... but do you think there is any way that the analog sticks from a PS3 pad could be added to the circuit bourd of the g25 shifter some how because doing this would give steering wheel users the option to look around.
As in a lot of online races i find it hard to avoid people.
Could this be done or is it too ambitious ??
Have had much thoughts on camera movement, moved it a few times with D pad right when Prologue came out but never touched it again. Might be possible but with playstation eye head tracking that's suppose to be in GT5 I'm not sure if it'll be worth the trouble.
Give it a try?
... I can't decide whether to replicate the cockpit from my E30, or my 1st gen MR2.
I was just looking at some racing cockpits, and many have the throttle pivoting from the bottom....hmmm.
-Pi
Two very cool cars! 👍
1) Where does your cockpit come apart? I'm guessing the seat and gearshift is one half and the wheel and pedals are the other? Do you bolt it together, pin it?
The cockpit comes apart in two big pieces, right side including the center shifter tunnel, left side that runs through the entire length of the cockpit, and multiple bars/panels that joint both sides together.
They're held together with multiple machine nuts and bolts, only for the ability to take apart to move through doors or storage, not something you'll want to do often because it does take a while to put everything together.
2) Just a personal observation: Your console with the gearshift and e-brake seems higher than normal. Maybe it's just me? Maybe I'm seeing things?
Your eyes aren't playing tricks on you. I replicated the dimensions directly off my Honda S2000, which has very tall transmission tunnel (part of the x-frame chassis) and the shifter/e-brake are positioned much closer to the steering wheel than most cars.
3) do you think it's possible to separate the gearshift from the rest of the electronics in that module (based on your past experiences)?
Yes it is possible, all the internals can be easily separated from the shifter enclosure. All you need to do is built a steady mount to secure the internals in their natural position, check out my video guides on how everything come apart in the shifter unit:
4) How difficult do you think it would be to make the portion of the table that the steering wheel sits on adjustable, just like a normal car? (so the steering wheel tilts?) Same with the seat (I would think just for the seat adjusting that you'd take the whole seat assembly out of a car, not just the actual seat)
Shouldn't be very hard as long as you've used proper components. I can't imagine you'd want to adjust the steering wheel very often once you find a ideal seating position. In this case I would recommend drilling extra mounting holes to give it a more permanent mount for strength.
I mounted the seat on original seat rails which kept all the original backwards/forwards, recline, and height adjust-ability.
5) Your pedals seem a bit high as well, my car they are much lower to the floor, therefor, my heel is able to rest on the floor and my entire foot covers the entire pedal while my foot is still resting. Maybe it's the fact that the pedal isn't exactly a car pedal as the car pedal can pivot where there pedal attaches to the throttle arm.
Same with shifter above, the seating position in the S2000 is very very low, where the top of pedals are basically at the same height as seat's most forward leg (thigh) support. Speaking of pedals, G25's clutch/brake pedals are almost the same size as my car, with the exception of slighter shorter gas pedal.
6) Speaking of pedals, do you think the actual pedal can be removed to that an aftermarket pedal (custom) can be attached, maybe to be bigger or different looking?
Sure, just measured the mounting holes of your favorite pedals and drill/tap new ones if they don't match.
Thanks for answering my questions. I also plan on making the brake pedal hydralicly resistant as is a car pedal, how do you think I could go about doing that? I would imagine that the hydralic would put a little more resistance on the pedal but would still be able to travel to the floor if pressed slow enough. I haven't gotten my G25 yet (it's on the way, finally got out of some financial troubles) but I'm wondering if by the use of hydralics it would be possible to make the clutch feel somewhat real as well, with the 'catch' and the resistance afterwards.
thanks again, and awesome work!
This won't be easy, especially without sacrificing either of those you are asking.
If you want pedal to feel like hydraulic brakes on your car, you won't be able to have the same travel distance as G25's stock spring brake without reconstructing the pedal assembly. If you want to be able to slowly depress into full travel you won't have the firm feel and rebound of hydraulic brakes.
On top of that, to simulate real hydraulic, it would have to measure pressure applied on the pedal with either fluid presser sensor or load cell, not the pedal angle which is what the stock pedal is measuring with potentiometers.
Not sure if most of us have the knowledge/resources to DIY that ourselves. Check out Perfect Pedal and/or AP Electrix.
Clutch "bite" is definitely much to complex to simulate realistically, and actually does not have anything to do with hydraulic. Sure cars do use hydraulic on clutches, but it ultimately pushes against the pressure plate which basically is a very heavy spring, so clutch pedal is "angle based" just like stock G25/27 pedals.
WOW is all I can say...
Ok maybe not, but I had a few questions about your angles...
Did you make it easier on yourself and run everything on a 45 degree or is the first step up angle for your feet at a 30 degree?
I know you said something about lowing the table top 10 degrees to make it a bit more comfortable since Logitech puts there wheel at a slight angle out of the box.
Also did you pretty much build the cockpit around the chair? Or did you use something else as your building block?
I am building something similar, but for the pc so I will be adding a keyboard holder off to the left side and some few other add-ons, but I'm trying to gauge on what to start with. I'm guessing the seat is obviously the way to go but wanted to get your advice/opinion.
Thanks again and great work it really paid off.
StOBeR
Thank you very much for the compliment. The bar angle/placement were secondary after seat/wheel/pedal to replicate my car's seating position, the pedal mount just happened to be 45 degree. But keep in mind that seating position is much lower and the pedals are much more vertical than most cars, which is why I purposely left out the angles from my guide.
10 degree downward tilt on the steering wheel was perfect for me, but once again, depends on your seating position.
I wouldn't say I build the cockpit around the chair, but it's fair close because that's where I made the most adjustments to ensure seating position is true to the car. I actually sketched out the cockpit directly on a a tracing paper over a S2000 blueprint.
![Crazy :crazy: :crazy:](/wp-content/themes/gtp16/images/smilies/crazy.svg?v=3)