ABS issue

2

22CivicSport

6
Canada
Canada
Very recently i have encountered something odd with the ABS and was wondering if anyone else has had this issue and if so, how they fixed it. First, i do have the ABS set to weak as i always did. I just can't get the hang of not locking it up yet. I use the G29 steering wheel with peddles. Lately, over the past 2 weeks or so, I have noticed that no matter the situation, whether i have just applied brakes, not applied brakes or just in general going around curves or straightaways, that my ABS will activate arbitraily at any given time and the only way i can disengage ABS is to quickly tap the brakes at which point it disengages. It happens numerous times each lap and not always at the same locations. Also happens on all tracks.

Any help with figuring this out would be appreciated.

I tried with no ABS and as i said all i do is lock up the brakes when i touch them.

Thanks
 
I have a G29, and the last time I used it I haven't encountered this problem but I was having trouble with the sensitivity of all inputs.

Have you tried to adjust your deadzones and linearity in the game settings menu? This sorted out my issue.

I know everyone has their own 'feel' to driving but I can post my pedal settings when I'm next online if that helps (my pedals are not modded in any way)
 
Last edited:
TumeK5
I think you're mixing up the term ABS with "brakes".

Your wheel's pedals appear to be faulty, if the brake pedal applies on its own.
Click to expand...
No, i do not think so. The ABS light on the game view is what is lighting up. when i tap the brake pedal the light goes out then comes back on later arbitrarily
 
22CivicSport
No, i do not think so. The ABS light on the game view is what is lighting up. when i tap the brake pedal the light goes out then comes back on later arbitrarily
Click to expand...
Create a short video and upload it to YT, then it would be easier to identify the issue.
 
P-Courty
I have a G29, and the last time I used it I haven't encountered this problem but I was having trouble with the sensitivity of all inputs.

Have you tried to adjust your deadzones and linearity in the game settings menu? This sorted out my issue.

I know everyone has their own 'feel' to driving but I can post my pedal settings when I'm next online if that helps (my pedals are not modded in any way)
Click to expand...
that would be appreciated, thanks
 
22CivicSport
No, i do not think so. The ABS light on the game view is what is lighting up. when i tap the brake pedal the light goes out then comes back on later arbitrarily
Click to expand...
Is there any kind of line on the brake indicator, or are your brake lights on in 3rd person view? If there is, then you have a potentiometer issue with your brake pedal. It's a well known issue with the G29. Cleaning it would fix it, or changing the dead zone in game would alleviate it.

58ciy48b.png
 
Last edited:
coryclifford
Dirty potentiometer
Click to expand...
daan
It's a well known issue with the G29. Cleaning it would fix it, or changing the dead zone in game would alleviate it.
Click to expand...
What he said.

See here...

www.gtplanet.net

Where to find replacement potentiometer for G27?

For my accelerator pedal, it keeps spiking at idle, and cuts out when accelerating. I’ve already opened the pedals and sprayed electrical contact cleaner in the potentiometer port about 3 times already, and the next time I open up the pedals I just want to go ahead and replace the...
www.gtplanet.net www.gtplanet.net

Oh and I had exactly the same issue with the ABS/brake pot too. I replaced it with a Ricmotec load cell, which is awesome, but the linear pot replacement above is cheaper, and probably just as effective.
 
Last edited:
22CivicSport
Thank you , this seemed to work for now.
Click to expand...

Glad to help.

If it still feels like the brakes are too sharp too quick, then just increase the 'minimum input' and (depending how hard you press at full brake force) the 'maximum input'.

Whilst on that screen, you can press the pedals to see how much inside these lines you actually use.

I tend to press the brake harder than the maximum but that is only if I really stamp on them so I reduced this to 69% as that is roughly what I tend to need as maximum whilst racing.
 
Last edited:
I also have a G29 playing GT7, and before that, a G920 on an Xbox One playing F1 2020. I've had similar issues.

In F1 2020, the DRS would start randomly deactivating itself. It should deactivate as soon as I hit the brakes, but it started switching itself off while still under full throttle.

In GT7, to simplify the installation, I only swapped the G29 wheel on my seat. I kept the G920 pedals.

Recently I noticed what you have. The ABS light would linger after I'd released the brakes, and then started randomly flashing on down the main straight, and probably anywhere while I wasn't braking but may have been too focussed on the track or other cars to notice. Jabbing the brake pedal clears it but only until the next time I brake, or the time after that.

Both times, the problem was a dirty potentiometer. The first two times on F1 2020, I dismantled the base, sprayed the pots with contact cleaner, and that fixed the problem (for about a year).

In GT7, I swapped the pedals for the G29 ones instead. It solved the problem. Then I cleaned the pots on the old (G920) set before putting it in storage.

Your problem, I am completely sure, is dirty pots. Cleaning them is the best solution. Playing with the sensitivity reduced it but didn't fix it. The problem will also just steadily get worse if left untouched.

In both cases, another clue was that, under partial pressure, the handy brake pressure bar on the GT7 HUD would flutter around the applied brake strength. When the pots are cleaned, the pressure bar stays steady. It doesn't twitch up and down. Same in F1 2020's calibration screen.

Less noticeable, sometimes on the straight you'll feel like the accelerator isn't pulling fully or consistently. This is because your brakes are being applied (not by you but by the dirty pot) and the brake pressure is inconsistent.
 
Last edited:
And a curveball solution that really doesn’t make sense to me because it shouldn’t work, but has fixed the dirty potentiometers ever since, is use WD40. Stick the spray tube down there towards the pot thing and spray it. A friend said he did and it worked and I was like, might as well at this point…

It’s completely solved my constant cleaning I used to do.
 
When taking it apart, it's the silver screws in the base not the black screws (the black ones hold the pedal units on), don't forget about the two screws hidden under the carpet grabber - you need to release the grabber into its deployed position to get to them - and also be aware that when you open it up there's a frigile looking wire connected to both the base and the top, which doesn't allow them to be very far apart. Separate the base plate from the top carefully.

Obviously (or it will be obvious soon enough if you try open it without doing this) the aluminium pedals need to be removed from their actuators first.
 

Latest Posts

Back