Blitz ER D1 SPEC '04

  • Thread starter Bt182
  • 20 comments
  • 7,459 views
36
Bt182
With this car being designed for drift, is there any changes I should make to it's settings or should they be fine how they are set.

Also it lacks a stage 3 engine and any turbo

Suspension
Ride height: 0/0
Spring rate: 9.0/10.0
Dampers (c): 7/7
Dampers (e): 7/7
Anti-roll bars: 6/6

Camber angle: 1.0/0.5
Toe angle: 0.00/0.20

LSD
Initial torque: 7
Acceleration sensitivity: 30
Braking sensitivity: 15
 
I bought one yesterday and love it. I have a stage 3 turbo on it and my settings are, I lowered it -25/-25 all the spring and damping are the same. Also I toed it out in the rear -20
 
I bought one yesterday and love it. I have a stage 3 turbo on it and my settings are, I lowered it -25/-25 all the spring and damping are the same. Also I toed it out in the rear -20

Your car must surely bottom out over any type of bump ?
Thats very soft to have the wheels in the wheel arches.

Shouldnt be able to do that really.

anyway....

If the car is D1 spec and ready tuned. Leave the power unless you need it. high power makes drifting harder.

around 300 - 400 bhp is the best for me.
comfort tires are a must.

up the camber by 0.5 (my usual amount to run)
Also up the LSD sensitivity on both settings to full (causes diff lock)

If you do it let me know how it goes :)


edit: softening the front may also help control the car "mid drift" better.
Anti roll bar general rules( i think)


high settings = slippy
lower settings = grippy

high front low back = understeering pig
low front high back = oversteering drifter

get the balance right and you should have a controllable drifter on your hands.

Similar rules apply to suspension springs settings


correct me if im wrong.
 
Not really it does fine. I run 5.0* of camber in the front for more tire contact when I'm at full lock. Grip is a keyfactor in drifting. But people have there own point of views and that's fine with me.
 
Camber and Anti roll bar are incredibly linked.

Anti roll bar is BASICALLY how much your car leans over
Camber is how much tilt your tires have

low anti roll bar and high camber = a lot of tire on the road when in a major turn.

high anti roll bar and high camber (5-ish) means your camber is possibly waisted and all it is doing it wearing down your tires and loosing grip... Your car never tilts enough to put the tire fully on the road at any point in time.

This is my experience in racing sims anyway GT5 may be different slightly...

Like you said people have their own setups and thats fine :)

I'm not saying im right. This is just my view on it all based on my time using GTR-Evolution and LFS

Also I now remember running 2.5 front camber on my RX7. That worked well.
 
You have A point there at least you are making a point and not acking like an e thug with a ego. You know what I mean
 
Thanks guys.
raised the LSD sensitivity, Increased cambers, softened front springs and lowered the height of the front. And it is seeming to become easier to control in wide/long drifts.

Just gotta try out some various anti-roll bar settings see if others work better for me.
 
Thanks guys, some good comments. I'm slowly getting the hang of this drfting. Got my first 7k+ single drift on the autumn ring last night. Felt really good.
 
I always thought that the Blitz Skyline was already prepped. but Nomuken's style is different from yours.
 
Most people will need to do a LOT of setup work on the ER34's as they are setup the same way in the game as they are in real life, huge traction and they go straight as soon as you're off the gas, just the way Nomuken likes it. Most people HATE it, I've just got the '04one and I'm going to have a play with setup later, but I haven't foudn a car yet that I can't make drift well with a bit of tuning and geometry alterations.
 
Your car must surely bottom out over any type of bump ?
Thats very soft to have the wheels in the wheel arches.

Shouldnt be able to do that really.

anyway....

If the car is D1 spec and ready tuned. Leave the power unless you need it. high power makes drifting harder.

around 300 - 400 bhp is the best for me.
comfort tires are a must.

up the camber by 0.5 (my usual amount to run)
Also up the LSD sensitivity on both settings to full (causes diff lock)

If you do it let me know how it goes :)


edit: softening the front may also help control the car "mid drift" better.
Anti roll bar general rules( i think)


high settings = slippy
lower settings = grippy

high front low back = understeering pig
low front high back = oversteering drifter

get the balance right and you should have a controllable drifter on your hands.

Similar rules apply to suspension springs settings


correct me if im wrong.

Very nicely put listen to this guy ^ :)
 
For what is worth....

I don't know if the Blitz car is setup "exactly" the same way it is in real life... why? because I picked up the HKS Genki S15 Silvia today and the first thing I did was test it to see how it ran with its stock settings, without looking at the settings so they wouldn't predispose me to think one way or the other.... my initial reaction was that the car was a little tough to get the car to initiate, but once in the drift, the car is extremely stable and easy to control.... in fact I clicked off my best run on autumn ring mini with it.

So here's where it gets interesting... I copied down all of the relevant settings in hopes that I might be able to apply them to my drift cars and I'm noticing that it has the exact same settings as the Blitz car... so unless Nomoken and Nob Taniguchi run the exact same setup in real life.. then these cars aren't modeled exactly after their real life counterparts, but instead, they run some generic drift set up that PD has set up. Incidentally, I still think its a pretty good set up... and I want to set my cars up with it to see how they react.

I've checked my Apex book and it appears there are several more Drift cars in the game.

2004 Blitz ER34 D1
2007 Blitz ER34 D1
2004 HKS Genki Hyper Silvia S15
2003 BP Falken RX-7

Additionally, the AEM S2000, I believe, is the car that Steph Papadakis drove in the Formula D series in 2006... here are a few shots I took of that car that year.

131262764.jpg

131262765.jpg


I'm also not sure about the RE Amemiya FD3S RX-7... i feel like that is a drift car, but I'm not sure....

I wonder if all of these cars have the same settings...
 
The RE Amemiya FD3S RX-7 is a D1 spec car in real life, they also use it as a touge monster in the Best Motoring videos.

It is a very good drift car in GT5

dscn1010zu6.jpg

dscn1014ar9.jpg


a personal fav.
 
When I gave it a try with original settings,it was horrible. Really hard to get it sliding.
Been tweaking for a while now to make it softer,but now it oversteers a tad to much..
But it actually really is a monster. I use it with Stage3 turbo and it slides around corners with impressive speed. Just like in Nomuken's videos.
 
This car has crushed all my other drift cars. I'm rocking the stock settings with the power around 560hp and comfort hard tires. I can connect trial mountain time and time again without slipping up. I just won the aem s2000 so I might give that a shot aswell but to be honest I love the skyline. And since it rocks and rb25 neo, its close to the rb25 in my r33 gts25t:D
 
The RE Amemiya FD3S RX-7 is a D1 spec car in real life, they also use it as a touge monster in the Best Motoring videos.

It is a very good drift car in GT5

dscn1010zu6.jpg

dscn1014ar9.jpg


a personal fav.

this is not a d1 spec car.....but it is the "touge monster" crowned in hot version

the d1 spec car is a different car that looks very similar in appearance to this.
d1 spec features a wide front and rear fenders.....same color scheme just a different car.

the fd on the picture you posted is a street legal modified car
 
Back