Computer Freezes, Sometimes Won't Even Post!

[ROAD_DOGG33J]

So a 400w PSU doesn't count as a low budget build? It's going into a computer that should have been recycled years ago.

When you buy from a company like Coolmax, your 400w supply will most likely be a 200-270w supply. When that's the case, personally I would not even bother with the company or put it on any list.

 

[nick09]

So a 400w PSU doesn't count as a low budget build? It's going into a computer that should have been recycled years ago.

And that same recycled computer could be donated to a needy family who can't afford a computer. And yet I never made any such pictures as a form of attack against you.

 

[Infinital-NG]

Your capacitor is bubble'ing(spelling/grammar.) Caps should be flat, and that one is starting to rise.

Bad caps can usually be fixed by a TV repair place. They should have the materials do it. Now what they might charge for a 5 minute job, you'd probably be better off with a new power supply. I buy Antecs for business computers.

If that bad cap was let's say in a motherboard or something else, just replacing that cap won't always be the end of it. Especially caps that are "chained" together. Just because one has gone bad doesn't mean the rest in that "chain" aren't about to go bad as well. First generation athlon processors would really bad at blowing caps.

Power Supplies are VERY DANGEROUS inside, some of the larger capacitors can mess your day up big time if you discharge it on yourself.

 

[guybo]

Getting a psu is a safe bet. If it's the mobo/CPU and you need to replace the whole system, then you'll need one anyway. Get one that's higher quality over higher wattage. A lot of times a cheaper brand will claim thier part has higher peak wattage, but a better brand will actually be able to deliver more consistent higher wattage.

http://www.pcper.com/reviews has good reviews on hardware.

 

[Robin]

I never touch the internal PSU components and always wear rubber gloves.

Can someone tell me if a 2001 PSU would work in this 2005 computer?, I just want to rule out if its anything else and its the only other power supply I have. My mobo is compatible with a 20 pin PSU however this older one doesnt have the dedicated 4 pin 12V connector which clips to the ports side of the mobo.

 

[NissanSkylineN1]

Sure, why not? Just check if the pins match,

 

[Grayfox]

The +12v ATX 4/8pin connector is for new CPUs.

A older motherboard and new PSU will work even if the motherboard has 20 pins and the PSU main ATX has 24pins.

The extra 4 can normally snap off.

 

[Robin]

It's kind of complicated because my current (presumed faulty) PSU sends 20 pins to the mobo's main connector, then sends the +12V 4pin connector to an odd location top left of the mobo.... not the usual 4pin area below the main connector. I can't understand why its like that because I built it so long ago.

I havent tried plugging the faulty PSU's 4pin connector below the main connector, would that be something worth trying or will it blow up!?

Also the old 2001 PSU just has 20 pins and nothing else, would that still be enough power to get the system going?

Sorry it this doesnt make any sense, I'm trying to phase it better but probably failing!

 

[nick09]

Be best to pull up a manual for your motherboard if you are not sure.

 

[Grayfox]

Some older Mainboards that used the 20pin main ATX still had a 4pin aux ATX for the CPU.

My mainboard has the 8 pin for CPU and the normal 24pin ATX connector.

The 4pin called "P4" was made for Intel Pentium 4 CPU during the ATX 1.1 design.

When ATX 2.0 came out you had the 24-pin main ATX connector so your mainboard is pre-ATX 2.0.

Any new PSU will work as they are ment to be backwards compatible but some things may not work.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATX

Look up the changes.

Personally I would recommend a new mainboard, CPU, Videocard, RAM when you are getting a PSU.

 

[Robin]

But my mobo has a 24pin main connector AND a 4pin AUX connector, thats why its confusing me as to which slot that 4 pin connector should go in or whether it can do without it entirely (to use the old PSU).

http://www.ecs.com.tw/ECSWebSite/Pr...ilID=493&DetailName=Feature&MenuID=24&LanID=9

 

[NissanSkylineN1]

The AUX connector might be the CPU connector..

 

[Grayfox]

That has the standard 24pin ATX and the P4 connector

The main atx connector has a small detachable 4 pin connection for older pre ATX 2.0 boards that had a 20pin ATX

The P4 connector is separate from the others.

This picture shows how the 4 pin part can be removed from the ATX connector to make it a 20 instead of a 24pin.

 

[Robin]

I'm starting to get it now! sorry for sounding noobish.

So the P4 connector must NOT be plugged into the +4pin area because its nothing to do with it right? In theory it shouldnt even fit.

What's the P4 slot doing on my mobo then? whats its purpose and do you even need to plug the PSU into it?

 

[Grayfox]

I don't even know if the P4 connector will fit into the ATX connector but I wouldn't even attempt it since both of the P4 power lines are +12V.

The P4 connector is extra power for the CPU, the P4 connector can pump out a large amount of amps which is needed by the CPU.

Modern day CPUs run at 1.2V and use 90~120watts which means they need 75~100 amps of clean good power.

 

[Infinital-NG]

The sockets on your motherboard should be grooved a different way so a different plug cannot be plugged into the wrong spot.

Just tried it, and no the 4-pin 12V(Yellow/Black) connector that usually goes by the CPU will not plug into the 24 pin socket on your motherboard.

Some older motherboards do not have that 4-pin spot by the cpu.

 

[Robin]

Thanks for having a look and trying it out, at least I know what NOT to plug it in to!

Finally I have to find out if my mobo will boot without the P4 connector attached. Some mobo's will and some won't depending on the power requirements.

If it does then I can use my old PSU (20 pin only) rule out any other components being faulty and buy a new PSU.

 

[Grayfox]

No new motherboard will post without a P4 connector not even if they are using cheap and nasty hardware like basic RAM and a Intel Celeron and this is based on my experience since I work as a PC techy.

 

[Robin]

Well thats me stuffed then!

Unless the old PSU has a P4 connector, will have to open up the old PC and have a look.

 

[Infinital-NG]

How old was your PSU?

It should have a P4 connector.

 

[Robin]

How old was your PSU?

It should have a P4 connector.

2001, so touch and go as to whether it has it because the Pentium 4 came out around the same time.

Also I think its an old skool linear PSU (not switching) because if I remember it weighs a ton and has big transformers in it!

 

[Infinital-NG]

Yeah it might not have the 4-pin 12V, but I'm confused.

You need a new power supply? yes?

Have you bought one?

 

[Robin]

Yeah it might not have the 4-pin 12V, but I'm confused.

You need a new power supply? yes?

Have you bought one?

Its true, to most sane people this would be confusing!

Basically I want to totally rule out that its the PSU at fault, to do that I need to test another PSU and the only one I got is from 2001. Sure I could just go and buy a new PSU but I would be pissed if it doesnt solve the problem.

The slightly corroded capcitor might not be whats causing the problem, for all I know its been like that for years and worked fine.

I just checked the old PSU and no it doesnt have the P4 connector.

 

[Infinital-NG]

Your current power supply, the one with the blown cap on it, is going to fail if it hasn't already.

You'd need a new power supply anyway.

How quickly does your computer fail on it's current power supply? not the old one.

Just buy one that has a fair return policy. Hook the new PSU up, see how it fares, if it doesn't fix it, take it back to where you got it, and tell them it didn't work with your motherboard or some story.

Yeah you might get store credit since it was opened, but your current PSU needs to be replaced.

A faulty power supply could send higher than needed voltage to motherboard or drives and cause more damage.

 

[Robin]

Does anyone know if MOLEX to P4 (ATX12V) converters are safe to use?

How quickly does your computer fail on it's current power supply? not the old one.

It varies, sometimes the comp won't even post, sometimes it gets to the bios then freezes and sometimes it will reach the windows loading screen or the desktop then freeze. Its different every time but always freezes in the end.

Robin.

 

[Spike125]

Hey

Check your manual, but many boards have beside the ATX connector other connectors if additional power is required for e.g. overclocking.
A blown capacitor on the MB can very much affect the PC, depending on what lanes are connected there the fault can be very randomly.
In my experience hanging in the POST screen and under windows can be a RAM problem (very easy to test with the intergrated function in Windows 7).
Hanging after the POST while starting windows or loading the bootfile could be HDD (also many good free tools available).
Regarding the PSU, it could generate hangs, but you could for example disconnect all drives and see if the bios or a program from a boot disc run fault free.

 

[Infinital-NG]

His bad cap is in the power supply.

Robin,

Never used one of those adapters (molex-->12VATX) but I would guess it's fine. Are you doing this to test with your old power supply?

 

[Grayfox]

Should be fine as long as the molex 12v can provide the amps.

 

[nick09]

Does anyone know if MOLEX to P4 (ATX12V) converters are safe to use?

Isn't one of those pins supposed to be 5V? There is only one 12V pin in a molex cable with another 5V wire and two ground wires.

 

[Robin]

Check your manual, but many boards have beside the ATX connector other connectors if additional power is required for e.g. overclocking.
A blown capacitor on the MB can very much affect the PC, depending on what lanes are connected there the fault can be very randomly.
In my experience hanging in the POST screen and under windows can be a RAM problem (very easy to test with the intergrated function in Windows 7).
Hanging after the POST while starting windows or loading the bootfile could be HDD (also many good free tools available).
Regarding the PSU, it could generate hangs, but you could for example disconnect all drives and see if the bios or a program from a boot disc run fault free.

I've already checked the mobo, memory and hard drives. The only thing I haven't checked is the graphics card but its unlikely to be problem so its the PSU.

Never used one of those adapters (molex-->12VATX) but I would guess it's fine. Are you doing this to test with your old power supply?

Yeah I think its worth a shot, once I try the old one and find (hopefully) the problems gone I'l be out PSU shopping.

Should be fine as long as the molex 12v can provide the amps.

Yeah I heard about the amps thing, fingers crossed this doesnt end up in smoke!

Isn't one of those pins supposed to be 5V? There is only one 12V pin in a molex cable with another 5V wire and two ground wires.

The pin on the far left is the 5V which is not connected, the 2 black cables are negative and the 12V pin is split in two.