Assists - Traction Control, ASM and ABS

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Thanks for your thoughts on this everyone. I’ll carry on as I am (without assists except ABS) but will keep practicing before venturing online as I note that now I’m racing GT3 cars, some of them e.g. the Mazda RX-Vision GT3 Concept) are mighty fast but when they snap on an exit, they snap so fast that they are almost impossible to catch without spinning. This means that I ace most of my races (with AI cars) when using these cars, but when I give it a millimetre too much throttle on an exit, it’s game over!

What I hadn’t considered is using TC in the wet or for fuel saving …how stupid of me! I’d forgotten that you can adjust the TCS mid-race via the MFD. I race in VR with a McLaren GT3 wheel so I guess I’m going to have to practice using the toggle switches blind too. In summary, if most of the drivers in the higher ranked lobbies race with TCS and ASM off then that is where I aspire to be, so that is how I will continue to train. Thanks again 👍

Edit: From the GT7 Manual…

ABS
Adjust the effectiveness of your ABS (anti-lock braking system), which prevents tyres from locking when you brake. At the 'Default' setting, the braking force of all four wheels is controlled, and part of the tyres' grip is allocated to turning force. Using the 'Weak' setting deactivates this restriction, which makes it suitable for more skilled drivers. Selecting 'Off' deactivates the ABS altogether.


…it looks like this is where I got the idea that it’s better to use 'weak' ABS although I still don’t understand exactly how this works i.e. "part of the tyres' grip is allocated to turning force". Maybe it becomes easier to trail-brake in 'weak' mode.
Been spending some time with weak ABS and safe to say, it's a bit of a learning curve but I've been more precise with cornering since it fits my "Rolls Royce Corniche" turning style. Race pace has increased on an average of .5 / .8 on each track but I know there's still time to find cause it means locking up becomes much easier.

TC has always been used just at the start and never used again but I'm learning to make more use of the optimal powerband to get great starts and maintain less traction slip on wet weather.
 
Once I learned that GT3 cars use traction control I said screw it, I'm not struggling with GT7's tricky tire model and a gamepad. Nowadays I race with ABS weak and TCS 1 because frankly that is realistically how a lot of modern race cars operate, and obviously road cars offer those assists as well. I do like the change PD made recently to weaken ABS and TCS. They require more precision but are still helpful and limit total loss of control which can ruin online racing not only for me but for whoever I slide or spin into. I still achieved an A rating on gamepad with the old system, and can silver all these new online time trials, so it doesn't seem to be slowing me down very much.
 
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Once I learned that GT3 cars use traction control I said screw it, I'm not struggling with GT7's tricky tire model and a gamepad. Nowadays I race with ABS weak and TCS 1 because frankly that is realistically how a lot of modern race cars operate, and obviously road cars offer those assists as well. I do like the change PD made recently to weaken ABS and TCS. They require more precision but are still helpful and limit total loss of control which can ruin online racing not only for me but for whoever I slide or spin into. I still achieved an A rating on gamepad with the old system, and can silver all these new online time trials, so it doesn't seem to be slowing me down very much.
In the end, driving aids will always be slower in GT, even if it’s not by much, it still is. There’s the odd car like the karts, that are faster with ABS weak, but that’s about it. At a certain point/skill level, they will start to hold you back, and likely cause you to develop bad habits, that you’d not get away with without the assists.
 
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Anyway, I wrote-up my recent attempts at fitting my rig with isolated haptic feedback and posted it as a blog on my business website. That seems to be quite popular, so I’ll do the same with my elasticated-half-harness idea in case it’s of any use to anyone.
Oops; nearly forgot that I said I'd post this article on this thread...

My seat-harness project is aimed specifically at GT7 VR sim-racers. It provides great immersion, helps prevent your head straying into the 'VR cage of blindness', yet still allows you to move your body forwards when positioning your virtual body at the start of each race. Furthermore, you can sit sans-harness without having to move straps and buckles, it doesn't overheat your nether-region on hot days, and the whole thing can be fitted and removed without marking the seat in any way. Oh yes, and it's cheap and easy to make.


seat_harness.jpg
 
I have just spent the last week or two racing the same car at the same track, in what I believe to be the most challenging GT7 race by far (following the various mid-2023 updates): The Human Comedy Mission 8, Gr.3 at Lake Maggiore. I've been pounding away in a McLaren 650S GT3 over and over again, slowly improving my consistency in order to win the ultimate Gold (in my opinion), using TC1 and ABS weak. Yesterday I finally got the win through sheer consistency of good laptimes with zero mistakes (you can't afford any mistakes whatsoever if you want to win), so I thought this would be an excellent opportunity to test the differences of 'assist'. So this morning I tried the same race in the same car but with TC to zero, and this is what I found (bare in mind that I now know every single nuance of this circuit and car)...

The car was faster through the left-right-left-right complex leading to the banked hairpin - so much so that I was now gaining and passing cars on the hill down to the hairpin. The car was very slightly faster through the banked hairpin. So on this part of the circuit there was a clear improvement.

The car was neither quicker nor slower through the complex of curves after the banked hairpin and leading on to the pit-straight - it was like driving the same car.

The car became a little more tricky to get the power down on the exit of the hairpin after the pit-straight, and at the hairpin at the top of the hill. Previously I never lost the back-end once, but now I had to rescue it a couple of times, and I had to ease getting the power down by fractions of a second more than previously ...enough not to be able to stick with the car directly in front.

Overall, I spent all of my second stint wheel-to-wheel with Rubilar (the ultimate winner), and most of my third stint wheel-to-wheel with Fraga (the ultimate P.2), both of whom I have spent many hours battling with previously. And the advantages of one part of the track were almost perfectly cancelled out by the disadvantages of the other part of the track, leaving me neither quicker or slower across a lap, than with TC set to 1.

But it doesn't end there, because in this particular race, the tyres go off after eight laps, but each stint is ten laps (by my strategy), and three laps are 'warming' laps at the start of each stint. So nine laps of the race have to be taken very carefully, braking slightly early at tight bends. But with TC set to zero, the tyres are less forgiving, as one might expect, which ultimately sent me spinning into a wall close to the end of the race, otherwise I would have been P.2 by just a couple of seconds, I think.

Conclusion: Based on a test in one car at one circuit, TC0 is quicker than TC1 in some circumstances, but no different in others. It requires more careful application of the power out of hairpins, which takes skill to cope with. It increases your chances of trouble on worn tyres, which again takes skill to cope with. So yes, TC0 is quicker, but only in a way that the very best drivers can take advantage of without increasing the risk of spinning wheels and spinning cars. I can win The Human Comedy Mission 8, Gr.3 at Lake Maggiore, but I'm still not good enough to get an overall advantage by racing in TC0.

...so no surprises there then! 🙄

Next Test: ABS weak vs ABS normal.

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EDIT: I've just run the race again with TC:1 and ABS: default. I won by 1 second but had a penalty that cost me 4 seconds, so the victory would have been by 5 seconds without the penalty, which is the exact same time (to the second) that I won the race by yesterday with ABS: weak.

It was very difficult to tell much difference, although I did realise after a while that I could brake slightly later to hit the same apexes. But I'm only talking about two virtual metres at a closing-speed of flat-out mph. Trail breaking was not affected, except that I sometimes seemed to drift slightly deeper for the same muscle-memory of throttle and brake pedal control. Again, it took me a while to understand why, and I put this down to the tyre-wear, which seemed to be slightly higher, possibly due to the different braking mechanism, whatever that is.

One test does not make a definitive study, and my driving style is my driving style, not anyone else's. But as before, this is a very good way to test these things given that I have done this race twice a day for the last two weeks.

Conclusion: at a high speed circuit, in a Gr.3 car, there is almost no difference between ABS weak and ABS default. If I had to side one way or the other, I would say that 'default' allows you to stop slightly quicker, at the expense of extra tyre wear.
 
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