RAM in dirt and road races and never refreshed the chassis, yet it steers straight as an arrow. Whereas the Suzuki GSX-R/4 feels as though it gets limp as a noodle near the end of an endurance and I've never crashed it. Maybe it's just my perception. I'm almost certain that grass-cutting will accelerate chassis wear and tear. I'd avoid that in any endurance race.

Or is it strictly a mileage issue? I've had cars that suddenly seem to go vague on steering halfway through a 24 hour race. I can't be sure since some bumping and off-course excursions usually do occur due to fatigue inattention or carelessness.

Has anyone noticed any of these instances or done any research on this matter?
 

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