Bhp/kw glitch?

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Already answered that for you - the power displayed in the showroom isn't right and this has almost always been done in Gran Turismo games in the past, particularly with LMP and Group C racers.
Okay, I just checked v1.01 for you.

Sauber Mercedes C9 '89
Showroom power - 710hp (529.7kW)
Garage overview power - 927hp (691.5kW)
Car overview power - 927hp (691.5kW)
Settings screen power - 927hp (691.5kW)

So I'll refer you to my earlier answer:
Famine
it could easily just be GT being GT with the showroom vs. actual power figure. I haven't checked the Sauber C9 yet, but I can do later.
691kw/927hp is what it should be.
 
I started a thread about this some time ago and posted the actual kW numbers compared to the ones in the show rooms for a few LMP's i tested.

Some are really way of (C60 Hybr. and V12LMR), only one with no difference was some R10(?) TDI

No idea why they do that, is a bit misleading when you want to buy a car or try to figure out why that damn C60 is so strong in the "Like the Wind" series.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/why-are-power-figures-for-most-lmp-cars-total-wrong.294683/
 
Maybe the break in doesn't happen when you change the oil after buying them? Just saying. I always change the oil and so far I haven't seen a break-in HP increase.

I never change the oil and haven't noticed any break-in. I'd have to double-check to be sure, but, recently, I de-tuned the C9 to a specific PP for a championship and didn't notice it climb after races.
 
Careful with the HP/BHP differences!! In some versions of the game (language) like spanish, its in CV/HP whereas the english version is BHP i think, which equals a tiny % less in numbers.
 
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No idea why they do that, is a bit misleading when you want to buy a car or try to figure out why that damn C60 is so strong in the "Like the Wind" series.
I have a little theory about it from reading the description of the Audi R8 LMS Ultra. It mentions that the car produces 591 hp, but in real-life GT racing series it has less power due to a power restrictor and it even mentions two maximum real-life values...something like 500-550 hp or so.

I think it's the same with the LMP cars; the cars as bought deliver a power output that may resemble their power output without an air restrictor, while in the showroom a power figure is shown closer to the value of what the car actually produced with the air restrictor active. This way we get a choice of playing with or without the restrictor. Intentional or not, I'm treating it like that anyway. :P
 
I never change the oil and haven't noticed any break-in. I'd have to double-check to be sure, but, recently, I de-tuned the C9 to a specific PP for a championship and didn't notice it climb after races.

I have paid attention to a few cars now and there is no break in. The cars do not go faster either. Also note that when the pit service indicates that your rigidity has started to deteriorate it does not affect your cars performance or at least not within the first 600 miles though you may need an oil change by then even though the pit service may not indicate as much.

I took a Nascar out ran 633 miles up on it. I then changed the oil in it, bought a new one just like it, changed the oil, applied the same tune and took them to the track. Both had the same HP, both turned the same lap times
 
I have a little theory about it from reading the description of the Audi R8 LMS Ultra. It mentions that the car produces 591 hp, but in real-life GT racing series it has less power due to a power restrictor and it even mentions two maximum real-life values...something like 500-550 hp or so.

I think it's the same with the LMP cars; the cars as bought deliver a power output that may resemble their power output without an air restrictor, while in the showroom a power figure is shown closer to the value of what the car actually produced with the air restrictor active. This way we get a choice of playing with or without the restrictor. Intentional or not, I'm treating it like that anyway. :P
Sounds like a good explanation.

Problem in GT6 is you cant see anywhere how much power (or weight) you opponents use in the race.
Makes it a bit difficult to adjust, but my guess is they use always max. power. (like they always use best tires allowed it seems)
 
I have paid attention to a few cars now and there is no break in. The cars do not go faster either. Also note that when the pit service indicates that your rigidity has started to deteriorate it does not affect your cars performance or at least not within the first 600 miles though you may need an oil change by then even though the pit service may not indicate as much.

I took a Nascar out ran 633 miles up on it. I then changed the oil in it, bought a new one just like it, changed the oil, applied the same tune and took them to the track. Both had the same HP, both turned the same lap times
There is a thread about this.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/body-rigidity-deteriorates-way-too-fast.292723/#post-9058327

Power starts to drop after a few hundred miles but there is no "oil warning" in the service area.
If you replace it you have more power than the car had in the first place.

The deteriorating body rigidity seems only to effect the Force Feedback you get in the wheel a bit but not the actual performance of the car (handling/corner speed).
Maybe depends on the car how bad it gets.

Some people claim it has dramatic effects and makes cars undriveable but you never get much useful info from them.
 
There is a thread about this.

Power starts to drop after a few hundred miles but there is no "oil warning" in the service area.
If you replace it you have more power than the car had in the first place.
Oil change increases power in Gt. If you change the oil when the car is new and then change it again when the power has started to drop off the power will go back to what it was when new with fresh oil. If you had not changed the oil then it will be higher.

The deteriorating body rigidity seems only to effect the Force Feedback you get in the wheel a bit but not the actual performance of the car (handling/corner speed).
Maybe depends on the car how bad it gets.

Some people claim it has dramatic effects and makes cars undriveable but you never get much useful info from them.
I have several cars showing this yellow indicator now and as I said as a test I bought a new one, same tune and compared, no difference could be detected and lap times were the same in both cars,

I also use a Fanatec Elite wheel with quite a lot of feedback so I would notice if there was much difference there. as far as I can tell the car with 600+ miles drives the same as the one with 0 miles once the oil is changed in both cars. The handling has not changed in any noticeable way. I have not ran them in races where tire wear was on to see if the tires may wear quicker or unevenly but I do not see any reason as of yet to bother restoring any of them and given that I have driven over 9000 miles already I have several cars with over 350 miles on them
 
Oil change increases power in Gt. If you change the oil when the car is new and then change it again when the power has started to drop off the power will go back to what it was when new with fresh oil. If you had not changed the oil then it will be higher.


I have several cars showing this yellow indicator now and as I said as a test I bought a new one, same tune and compared, no difference could be detected and lap times were the same in both cars,

I also use a Fanatec Elite wheel with quite a lot of feedback so I would notice if there was much difference there. as far as I can tell the car with 600+ miles drives the same as the one with 0 miles once the oil is changed in both cars. The handling has not changed in any noticeable way. I have not ran them in races where tire wear was on to see if the tires may wear quicker or unevenly but I do not see any reason as of yet to bother restoring any of them and given that I have driven over 9000 miles already I have several cars with over 350 miles on them
You don't have to tell ME, i came to the same result ;)

I still think it is just a bug that sets the wrong light/warning at 350miles, but the "reset" (buy oilchange/rig. Restore) is not mixed up so you have to do the expensive repair (with no or little actual effect) to get rid of the warning.

But if you look at the thread i linked you will find a few people with different experiences.
 
Careful with the HP/BHP differences!! In some versions of the game (language) like spanish, its in CV/HP whereas the english version is BHP i think, which equals a tiny % less in numbers.
By the factor 1.014, but that doesn't have anything to do with this anyway.
 
This has been going on since GT4 (I don't remember in GT3 or previous).HP figures tend to fluctuate. In the dealership they show something, when you buy it it shows a different thing, when it breaks in, or the engine loses condition it also changes.
 
Not the only glitch. Unit conversions in general are a mess in GT. For example, AM one-77 is apparently 1,999 INCHES wide etc..
 
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