AP Electrix Load Cell Mod for the Logitech G27 Pedals

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Excellent product, it takes to me approx 1,5 month from order to installation.
Comparing to Fanatec's CSR Elite pedals its price/quality ratio of APElectrix mod is perfect.
Functionality of CSRe brake gets 10 points from me and APElectix 10-
But after price what you have to pay CSRe or APElectrix values changes: CSRe=8,5 and APElectrix=10+

One small modding to APElectix brake mod and it's perfect for me:
img0773di.jpg

img0778zv.jpg


Added two different size springs to get perfect tension on pedal(movement start was too soft for me), and those two paper pieces to avoid that gum-piece grabbing and giving small *smack* when releasing pedal.

Above wire installation is perfect for GT5/PS3 and rFactor/PC(or any other PC game) when installing pedals thru G27 and connectin only one wire from G27 to PS3 or PC.
 
I wish you could calibrate the pedal better in GT5. For longer stints or after a 'big moment' my pedal sets itself to the max 100% I pressed it. This means I can end up chasing the 100% pedal point as it requires more and more pressure. Not a major issue but a downside of console gaming vs PC where you can easily calibrate the pedal. Still very pleased with it.
 
@Brando, that minus point on APElectrix mod is coming from that particular reason what you described.
But switching G27 off and removing USB cord from PS3 and putting back will let you re-calibrate "maximum" again correctly so not a big deal.
I have used mod at least 300 hours and re-calibrated during sessions 3 or 4 times.
 
That's a great tip thanks OdeFinn. I think I am nearing the point where I need to go PC racing as well. As much as I love GT5 I'm craving more race cars and better physics.
 
Excellent product, it takes to me approx 1,5 month from order to installation.
Comparing to Fanatec's CSR Elite pedals its price/quality ratio of APElectrix mod is perfect.
Functionality of CSRe brake gets 10 points from me and APElectix 10-
But after price what you have to pay CSRe or APElectrix values changes: CSRe=8,5 and APElectrix=10+

One small modding to APElectix brake mod and it's perfect for me:
img0773di.jpg

img0778zv.jpg


Added two different size springs to get perfect tension on pedal(movement start was too soft for me), and those two paper pieces to avoid that gum-piece grabbing and giving small *smack* when releasing pedal.

Above wire installation is perfect for GT5/PS3 and rFactor/PC(or any other PC game) when installing pedals thru G27 and connectin only one wire from G27 to PS3 or PC.

Thanks a heap for this post Mate, Both my buddy and I have had our loadcells since he started selling them and while it was perfect for PC games we could never get it to work with GT5.

Much appreciated 👍 (might even give that spring mod a shot, soon)

For anyone else thinking of getting one of these AP Electrix Load Cells I highly recommend it. :)
 
got mine two days ago. still having problems with the sensitivity on GT5 PS3.

as it is right now, def not useable. i have no wait to connnect it to a PC and try to calibrate, not sure that would be effective using in ps3 anyway.

yes, i have pressed the thing very hard to calibrate in gt5 =)

bit disappointed atm but sill anxious to see it working as it was intended.

any suggestions?
 
Connecting to a pc will have no effect when it's used with the ps3 i'm afraid. What exactly is the problem you are having?
 
yea i thought so. pretty much the thing is just very sensitive.
1-3mm of travel and the brake is 100%.

the odd thing is that after pressing the brake a couple times it seems to have better response. i can effectively use the travel in the pedal. but, as soon as i am trying to get on the brakes for the next corner i exp the same over sensitive issue.

andy has been in email contact with me, trying to help me figure this out. i just wanted to see if anyone had had a similar problem/fix.

thanks.
 
Don't calibrate it by pressing hard, calibrate it pressing that force what you want to be 100% braking force on game, if you press hard on calibrating you'll need press really hard on gaming also..

It is really sensitive, and travel is not long 'coz it's pressure force what counts, not distance.

ABC to playing: when you connect your G25/G27 to PS3 and have started GT5, don't touch on brake or any other pedal until you are on track, then fully pressing gas and clutch and gently press brake, as gently what you expect to do when you are braking "hard" on game.
After this it will work fine.
If you sometime jump on brake it still calibrates new maximum value from that jump, and brake sensitivity changes to that new value. Only way to get new calibration during that driving session is pulling G25/G27 USB cord out from PS3 and power cord of wheel also from wall/PSU, then reconnect power and USB and do that calibration again.
 
Don't calibrate it by pressing hard, calibrate it pressing that force what you want to be 100% braking force on game, if you press hard on calibrating you'll need press really hard on gaming also..

It is really sensitive, and travel is not long 'coz it's pressure force what counts, not distance.

ABC to playing: when you connect your G25/G27 to PS3 and have started GT5, don't touch on brake or any other pedal until you are on track, then fully pressing gas and clutch and gently press brake, as gently what you expect to do when you are braking "hard" on game.
After this it will work fine.
If you sometime jump on brake it still calibrates new maximum value from that jump, and brake sensitivity changes to that new value. Only way to get new calibration during that driving session is pulling G25/G27 USB cord out from PS3 and power cord of wheel also from wall/PSU, then reconnect power and USB and do that calibration again.

This is how you do it folks, quoted for truth. 👍
 
Don't calibrate it by pressing hard, calibrate it pressing that force what you want to be 100% braking force on game, if you press hard on calibrating you'll need press really hard on gaming also..

It is really sensitive, and travel is not long 'coz it's pressure force what counts, not distance.

ABC to playing: when you connect your G25/G27 to PS3 and have started GT5, don't touch on brake or any other pedal until you are on track, then fully pressing gas and clutch and gently press brake, as gently what you expect to do when you are braking "hard" on game.
After this it will work fine.
If you sometime jump on brake it still calibrates new maximum value from that jump, and brake sensitivity changes to that new value. Only way to get new calibration during that driving session is pulling G25/G27 USB cord out from PS3 and power cord of wheel also from wall/PSU, then reconnect power and USB and do that calibration again.
This:tup: and you need 3-4 weeks on learning curve to use it correctly!
 
yea i agree that is def the way to do it, and that is the way i generally start my game up each time. (save those times when you rush into an online lobby and forget to cal the pedals haha)

i understand the diff between the position based and load based application of the two sensors. however, assuming there was no issue with my load cell i found it unable to be used. i could only get three values basically. 0%, 25%, 100%... yesterday i wired the pot back in and left the loadcell acting as the mechanical spring for the pedal. that actually was working to the point i could go back and race. its a hybrid, bahaha.

after speaking with Andy he thinks it may have been damaged during shipping, which is something probable. shipping here in this part of asia is not 'the best'. going to poke around a bit and see what happens.

thanks for the tips and responses fellas.

+1
 
Sorry to hear of your issues, I found the same as the others. Has anyone else used pedal extenders to extend the travel yet?? I'm getting more and more tempted to get some made up.
 
Hi guys!

I tried for several days to contact the guy who builds the AP Eletrix brake mod, with no sucess. I guess he's not selling it anymore. Does anyone here knows anything about it?

Thanks.
 
yeah it takes a while. i suppose he does this as a hobby and he has quite a bit of orders to fill.

once you receive word back from him he is very fast with his responses and communication.

once i received my load cell and was talking to him about some issues i was having, i never had to wait more than a day for an email response.

i had pretty much forgot about the thing and thought he did not sell them any more too, it was close to 5 months before i heard anything.

be patient and be ready to send payment once he responds to your order.
 
Just read his website, as he explain's you will get an email when your turn comes up.
It is a bit of a long wait, I think I waited about 6 months for mine.
But you won't be sorry.

Cheers
BAD
 
that is true^ in all fairness, in this high paced internet tech society we are used to, waiting 6 months for a response to an order is like stone-age type **** haha.

pedal really is great though. makes running no abs a dream. i run no driving aids for ever, not i can finally take the abs off and be consistent.

for me, running no abs increases the realism, just like when you get a driving wheel and the games become so much for real, driving with the load cell no abs and all that really increases the fun level for me.
 
As the others have said it's a bit of an odd system.
You place your interest get put in the cue, you won't hear anything from him until its ready to ship.

Plus side is when its ready, he gets it out to you immediately after payment mine turned up very quickly.

I hope you can be patient enough to join the club, it is miles ahead of the spring mods. Which in comparison seem vastly overpriced.
 
you said it.. the nixim brake spring mod is like 60USD right? the load cell was 70USD iirc.

Last time I looked Nixim was about $50, from what I can remember the Loadcell cost me under $90 inc delivery to Australia, it might have been a little lower. :) I was very happy with the price compared to the alternatives.
 
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