Computer Freezes, Sometimes Won't Even Post!

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Robin

Robin

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United Kingdom
United Kingdom
I don’t know why but it seems computers are dropping like flies in my house at the moment! First my laptop went now it’s my PC. It’s a home build from 2005, AMD Athlon 64 3200 running Windows 7 x64 Pro.

One day came back into the room to find Windows was frozen, mouse cursor not even moving and no hard drive activity. Had to turn it off with the power button, rebooted and it was fine and worked for another day.

Next day it froze again, this time when I rebooted the motherboard wouldn’t even post (blank screen) and since then most of the time it won't even post, if it does it will either display a CMOS checksum error then freeze or it will make it in to Windows only to freeze a few minutes later either with or without a BSOD saying MACHINE_CHECK_EXCEPTION (which signifies a hardware fault).

Things I have so far tried…..

- Different ram sticks in different orders, re-seated graphics card, unplugged and reconnected all cables, different cables & connection orders, different hard drive with an XP install, new CMOS battery, cleared CMOS with jumper, different fans.

…. All made no difference (still freezes) so I can assume those aren’t at fault.

Things I can’t currently try (don’t have spares)….

- Different graphics card, different PSU.

I have a feeling it’s the PSU because there’s a slight electric smell from its fan, it makes faint electrical high pitched noises as the power draw fluctuates and when I opened it up I noticed one capacitor looks like its going bad (see pictures below, the white stuff on the side is just thermal glue). That might be why Windows freezes at random because the draw gets higher and the hard drive / mobo looses power.

21355488.jpg
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Problem is I don’t know for certain that it’s at fault, it could be the mobo or the graphics card that’s busted. I don’t really want to buy a new PSU and find I doesn’t solve it so I was wondering what your thoughts are on the problem or if there are any other suggestions to try.

I would appreciate any help, thanks,

Robin.
 
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What model is the PSU. Seeing the capacitor that way I would say the problem is the power supply.
 
Yes I tried setting the CMOS jumper many times, all it did was reset the time and date. I can't remember the PSU brand because I removed the side sticker years ago but its nothing fancy, just an OEM 380W power supply which has been very reliable over its lifetime.

Is there anyway to just replace the one capacitor or is it better to get a new PSU?
 
Robin.
Yes I tried setting the CMOS jumper many times, all it did was reset the time and date. I can't remember the PSU brand because I removed the side sticker years ago but its nothing fancy, just an OEM 380W power supply which has been very reliable over its lifetime.

Is there anyway to just replace the one capacitor or is it better to get a new PSU?
Click to expand...

Get a new PSU.. Don't waste your time on that. If you feel like wasting money on getting the right capacitor, de-soldering it, soldering a new one in and hoping it works. Go right on ahead, but the time spent on that isn't worth it if you ask me. Just give up the cash and get a decent 400-450w PSU and be done with it.
 
Are there any particular brands you would recommend? I was also wondering if 'own brand' ones are any good (like Aria and Novatech (the UK equivalents of newegg) have self branded OEM ones). I'm not looking to get anything fancy as its a 7 year old PC now and I just want to get it working.
 
My computer runs on a 600watt psu by Silverstone so they seem fine. I've also worked with Antec power supplies before and I've seen them be very reliable. You could get it an Antec NEO ECO 400W PSU. It would be great to use for the old computer and it has been powering my parent's computer for the past year without a problem.
 
Robin.
Are there any particular brands you would recommend? I was also wondering if 'own brand' ones are any good (like Aria and Novatech (the UK equivalents of newegg) have self branded OEM ones). I'm not looking to get anything fancy as its a 7 year old PC now and I just want to get it working.
Click to expand...

In that range you're likely to find many cheap OEM-type brands or "ECO" PSU's. Mainly you should be looking for one that meets or exceeds your power needs, as well as has the correct amount and type of plugs. After that, it doesn't really matter. Look at the reviews for them and see which one has the best reliability.

There really isn't much way to go "wrong" with buying one unless its from a company you've never heard of. Personally, I go for what works, what will be the most versatile if anything changes, and the one that has the nicest warranty. This is a list of PSU Manufacturer's that I would be willing to fork out a decent chunk of cash for. Anything from this list will do fine.
Code: 
[LIST]
[*]Cooler Master
[*]Diablotek
[*]Enermax
[*]Mushkin Enhanced
[*]NZXT
[*]OCZ Technology
[*]Raidmax
[*]Silverstone
[*]XClio
[*]Thermaltake
[*]Rosewill
[*]Corsair
[*]SeaSonic USA
[*]Antec
[*]CoolMax
[/LIST]
 
Picture is not clear enough to know but that could be just thermal paste.

Freezing at post is normally HDD that is toast.
 
Diablotek? You seriously recommend that company? Not even being able to do 50% of what it's advertised to do is not good at all as I quote from the site, "It kind of goes without saying that the Diablotek PHD650 is a giant steaming pile of crap." Nor could CoolMax provide the power it was advertised to give you. 5V regulation failed on test 4 and then 12V failed with 5V on test 8. A 500watt PSU that can only give you 161watts stable is very sad indeed.

Quote from site: "The Coolmax V-500 is a textbook example of why you should not buy a USD 20 power supply. Its inability of delivering its labeled wattage is not its worst problem. It presents lousy efficiency between 66.8% and 77.1%, its voltages are out of range, and noise and ripple levels are above the maximum allowed. A perfect weapon of mass destruction. Stay away."
 
I have a thermaltake toughpower 750w.

But seeing as the PSU is over 5+ years old I would say change it to a newer one.
Or just make a newer PC if you can with new hardware.
 
nick09
Diablotek? You seriously recommend that company? Not even being able to do 50% of what it's advertised to do is not good at all as I quote from the site, "It kind of goes without saying that the Diablotek PHD650 is a giant steaming pile of crap." Nor could CoolMax provide the power it was advertised to give you. 5V regulation failed on test 4 and then 12V failed with 5V on test 8. A 500watt PSU that can only give you 161watts stable is very sad indeed.

Quote from site: "The Coolmax V-500 is a textbook example of why you should not buy a USD 20 power supply. Its inability of delivering its labeled wattage is not its worst problem. It presents lousy efficiency between 66.8% and 77.1%, its voltages are out of range, and noise and ripple levels are above the maximum allowed. A perfect weapon of mass destruction. Stay away."
Click to expand...
Lets just pick one PSU Manufacturer from that whole entire list why don't we?


Let's ALSO pick out PSU's in the 20$ range and just see how much "performance" we can get out of them when everyone and their mother knows that they're going to be placed in simple computers with simple power needs. Yeah, makes sense. Lots of it.
 
Errr... The Diablotek PHD650 sells for $47 on Newegg. That is not a $20 PSU. My point was that they could not provide the stated power output on the PSU when tested. Even if you think the CoolMax V-500 is meant for a old computer, 161watts instead of the advertised 500 is real bull. That's for the whole system from 3.3V to 12V. Even a 7 year old computer needs more room than that.
 
bergauk
Let's ALSO pick out PSU's in the 20$ range and just see how much "performance" we can get out of them when everyone and their mother knows that they're going to be placed in simple computers with simple power needs. Yeah, makes sense. Lots of it.
Click to expand...

You said to mainly look for a power supply that meets or exceeds power needs. Well when it can't provide half the rated power there is a problem. It's better to get a quality lower-rated PSU than some cheap unit rated at hundreds of watts over what it can handle.

Coolmax I wouldn't touch with a 10 yard stick. I haven't seen a positive review, from someone who knows how to test, on any of their power supplies. You can't throw a blanket statement for most of the manufacturers you listed.
 
nick09
Errr... The Diablotek PHD650 sells for $47 on Newegg. That is not a $20 PSU. My point was that they could not provide the stated power output on the PSU when tested. Even if you think the CoolMax V-500 is meant for a old computer, 161watts instead of the advertised 500 is real bull. That's for the whole system from 3.3V to 12V. Even a 7 year old computer needs more room than that.
Click to expand...

So you managed to find bad reviews. Maybe you missed the rest of my post where I suggested the other manufacturers? Maybe you didn't even read my post. Or maybe you just don't read at all. Could be any one of those.

Read the rest of my post. I never said anything about HAVING TO BUY A PSU from Diablotek or Coolmax.

Stop skimming over posts. It's really annoying.
 
Then why did you suggest those two companies in the list you've made yourself? I'll quote what you said before your list, "This is a list of PSU Manufacturer's that I would be willing to fork out a decent chunk of cash for. Anything from this list will do fine."

Good luck powering the family PC with a Diablotek PHD650!!!
 
Most power supplies come with 20+4pin connectors so they can be used in older computers with a 20pin connector.
 
nick09
Then why did you suggest those two companies in the list you've made yourself? I'll quote what you said before your list, "This is a list of PSU Manufacturer's that I would be willing to fork out a decent chunk of cash for. Anything from this list will do fine."

Good luck powering the family PC with a Diablotek PHD650!!!
Click to expand...

I didn't make it. It's a list from Newegg, tailored down to more notable companies. But way to miss the big picture.
 
In the future please add a note to the lists you post online were stolen from someone else. Thank you very much.
 
nick09
In the future please add a note to the lists you post online were stolen from someone else. Thank you very much.
Click to expand...

In the future I won't do anything like that because it doesn't matter.

I altered the manufacturer list to more notable companies, I'm sorry that you think that its such a travesty to do such a thing. But I'd rather not go and think up by memory every PSU Manufacturer. You can go right ahead and do that if you want though.
 
Kinda helps when you know what kind of brands to use instead of relying on some list from the internet. Plus you have not edited your list yet.
 
nick09
Kinda helps when you know what kind of brands to use instead of relying on some list from the internet. Plus you have not edited your list yet.
Click to expand...

You think I RELY on that list? No, I'm knowledgeable to the point where customers, and people I've worked with do not question my choices when I assemble builds. You, you're the only person that questions my choices. You constantly attack my posts for some reason. I'm not trying to make you look bad, so why are you trying to make me look bad?

Have this.

12742865.jpg
 
bergauk
You think I RELY on that list? No, I'm knowledgeable to the point where customers, and people I've worked with do not question my choices when I assemble builds. You, you're the only person that questions my choices. You constantly attack my posts for some reason. I'm not trying to make you look bad, so why are you trying to make me look bad?
Click to expand...

So you resort to personal attacks because you were proven wrong? Just face it. Some of the companies you listed you would trust make absolute garbage. They should only be recommended for very low budget builds.
 
ROAD_DOGG33J
So you resort to personal attacks because you were proven wrong? Just face it. Some of the companies you listed you would trust make absolute garbage. They should only be recommended for very low budget builds.
Click to expand...

So a 400w PSU doesn't count as a low budget build? It's going into a computer that should have been recycled years ago.

I haven't resorted to attacking without being pushed to it. I'm sick and tired of him attacking me and picking apart everything I post in this section. I've tried my best to stay out of it, but it's come to a point where I'm tired of defending my posts. 👎
 

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