BMW 3-Series Settings

  • Thread starter Skyliner6
  • 16 comments
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What's it doing that you don't like?

Welcome to GTP, by the way. Enjoy your stay here and trade some good information with the community.
 
Ah. Well, depending on what you've done to it, here are the basic steps:

1) Make sure the ride height is equal front and rear. If it is higher in back it will carry more static weight on the rear wheels.

2) Soften the front dampers - bound and rebound - compared to the rears. If it understeers under acceleration, soften the front rebound and stiffen the rear. If it understeers under braking, soften the front bound and stiffen the rear.

3) Lighten up on the front stabilizer bar, or go a little heavier on the rear.

4) Soften the front springs a little.

5) If you have an LSD, reduce the effect (acceleration or deceleration, depending on where your problem is).

Good luck!
 
Originally posted by Audiyoda
Good luck, Skyliner, as the Garage can onlt hold 200 cars.
Which is just fine, since there are only about 150 cars in the game (not counting colors).
 
1) Make sure the ride height is equal front and rear. If it is higher in back it will carry more static weight on the rear wheels.
4) Soften the front springs a little.

Neon you are close I think. But i looked at my bimmer and it's more like this if you are having probs still. These are for full mods no NA tune up and hard tires per my norm.

Raising rear ride height has nothing to do with static weight. It will raise the roll center however which can help pull the rear end around as a last resort. So yes doing that helps but it isn't weight.

Second keep the front spring rates higher than the rear by a slight about.

From there i'd run about 2.6 to 2.9 front camber and 1.9 to 2.4 rear.

Stabilizer is at 3 front and 6 rear on my car. Ride height is the same.

Stiffen the rebound damping in the rear to about level 8. Lower bound to 5 front and rear.

.5 toe out in front and 0 rear.
 
Originally posted by RobweenerPI
Raising rear ride height has nothing to do with static weight. It will raise the roll center however which can help pull the rear end around as a last resort. So yes doing that helps but it isn't weight.
Yeah, of course you're right RPI. I keep forgetting that corner weighting isn't really modelled in GT3. Maybe next time.
Second keep the front spring rates higher than the rear by a slight [amount].
Agreed, due to weight distrubution in the FR car.
From there i'd run about 2.6 to 2.9 front camber and 1.9 to 2.4 rear.
Maybe it's just that my real world experience comes from mostly FWD cars, but I have a tendency to keep rear camber at -1.0 or less, particularly if there is an understeer problem. As high as -1.5 if there is oversteer to deal with. I agree with going as high as -3.0 in front; there doesn't seem to be too much side effect.
.5 toe out in front and 0 rear. [/B]
Also based on my real world experience, I don't subscribe to the 'toe out in front' theory. I find it just makes the car twitchy without any real benefit. Also, from an engineering standpoint it works against you because the loaded tire is getting less steering angle per given input. For an understeering car, I'd start with -0.5 toe (out) in the rear, and zero toe up front. This will help the car rotate a bit. If that's not enough, add +0.5 toe (in) at the front and see if that helps.

Great discussion, Rob! I hope we're helping.
 
Yeah I found pretty quick in GT3 that corner weights basically don't exist in this game. All the cars are essentially the same too. The only differences I see are the position of the engine and the driveline. Personally I'd like to see about 10 less songs on the soundtrack or all of them gone and actually have real suspention and handling differences for the cars. Strangely though.....roll couple(the effect adjusted by biasing the strenth of the roll bars) seems to have the biggest overall affect on the handling. So I guess this does mean that each model has it's CG programed in as well as roll center and track widths. They are pretty close to having a really good sim I think, just one more step. Also, am i the only one who would like a feature that allowed you to see tire temps, cornerweights, weight dis., tire wear, or other indicators of the overall handling of the car.

Neon thats pretty low camber in the rear...Is that just to get a better launch out of tight corners?? I do that too sometimes at Monaco and Seattle to get better acceleration out of tight corners. What happens in high speed corners where you need the camber?? I can imagine that could get interesting here and there, like the downhill sweeper on Mid Field after the second long straight for intense. Does the advantage of better straightline performance help enough...
 
Well, I'm not sure. I do find it digs in a little better on exit with less camber in the rear. I really really hate understeer, and I find in general GT3 cars tend to understeer a lot during acceleration. Reducing the rear camber helps me rotate the car a little better during sweepers and low speed turns, and the straight-line traction advatage seems to help marginally when leaving a low speed corner. I'd rather let the car slide a little during the fast turns than have to dink around trying to negotiate the tight ones in a car that always wants to visit the outside wall.
 
I'm the opposite pretty much. I don't mind slipping in slow stuff, thats what the powerslide was invented for:D . If we ran comparable lap times I bet we'd have a good race head to head.
 
The BMW doesn't suck, It rules. It's one of the funnest and sexiest production cars in the game. (in my opinion). Although, I wish they had the M3 and the old 1970 2002's in this game. Try these settings, they work pretty well for me.

Spring Rate 12.5 15.0

Ride Height 102 102

Shock Bound 4 7

Shock Rebound 5 6

Camber 2.0 1.2

Toe -0.5 0.0

Stabilizer 3 4

Brake Balance 16 12

Initial Torque 10

Accel 30

Decel 15

TCS 2 or 3
 
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