Brake calibration in GT Sport (yet again) and brake mod questions for T-LCM

[peterrod]

Hi all,

I think that braking inconsistency is holding me back a little bit since it's really difficult to gauge the brake pressure in this game. I use the Thrustmaster T3PA pedals with the conical mod and I've seen plenty of other threads where people cut it off or modify the mod itself but I don't particularly want to do that. To those of you who are fast and consistent with braking, and use T3PA (Pro) pedals, do you use the mod or just to distance-based braking with the potentiometer?

I'm currently waiting for the T-LCM pedals to be delivered next week, but I'm concerned that the same problem will arise because the game recalibrates brake pressure whenever you brake harder than the hardest you had braked up to that point. I know that braking hard when you first start a race calibrates the pedal, but if you panic-brake or slam the brakes harder, that will be your new 100% and the next lap the braking reference points will not be the same. The whole point of having a load cell is to improve braking but it seems like in GT Sport this is not a possibility. Does this mean that all the World Tour players just use normal potentiometer braking?

Also, has anyone used this kind of mod to replicate the feel of hydraulic braking with any of the load cell pedals out there? I'm tempted to buy it but I'd like to hear opinions from other people who may have used this kind of thing before if it really improves the feel, especially when you already have a load cell.

https://www.apexv2r.com/products/ap...ustmaster-t-lcm-pedals?variant=31489697775710

 

[superwally]

I have a Ricmotech load cell in a similar set of pedals. It was impossible to use with no 'hard' calibration, so I drilled holes through the brake pedal chassis and installed a cross bolt at the point where I wanted the pedal to absolutely stop. It was trial and error with pedal travel, firmness, and making sure braking would hit 100% before the pedal stopped. Crude, but effective.

 

[Leggacy]

The rubber cone mod works really well once you’ve added a hard stop. Yes it requires a little bit of modification, drilling a hole and adding a bolt but it’s totally worth it.

I have a different rubber cone under there now, a vibration isolator cost £1.50 works a lot better than that yellow one

 

[peterrod]

Thanks for the suggestions and the picture, very helpful. I guess the load cell from the T-LCM will be a no go for gt sport then. That's sad. I really hope that PD puts in proper brake calibration for the next game.

 

[Leggacy]

Thanks for the suggestions and the picture, very helpful. I guess the load cell from the T-LCM will be a no go for gt sport then. That's sad. I really hope that PD puts in proper brake calibration for the next game.

The thing with just the cone is that when you press harder it can re-calibrate the max position. Adding the stop takes away the guess work it makes braking much more consistent

 

[ststav01]

I think that the way GT Sport works with braking is a total joke.... it is definitely not reliable to recalibrate the pedal every time you slam on the brakes. There was a case where I really hit hard the brake pedal (didn't know about the recalibration) and on the next lap when I started applying the "usual" force to the pedal I went off really bad Good to know other people have problems with this as well - it makes the use of loadcell totally useless in such scenario (except for real immersion, rather than having a rubber imitating the stiffening feel of the pedal)

P.S. Im using G29 pedals and started thinking if it is going to be better and more consistent for me to remove the rubber from the brake - the only problem then would be getting used to the 25% of deadzone when I hit the end travel of the brake

 

[Groundfish]

People who say a load cell is useless in gts are dead wrong.
The guys who use a hard stop have it dialed and csl load cell works fabulous.
Once you know what quiet braking is and how to adjust to achieve it you’re set.
Tbh I think maybe 80-90 percent of folks incorrectly understand how those work or how to optimally adjust things. Jmo

There’s a lot to coming OFF the pedal right to balance the car in gts that needs to be appreciated. Way more time to be gained getting to more throttle getting power down earlier and harder on exit based on coming off pedal than anything imo.

 

[peterrod]

People who say a load cell is useless in gts are dead wrong.
The guys who use a hard stop have it dialed and csl load cell works fabulous.
Once you know what quiet braking is and how to adjust to achieve it you’re set.
Tbh I think maybe 80-90 percent of folks incorrectly understand how those work or how to optimally adjust things. Jmo

There’s a lot to coming OFF the pedal right to balance the car in gts that needs to be appreciated. Way more time to be gained getting to more throttle getting power down earlier and harder on exit based on coming off pedal than anything imo.

The CSL load cell is fine because you can change the settings on the wheel itself I think (I used to have the CSV1 pedals), but with thrustmaster or logitech there is no option to adjust the settings directly on the wheel (only in PC), so the pedals will just go all the way and that is what GTS will detect. There is no way around it with these two brands in GT Sport.

 

[Donnced]

The CSL load cell is fine because you can change the settings on the wheel itself I think (I used to have the CSV1 pedals), but with thrustmaster or logitech there is no option to adjust the settings directly on the wheel (only in PC), so the pedals will just go all the way and that is what GTS will detect. There is no way around it with these two brands in GT Sport.

Thrustmaster said that they will provide the wheels and players of the world tours with the New Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals.
So they should work properly with GT Sport...
Don't forget that Thrustmaster is also the official wheel brand of the game

BTW some settings form the Thrustmaster control panel setted on PC stays "saved" in the wheel.
So surely that some settings for the load cell setted on PC will also stay saved for PS4

Edit:

I let here 2 videos of a very well known simracer in Spain

In the first video he test the Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals with the out of box settings in GT sport,F1 game, assetto corsa and iracing without ABS to try out the load cell.

In the second video he harderd the springs (red one above,black one below) recommended to him by an professional driver and test it out in a daily race of GT sport.





He really likes the feeling of the pedals and says that it's really worthy in this price range

 

[GerseyCX]

I installed the TLCM pedals on Saturday. I can confirm not only do they work on GT Sport they work very well.

 

[mrjhack]

I have a problem :
the dead zone of the brake pedal is very long on GT sport.
but not on the PC program.
I have put it at 0.2 because if I let it at 2.5 it's impossible to brake...
If I put the response at 80 or 90 it's baddest...
I have to let it at 70.

the other solution is to put spacers to make more presure on the cell and have a kick response...

does anyone have the same problem of not instant response of the brake pedal bacause of the dead zone ?

thank's
(sorry for my bad english)

 

[M_A_N_I_M_A_L]

I got my T-LCM pedals delivered on April 7th. These pedals replaced the T3PA pedals that I wasn't happy with. That clicking noise every time I braked was very annoying until the brake spring broke. I replaced it with a brand new brake spring which was doing the same thing.

The T-LCM pedals are a huge upgrade and blows the T3PA out of the water. I placed the red spring on the bottom and black spring on the top while setting the brake force at 30% in the calibration tool app. The braking precision and consistency of the pedals are great and now I enjoy to race in GT Sport even more.

 

[Pigems]

I use the regular T3PA pedals without the mod, I just can’t get used to having it in there.

For the record, they use standard T3PA‘s at World Tour Events without the mod in there.

 

[PirovacBoy]

I‘m using the t3pa with the mod and it’s just a case of getting used to be smooth on the brake, both Braking and easing off. No need to Panic brake at all.
@Tidgney said in One of His streams that he is Not using it in terms of Not nerfing himself but he also mentioned that at World Tours they use them with the Mod.
And it still works so it proves that it is just a matter of adapting.
Just try what Works best for you and then just train your muscle Memory.

 

[Trone_Colby]

I have a problem :
the dead zone of the brake pedal is very long on GT sport.
but not on the PC program.
I have put it at 0.2 because if I let it at 2.5 it's impossible to brake...
If I put the response at 80 or 90 it's baddest...
I have to let it at 70.

the other solution is to put spacers to make more presure on the cell and have a kick response...

does anyone have the same problem of not instant response of the brake pedal bacause of the dead zone ?

thank's
(sorry for my bad english)

What springs are you using?

I use 1 medium and 1 soft. For the program I have the braking force at 40. The brake dead zone is 2.0

 

[Tidgney]

I‘m using the t3pa with the mod and it’s just a case of getting used to be smooth on the brake, both Braking and easing off. No need to Panic brake at all.
@Tidgney said in One of His streams that he is Not using it in terms of Not nerfing himself but he also mentioned that at World Tours they use them with the Mod.
And it still works so it proves that it is just a matter of adapting.
Just try what Works best for you and then just train your muscle Memory.

They used them them initially for world tours and most of the live events have had them, however they've taken them out now as they are inconsistent each rig ! But ye I don't use it because I think it "nerfs" braking personally !

 

[mrjhack]

What springs are you using?

I use 1 medium and 1 soft. For the program I have the braking force at 40. The brake dead zone is 2.0

solved, I've done the update of the base... all is fine now 👍
thank you

 

[Nick077]

Resurrecting an old thread.

I've got T-LCM with T300 RS base and Sparco wheel.

I'm finding it's not breaking properly, even when I have my foot has hard down as possible, on the GT screen, on the brake graphic, the red goes to the top when I push really hard, but the white lags behind, I'm not sure what the means, but I'm crashing a lot, because it's not stopping enough.

I have the hardest springs, with some spacers on as per this chaps advice:

I've tried various settings in the TM app for the pedals, at the moment, a small 2.0 dead sport at the bottom, and at the moment 100% breaking power.

Any suggestions?

 

[GTPorsche]

I'm finding it's not breaking properly, even when I have my foot has hard down as possible, on the GT screen, on the brake graphic, the red goes to the top when I push really hard, but the white lags behind, I'm not sure what the means, but I'm crashing a lot, because it's not stopping enough.

Nothing wrong with your brakes, that's just how the game is.

 

[Nick077]

Nothing wrong with your brakes, that's just how the game is.

Hmm, I didn't have the same problem with my previous Fanatec PS4 bundle?

 

[GTPorsche]

Hmm, I didn't have the same problem with my previous Fanatec PS4 bundle?

The red in the braking meter is the ABS function. It's how the game is.

 

[Nick077]

OK, well ignoring the graphics.

Its not breaking properly, i.e. I can put the break all the way down to the end of the brake travel, and its not taking off enough speed, and I'm coming off the track, doing this on the Nurburgring which I can constantly do at around 5.10-5.20 in an F1 car, and now I can barely make a lap without crashing.

 

[barak181]

OK, well ignoring the graphics.

Its not breaking properly, i.e. I can put the break all the way down to the end of the brake travel, and its not taking off enough speed, and I'm coming off the track, doing this on the Nurburgring which I can constantly do at around 5.10-5.20 in an F1 car, and now I can barely make a lap without crashing.

I have absolutely no idea about your pedals but I have found on the DS4 that after hard braking, there's a point where lifting a bit on the brake slows the car better than 100% on the pedal. I'm assuming it has something to do with the ABS model in the game. Try switching the ABS to weak and see what that does for you.

 

[PirovacBoy]

@Nick077 yo listen, I got these pedals a week ago and I had to fiddle out what works best for me.
I settled in with the same spring/Washer combo that you are using and like iRacer suggested in his Video.
But instead of 5, I just use 3Washers.
But setting the brake force to 100% is waaaay too high.
I got mine set to 62 and it’s my perfect sweet spot.
Anything between 60~65, maybe 70 if you’re a really strong legged Guy should be enough.
But 100 is definitely too much, way too much.
At least for Gran Turismo.
My advice would be use 62 and get used to it. Don’t change it. Take your time.
Your brain muscle memory has to memorize the pressure you use.
if you change it every time, you’ll not be happy.
Try it, it took me 1-2 days and now it’s perfect, I’m faster than I’ve ever been, ultra consistent and it’s so much fun now.
I used the t3pa pedals for over 3years, but these pedals are a complete game changer. Trust me...

 

[Groundfish]

I’m faster than I’ve ever been, ultra consistent and it’s so much fun now.

I gotta say. Load based brake is the way to go.
Imo the single most important bit in sim racing is a good pedal set.
My experience was same as yours. So much control. So much enjoyment.

 

[Crg57]

Resurrecting an old thread.

I've got T-LCM with T300 RS base and Sparco wheel.

I'm finding it's not breaking properly, even when I have my foot has hard down as possible, on the GT screen, on the brake graphic, the red goes to the top when I push really hard, but the white lags behind, I'm not sure what the means, but I'm crashing a lot, because it's not stopping enough.

I have the hardest springs, with some spacers on as per this chaps advice:

I've tried various settings in the TM app for the pedals, at the moment, a small 2.0 dead sport at the bottom, and at the moment 100% breaking power.

Any suggestions?

I thought it was rubbish at first. Inconsistent braking in GT sport. Plugged my T300RS in a PC for a new firmware update which recognises T-LCM pedals when they are plugged into the RJ12 port. Couldn’t believe the difference. Same consistent hard braking every time. I also used the two red springs to make it firmer. Can’t stop playing now!!