A-spec Race Challenges #5: 07/08/2014 - 21/08/2014

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Funny, that car was the next one on my list for Seasonal... :)

Is it a winner? Against wich "rabbits"? TY!
A "WINNER " of course :) FTO Super Touring car - Underrated "Sleeper" Give this little beauty a try you will be impressed đź‘Ť

Results thus far


Rabbit - My result

GTR - LeMans - 2nd -Should have won , but spun out :irked:
McLaren F1 - 2nd
Corvette CS-R - 1st
SLS AMG '13 - 1st
Zonda LM Race Car - 1st
Ford GT LM Race Car - 1st
Ford GT LM SpecII Test - 1st

:cheers:
 
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A "WINNER " of course :) FTO Super Touring car - Underrated "Sleeper" Give this little beauty a try you will be impressed đź‘Ť

Results thus far


Rabbit - My result

GTR - LeMans - 2nd -Should have won , but spun out :irked:
McLaren F1 - 2nd
Corvette CS-R - 1st
SLS AMG '13 - 1st
Zonda LM Race Car - 1st
Ford GT LM Race Car - 1st
Ford GT LM SpecII Test - 1st

:cheers:

TY sir! Will do...

EDIT: The BMW McLaren F1 is the thoughest, right? :grumpy:
 
Won it again with the BMW M3 GT2 Base Model. The time was 6:45.xxx against the Nismo Z GT500 and the SLS GT3 as the lead rabbits. The car could be faster.
 
After getting thirs two times with my C6 LM and my M3 touring car I decided to "cheat" and use the 2J. Easy victory
:lol:
 
I've noticed a little "cheat". It is possible to take advantage of the rubberband AI. Do a sloppy and slow S1 (well over 50sec, up to around 55sec), and then go full speed for the rest of the NĂĽrb. The AI will be at least 10s slower over the lap compared to when you go full attack from get-go.
 
I've noticed a little "cheat". It is possible to take advantage of the rubberband AI. Do a sloppy and slow S1 (well over 50sec, up to around 55sec), and then go full speed for the rest of the NĂĽrb. The AI will be at least 10s slower over the lap compared to when you go full attack from get-go.

I think this Nurburgring Seasonal has way too many gimmicks associated with the AI race cars and I have won this race with the TSO30 Hybrid and the BMW M3 GTR Race Car going full out from the get go.
 
... wonder how anyone can do 6min plus which must be amazing. Are the 6 min total time or just racing time?

6 minute plus is just for the lap. Total time includes the ~50 seconds of leisurely rolling start, so it's always over 7 minutes for me.
 
Reporting back:
I tried all 3 events yesterday all with stock cars without any tune.
Beginner: Easy win with Lotus Elise 11 stock car in 1st try.
Intermediate: Not so easy but not so hard win with BMW M5 stock car with 2 trials.
Expert Nurburgring: 3rd with Toyota Hybrid T030 (8:05 total time), 4th with BMW McLaren F1 (8:25 total time). I don't know this track much and drive slower than most people for sure. Why is the total time much more than the lap time??

All of these are completed with ALL CLEAN PASSES and CLEAN LINE without cutting corner and lot of time I have to wait for the stupid AIs in the back before they open up because sometimes 2 or 3 of the AIs block the whole road especially at Nurburgring.
 
Reporting back:
I tried all 3 events yesterday all with stock cars without any tune.
Beginner: Easy win with Lotus Elise 11 stock car in 1st try.
Intermediate: Not so easy but not so hard win with BMW M5 stock car with 2 trials.
Expert Nurburgring: 3rd with Toyota Hybrid T030 (8:05 total time), 4th with BMW McLaren F1 (8:25 total time). I don't know this track much and drive slower than most people for sure. Why is the total time much more than the lap time??

All of these are completed with ALL CLEAN PASSES and CLEAN LINE without cutting corner and lot of time I have to wait for the stupid AIs in the back before they open up because sometimes 2 or 3 of the AIs block the whole road especially at Nurburgring.

It's the windup time before the start. Stay with the Toyota Hybrid and you will win for sure. Put a slight touch to the rear bumper and they will get out of your way.
 
I feel like I really lucked out when I did the Nurburgring race. I used a TS030 and was primarily against GT500 cars. The two lead cars were the IS F Touring car and the '97 Castrol Tom's Supra. I passed them just after the Karussel, and won the race with a 7 second lead. My lap time was 6:27. (7:18 if you count the rolling start).

The other two races were fairly easy. Snagged first place not that far into the second lap of the Silverstone race with my '02 NSX Type R, and just spent most of the race fooling around. Not overly concerned with taking the racing line, I just drifted my way around corners, and I never saw that Gallardo that was originally leading after I passed him. The beginner race was a little trickier but not by much. I used a '74 Triumph Spitfire and kept it a fairly close race.
 
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Oops, I did it again:) 20140814_010651.jpg
 
I don't think this car has been mentioned yet for the expert series. So I'll just say that the Garaiya GT300 base model '08 is capable of beating the fastest of grids and doesn't look out of place while doing so either..
 
I like to try these A-spec Seasonals using a car available in my garage with around 100 PP less than the maximum. The expert races usually prove to be difficult and I wind up winning with a car close to the maximum anyway.

I started out with the Audi A4 Tourer first but could only get silver after a few attempts. I then used the Lexus IS F Tourer but couldn't even get bronze.

My last chance was the Honda HSV (15th Anniversary edition) which has been one of my favorite and most championed car. After one failed attempt I did it the second time around.

I'll tell you what though, the AI makes some funny errors. Watch the video and check out the Audi R8 RMS at the end of Klostertal. (Brake failure maybe?)

All in all I was pleased with my result, though I'm guilty of a couple bump passes mainly due to the short sprint and the AI's typically oblivious behavior. If I had another lap I'd likely pass a little more conservatively.

 
Alas i got the monkey off my back.
Gold with a weak lineup of corvette at the front. Took 2 more tries .... stock ts030 reduced to 600pp and transmission to 330kph. Kudos to those doing this race so much faster. Looks like 7:26 usually wins in a weaker lineup.
Still at career iB so back to progressing in game
 
This might be a silly question, but does anyone apply "Improve Body Rigidity" to a car like the Toyota TS030 Hybrid? I went in to Pit Service, just to check and make sure I still had green lights for all three service areas and Improve Body Rigidity caught my eye. If you have applied it, are you happy you did? Would you say the car drives better/easier? Or do you think it hurt the overall handling of the car?
 
I don't get the timing.
Using the M3 Motorsport '11. Lap time by the on screen timing is 7:02. Third place on track.
Why does the official timing show 7:48.…?

PD need to get rid of this single file rubberbanding crap.
 
This might be a silly question, but does anyone apply "Improve Body Rigidity" to a car like the Toyota TS030 Hybrid? I went in to Pit Service, just to check and make sure I still had green lights for all three service areas and Improve Body Rigidity caught my eye. If you have applied it, are you happy you did? Would you say the car drives better/easier? Or do you think it hurt the overall handling of the car?

Many of the top tuners do not recommend that you do this. After a few hundred miles/km, you should click on the 'Restore Body Rigidity' button.
 
I don't get the timing.
Using the M3 Motorsport '11. Lap time by the on screen timing is 7:02. Third place on track.
Why does the official timing show 7:48.…?

PD need to get rid of this single file rubberbanding crap.
That 7:48 includes the time that you were still in the parade of cars, driving slowly to the starting line. Once car #1 crosses that line the Official Time begins counting.

Many of the top tuners do not recommend that you do this. After a few hundred miles/km, you should click on the 'Restore Body Rigidity' button.
Ok, good to know. I didn't purchase it. But I've wanted to ask the question in the past and kept forgetting.
 
Woohooo! I did all three using only Corvettes! Tsukuba with a stock (except SH tires) C2, Silverstone with a stock (again SH tires) C7, and NĂĽrburgring with a 600PP C6 Z06 LM (previously tuned to C6.R GT1 specs).
 
Hmmm. Where exactly are you having problems?

I normally put the transmission to around 300 kmh. I like tight brakes, so I normally have them at 8 and 10, respectively.

Then it is really just a matter of knowing the course, I guess. Nurnburg is really fun, because it is such a long course - which means one has to invest more time into it, learning it. And of course with the changing elevation, the narrow track, and the rather irksome AI makes for some really fun racing!

This race doesn't penalize for leaving the track, or for collisions, so one doesn't have to be as precise as, say, Le Sarthe.

So when I come to an opponent, I normally look at it like this :

Opponent car up ahead - I think of it as an obstacle of the course itself. So which way to get around it? Left, right, or wait a bit. These are normally the three options that pop up in my head. I am concentrating, of course, on the track - what is coming up ahead. If it is a straight, I normally take the way of least resistence, providing it looks like I can accomplish this before a corner comes. If there is more room on the left, pass left, etc.

Sometimes it is more prudent to wait a bit, to see what the opponent actually does. The AI is kind of quirky, and either stays on the optimal path, or suddenly shoots across left or right, for no apparent reason other than to shut you out.

If a corner is coming up before I think I can pass (or I am in a corner), due to the rather lax rules here, I try to pass on the inside. You can do this with more speed than would be possible in the corner because you can use your opponent to "brake" with and get through the corner quicker. It does require some practice, and of course it can result in you spinning of the track, so keep that in mind.

That is basically it, really. The only other bit of advice I can give is that if you reach the long straight in front, you can block your opponents who close in from behind and keep them from passing. It is fairly easy on the NR track, as it is so narrow.

I hope that helps a bit.

I have my issues with the twists and turns of the course. I'll keep plugging away and use the advice you have and I'll get there I hope. Thanks for responding and for the advice.
 
Perhaps this little bit may help further @testorz

Try to turn into the curve BEFORE the curve - because your brain is using "old" visual information (which basically means that although you are driving in real time, your brain is translating this information and is actually a bit in the past). So, the better you know the course, the better you can anticipate the curves and turn beforehand, respectively.

I know this sounds a bit strange, but it is how I drive (not saying I am one of the best here - on the contrary, I normally land in the 10,000 range - but I do get gold with these techniques, and I am 50 years old, so perhaps they might help someone else).
 
Perhaps this little bit may help further @testorz

Try to turn into the curve BEFORE the curve - because your brain is using "old" visual information (which basically means that although you are driving in real time, your brain is translating this information and is actually a bit in the past). So, the better you know the course, the better you can anticipate the curves and turn beforehand, respectively.

I know this sounds a bit strange, but it is how I drive (not saying I am one of the best here - on the contrary, I normally land in the 10,000 range - but I do get gold with these techniques, and I am 50 years old, so perhaps they might help someone else).

Perfect advice on anticipating the curves and turning beforehand as old time versus real time does make a big difference in the brain for sure. I am 69 years old myself.
 
Guess I'm a fairly average driver around these traps, but I've been grinding the North Field to gain creds on both my GT6 accounts. I use one for testing cars and selecting a chosen few.

Anyhoo, after failing attain more than 5th with the Z4 GT3, I was running sweetly with the trusty Audi R10 LMP which needed a line up of GT500/Touring cars. PB with the R10 was a race time of 7:32.358, but mostly 7:34's. Tuned the Toyota 7 which appeared to be good on spec, but it was atrocious if clipping slightly off track.

I then switched to the trusty C60-Judd '05 and was ripping through the fields for a PB so far of 7:33.177, but was a much easier pace to maintain. Easiest grids are with the following listed in P1 to P3: Camaro Lm Tourer, Viper GTS-R, Corvette Z06 (C6) or Nissan GTR R35 Tourer.

I have focus issues from a head concussion when my bike was T-Boned by a cager on his mobile, a couple years back, so reckon I'm doing fairly well. I can just maintain good pace for around 10 mins so these events are great.
Rewarded my efforts with a Daytona Coupe and the GT350 Shelby.

Cheers.
 
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Many of the top tuners do not recommend that you do this. After a few hundred miles/km, you should click on the 'Restore Body Rigidity' button.
I should maybe add that I always add the rigidity improvement... I'm not sure I notice any difference, It's mostly about my subconscious knowing its there that makes the difference.

When I dont use it, the car feels sluggish, but I'm 100% sure that is only in my head. Still, my laptimes is better with it installed.
 
et_
I should maybe add that I always add the rigidity improvement... I'm not sure I notice any difference, It's mostly about my subconscious knowing its there that makes the difference.

When I dont use it, the car feels sluggish, but I'm 100% sure that is only in my head. Still, my laptimes is better with it installed.
I've been adding this Rigidity to rear engine vehicles that severely oversteer or are overly sensitive when steering out of high speed corners. Especially when overly stiff springs are not helpful. Definitely not for FWD/4WD though. But I have noticed you still have to restore rigidity after x amount of kms.

My Judd has begun to deteriorate, does anyone know if the indicator colour changes as it deteriorates further?
 
I've been adding this Rigidity to rear engine vehicles that severely oversteer or are overly sensitive when steering out of high speed corners. Especially when overly stiff springs are not helpful. Definitely not for FWD/4WD though. But I have noticed you still have to restore rigidity after x amount of kms.

My Judd has begun to deteriorate, does anyone know if the indicator colour changes as it deteriorates further?
Remember the 530PP Nissan Skyline seasonal at autumn ring?
that is a 4WD car, and I used rigidity improvement, and gues who won it...:sly:
 
et_
Remember the 530PP Nissan Skyline seasonal at autumn ring?
that is a 4WD car, and I used rigidity improvement, and gues who won it...:sly:
Oh, I see, my mistake. So it mustn't restrict yaw in a overly restrictive way like GT4/5. Well it did for me anyway.
 
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