I'd like to win the Suzuki Escudo, but I can't seem to get anything done on dirt. Anyone have any tips for dirt racing, especially Cathedral Rocks I?
Any Dirt Racing Tips?
- Thread starter Tyr Motorsports
- 33 comments
- 4,803 views
try drifting instead of "steering" around corners...also...if you dont care about cheating...you can ride walls but be sure not to let the front of your car hit too hard or else you will get the 5 second penalty...also...you dont get that penalty if the front doesnt touch the wall, no matter how hard the back/side hits
- 737
I found the best way to learn rallying (in fact, almost any skill in GT4) is to practice the licence tests ad nauseum. Do them until you get at least silvers in all of them, paying particular attention to racing lines and braking points, then go back to try the race.
Before posting, though, it's almost always better to do a search on the forums. The following thread was posted about two months ago, and should give you more than enough:
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=110229
Before posting, though, it's almost always better to do a search on the forums. The following thread was posted about two months ago, and should give you more than enough:
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=110229
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- 420
- n/a
- n/a
Okay.
1) Theres no point in steering, the back end steps out, so drift around the corners by keeping the nose of the car pointed towards the apex of the corner, be sure to countersteer so you dont end up facing backwards.
2) go to the gt4 guides section on this website to find out which races you need to do to win a rally car.
3) Dont worry, the Escudo isnt that good, and you will inevitably sell it after a few scary and terrible laps around your favourite track. Always happens.
4) Because theres no grip you need to turn BEFORE the corner, and immediately countersteer on faster corners, and remember to brake, or you'll just slam into the barriers, giving you the 5 second penalty.
1) Theres no point in steering, the back end steps out, so drift around the corners by keeping the nose of the car pointed towards the apex of the corner, be sure to countersteer so you dont end up facing backwards.
2) go to the gt4 guides section on this website to find out which races you need to do to win a rally car.
3) Dont worry, the Escudo isnt that good, and you will inevitably sell it after a few scary and terrible laps around your favourite track. Always happens.
4) Because theres no grip you need to turn BEFORE the corner, and immediately countersteer on faster corners, and remember to brake, or you'll just slam into the barriers, giving you the 5 second penalty.
- 10,557
- Columbia, MD.
- Parnelli_Bones
It also depends which car you're using, as I've demonstrated with the Evo versus STi thread. The STi (early ones anyway) has a habit of too much oversteer whereas the Evo can be slid in without a care. That's the main thing: learn how to slide rather than just steer, and choose a car that feels somewhat easy to drive. It's lots of fun once you get the hang of it.
I'm not talking about drifting tho...that takes some mastery. Instead, focus on just sliding into corners, and hitting the gas at the right moment. On snow tracks, it's not so good to slide as much...here, it's better to keep as much traction as possible, which means keeping all 4 wheels pointed in the direction (more or less) you're trying to go. 💡
If you're just trying to do rally races to win a car (any car) you might wind up getting frustrated because you're in too much of a hurry to win, without really getting into the spirit of the race, and getting to KNOW the courses and how to drive them. Look at the link PF posted. This aint gonna happen overnight for you if you're in any sort of a hurry...
I'm not talking about drifting tho...that takes some mastery. Instead, focus on just sliding into corners, and hitting the gas at the right moment. On snow tracks, it's not so good to slide as much...here, it's better to keep as much traction as possible, which means keeping all 4 wheels pointed in the direction (more or less) you're trying to go. 💡
If you're just trying to do rally races to win a car (any car) you might wind up getting frustrated because you're in too much of a hurry to win, without really getting into the spirit of the race, and getting to KNOW the courses and how to drive them. Look at the link PF posted. This aint gonna happen overnight for you if you're in any sort of a hurry...
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- 33,155
- Hammerhead Garage
- Practice dirt racing one something nice and wide, like Swiss Alps.
- Get something low-powered and learn Cathedral Rocks before racing on it for real. Use progressively faster cars until you master it.
- Be careful of the tarmac loop; grip goes out the window.
- Get something low-powered and learn Cathedral Rocks before racing on it for real. Use progressively faster cars until you master it.
- Be careful of the tarmac loop; grip goes out the window.
- 2,741
- Michigan
- mcluvin93hatch
Along with the steering advice already provided, I'd like to add a little bit more that pertains to a different area
Throttle Control, in some cases, can yield more control than steering in Rally, for example, If your flooring it at the wrong points, you'll find yourself sliding around like crazy and wasting time, but if you drop throttle use from 100 % to say 80% around corner exit's, you spin the tires less and in turn gain more traction, which allows you to control the car's direction easier, slide less, and take shorter lines
And if you adjust to that, you can learn to really control the car in rally, one technique I used for a while when rallying was to go 100% throttle on the straights, and as I approached the corner, I progressively lowered the percentage, 95....80...70..start a little left-foot braking etc, go through the corner in a slight drift with as much momentum as possible, and do the reverse at the exit, 78....85...94....100
In the real world though this technique is slower than others, but due to GT4's lack of realistic gravel,dirt,snow traction, it provides the best compromise, but if GT4 had better all around traction....
4WD power-slide at full throttle around hairpins ftw 👍
Throttle Control, in some cases, can yield more control than steering in Rally, for example, If your flooring it at the wrong points, you'll find yourself sliding around like crazy and wasting time, but if you drop throttle use from 100 % to say 80% around corner exit's, you spin the tires less and in turn gain more traction, which allows you to control the car's direction easier, slide less, and take shorter lines
And if you adjust to that, you can learn to really control the car in rally, one technique I used for a while when rallying was to go 100% throttle on the straights, and as I approached the corner, I progressively lowered the percentage, 95....80...70..start a little left-foot braking etc, go through the corner in a slight drift with as much momentum as possible, and do the reverse at the exit, 78....85...94....100
In the real world though this technique is slower than others, but due to GT4's lack of realistic gravel,dirt,snow traction, it provides the best compromise, but if GT4 had better all around traction....
4WD power-slide at full throttle around hairpins ftw 👍
- 420
- n/a
- n/a
yeah, i started doing dirt racing again last night in a spec-c. These guys are right, i have to contradict my previous comment, drifting is bad, because theres absolutely NO traction whatsoever, you just slide into the barriers. Start off slow, dont jump in a rally car just yet. I suggest the quattro.
- 10,557
- Columbia, MD.
- Parnelli_Bones
Mmm hmm. Yeah, drifting off-road is usually counter-productive unless you're playing GT2 
But in GT4, it's better to carefully slide in to corners, calculating in your head just how long the slide is gonna last and when you can start getting straight & hitting gas again.
For cars that get too squirrely or oversteery, it's better not to slide as much...in these cars, it's best to keep all 4 wheels pointed in the general direction you want to go so you have traction as much as possible.
But in GT4, it's better to carefully slide in to corners, calculating in your head just how long the slide is gonna last and when you can start getting straight & hitting gas again. For cars that get too squirrely or oversteery, it's better not to slide as much...in these cars, it's best to keep all 4 wheels pointed in the general direction you want to go so you have traction as much as possible.
- 41
Do it with a 505 HP (add a Turbo 4), Subaru Impreza Rally (Prototype '01 is the best).
You will destroy everything.
You will destroy everything.
mafia_boy
(Banned)
- 5,570
- GTP_Mafiaboy
That's a waste, a Stage 4 turbo on a WRC?? 
I'd suggest similar to Fluke was saying with the car choice. I've COMPLETED EVERY RACE in special conditions using only 1 car, a STOCK SPEC-C (252Kw w/oil change)w/NOS. THAT'S IT!!
The hardest car you face is the Subie WRC '03, usually on the reverse tracks on George Paris V (the hardest track, as you're on S2's vs R3's with the WRC!!), Swiss Alps and Cathedral Rocks.
The Spec-C has it's own VCD fitted so you can adjust the settings to a more rear biased setup for more of an FR feel. On top of that, take the TCS and ASM off to give you an idea of where the limits are when going sideways around the corners.
If you need the performance boost for some overkill, just a racing exhaust, chip and intercooler will do, as the exhaust just turns the Spec-C into a monster, especially with the NOS. Or just build a Spec-C w/ stage 5 turbo (522hp + oodles of torque), all the goodies and fit R5's for Tarmac events.
Also, listen to what Kurei has said. Keeping the foot flat doesn't help the handling, you need to use throttle control. Whether it's like him and dropping it to 80% or like me by taking the throttle off and mashing it on and off to try and get it to grip quickly. The best course to learn this is Swiss Alps by far, and Chamonix gives you a good lesson too.
I'd suggest similar to Fluke was saying with the car choice. I've COMPLETED EVERY RACE in special conditions using only 1 car, a STOCK SPEC-C (252Kw w/oil change)w/NOS. THAT'S IT!!
The hardest car you face is the Subie WRC '03, usually on the reverse tracks on George Paris V (the hardest track, as you're on S2's vs R3's with the WRC!!), Swiss Alps and Cathedral Rocks.The Spec-C has it's own VCD fitted so you can adjust the settings to a more rear biased setup for more of an FR feel. On top of that, take the TCS and ASM off to give you an idea of where the limits are when going sideways around the corners.
If you need the performance boost for some overkill, just a racing exhaust, chip and intercooler will do, as the exhaust just turns the Spec-C into a monster, especially with the NOS. Or just build a Spec-C w/ stage 5 turbo (522hp + oodles of torque), all the goodies and fit R5's for Tarmac events.
Also, listen to what Kurei has said. Keeping the foot flat doesn't help the handling, you need to use throttle control. Whether it's like him and dropping it to 80% or like me by taking the throttle off and mashing it on and off to try and get it to grip quickly. The best course to learn this is Swiss Alps by far, and Chamonix gives you a good lesson too.
- 642
Cornering help, buddy 👍
1. Brake to the speed at which to take the corner - it's probably higher than if you took the same kind of corner on tarmac. You must have enough speed to keep the car going sideways throughout the corner - you don't want to be sliding sideways slowly, then grinding to a halt.
2. Flick the wheel in... don't do it too fast, for now - leave the big-ass 90 degree slides to the pros, and those with 4WD cars!
3. Countersteer as soon as the back steps out, and hold it there. If you're running out of angle, countersteer less. If you're oversteering too much, steer into the skid more. Said like this, it sounds like a long, slow slide, but really you should be able to do this in the space of 3-4 seconds.
4. MODULATE THE THROTTLE! I can't stress this enough. One of the biggest problems I had when I first did a dirt track was sliding outwards and hitting the outer wall. If you're sliding too far out, let off the throttle to regain traction, and modulate it. This, like the countersteer control, should be done in the 4-5 seconds you get round the corner in.
Think of it this way - imagine a model car, connected to a point via a rubber band, connected under the front bumper. If you push the car, the nose will point towards where the rubber band is held to the surface - thus keeping it in a sideways slide, and dead on the corner. In the full-size virtual car, think of throttle control as this rubber band. Don't think of merely sliding the car - just think of angling the car so that moderated throttle will keep it stuck into the corner, as the wheels will keep driving forwards, no matter what.
5. Over-countersteer to get the car straight, and nail the loud pedal 👍
It'sbest to start in a low power 4WD car, or possibly FF. Don't take it too fast, go at your own pace. Remember to modulate the throttle - and don't give up!
Good luck 👍
1. Brake to the speed at which to take the corner - it's probably higher than if you took the same kind of corner on tarmac. You must have enough speed to keep the car going sideways throughout the corner - you don't want to be sliding sideways slowly, then grinding to a halt.
2. Flick the wheel in... don't do it too fast, for now - leave the big-ass 90 degree slides to the pros, and those with 4WD cars!
3. Countersteer as soon as the back steps out, and hold it there. If you're running out of angle, countersteer less. If you're oversteering too much, steer into the skid more. Said like this, it sounds like a long, slow slide, but really you should be able to do this in the space of 3-4 seconds.
4. MODULATE THE THROTTLE! I can't stress this enough. One of the biggest problems I had when I first did a dirt track was sliding outwards and hitting the outer wall. If you're sliding too far out, let off the throttle to regain traction, and modulate it. This, like the countersteer control, should be done in the 4-5 seconds you get round the corner in.
Think of it this way - imagine a model car, connected to a point via a rubber band, connected under the front bumper. If you push the car, the nose will point towards where the rubber band is held to the surface - thus keeping it in a sideways slide, and dead on the corner. In the full-size virtual car, think of throttle control as this rubber band. Don't think of merely sliding the car - just think of angling the car so that moderated throttle will keep it stuck into the corner, as the wheels will keep driving forwards, no matter what.
5. Over-countersteer to get the car straight, and nail the loud pedal 👍
It'sbest to start in a low power 4WD car, or possibly FF. Don't take it too fast, go at your own pace. Remember to modulate the throttle - and don't give up!
Good luck 👍
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- 10,557
- Columbia, MD.
- Parnelli_Bones
- 10,557
- Columbia, MD.
- Parnelli_Bones
Only on Tarmac Special Conditions. It's hard to gauge though as you're trying to match the AI's pace on weaker tyres to get a good guess, but it is R spec tyres considering it's a WRCar.
Yah well I noticed actual racing cars like the Mitsubishi Starion rally car are way faster then production models in the Normal special events.
I thought it might be tires. I noticed I had to add lots of extra power to keep up with some of these guys.
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- 6,006
- Finland
Come to think of it, I have a RUF BTR that goes around Cathedral Rocks faster than a WRC in my hands. 450 bhp, quite rudimentary suspension settings, no wing. Video available if nobody believes me. With the TVR you'll get pretty far. 👍I'm currently trying to see how much of the Special Conditions Hall I can win in a TVR Tuscan ... so you can imagine that throttle control is of great importance!
mafia_boy
(Banned)
- 5,570
- GTP_Mafiaboy
sukerin - Now THAT'S a challenge. Any nitrous included or no??
Greycap - It's very believable that you did that. I had Camaro which cost me less than 42,000cr to build (including car cost AND dirt tyres!!) beat a WRC Lancer '03 & WRC Impreza '03 around Swiss Alps (on Hard of course!!). But that's only one track, I'm thinking of doing the same as sukerin and doing it all again in a RWD car. 
Parnelli - The reason the Starion is so much faster is because it's a Group B car, so it's unrestricted compared to the current WRC batch of cars and has so much more power. It's the same with George Paris V Hard when you face the Renault 5 Maxi, it just leaves you in a straight line unless you have 300Kw+ yourself, which is where Mr.NOS came into play when I had the stock Spec-C.
Any nitrous included or no?? Greycap - It's very believable that you did that. I had Camaro which cost me less than 42,000cr to build (including car cost AND dirt tyres!!) beat a WRC Lancer '03 & WRC Impreza '03 around Swiss Alps (on Hard of course!!).
But that's only one track, I'm thinking of doing the same as sukerin and doing it all again in a RWD car. Parnelli - The reason the Starion is so much faster is because it's a Group B car, so it's unrestricted compared to the current WRC batch of cars and has so much more power. It's the same with George Paris V Hard when you face the Renault 5 Maxi, it just leaves you in a straight line unless you have 300Kw+ yourself, which is where Mr.NOS came into play when I had the stock Spec-C.
- 2,063
. No Nitrous for me, sir 
! That's a dirty word to this here 100,000 A-Spec warrior . My present problem is the Cathedral Rocks I Reverse HARD Level. I keep getting tapped by the AI when I try to overtake and it's driving me crazy - it's as if they know the 5-Second rule only affects me and not them ROFL.
- 5,398
- Buenos Aires
To keep this post on topic, let me tell you that doing the licences is the way to go.
I know you may feel that this doesn't help you at all, but believe me, it's the best way to do it. Also, a very important thing to keep in mind when rallying is to know the boundaries of the track. Those two are one of the best advices you can get. And, of course, practice. You ain't going to be using the same cars in the races than in the licences, I guess.
One important question:
-Which races have cars using Racing Tires? Because in Costa Di Amalfi Hard (Normal), I realized that my stock BMW M3 CSL could easily keep up with the Mitsubishi Lancer Super Rally Car, but in (Reverse) a Renault Maxi Turbo 5 easily swept the ground with me, just as a Subaru Impreza did in the same race a day before. I tested my theory by going to Arcade mode: I used the Maxi Turbo 5 with Super-Hard Tires, and I could easily score the same time as the AI, which with S2 tires (the same ones my BMW uses) could not reach (I know it is obvious, I just wanted to point that out).
I know you may feel that this doesn't help you at all, but believe me, it's the best way to do it. Also, a very important thing to keep in mind when rallying is to know the boundaries of the track. Those two are one of the best advices you can get. And, of course, practice. You ain't going to be using the same cars in the races than in the licences, I guess.
One important question:
-Which races have cars using Racing Tires? Because in Costa Di Amalfi Hard (Normal), I realized that my stock BMW M3 CSL could easily keep up with the Mitsubishi Lancer Super Rally Car, but in (Reverse) a Renault Maxi Turbo 5 easily swept the ground with me, just as a Subaru Impreza did in the same race a day before. I tested my theory by going to Arcade mode: I used the Maxi Turbo 5 with Super-Hard Tires, and I could easily score the same time as the AI, which with S2 tires (the same ones my BMW uses) could not reach (I know it is obvious, I just wanted to point that out).
- 5,481
- Seattle, WA
- RykonZero
I used a Lotus Elise for most of them, even on dirt. It's actually a great rally car, it occasionally acts just like a AWD, and it will pull you out of most hairy situations. Not to mention, it's also great on road.
- 10,557
- Columbia, MD.
- Parnelli_Bones
Parnelli - The reason the Starion is so much faster is because it's a Group B car, so it's unrestricted compared to the current WRC batch of cars and has so much more power. It's the same with George Paris V Hard when you face the Renault 5 Maxi, it just leaves you in a straight line unless you have 300Kw+ yourself, which is where Mr.NOS came into play when I had the stock Spec-C.
Yea that makes sense. The Starion being an actual Group B vehicle, that is...it is a mid-80s vehicle. Guess I'll have to watch out for that Maxi 5, too.
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