Clutch Heel & Toe Instruction & Demonstration
- Thread starter JogoAsobi
- 58 comments
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JogoAsobi
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- 2,578
Belgian rally driver Renaud Verreydt in his M3. He's using a sequential gearbox so not much heel-toeing, but it's definitely worth a look
1st sentence of OP above the one you quoted as an "in" for your GT6 clutch graphics:
There are various GTP GT5/GT6 threads concerning clutch issues, this isn't one of them.
Don't understand how video you posted is relevant to this thread either...
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- 28,470
- Windsor, Ontario, Canada
- Johnnypenso
In GT6 you could do it to simulate but there's nothing in the game that will penalize you if you don't do it properly. In PC sims, yes. PC sims give you the option of disallowing synchronization in the transmission through auto clutch and auto throttle blip. When you have a wheel/shifter/clutch combo you heel and toe. When you have two pedals and no shifter, you brake left foot and blip the throttle with the right foot to match revs while downshifting with the paddles, or buttons in the case of the DFGT. When damage is on, if you don't downshift properly you blow up your transmission and/or engine.
JogoAsobi
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- 2,578
Learned something I did not know! 👍
LeGeNd-1
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- 7,264
- Australia
- GTP_LeGeNd-1
PC sims are a whole different ballgame. Better clutch simulation and the option to turn on damage makes H&T a more rewarding experience. Basically my choices boil down to two reasons: is it quick or is it fun. In GT, H&T is neither of those. In PC, H&T is slower than paddles, but at least it's fun because it's properly simulated. But each to their own 👍
- 11,660
- GTP_Orido
You can still blip the throttle manually while braking just for the sake of it 
It can be done with ease on stick controller too, which I often did to simulate the time lost for heel & toe and throttle lift during shift up, compared to the usual auto blip/paddle shift speed.
It can be done with ease on stick controller too, which I often did to simulate the time lost for heel & toe and throttle lift during shift up, compared to the usual auto blip/paddle shift speed.You can still blip the throttle manually while braking just for the sake of it
But why would you want to do it if the sim is doing it for you?
- 28,470
- Windsor, Ontario, Canada
- Johnnypenso
- 8,642
- London
- GTP_Stotty
When using the paddles in GT6, you 'blip' (more of a 'drag') the throttle with your right foot whilst trail braking with your left foot and down changing to manage the weight transfer.
In a car that's unstable under braking/turn-in, applying throttle in this way helps maintain some weight over the rear to help stop the rear sliding.
- 1,233
- VS & 74 (France)
- GT-Alex74
Here is another video on the subject. It's a French one, sadly for most of you, but that's the one I learned with and the gestures are nicely broke down and pretty self explanatory. It comes from "Conduire... Piloter" by jean Michel Fabre, a recognized instructor, and this movie / book (more detailed) is considered as the driver's graal.
Now, here's a training method I would suggest for people wanting to learn heel and toe.
Before everything, always remember to have a good driving position. Regarding the pedals, you should be able to press fully the clutch pedal without any extension from your left foot : you have to be able to push that pedal just relying on your leg. Also, your right heel should always face the brake pedal, and never rest in front of the accel pedal. If you wondered why accel pedals where not straight, that's the reason.
Also, always keep nice safety distances with the others road users, especially when you're in the learning process.
Step 1 :
- Learn to rev-match your engine when shifting down, without releasing the clutch in neutral for now. Don't do this while braking for the moment, or release the brake pedal if you're in safe conditions and not in urge to stop. When you are able to bring the revs to match what they would be on the inferior gear at that speed, you're good to try the next step.
Step 2 :
- You can now try to rev-match while braking. Keep that in safe conditions and when there's nobody right behind, though. You'll have to learn to keep a constant pressure on the brakes while rev-matching. You can go with the classic ankle move, or just use the side of your toe if it's more practical for you / with that car.
- When you're not braking, try to release the clutch pedal when the shifter is in neutral, rev-match, and then kick back the clutch pedal to engage your gear. You first have to learn to synchronize the moves, then try to do it quicker. In the end, the aim is not to lose too much revs between the moment you hit the accel and the moment when the gear is fully engaged with the clutch released.
Step 3 : now try to put all that stuff together. Take your time and think, you'll get quicker soon enough if you practice in everyday driving. It took me a couple of months after my driving licence to get it right and executed fast enough, but don't be discouraged if you need more time to learn. Patience is safety's mother.
Now, here's a training method I would suggest for people wanting to learn heel and toe.
Before everything, always remember to have a good driving position. Regarding the pedals, you should be able to press fully the clutch pedal without any extension from your left foot : you have to be able to push that pedal just relying on your leg. Also, your right heel should always face the brake pedal, and never rest in front of the accel pedal. If you wondered why accel pedals where not straight, that's the reason.
Also, always keep nice safety distances with the others road users, especially when you're in the learning process.
Step 1 :
- Learn to rev-match your engine when shifting down, without releasing the clutch in neutral for now. Don't do this while braking for the moment, or release the brake pedal if you're in safe conditions and not in urge to stop. When you are able to bring the revs to match what they would be on the inferior gear at that speed, you're good to try the next step.
Step 2 :
- You can now try to rev-match while braking. Keep that in safe conditions and when there's nobody right behind, though. You'll have to learn to keep a constant pressure on the brakes while rev-matching. You can go with the classic ankle move, or just use the side of your toe if it's more practical for you / with that car.
- When you're not braking, try to release the clutch pedal when the shifter is in neutral, rev-match, and then kick back the clutch pedal to engage your gear. You first have to learn to synchronize the moves, then try to do it quicker. In the end, the aim is not to lose too much revs between the moment you hit the accel and the moment when the gear is fully engaged with the clutch released.
Step 3 : now try to put all that stuff together. Take your time and think, you'll get quicker soon enough if you practice in everyday driving. It took me a couple of months after my driving licence to get it right and executed fast enough, but don't be discouraged if you need more time to learn. Patience is safety's mother.
JogoAsobi
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- 2,578
The driver in the video Gan-San (Motoharu Kurosawa) 7:56 time is listed here:
List of Nurburgring Nordschleife Lap times/Production, Street-Legal Vehicles
Although, the tires aren't specified, other production cars with similar times list sports tires.
I re-watched the video, no reference was made to tire type in Japanese (spoken & written).
OT trivia, he was over 60 when he did that run!
Car was stock NA2.
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- 8,705
On the subject of throttle and brake overlap, for stability, I want to point out something subtle I noticed in that Senna NSX vid.
Notice immediately at 130R (first corner on West circuit) how he keeps some throttle on whilst braking at turn in. He does it on almost every corner, but it's most obvious at the hairpin. Potentially less need to flap around with left foot braking if you can master that.
On the subject of gearbox types and controls, this lap by Tsuchiya-san in a sequential equipped car is illuminating. It's very similar to a motorcycle gearbox, it would seem.
Quick laps start at 4:25 ish.
Something fun to try is a heavy 4WD with H-pattern on a snowy surface. I had a lot of fun in the RS6 provided as a test car on the Alaska course maker theme in GT5. It is most beneficial to switch between left and right foot braking, and the low grip and high weight help to slow things down for learning.
EDIT: you need to disable ABS to get the benefit of throttle / brake overlap in a rally context, especially for FWDs.
Great thread, by the way! 👍
Notice immediately at 130R (first corner on West circuit) how he keeps some throttle on whilst braking at turn in. He does it on almost every corner, but it's most obvious at the hairpin. Potentially less need to flap around with left foot braking if you can master that.
On the subject of gearbox types and controls, this lap by Tsuchiya-san in a sequential equipped car is illuminating. It's very similar to a motorcycle gearbox, it would seem.
Quick laps start at 4:25 ish.
Something fun to try is a heavy 4WD with H-pattern on a snowy surface. I had a lot of fun in the RS6 provided as a test car on the Alaska course maker theme in GT5. It is most beneficial to switch between left and right foot braking, and the low grip and high weight help to slow things down for learning.
EDIT: you need to disable ABS to get the benefit of throttle / brake overlap in a rally context, especially for FWDs.
Great thread, by the way! 👍
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- 891
- Rio
- LeoStrop
I believe it would be CM for that car. You can try this one:
Buy a NSX S-Zero and see how close you get to the real time, with CS and CM. Also, good foot work from Nakaya.
Best Motoring, is the best thing you can watch to understand Heel & Toe. I think there is one episode dedicated to H&T, i will look for it and reply, if i find it.
Meanwhile, more art classes with different race cars (jump to 31:20):
JogoAsobi
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- 2,578
No, road legal sports tires should be in between CM and CS. SH tires would fit more in the range of semi-slick tires such as the AD08 R
Guys thanks for clarifying this for @ccaranna! 👍
I have updated my post and crossed out SH tires.
@GT_Alex74, @LeoStrop, thanks for the videos, valeu!
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- 28,470
- Windsor, Ontario, Canada
- Johnnypenso
I noticed in the 09' Bathurst video with McConville he sometimes taps the brakes while accelerating in the rain. I presume this is to control excessive wheelspin in the rain? You see it at 1:10 and 1:26 for example.
- 891
- Rio
- LeoStrop
This is something i see all the time, and is not only in the wet, but in any circumstance. I can't tell you exactly why they do that, but i am almost sure it has something to do with "knock back", when the pads move away from the disc brakes and cause a little dead spot, when the drivers hit the brakes. So they correct it, by taping the brakes a little bit earlier from the braking point. It could be also for brake pressure, so you tap the brakes to have a better feel on the pedal.
But it don't have nothing to do with traction, or slowing the car down. It's only for preparing the brakes for the next corner.
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- 11,660
- GTP_Orido
Nakaya-san from Best Motoring often do that when racing or time trial, left foot tap on the brakes - often on the straight, usually pretty close to the next braking point. I actually do that as well when the brakes are cold ( morning or rain ) - even on the street It also helps to use left foot brake just to be smoother reducing speed ( instead of lifting off throttle )
It also helps to use left foot brake just to be smoother reducing speed ( instead of lifting off throttle )
- 8,705
Tapping the brake pedal gives you an early warning of persistent fade, too. Still spongy after most of the straight? Brake a bit earlier.
On my bike, I sometimes have to "pump up" the rear brake before first setting off, as all the parts settle in a different position once cooled (fluid contraction).
On my bike, I sometimes have to "pump up" the rear brake before first setting off, as all the parts settle in a different position once cooled (fluid contraction).
- 174
- USA
- matilda1234
@JogoAsobi, thank you for this post. I just found it and can't wait to watch all the videos. Way back when, I learned to double-clutch in a '67 Spitfire (no 1st gear synchro), but have never been good with heel-toe. I guess partly I thought I would mess up my trans attempting to learn. But, I still have one manual left so it's never too late. As an aside, it saddens me that manuals are slowly (or not so slowly) going the way of the Dodo.
- 696
- Ibicaraí, Bahia - Brasil
- IrwingBR
In GT6 there is clutch simulation?
I tried with my T300RS and T500 pedals and the clutch didn't worked. Tried to find on the options if i can turn it on someplace but i found nothing.
However, i don't have the the shiffter yet(almost here!), but... can you guys tell me if there's the option to use the clutch in GT6? I know that in GT5 i can...
I tried with my T300RS and T500 pedals and the clutch didn't worked. Tried to find on the options if i can turn it on someplace but i found nothing.
However, i don't have the the shiffter yet(almost here!), but... can you guys tell me if there's the option to use the clutch in GT6? I know that in GT5 i can...
- 8,705
First you need a car with which the game allows the use of clutching and direct selection of gears.
Try something you know has a h-pattern in real life, and leave it stock. Changing the gearbox will likely cause the game to treat it as a sequential, and you will not be able to use the clutch.
To enable the clutch, you start driving and simply dip the clutch. You have to do that every time you start a driving "session".
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