ABS

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B80

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How are people finding it on this game. Reading through threads, seems people (previously?) Tended to run with it on, with other aids off.

I'm not an experienced racer, in recent years, only played with fh5, where many moved to disabling once familiar with the game and for quicker times.

Once the current view point on it for gt7? Notice the 'weak' option is there.
 
Still not too sure with GT7 but I guess it's the same as in GTS - that there is no ffb for braking (load cell users?) so everyone runs with it on. Even the all stars use abs on GTS.
 
Today i tried it with all i got, 2 times Sardegena WTC800 without ABS, i'm a no assist driver on controller, and i'm not an A+ driver, but managed almost everything gold before the update, got platinum, so that's not the problem.

But driving with ABS off is a real b*ich.
I have never set somany skidmarks on Sardegena...., i drove with the 787B but i'm seconds slower without the ABS, i just can't get the feeling when the lockup comes, it either is there suddenly or it's not,

I think Assists are there to help you, on one hand for safety, on the otherhand to make you faster.

I can't imagine anyone beeing faster with ABS turned off completely, weak is fine, but the difference between weak and off is enormous.

What about you guys?.,
 
Compared to other games I've played the setup options for bias just aren't right and no ability to a just the peddle curve makes this one of the hardest games to run without abs. FH5 was dodgy as well you though you were adding more pressure to the front brakes but nope it was reversed EH?
 
Clearly with ABS on normal.... there are very few situations where ABS OFF would really be an advantage... and seen over a whole race.. driving with ABS is guaranteed to be faster than without... because A single mistake because the wheels have locked and you fly out of the curve because of it, absolutely destroys the smallest advantage.

If there were real FFB pedals, where you could feel the behavior of the wheels in the pedals and ideally still in the seat, then it would probably be better without ABS.
 
I've actually been experimenting with it off the last few days - mainly on road cars and a select few race cars when I do a couple of laps of the ring first thing for my daily work out.

It's very sensitive like others said, tire marks and smoke everywhere lol!

I find if I press the brake extremely gently they are very effective and don't lock up the wheels, however it's in the back of your mind and I find myself way slower and braking for longer very early, or slight tap cadence braking.

I actually discovered on the Civic Touring (UCD car) with ABS off I couldn't get her to lock up....could of just been a weird bug, but tried it twice and it was a thing somehow.
 
I typically run completely assist-free on any PC based sim using a rig, but on a console using a controller, it's a different story. I want to enjoy my time and play in a car more relaxed fashion, and certainly for me, the controller doesn't afford you the same fidelity that a pedal set does.

I run with ABS Weak, occasionally TC1 on some of the more powerful road cars. Any Gr4/Gr3 cars, I turn TC off completely, but I'll leave ABS Weak on.

I'm pleased to see it's not just me that relies on it :)
 
On a controller (triggers for throttle/brake) I run Gr.1, Gr.2, Gr.B without ABS along with any of the other cars that don't have it in real life. It just takes some practice to get used to how you have to bleed the brake pressure off as the car slows and the downforce drops. It's not going to be quicker than running ABS weak in 99% of scenarios but I like to try and run with realistic driving aids, have done since GT5. Pretty much every car I've come across has been fine, you just have to fiddle about with the bias and get something you're comfortable with. The one issue I found was with the LM55 Gr.1 which seems to be bugged as -5 still locks the rears and makes it hard to drive.

It would be nice if you could switch between low, medium and high friction pads as a setup option to adjust how much braking strength you have for a given input. I feel like an option like this would open it up to more people whatever input method they use. It would also be nice to have a larger brake bias range with more steps in between, much like GT Sport I find I'd like to have 1.5 or 2.5 as a setting but it doesn't exist. If they changed it to go from -10 to +10 it would help a great deal.

The biggest tip I can give is to turn the tyre sounds up as high as possible as it allows you to judge the grip a lot more accurately.
 
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I gave no ABS a try with a stiff load cell setup on the launch physics but I found the locking up point was just too hard to judge during trail braking. To be fair, the first lot of physics probably wasn't the best time to try it so I'll give it another try in the future. Maybe try and dial in my pedal's calibration tool to suit it better.

I'd only turn it off for offline, though. A bit of online adrenaline would have me locking up constantly.
 
I gave no ABS a try with a stiff load cell setup on the launch physics but I found the locking up point was just too hard to judge during trail braking. To be fair, the first lot of physics probably wasn't the best time to try it so I'll give it another try in the future. Maybe try and dial in my pedal's calibration tool to suit it better.

I'd only turn it off for offline, though. A bit of online adrenaline would have me locking up constantly.
What pedals are you using out of curiosity? The TLCM’s?
 
No ABS only gives you an advantage on gravel/dirt tracks -- here tire lockup is beneficial now and then. On road surface, the ABS in GT7 is a perfect ABS and will always do perfect threshold braking. Thus ABS on is always better in GT7 than human braking as you would need to manually follow the changing tire traction to achieve maximum braking deceleration.

That said, for cars with a weak braking system and on comfort tires or for cars that don't have ABS in real life i find it more interesting to turn off ABS -- on comfort tires the locking is not that abrupt. Turning the tire sound louder can also help to get a 'feel' for the brake lock threshold.

It's unfortunate that the ABS is not different for each car and does not resemble the actual real life ABS installed. I would love to have that 'real' ABS option.
 
Nice! How you liking them? What spring combo+% are you running for GT7 so far? I have both reds, 3 washers and 90% as of right now I think. Been thinking about upping it to 100% though, it still feels a bit to easy to hit 100% braking.
I have also gifted me the TLCM pedals a couple of weeks ago, and at first i found the standard grey springs very stiff -- but since getting used to 'brake-by-pressure' feel i also switched to all red springs and now find this setup a bit too mooshy. :crazy: I calibrated to 70%, with higher values my Wheel Stand Pro will start to slide if i brake fully. :D
 
Nice! How you liking them? What spring combo+% are you running for GT7 so far? I have both reds, 3 washers and 90% as of right now I think. Been thinking about upping it to 100% though, it still feels a bit to easy to hit 100% braking.
Gotta say I love them after years of potentiometer guesswork.:dopey:

I've got the same springs but no washers and 80%. I prefer a nice bit of preload in my road cars but the force is about as high as I can go with the center post on my rig and my foot angled towards it.
 
I usually run with ABS off but am probably quicker with it on. My memory may be a little rusty from GTSport, but it seems things are different in GT7. So now with ABS on weak or even default you can still, eventually, get slightly red front tyres under braking. With it off you can get massive red wheel lock but the car starts to slip quite a lot before that happens. This is perhaps due to an update in the tyre model rather than the ABS model? You can drift a surprising amount without tyres actually smoking.

Brake upgrades make a huge difference if you are/are not using ABS. With big brakes and no ABS you will lock easily, especially at lower speeds, and this can be close to uncontrollable on Comfort tyres. With ABS on you can pretty much just dump the pedal and let the ABS sort it out. But I still think that when the ABS engages (the ABS light pulses), you lose a bit of steering ability, so its still useful to be able to trail brake with decent pedal control. Racing tyres on a road car often mean you can fit the best brakes and still not lock these tyres.

Adjusting bias rearwards will weaken the front brake pressure so you can sometimes go from a hair trigger front brake to one that now won't lock, which will necessitate going up a grade of brake pads (or even more sometimes).

Even if you run with ABS on, I suggest trying some tuning with it off, particularly when selecting brakes and bias, since you get to see which wheels lock when. Once you've optimised this, you can re enable the ABS, knowing what sort of foundations it's working on. It will also make you develop sensitive trigger control (on controller); likewise with throttle control when using no TCS.
 
Ok look at this from another point of view...
Would you drive your real car, on highways, on the streets, in rain or shine WITHOUT ABS active in your real car, I would NOT. I had it go out at the most worst time, rainy night, and the slightest press on the brakes and I was locked up and sliding, quickly released to gain control and remaining time that night i gently was tapping brakes rapidly to come to a good stop.
 
Ok look at this from another point of view...
Would you drive your real car, on highways, on the streets, in rain or shine WITHOUT ABS active in your real car, I would NOT. I had it go out at the most worst time, rainy night, and the slightest press on the brakes and I was locked up and sliding, quickly released to gain control and remaining time that night i gently was tapping brakes rapidly to come to a good stop.
stop using your brake pedal like an on/off switch
 
stop using your brake pedal like an on/off switch
I don't, I apply brakes gradually as needed but when my ABS went out that one time even gentle brake was like I was stomping on pedal and locking it up
 
Ok look at this from another point of view...
Would you drive your real car, on highways, on the streets, in rain or shine WITHOUT ABS active in your real car, I would NOT. I had it go out at the most worst time, rainy night, and the slightest press on the brakes and I was locked up and sliding, quickly released to gain control and remaining time that night i gently was tapping brakes rapidly to come to a good stop.

I don’t believe my old ‘87 RX7 had ABS, but it was never an issue. I can really only remember one time of actually locking the brakes.
 
I don’t believe my old ‘87 RX7 had ABS, but it was never an issue. I can really only remember one time of actually locking the brakes.
But the FC3S had ABS, I know that because I probably would have taken off with it without ABS ;D ABS really saved my life on a dark road when a couple of deer crossed the road in front of me. I had a Bj91 FC, I really enjoyed it, but it wasn't in good condition and would have cost me too much to get it back into top shape, so our "love affair" only lasted one summer. But at the same time I also had a BJ88 626 GT Coupé 2.0 16V. This also already had ABS.


On the subject of T-LCM.
I am also very satisfied with these pedals, for the money there is definitely nothing comparable on the market.
I drive with 2 x red and complete disks. The load is 70%, which I will probably increase soon, since the last patch seems to have really changed something in the braking power, but I can only test that when my steering wheel is repaired again.
 
The ABS in real cars is a safety measure to allow steering while braking hard. It makes the car come to a stop later, more so with older systems that will lift the brake often in an on-off fashion(that stuttering sound). Still even on modern cars, ABS engineers will lean towards the safety side and optimize for steerability rather than short stopping time. It's better to be in control of the car during and after hard braking rather than finding yourself heading towards oncoming traffic or past the point of no return sliding sideways or off the road.

The "ABS" in GT is more about threshold braking, it will brake as hard as the tire supports it to allow to stop the car fastest in a straight line. You will still get understeer when braking hard and steering. So you still need to master trail braking if you want to steer while braking to get around corners faster.
 
I don’t believe my old ‘87 RX7 had ABS, but it was never an issue. I can really only remember one time of actually locking the brakes.
My '91 VW doesn't either, and it's very hard to lock unless you stand on the brakes. It has a vacuum servo but whatever the combination of pedal lever, vacuum servo and master cylinder are, the brakes require a lot of effort (no mechanical faults, passed inspection), guess that's just the way they built them back then. Whereas doing an emergency stop in even a 2010 Skoda feels like its pulling your face off even before ABS kicks in!
 
Hi,
I'm playing in PS4 With Controller. It is really hard to be fast without ABS. It is possible, if you know the Car really Well and the Track is dry. So I use the ABS setting either on normal or weak.

My "Problem" are Cars where no ABS was available or isn't allowed by regulation. There I would prefer that the ABS setting wouldn't bei available at all.

LG K.
 
My "Problem" are Cars where no ABS was available or isn't allowed by regulation. There I would prefer that the ABS setting wouldn't bei available at all.
This is why I started using no ABS, something like an E-Type Jaguar just wouldn't have had it.

The ABS in GT7 seems better than I remember from previous games, even on weak it does very well at threshold braking. I've started using it more now, especially for high speed tracks where there's less room for braking error.

Brake upgrade and brake balance settings are critical for no ABS use.

Edit: typo, I meant GT7 not GTS:crazy:
 
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