Blitz Hendrix Tuning- Closing down.....

[L_Hamilton]

If you're lowering your power, why not lower your weight to? lowering your PP overall gives a good grid spot though.

I lowered it as far as it can go..I got that part covered

I'll post up my Set up in a bit

 

[Dragonistic]

I lowered it as far as it can go..I got that part covered

Fair enough, I do as well on all my cars, i think even if you ran it at 748PP you'd probably start at the front of the main rivals unless someone else is doing the same.

 

[L_Hamilton]

Fair enough, I do as well on all my cars, i think even if you ran it at 748PP you'd probably start at the front of the main rivals unless someone else is doing the same.

Yeah you are starting in front of them , but your still very fast. If you up this car to 750pp, you'll run slower lap times. More power is slower for this car.


Set up

Power -13

Weight 87

Tyres R3 R3

Aero 11 24

741pp

 

[Dragonistic]

Ahh but i run Max Downforce and min weight i run 1:37.5 or around there generally.

 

[Blitz187]

Yeah you are starting in front of them , but your still very fast. If you up this car to 750pp, you'll run slower lap times. More power is slower for this car.


Set up

Power -13

Weight 87

Tyres R3 R3

Aero 11 24

741pp

Hmmm That seems about the same as what I did except Im still at 750pp... I had changed the setup a bit already but didnt get around to posting it yet... they are minor differences so I dont know if the difference in time is going to be any better.. I did however change the final gear... check the setup post Thanks for the feedback though! Much appreciated and I see we share a good taste in cars 👍👍

 

[Blitz187]

Ahh but i run Max Downforce and min weight i run 1:37.5 or around there generally.

I had tried that earlier as well... Max downforce and minimum weight... but then I felt it was lacking in the top end department and on the straights I would get eaten alive, because even though the car is light then it just doesnt have enough power to propel it forward enough... could be my driving though as well... exit speed not being high enough coming out of the last turn...

 

[NLxAROSA]

In my experience downforce is much less needed when using R-tyres since they have increased grip after the last update.

 

[Blitz187]

In my experience downforce is much less needed when using R-tyres since they have increased grip after the last update.

Very true indeed.... Its quite a hassle trying to find that optimum balance, where you have enough of everything (power, reduced weight, downforce, tires) and it goes like stink

 

[Dragonistic]

It's not needed for a fast lap time, but it sure as hell helps stick down some great overtakes during the first section of the track.

 

[L_Hamilton]

Yeah really. I'm adding a little more brake to it. So I can late brake if need be.

 

[Rusty*]

Yeah really. I'm adding a little more brake to it. So I can late brake if need be.

Hi Mine'S_GTR, nice Avatar wheels man! Yeah the Mine's GT-R is deffinetely the 'ULTIMATE RESPONSE MACHINE'.👍
KT in addition to whats in your Sig said "I felt more fear than pleasure".
What a weapon the Mine's have made of the GT-R!
Now on topic, you have said that your adding more brake to it, so you can brake later??
The reason I say thats odd is because the only brake option in GT5 is the Brake Balance...which is actually a sensitivity adjustment setting. So by increasing this, you are not giving the car additional brake force, you are simply altering its braking sensitivity. For example when you apply the brakes, if you have for say increased the rear brake sensitivity higher than the front, that will result in having a higher level of braking sensitivity in the rear wheels than the front by whatever adjustment you made. By increasing this adjustment it can actually make it harder to brake effectively into corners, (Iv'e noticed this while using Pro Physics). So I would suggest reducing it so you are giving yourself a greater ability to be sensitive under brakes, as opposed to lightly pressing the brakes and having them be nearly or fully applied.
Hope you find this info helpful
OnlineGT

 

[NLxAROSA]

The brake sensitivity setting will large depend on your driving style and the effect you're trying to achieve (e.g. the amount of oversteer/understeer while braking and cornering). It also varies a lot by car. While 6/5 is very nice for the Mine's GTR, it would totally mess up a Viper for instance. Remember it's sensitivity only, which says nothing about the force or the size of the brakes used in front or rear. Sensitivity is the amount of that force is applied when the brake pedal is pressed for a certain amount (all relative to the actual force of the brakes ofcourse).
Feel free to correct me if you think it's wrong.

 

[Rusty*]

The brake sensitivity setting will large depend on your driving style and the effect you're trying to achieve (e.g. the amount of oversteer/understeer while braking and cornering). It also varies a lot by car. While 6/5 is very nice for the Mine's GTR, it would totally mess up a Viper for instance. Remember it's sensitivity only, which says nothing about the force or the size of the brakes used in front or rear. Sensitivity is the amount of that force is applied when the brake pedal is pressed for a certain amount (all relative to the actual force of the brakes ofcourse).
Feel free to correct me if you think it's wrong.

Yes that was my point exactly.
This sensitivity adjustment can be helpful for setting your car up to drift, as the settings required to perform well in Drift are different to those required for Grip driving.👍

 

[Born_Racer]

I tried this setting and I can say i'm impressed. The car is very easy to drive but seems to lack the straight line speed, or its just maybe that my exit on the last turn is not that good so I cant carry enough speed through the long straight.
Just a question, is this setting for standard or pro, I tried this at pro and can only get around a time of low 1:41 which is pretty slow compare to the other drivers here.

New Setup!!!

Setup for Fuji 750PP race

I am not that great with the tuning now after the update, but I try ... This is experimental... work in progress, try if out and give some feedback to improve this one... I know it can go faster!

-edit... After these changes it runs pretty stable.... think its gonna be good online too

Made some changes... check the bold print!

Power, weight, downforce, final gear, rear camber and rear toe have been changed! - 13-8-2008

Mines BNR34 Skyline GTR- 750pp- Fuji Speedway 750PP


Power: 514 -11
Weight: 1139KG 85%
tyres: R3

Aero: 11 28
ride height: -13 -13
spring rate: 6 7
damper: 7 8
toe: -0.09 +0.19
camber: 1.3 1.5
brakes: 4 3
torque: 20

angle: 40
TCS: off
ABS: 1

1st: 3.433
2nd: 2.278
3rd: 1.625
4th: 1.294
5th: 1.042
6th: 0.839

final: 3.602

Enjoy!!

 

[L_Hamilton]

Hi Mine'S_GTR, nice Avatar wheels man! Yeah the Mine's GT-R is deffinetely the 'ULTIMATE RESPONSE MACHINE'.👍
KT in addition to whats in your Sig said "I felt more fear than pleasure".
What a weapon the Mine's have made of the GT-R!
Now on topic, you have said that your adding more brake to it, so you can brake later??
The reason I say thats odd is because the only brake option in GT5 is the Brake Balance...which is actually a sensitivity adjustment setting. So by increasing this, you are not giving the car additional brake force, you are simply altering its braking sensitivity. For example when you apply the brakes, if you have for say increased the rear brake sensitivity higher than the front, that will result in having a higher level of braking sensitivity in the rear wheels than the front by whatever adjustment you made. By increasing this adjustment it can actually make it harder to brake effectively into corners, (Iv'e noticed this while using Pro Physics). So I would suggest reducing it so you are giving yourself a greater ability to be sensitive under brakes, as opposed to lightly pressing the brakes and having them be nearly or fully applied.
Hope you find this info helpful
OnlineGT

I was going to put "I felt more fear than pleasure" but people might have the wrong idea.>_<
I have almost no brakes on right now so I have to brake before everyone else losing 1-2 spots in turn 1.And when you say higher sensitivity, that means its quicker to respond right? So that being said, couldn't I late brake?

I usually run my brakes 6 4

 

[Rusty*]

I was going to put "I felt more fear than pleasure" but people might have the wrong idea.>_<
I have almost no brakes on right now so I have to brake before everyone else losing 1-2 spots in turn 1.And when you say higher sensitivity, that means its quicker to respond right? So that being said, couldn't I late brake?

I usually run my brakes 6 4

It's easy to get confused with some settings, such as The Brake Sensitivity and damper. With Brake sensitivity think of it like your brake pedal in real life, in an average car if you press halfway on your break pedal you want to get about half brake force, if you press all the way then you want maximum brake force. The in game setting is to simulate this action, however you get to adjust this to assist you in applying your break force to the desired amount. For instance with controller users it can be quite hard to slowly apply the breaks, or to slowly release the breaks. This is because you only have about 1.5mm of play in the Square button, uless of course you use the right Joystick and pull back to slowly apply or release the breaks which works for some people.👍
For Wheel users who have their pedals setup, they have alot more travel from non breaks to having the pedal fully flat.
Another way of saying sensitivity is to say "touchy", the sensivity option adjusts how touchy your brakes are to pressure.
So if you increase your Break sensitivity right up to say 8 then your breaks are going to be hard to apply unless of couse you have more travel as a Pedal user has.
I hope you understand this, sorry its pretty hard to explain any other way.
Yeah I understand what you mean about KT comment, plus I think the quote in your sig is better, really puts emphasis on it, the Mine's GT-R is the Ultimate Car man, it's a total weapon lol!

 

[Dragonistic]

For instance with controller users it can be quite hard to slowly apply the breaks, or to slowly release the breaks. This is because you only have about 1.5mm of play in the Square button, uless of course you use the right Joystick and pull back to slowly apply or release the breaks which works for some people.👍

Or triggers, i use L2 brake R2 accelerate and can even simulate a heel-toe shift effect under braking because my shift buttons are R1 and L1 so i have everything there so i can use them all at once.

 

[NLxAROSA]

I have almost no brakes on right now so I have to brake before everyone else losing 1-2 spots in turn 1. And when you say higher sensitivity, that means its quicker to respond right? So that being said, couldn't I late brake?

I think you wouldn't want brake sensitivity settings to be at either end of the spectrum (e.g. extremely high or extremely low). Extremely high will result in loss of control when braking and cornering at the same time, while extremely low will result in you having to brake way too early.

I usually run my brakes 6 4

This would be fine for the Mine's, but not for other cars.

Brake sensitivity says nothing about the actual power being applied. If you have a car with huge, powerful brakes at the front and tiny, weak brakes at the rear, a 4/6 sensitivity setting may still result in more brake power being applied at the front than at the rear.

Something to keep in mind when tuning.

 

[Blitz187]

I tried this setting and I can say i'm impressed. The car is very easy to drive but seems to lack the straight line speed, or its just maybe that my exit on the last turn is not that good so I cant carry enough speed through the long straight.
Just a question, is this setting for standard or pro, I tried this at pro and can only get around a time of low 1:41 which is pretty slow compare to the other drivers here.

These settings were made under pro settings.... and 1:41 is about what I do as well.. dont ask me how they get 1:38s?!?!?! Ive done it once maybe... and I usually get constant 1:40s. on the straight youre going to have to try and draft to get high speed when in a race... Thanks for the feedback, glad you like it... feel free to adjust it to your driving style if you want...

 

[Rusty*]

Or triggers, i use L2 brake R2 accelerate and can even simulate a heel-toe shift effect under braking because my shift buttons are R1 and L1 so i have everything there so i can use them all at once.

I was actually going to say that someone ( I couldn't remember it was you) was using the L2, R2 for Brake and accelerater. I bet you find it much better right, you have so much more 'button travel' with the those.
And you say you can simulate heel-toe shift? Hows that work? You need a clutch for that don't you?
I thought the whole idea of the Heal-Toe manuerver was to allow downshifting earlier by 'blipping' the accelerator between downshifts to match the Engine speed with the driveline speed? This of couse gets the engine brakes working and therfor assisting in slowing the momentum of the vehicle.
I'm not sure what you mean, sounds like good news though, have you noticed any benifits?

 

[Dragonistic]

Basically what im doing is blipping the throttle as i press downshift or literally milliseconds after, to keep the revs up and use the engine braking a little more, i practiced the technique on Eiger with the Mines for a few laps not knowing if i was gaining much time or not, then took it out on Fuji free run and on my third lap managed my new fastest for the car at 1:37.446, now if i had've had more laps then got this time, i may have regarded it as just a good lap, but maybe this is working its difficult to tell. Regardless i like doing it anyway and will continue to do so.

 

[Rusty*]

Basically what im doing is blipping the throttle as i press downshift or literally milliseconds after, to keep the revs up and use the engine braking a little more, i practiced the technique on Eiger with the Mines for a few laps not knowing if i was gaining much time or not, then took it out on Fuji free run and on my third lap managed my new fastest for the car at 1:37.446, now if i had've had more laps then got this time, i may have regarded it as just a good lap, but maybe this is working its difficult to tell. Regardless i like doing it anyway and will continue to do so.

Yeah I understand what your saying now, How good does it sound too!!👍
The Mine's sounds absolutley amazing which helps.

 

[Blitz187]

YAY!!! New events... I'm going to do some tuning when I get home... if I come across something nice I'll be sure to post it up here... Stay tuned.... no pun intended there 👍

 

[Dragonistic]

You shouldn't need much tweaking, i didn't change a thing on mine and it goes under 1:59 round Suzuka.

 

[Blitz187]

You shouldn't need much tweaking, i didn't change a thing on mine and it goes under 1:59 round Suzuka.

Oh cool... thats good to here... just got home from work... so Im going to fire up the PS3 now... see ya online! 👍👍

 

[Dragonistic]

Oh cool... thats good to here... just got home from work... so Im going to fire up the PS3 now... see ya online! 👍👍

Depending on your power/weight/downforce setting really, they might need adjusting but other then that not alot need's done, mine were already set the way i want them so nothing needed doing.

 

[Blitz187]

Depending on your power/weight/downforce setting really, they might need adjusting but other then that not alot need's done, mine were already set the way i want them so nothing needed doing.

You know I was just going through my settings booklet and for Suzuka I used your tune!! HAHAhah I love it... LOL back then I hadnt started tuning yet and didnt start posting til Daytona Road... So ummm Yeah Thanks for the tune! 👍👍

 

[Dragonistic]

Your very welcome, thats what I'm here for

 

[L_Hamilton]

It's easy to get confused with some settings, such as The Brake Sensitivity and damper. With Brake sensitivity think of it like your brake pedal in real life, in an average car if you press halfway on your break pedal you want to get about half brake force, if you press all the way then you want maximum brake force. The in game setting is to simulate this action, however you get to adjust this to assist you in applying your break force to the desired amount. For instance with controller users it can be quite hard to slowly apply the breaks, or to slowly release the breaks. This is because you only have about 1.5mm of play in the Square button, uless of course you use the right Joystick and pull back to slowly apply or release the breaks which works for some people.👍
For Wheel users who have their pedals setup, they have alot more travel from non breaks to having the pedal fully flat.
Another way of saying sensitivity is to say "touchy", the sensivity option adjusts how touchy your brakes are to pressure.
So if you increase your Break sensitivity right up to say 8 then your breaks are going to be hard to apply unless of couse you have more travel as a Pedal user has.
I hope you understand this, sorry its pretty hard to explain any other way.
Yeah I understand what you mean about KT comment, plus I think the quote in your sig is better, really puts emphasis on it, the Mine's GT-R is the Ultimate Car man, it's a total weapon lol!

I think you wouldn't want brake sensitivity settings to be at either end of the spectrum (e.g. extremely high or extremely low). Extremely high will result in loss of control when braking and cornering at the same time, while extremely low will result in you having to brake way too early.

This would be fine for the Mine's, but not for other cars.

Brake sensitivity says nothing about the actual power being applied. If you have a car with huge, powerful brakes at the front and tiny, weak brakes at the rear, a 4/6 sensitivity setting may still result in more brake power being applied at the front than at the rear.

Something to keep in mind when tuning.

Thanks guys. You guys make it easier for me to understand now. Now I have an understanding of what to do in terms of braking.👍👍

 

[Peissi]

Hi guys! I'm new to gtplanet so if this post is in the wrong thread, I'm terribly sorry. I had trouble with S-10 and after a few long nights of work, swearing and crying, I managed to get my package together. The setup which you will soon see is the one I managed to pull off a lap time of 2.02.017 in Suzuka in Standard mode(offline time, so no statistics can't be found, though I'm going to try it again soon in Online mode). So, here you are:

Power -5
Weight 99%
Tyres R1, R1
Aerodynamics 10, 30

Ride Height -15, -15
Spring Rate 7, 7
Damper 7, 7
Toe 0.00, 0.00
Camber 1.0, 0.5
Brake Balance 7, 5
Turning Angle 40
Traction Off
ABS 1

1st gear 3.827
2nd gear 2.322
3rd gear 1.690
4th gear 1.312
5th gear 1.000
6th gear 0.793
Final 3.726

Plz try it and tell me what you think!

Edit: This is a setting for the S-10 event, that's why I used 725pp