'05 Ford GT Settings
- Thread starter sexydawg
- 147 comments
- 19,849 views
nelmr
Thanks for the reply and props. You say your getting a little "Jittery" where is this? (entering corner, during cornering, exiting corner, or in the straight) and the "jittery" is it hop or woble?
( If its woble exiting the corner, I got a fix for you but I wll have to play a little tonight with the LSD to get the exact setting ) If its not that fill me in on the detailes.
as for what track the settings can be used on. They were designed and tested on a wide track and are more geared to Hard High speed racing, Nurburgring, is a very narow track, I wouldnt sugest the Ford GT for that track AT ALL, I havnt driven the track much as Im working on a diferent section of the game. I would look for a M3 or Benz for that track.
Seattle hard time with these? I drive seatle with them quite a bit and smoke the copetition. where in the track do you have trouble (and witch cars are you racing important in to Race LM races with LM cars street cars have a hard time against LM), maybe a technic can help, I know some of the tracks in the GT1 & 2 series took a while to get my race lines right, and winning races seemed imposible at the time, but when you learn the lines and race them well it shows how important technic is.
- 126
- GTP_FasterNFastr
I havent tried these settings yet, infact i havent driven the GT yet either i bought it last nite and just drooled over it for a while. What i dont like about all the settings that i have seen so far is that you guys all have ASM turned on.. I look at that as a band aid to a poor set up.
If you can turn off the ASM and still drive the car and it is still controllable and can win races.. then i would call that a good set up.
right after i bought the GT i bought a z06 and did a stage 2 weight loss and stage 2 NA tune with maxed out downforce and racing suspension lowered 5mm from minimum. i like to have camber set to 4/3 f/r maybe less for the rear to give the car better more neutral stance.
basically when ever i start to mod a car all out power isnt NECESSARY.. if u need it you suck at racing. TRY to get the car to be about the same power to weight ration as the best car you are trying to beat. ( look up its stats if u need to ).
For handling i get racing brakes, and racing suspension to start. i lower the car to the minimum setting and if i find that it starts to bottom out later i will raise it slightly about 5mm. i also up the spring rates proportional to the amount i lowered the car. So the more you lower the higher the spring rates. I also bump the shocks all around 2 notches. to 7 or 8 to start. I usually dont touch the sway bars at all unless i am having problems with keeping the car balanced. I will give this car a try today and see how it does.
Lev
If you can turn off the ASM and still drive the car and it is still controllable and can win races.. then i would call that a good set up.
right after i bought the GT i bought a z06 and did a stage 2 weight loss and stage 2 NA tune with maxed out downforce and racing suspension lowered 5mm from minimum. i like to have camber set to 4/3 f/r maybe less for the rear to give the car better more neutral stance.
basically when ever i start to mod a car all out power isnt NECESSARY.. if u need it you suck at racing. TRY to get the car to be about the same power to weight ration as the best car you are trying to beat. ( look up its stats if u need to ).
For handling i get racing brakes, and racing suspension to start. i lower the car to the minimum setting and if i find that it starts to bottom out later i will raise it slightly about 5mm. i also up the spring rates proportional to the amount i lowered the car. So the more you lower the higher the spring rates. I also bump the shocks all around 2 notches. to 7 or 8 to start. I usually dont touch the sway bars at all unless i am having problems with keeping the car balanced. I will give this car a try today and see how it does.
Lev
Ford GT 2005
Settings by ProtegeLX (Updated 3/6/2005)
Spring rate 9.5/12.3
ride height 85/85
bound 2/3
rebound 4/6
camber 3.5/2.5
stabalizers 6/6
Gears
final 3.360
auto 18
Driving aids
over 10
under 10
TCS 5
LSD
Torque 12
acel 34
decel 27
beraks 5/4
downforce FULL
Ive made them MUCH better, you can be more agressive in the turns and exiting the turns.
I got some negative feedback, so I did a revamp. I ran Stock and my old set and was only improving my time by about 2-3 seconds (not impressive) So I revamped them and got a 6 second improvement from the old set on Seattle. (with the old set I ran a 1:29 & with stock 1:31, and the new set I ran 1:23.) There is the improvement I was looking for. MUCH BETTER BREAKING, Leaving the breaks LOW will slow the car faster because she has a BIG tendency to slip N slide.
There is a pic in my Sig for the Seattle time of 1:23.
ENJOY!
Settings by ProtegeLX (Updated 3/6/2005)
Spring rate 9.5/12.3
ride height 85/85
bound 2/3
rebound 4/6
camber 3.5/2.5
stabalizers 6/6
Gears
final 3.360
auto 18
Driving aids
over 10
under 10
TCS 5
LSD
Torque 12
acel 34
decel 27
beraks 5/4
downforce FULL
Ive made them MUCH better, you can be more agressive in the turns and exiting the turns.
I got some negative feedback, so I did a revamp. I ran Stock and my old set and was only improving my time by about 2-3 seconds (not impressive) So I revamped them and got a 6 second improvement from the old set on Seattle. (with the old set I ran a 1:29 & with stock 1:31, and the new set I ran 1:23.) There is the improvement I was looking for. MUCH BETTER BREAKING, Leaving the breaks LOW will slow the car faster because she has a BIG tendency to slip N slide.
There is a pic in my Sig for the Seattle time of 1:23.
ENJOY!
- 18
Special Conditions racing events 1 of the normal ones yeilds the GT concept fun car try that 1 if u really r into the GT
- 126
- GTP_FasterNFastr
ledhed
That reply was just...... im not gonna say anything about that.. NO i dont pay to have it removed.. i just turn it off. btw i drove the GT in its STOCK form and easily won all of the supercar races with it.. the brakes ROCK on this car btw.. you just need to know when to press them
now World GT Championship is another matter. I am struggling with it alot right now.. but i will see what your set ups do for me with out ASM ofcourse, this way i will find out if its compatible with my driving style or not.Ford GT 2005
Settings by ProtegeLX (Updated 3/6/2005)
Spring rate 9.5/12.3
ride height 85/85
bound 2/3
rebound 4/6
camber 3.5/2.5
toe 0/0
stabalizers 6/6
Gears
final 3.360
auto 18
Driving aids
over 10
under 10
TCS 5
LSD
Torque 12
acel 34
decel 27
beraks 5/4
downforce FULL
Ive made them MUCH better, you can be more agressive in the turns and exiting the turns.
I got some negative feedback, so I did a revamp. I ran Stock and my old set and was only improving my time by about 2-3 seconds (not impressive) So I revamped them and got a 8 second improvement from the stock set on Seattle, and she is much easyer to drive. (with the old set I ran a 1:29 & with stock 1:31, and the new set I ran 1:23.) There is the improvement I was looking for. MUCH BETTER BREAKING, Leaving the breaks LOW will slow the car faster because she has a BIG tendency to slip N slide.
There is a pic in my Sig for the Seattle time of 1:23.
Settings by ProtegeLX (Updated 3/6/2005)
Spring rate 9.5/12.3
ride height 85/85
bound 2/3
rebound 4/6
camber 3.5/2.5
toe 0/0
stabalizers 6/6
Gears
final 3.360
auto 18
Driving aids
over 10
under 10
TCS 5
LSD
Torque 12
acel 34
decel 27
beraks 5/4
downforce FULL
Ive made them MUCH better, you can be more agressive in the turns and exiting the turns.
I got some negative feedback, so I did a revamp. I ran Stock and my old set and was only improving my time by about 2-3 seconds (not impressive) So I revamped them and got a 8 second improvement from the stock set on Seattle, and she is much easyer to drive. (with the old set I ran a 1:29 & with stock 1:31, and the new set I ran 1:23.) There is the improvement I was looking for. MUCH BETTER BREAKING, Leaving the breaks LOW will slow the car faster because she has a BIG tendency to slip N slide.
There is a pic in my Sig for the Seattle time of 1:23.
awdrifter2
(Banned)
- 115
The newest set of settings are great. The GT feels like it should now. I love it. You didn't mention toe settings on your post, should I leave them at 0? Thanks.
Im doing a set up for the Ford GT LM (what a amazing car!) will have them up by tonight. (so stay tuned)
GT o5 is the second car I bought in the game and still proves to be one of the most fun to drive. My second favorot & first bought is My 02 Protege (i also own a 02 Protege as you could probably tell from the User name). Its not the most powerfull, but GOOD DAME THIS babie can handle the twisties. I ran Nubergering (Probable misspelled but who cares) in 7:44, and I hit the grass and wall twice, I'm sure I can run it under 7:40. THATS FAST for a car that tops out around 160mph and gets 12 second 1/4 mile times (the 1/4 mile time and top speed are not impressive, but the Track time is) I will post my Proteges settings tonight. I dont think there will be as much demand as there is for the GT, but its all good.
GT o5 is the second car I bought in the game and still proves to be one of the most fun to drive. My second favorot & first bought is My 02 Protege (i also own a 02 Protege as you could probably tell from the User name). Its not the most powerfull, but GOOD DAME THIS babie can handle the twisties. I ran Nubergering (Probable misspelled but who cares) in 7:44, and I hit the grass and wall twice, I'm sure I can run it under 7:40. THATS FAST for a car that tops out around 160mph and gets 12 second 1/4 mile times (the 1/4 mile time and top speed are not impressive, but the Track time is) I will post my Proteges settings tonight. I dont think there will be as much demand as there is for the GT, but its all good.
- 126
- GTP_FasterNFastr
hmm reading that alone makes the settings look much better.. the old ones werent helping me all that much, i was runnin 1:32 with them on R234 and the sauber C9 was just wiping the floor with my ford GT... he was running 1:25's, i tried it with B-spec.. and he was slower than i was at 1:33 ( oh btw i turned off all the ASM except for a setting of 1 for the TCS.. so i could reverse without vaporising the tires since i got the DFP ).
going to try out these settings tonite. I am also working on my own.. will see if i abandon them after i try yours or not.
Lev
going to try out these settings tonite. I am also working on my own.. will see if i abandon them after i try yours or not.
Lev
ProtegeLX
Thanks for the updated settings. I'll try these tonight. I wasn't able to respond since usually use the net at work so over the weekend I'm offline.
BTW... the old ford GT settings worked okay for nurb... I ran it at around 7:20-7:30 with the old settings.
I can't wait to see the new settings.
Also, I was having trouble on seattle with the American race (the first turnoment on the top of the list that has the camaro LM sometimes in it and the viper ect....) That whole series of races, not just seattle is hard for me with the GT. Perhaps these new settings will help.
nelmr
Thanks for the props< always apreciated.
And you probably wont beat that race with the GT its got pretty much all LM cars. BUT if you beat the series under it in Arerican tracks(3 Race series) you get the LM camero, I used that to beat the the first turnament on the top of the list with NO PROBLEM AT ALL.
Good luck, and hope teh new setting run nice 4 you.
- 27
I've been heavily testing settings using B-Spec for consistency. So far I've gotten 1:24.232 on Seattle 1 using the '05 Ford GT tuned to 798hp.
Here are the settings:
+Stage 3 Lightweight
+Port + Polish
+Full Engine Balancing
+Chassis Rigidity
Exhaust: Racing
Racing Chip: Sports
NA Tuning: Stage 3
Tires: R5 (Super-Soft)
Nitrous: None
Brakes: Normal
Brake Controller: None
Suspension: Standard
Stabilizers: F: 2 / R: 2
Transmission: Standard
Clutch: Triple-Plate
Flywheel: Racing
Driving Aids:
ASM Oversteer: 10
ASM Understeer: 10
TCS Controller: 5
Downforce: Maximum
Limited-Slip: Standard
I've found that heavily modifying this car hasn't helped my times. I use the stock suspension, with the stabilizers up a notch. I use the stock brakes, I don't even bother with a brake controller. The car is not equipped with nitrous at all, to help with consistency timing. The only real modifications are tuning the HP up to 798, lowering the weight of the car, and adding the wing for downforce. Give this setup a try and see how it works for you.
I'll add more tracks as I let the driver run them:
Seattle: 1:24.232
Nurburgring: 6:23.058
Tsukaba : 0:49.727
Midfield: 1:06:589
Here are the settings:
+Stage 3 Lightweight
+Port + Polish
+Full Engine Balancing
+Chassis Rigidity
Exhaust: Racing
Racing Chip: Sports
NA Tuning: Stage 3
Tires: R5 (Super-Soft)
Nitrous: None
Brakes: Normal
Brake Controller: None
Suspension: Standard
Stabilizers: F: 2 / R: 2
Transmission: Standard
Clutch: Triple-Plate
Flywheel: Racing
Driving Aids:
ASM Oversteer: 10
ASM Understeer: 10
TCS Controller: 5
Downforce: Maximum
Limited-Slip: Standard
I've found that heavily modifying this car hasn't helped my times. I use the stock suspension, with the stabilizers up a notch. I use the stock brakes, I don't even bother with a brake controller. The car is not equipped with nitrous at all, to help with consistency timing. The only real modifications are tuning the HP up to 798, lowering the weight of the car, and adding the wing for downforce. Give this setup a try and see how it works for you.
I'll add more tracks as I let the driver run them:
Seattle: 1:24.232
Nurburgring: 6:23.058
Tsukaba : 0:49.727
Midfield: 1:06:589
LightningX
AND B-SPEC USES NITRO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Its the little flame above the car in the monitor screen!
Drive your own tracks ( I dont even know my B-specs time)
Dude check the PIC in mi Signature, I got 1:23 on seattle hitting the wall in turn 6 & I wasnt even trying, I could get better still.
Click on the link in my Sig for the page with the settings
- 27
ProtegeLX
It's not using nitrous because my car is not equipped with it. My B-Spec driver hits the wall usually at 2 points in the Seattle track too.
If you can do better why don't you do it.
B-Spec is ideal for tuning because there is consistency.
- 27
Here is an A-Spec time of my settings using nitrous at full power (50). 1:22.750
SO YOUWANT TO RACE!
Notice in My pic There is only half Nitro used (On the third Lap) but NO PROB Ill race it tonight, and we will see
I got 1:23 with 30 Nitro, and only half used in 2 laps, and I wasnt really trying for a fast track time, just a average feel of the handeling, but tonight I will.
ASWELL, Ive been doing some testing with My AI as the principle driver to monitor changes better. I raced NO RACES AT ALL LAST NIGHT, just rigorous testing.
And I have some Results, First off My settings beat yours everytime around the track with the AI driving, what was upsetting to me and the reason I spent so much time Tunning last night was because the diference was about .250 seconds off in the first lap and the 4th lap(It ALL, time depends on the amout of dammage done hitting the wall) and The first and 4th lap were always the fastest, but always sniffing the ass of the Ghost of the run with my settings.
I wanted to improve this so I tuned to get a faster time, but realise the AI driver Will always hit certain walls and if there is a hit the Data is useless. (the time will always depend on how bad the hit was. SOOOOOOO, the best solution was to go to another track for testing. Here comes High Speed Ring. I run the Ai and get pretty much the same thing My Latest settings(not posted yet will finish my testing tonight, and I wont race another race untill I do) Beats yours Everytime so I moved on from them to simply improving my time and ITS BEEN HARD, I always get improvements but they are alwasy increments of around .055, and the increases are always in teh 4th and 7th lap (frustraiting!!) So I have been able to make improvements to the time but I will be moving to another track tonight to have a more data piled up and hopefully some Mods with more evident gains.
BUT none the less, The Ghost ALWAYS IN THE LEAD was My set up (another frustrating point is if you leave the suspention stock fully set up it goes faster then with it fullly upgraded and stock settings (atleast on Seattle and HSR, I will run more tracks tonight), the benifits of the racing suspention are once tuned it can go faster and handle better, but it needs tunning)
I will CERTAIN ly up the Nitro boost and make a run for a fast time on the track with the curent set up (getting less then 1:22 shouldnt be a be a Prob)
Notice in My pic There is only half Nitro used (On the third Lap) but NO PROB Ill race it tonight, and we will see
I got 1:23 with 30 Nitro, and only half used in 2 laps, and I wasnt really trying for a fast track time, just a average feel of the handeling, but tonight I will.
ASWELL, Ive been doing some testing with My AI as the principle driver to monitor changes better. I raced NO RACES AT ALL LAST NIGHT, just rigorous testing.
And I have some Results, First off My settings beat yours everytime around the track with the AI driving, what was upsetting to me and the reason I spent so much time Tunning last night was because the diference was about .250 seconds off in the first lap and the 4th lap(It ALL, time depends on the amout of dammage done hitting the wall) and The first and 4th lap were always the fastest, but always sniffing the ass of the Ghost of the run with my settings.
I wanted to improve this so I tuned to get a faster time, but realise the AI driver Will always hit certain walls and if there is a hit the Data is useless. (the time will always depend on how bad the hit was. SOOOOOOO, the best solution was to go to another track for testing. Here comes High Speed Ring. I run the Ai and get pretty much the same thing My Latest settings(not posted yet will finish my testing tonight, and I wont race another race untill I do) Beats yours Everytime so I moved on from them to simply improving my time and ITS BEEN HARD, I always get improvements but they are alwasy increments of around .055, and the increases are always in teh 4th and 7th lap (frustraiting!!) So I have been able to make improvements to the time but I will be moving to another track tonight to have a more data piled up and hopefully some Mods with more evident gains.
BUT none the less, The Ghost ALWAYS IN THE LEAD was My set up (another frustrating point is if you leave the suspention stock fully set up it goes faster then with it fullly upgraded and stock settings (atleast on Seattle and HSR, I will run more tracks tonight), the benifits of the racing suspention are once tuned it can go faster and handle better, but it needs tunning)
I will CERTAIN ly up the Nitro boost and make a run for a fast time on the track with the curent set up (getting less then 1:22 shouldnt be a be a Prob)
- 126
- GTP_FasterNFastr
Ok i have a challange for you guys.. post your best time on R234 with the GT.. i have basically given up trying to win World GT Championship with the ford GT.. no matter how i tune it and how well i drive it the best time i got was a 1:31.xxx btw im using R3(medium tires) and this isnt even that good... the competition doesnt pit for the whole 10 laps!
I tried this race with a stock CLK GTR.. i stayed in the lead untill lap 8 and then my tires got RED i was running on R2's
pug905 and 787B and sauber c9 rape me after that with them being hot on my tail the whole time.
Best on that track with the Ford GT 1:31, opponents run 1:25's, best with the CLK GTR 1:24ish i think.. full mods didn help me much on this track. they still keep up with me.
Oh and my B-spec driver must be piss stupid or cant drive for ****. In an equally matched car he would place consistenly LAST... i managed to get him to get 4th place.. For him to win he needs 2x the power of all the othercars i think..
It is my understanding that the Ford GT is just outclassed in the World GT Championship. Does anyone agree? whats is a good car to beat this? Should i futz with the CLK? or save up for a proper LM car?
EDIT: i forgot to mention the GT is FASTER than all the other cars on R234 around all the steady state corners.. BUT.. the cars achilles heel is the esses!!! the back straight where you have to ride the curbs where the asphalt is red if the brakes are applied in ANYTHING but a straight line the rear SNAPS and if you even clip the wall sligtly the car will spin.. the same thing happens on the esses following the double apex right hairpin where the asphalt has red lines on it. that part when you need to brake for the blind left... i either go through too slow or spin. The CLK can drive the whole track easily with little issues.. and none of this behaviour but it burns up tires.. I may be overdriving it.. but when i got cars .5-1.5 seconds behind me .. what can i do?
I tried this race with a stock CLK GTR.. i stayed in the lead untill lap 8 and then my tires got RED i was running on R2's
pug905 and 787B and sauber c9 rape me after that with them being hot on my tail the whole time. Best on that track with the Ford GT 1:31, opponents run 1:25's, best with the CLK GTR 1:24ish i think.. full mods didn help me much on this track. they still keep up with me.
Oh and my B-spec driver must be piss stupid or cant drive for ****. In an equally matched car he would place consistenly LAST... i managed to get him to get 4th place.. For him to win he needs 2x the power of all the othercars i think..
It is my understanding that the Ford GT is just outclassed in the World GT Championship. Does anyone agree? whats is a good car to beat this? Should i futz with the CLK? or save up for a proper LM car?
EDIT: i forgot to mention the GT is FASTER than all the other cars on R234 around all the steady state corners.. BUT.. the cars achilles heel is the esses!!! the back straight where you have to ride the curbs where the asphalt is red if the brakes are applied in ANYTHING but a straight line the rear SNAPS and if you even clip the wall sligtly the car will spin.. the same thing happens on the esses following the double apex right hairpin where the asphalt has red lines on it. that part when you need to brake for the blind left... i either go through too slow or spin. The CLK can drive the whole track easily with little issues.. and none of this behaviour but it burns up tires.. I may be overdriving it.. but when i got cars .5-1.5 seconds behind me .. what can i do?
