Brake Bias
- Thread starter Jmyguk
- 21 comments
- 12,071 views
- 798
- Vancouver
- Nando_deBem
- 152
- United Kingdom
- Quasar100
Depends on your driving style to be honest.
Generally, FF with bias to the rear help turn in under breaking loads... on the contrary for FR where they naturally yield more over-steer; relative to FFs. So, I'd have a break bias on about -2 to the front for my FRs. With MRs I'd say it's down to driver style (generally i flick between 2/3 either way on the NSX or Ferrari) and how you come in to your corners and exit and the position of the car... this will in effect be down to your breaking. IMPO anyway.
Generally, FF with bias to the rear help turn in under breaking loads... on the contrary for FR where they naturally yield more over-steer; relative to FFs. So, I'd have a break bias on about -2 to the front for my FRs. With MRs I'd say it's down to driver style (generally i flick between 2/3 either way on the NSX or Ferrari) and how you come in to your corners and exit and the position of the car... this will in effect be down to your breaking. IMPO anyway.
- 15,532
- Cairo, Egypt
- GTP_SEMS
I used to set rear and 4 wheel drive cars to front bias but it doesn't suit my style most of the time. I like the added turn in due to having rear brake bias. There is no rule of thumb I reckon. Matter of driving style.
user3392345
(Banned)
- 702
- Antarctica
+3 to rear on all cars atm, i bet we need to find the sweet spot again, after patch tomorrow
- 1,054
- Braga, Portugal
- pedrocor
Depends on your driving style as said.
The more you put on the rear, the easier is to point the front to the corner (less tendency to block fronts, as there is less braking force applied, also less interference of ABS), but with more weight in the front, and more brake force on the rear, the rear is less stable, so no wonder many of the aliens use CSA.
For me, a good hint is test the car with tire wear, and try to adjust tire wear with brake balance, putting more pressure on the axle with less wear.
Usually for me, you end up getting a sweet spot for both brake bias and tire wear.
The more you put on the rear, the easier is to point the front to the corner (less tendency to block fronts, as there is less braking force applied, also less interference of ABS), but with more weight in the front, and more brake force on the rear, the rear is less stable, so no wonder many of the aliens use CSA.
For me, a good hint is test the car with tire wear, and try to adjust tire wear with brake balance, putting more pressure on the axle with less wear.
Usually for me, you end up getting a sweet spot for both brake bias and tire wear.
- 54
- Melbourne
- not_dyl
I Drive it like a race kart.
+3 Rear and back it in when the rear comes alive when you lift off the brake... Once you've mastered it, it's super satisfying.
+3 Rear and back it in when the rear comes alive when you lift off the brake... Once you've mastered it, it's super satisfying.
- 15,532
- Cairo, Egypt
- GTP_SEMS
Never mind. Rear bias all the way.
- 1,324
- Toronto
I think this is in your head.
I've recently noticed that if you watch other players replays - the braking points look like they're later than they are - but it's actually lag in the replay.
When I watch my own replays, it's almost like the brakes don't come on in the telemetry a split second after I've actually began applying them.
I spent awhile testing brake biases on the circuit experience for Dragons Trail at turn 1, and BB at +5 allowed me to go quickest as it controlled my trail braking the best, other brake settings may have been slightly better braking power, but overall were giving me slower exit speeds and it wasn't like at BB +5 I had to brake 2 metres earlier or something, all the brake points were basically the same - it was just +5 was fastest in the Jag.
- 658
- Canada
I usually use -2/-3 on FR cars for much faster braking and weight transfer into corners, MR -1 to +2 depending on car and track, +3/+4 for AWD, +1/+2 for FF. The exception is cars like the Gr4 86, Gr3 WRX & Lancer I prefer +1 rear bias to keep that corner rotation in control.
Yesterday doing Interlagos race C with tire/fuel accounted for, I went without pitting so I set my brake bias to +5 for less wear & tear on front wheels with the TT Cup and finished 2nd.
* wheel user with just ABS weak.
Yesterday doing Interlagos race C with tire/fuel accounted for, I went without pitting so I set my brake bias to +5 for less wear & tear on front wheels with the TT Cup and finished 2nd.
* wheel user with just ABS weak.
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- 71
- The United Federation of Milk
When I go to open lobbies, I tend to go 2 or 3+ as I prefer that for slidding around and such. When I get serious, I prefer to use 3-4 towards the rear, especially with more front biased cars (Corvette, F-Type, etc)
- 220
- United States
- nommy44
I experience a lot of "turn more damnit" but I have been setting all my cars to -2 (front) when I was initially playing with brake bias early on in the game release and that seemed to be the best setting. I tried setting rear bias and the car seems to get upset too quickly, maybe I need to learn how to drive mo betta. i'll give it some trials tonight with rear bias, see if it helps with my DS4 slow turning
zzz_pt
Premium
- 8,188
- Porto living in Hamburg
- zzz_pt
I usually put +5 as soon as I get to drive a new car, then adjust according to the track. I might end up with 0 or +1. For example, with the AMG, I drive +1 (without tire wear) or 0 (with tire wear) at Lake Maggiore but at Kyoto (the longer one), I use +5.
Some people change it constantly on the fly as they approach certain corners/sections.
Mount Panorama, for example, I set +5 from the Falken corner up to the straight where the first sector ends. Then I change to +2 or 0. I guess everyone will change the BB differently because of different driving styles.
Some fast people don't touch the BB at all.
Some people change it constantly on the fly as they approach certain corners/sections.
Mount Panorama, for example, I set +5 from the Falken corner up to the straight where the first sector ends. Then I change to +2 or 0. I guess everyone will change the BB differently because of different driving styles.
Some fast people don't touch the BB at all.
- 792
- Canada
In some cars adding bias to the rear gives a huge advantage in cornering, especially when lifting off the brake. The Gr.4 M4 right now has considerably better turn in with some extra rear bias. That plus TC off to maintain the extra angle and you can power out of the corner once you've turned in. Makes for much faster lap times.
- 2,295
- Indiana
- pie4july
The top guys use 5+? Really? With my T150, I spin out trying that.
For me, it depends on the track. For some tracks like interlagos I tend to prefer -1 or -2. For most tracks I do +2. I usually drive Gr3/4 Viper
For me, it depends on the track. For some tracks like interlagos I tend to prefer -1 or -2. For most tracks I do +2. I usually drive Gr3/4 Viper
- 71
- The United Federation of Milk
Ya see, It's kinda a scummy move if you're actually skilled at driving without TC but going out of a turn, crank the TC to two, then quickly spin it back to one or zero.
- 7
- United States
I set up each car based on front/rear weight distribution to start with (or at least perceived weight distribution), and then tune to each track from there. When it comes to brake balance, from an engineering standpoint, optimal braking efficiency can be calculated by matching the ratio of front/rear brake distribution to the ratio of supported weight at the front/rear axle. Which isn't as simple as it seems...
The tricky part about this is that the weight distribution is never static under braking... you can start at a static baseline (parked car) but that should be considered the absolute minimum point of weight distribution to the front axle and the absolute maximum distribution to the rear. Once momentum and inertia are added in, every instance of braking will increase the weight supported at the front axle and decrease the supported weight on the rear; the extent of that increase/decrease is obviously dependent upon the degree or severity of braking force (if you're standing on the brake pedal, the weight distribution is going to drastically pitch towards the front axle). And that's before you even take track grade into account... for example, braking on a downhill grade will pitch the weight distribution even further onto the front axle versus the same braking force on a level grade. This is why it's important to tune to the track as well. Some tracks have their most important turns on a downhill, others are level, others uphill...
If your goal is to stop the car in as short a distance as possible, your brake distribution should match your dynamic weight distribution under braking load. In other words, if the weight of your car WHILE UNDER BRAKING is being supported 80% by the front axle and 20% by the rear, then the most efficient brake setup should mirror that distribution.
*however, this assumes that your goal is to stop the car in as short a distance as possible. In reality, everyone has their own driving style, especially when it comes down to any given car on any given track... driving styles can vary drastically even for the same driver. If you rely on a significant amount of trail braking, for example, then stopping your car in a straight line isn't really your goal while approaching that particular corner. And if you're faster doing it that way, then you may WANT to set up your brakes to roll through a turn while braking instead of stopping. In the end, it all comes down to your own driving style.
The tricky part about this is that the weight distribution is never static under braking... you can start at a static baseline (parked car) but that should be considered the absolute minimum point of weight distribution to the front axle and the absolute maximum distribution to the rear. Once momentum and inertia are added in, every instance of braking will increase the weight supported at the front axle and decrease the supported weight on the rear; the extent of that increase/decrease is obviously dependent upon the degree or severity of braking force (if you're standing on the brake pedal, the weight distribution is going to drastically pitch towards the front axle). And that's before you even take track grade into account... for example, braking on a downhill grade will pitch the weight distribution even further onto the front axle versus the same braking force on a level grade. This is why it's important to tune to the track as well. Some tracks have their most important turns on a downhill, others are level, others uphill...
If your goal is to stop the car in as short a distance as possible, your brake distribution should match your dynamic weight distribution under braking load. In other words, if the weight of your car WHILE UNDER BRAKING is being supported 80% by the front axle and 20% by the rear, then the most efficient brake setup should mirror that distribution.
*however, this assumes that your goal is to stop the car in as short a distance as possible. In reality, everyone has their own driving style, especially when it comes down to any given car on any given track... driving styles can vary drastically even for the same driver. If you rely on a significant amount of trail braking, for example, then stopping your car in a straight line isn't really your goal while approaching that particular corner. And if you're faster doing it that way, then you may WANT to set up your brakes to roll through a turn while braking instead of stopping. In the end, it all comes down to your own driving style.
