CREDIT GRIND - WTC 600 Tokyo Express - Glitches are Dead.

  • Thread starter Grimm6Jack
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The glitch still works keep same transmission setting then set both power limiters to 90% then add 3 ballast then boom 594 pp
Oh my gosh you're my hero!!! It works again! Back to the grind! Take that Kaz!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

edit: Holy cow whatever PD did made the car even more lethal, the Tomahawk is blasting past 350mph on the straightaway where before the patch I was topping out at 320mph lol this is insane
 
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You can also use SS tyres as well. Got mine down to 583PP.
Personally, I prefer the SS for its grip and longevity on Tokyo's wet track, seems to have the best balance.
Gonna try and see if I can get the PP closer to 600.
And so the grind resumes...
C'mon Tomahawk, slap on some new rubber, we've got work to do!
The difference between SS and RH on my 1.12 setup is a 5 or 6 in third gear. I much prefer SS.
 
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For those like me who likes to use the slower and tamer original version , you can try this.
Slower but easier to go around the track. Fuel map 5 no refuel needed. No tyre change needed. You will have last 2 laps to push FM1 to hit your fastest lap.
Total runtime around 18mins.

Edit: Added two new snapshot with a lighter car settings.
 

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There's an easy way to "fix" this, don't allow those ridiculous concept cars into paying events. Easy. 🤷‍♂️😜
Says someone who most likely got gold on all the licenses and all of the circuit experience and all of the missions in week one. Let me remind you, we don’t all have that easy of a time. Some of us are only capable of bronze after very hard work while others are silver and bronze drivers.

There have always been grind races in every GT game.

Not having an increased payout for getting silver in circuit experience, is a GLITCH!!! Or, a slap in the face, depending on how you want to look at it.
 
Adding a fix or patch to solve one problem can introduce other issues in the game too, especially when a particular element like PP affects ALL cars in GT7.
To be honest I can only think of a one proper way to fix this and its disabling gearbox factor. Gearbox settings shouldnt be affecting pp at all just like in Gran Turismo 6. It should only affect PP if you use manual over non-sync gearbox.
 
Oh my gosh you're my hero!!! It works again! Back to the grind! Take that Kaz!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

edit: Holy cow whatever PD did made the car even more lethal, the Tomahawk is blasting past 350mph on the straightaway where before the patch I was topping out at 320mph lol this is insane
You can get 374 mph by the first hairpin if you use DRS the whole straight. That’s how I got the Archdemon trophy.
 
You can get 374 mph by the first hairpin if you use DRS the whole straight. That’s how I got the Archdemon trophy.
I was hitting 380+ with one of the latest tunes. I haven’t played it post patch and don’t plan on doing it for a while. I am all Tomahawk’ed out. My fastest lap was 1:07 and it required maximum concentration.

I also caused millions worth of damage and am wanted by the Tokyo PD. The streets are too hot. I need to spend some time outside of the country for a bit. Time to do something less stressful like the circuit experiences.
 
I don't want to give PD ideas but
They could add a weight limit that is one pound higher than the Tomahawk can go.
Why fix it?? Its kind of a fun grind, light years better than the Xbow at BMB and I think there some that wont be able to drive this car at that track, not at least without 10 minutes of penalty every race, that kinda takes the grind out of the grind. I have only raced it about 20 times so far and still looking for my first true clean race. Found the 2100HP tune yesterday and got down to 1:08 so far, Im sure I can improve on that with practice but at what cost to a true clean race?
 
Has anyone got a post-patch setup that works with SS tyres? I'm struggling a bit with the dropoff in grip on the slick tyres

EDIT; Never mind, just messed with ballast and managed it
 
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Has anyone managed to get the Tomahawk S (Not the Tomahawk X, the road car version :)) down below 600pp? I've tried but not managed to have any luck so far.Any help would be appreciated :)
 
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I've been trying different settings, it never works. Maybe you can show me how to do them again.
Just set your transmission to the original posters then mess with ballast until it works.

Last time it was 49 ballast now its 6 anywhere from 0 to 200 could be the magic number keep trying.
 
I was thinking they would fix the glitch then I don’t have to spend so much time grinding lol… but looks like it still works so will continue the grind… im a just do 3 races a day which would payout a little under 20 million a week… im perfectly fine with that... I'll mess with the settings later tonight when I get home from work
 
To be honest I can only think of a one proper way to fix this and its disabling gearbox factor. Gearbox settings shouldnt be affecting pp at all just like in Gran Turismo 6. It should only affect PP if you use manual over non-sync gearbox.
This. I'm so pissed off that they didn't actually fix what needed fixing, which was the ridiculous notion that performance should be dictated by the transmission settings. Anyone ever hear of cars being disqualified in real life because their gears were too close together/far apart? No? Of course not, as that would be absurd. But we're going to do it in the game because there are some "slow" people that haven't figured out you need a higher final gear ratio for short/tight tracks and lower ratio for tracks with long straights. Playing to the lowest common denominator drags us all down.

I was so ready to go back and start racing Gr. 4-Gr. 1 online, but since they fixed nothing with the transmission the issue still exists on many tracks where you have to choose between a proper transmission setup, or a turbo on Gr. 3 cars, lol.

They did so well with finally fixing the weight-transfer problem RWD vehicles had too! And it feels like they actually fixed it without killing the driving dynamics, so mad kudos for getting that right. I just expected them to finally fix the PP system since they claimed that's what they were doing...

Oh well, at least we can still make over 3mil an hour!

Edit: The last tune I posted a week or so ago now works with the ballast set to 15, so it's still possible to get well over 2000hp. This one is 2285 (about perfect if you don't want to have to pit) but if you want faster lap times I just got one to work with 2500. So Just playing with ballast (only takes a few clicks for most of them) will fix any of the old setups.
 
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Has anyone got a post-patch setup that works with SS tyres? I'm struggling a bit with the dropoff in grip on the slick tyres

EDIT; Never mind, just messed with ballast and managed it
I haven't raced with the new setup after the patch, but before the patch, the trick with the tomahawk is just drive faster.

For both the quick left-right and the uphill right corners, even with completely worn slicks, as long as you are going at 240mph+(385kph) you shouldn't lack for grip.
Heck you can also make those corners at those speeds on lap 1 in slicks, if you have the nerve. lol

As to the drop off in grip on the slicks, I never experienced anything that wasn't fixable by moving the brake bias forward to compensate for the lack of turn in. I was running some pretty extreme rear toe-in, something in the 0.8 range, so my rears were pretty worn by lap 12, which was leading to a loss of carrying speed in the back half of the track.
 
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SS/IM tune in case anybody need.

Actually with RH you still only need to be very careful on T1, T2 on lap 1 and 2 (~100 km/h slide through them very slowly), and brake early on final hairpin.

The new Spa-Francorchamps 1-hour race is really great, highly recommended. (Uh, don't take Tomahawk X to it, use the Gr.1 with legit tune!)
 

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There is something 'hinky' with the PP and ballast; increase in 1kg steps and check the PP...:confused:
I started with 10, the added tick by tick. The only thing I changed about the car is adding ballast.

This. I'm so pissed off that they didn't actually fix what needed fixing, which was the ridiculous notion that performance should be dictated by the transmission settings. Anyone ever hear of cars being disqualified in real life because their gears were too close together/far apart? No? Of course not, as that would be absurd. But we're going to do it in the game because there are some "slow" people that haven't figured out you need a higher final gear ratio for short/tight tracks and lower ratio for tracks with long straights. Playing to the lowest common denominator drags us all down.

I was so ready to go back and start racing Gr. 4-Gr. 1 online, but since they fixed nothing with the transmission the issue still exists on many tracks where you have to choose between a proper transmission setup, or a turbo on Gr. 3 cars, lol.

They did so well with finally fixing the weight-transfer problem RWD vehicles had too! And it feels like they actually fixed it without killing the driving dynamics, so mad kudos for getting that right. I just expected them to finally fix the PP system since they claimed that's what they were doing...

Oh well, at least we can still make over 3mil an hour!

Edit: The last tune I posted a week or so ago now works with the ballast set to 15, so it's still possible to get well over 2000hp. This one is 2285 (about perfect if you don't want to have to pit) but if you want faster lap times I just got one to work with 2500. So Just playing with ballast (only takes a few clicks for most of them) will fix any of the old setups.
Did the thought ever occur to you that this so-called “glitch” may be intentional? It gives “the rest of us” a chance to EARN money because being a bottom feeder Bronze/Silver driver, doesn’t pay very well!

Be thankful you have the skill you do to EASILY get Gold.

I am fully aware that we are entitled to our own opinions, how about some of us start looking through the lens of someone else’s experience? If you find this “game” too easy, iRacing is waiting for you.
 

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This. I'm so pissed off that they didn't actually fix what needed fixing, which was the ridiculous notion that performance should be dictated by the transmission settings. Anyone ever hear of cars being disqualified in real life because their gears were too close together/far apart? No? Of course not, as that would be absurd. But we're going to do it in the game because there are some "slow" people that haven't figured out you need a higher final gear ratio for short/tight tracks and lower ratio for tracks with long straights. Playing to the lowest common denominator drags us all down.

I was so ready to go back and start racing Gr. 4-Gr. 1 online, but since they fixed nothing with the transmission the issue still exists on many tracks where you have to choose between a proper transmission setup, or a turbo on Gr. 3 cars, lol.

They did so well with finally fixing the weight-transfer problem RWD vehicles had too! And it feels like they actually fixed it without killing the driving dynamics, so mad kudos for getting that right. I just expected them to finally fix the PP system since they claimed that's what they were doing...

Oh well, at least we can still make over 3mil an hour!

Edit: The last tune I posted a week or so ago now works with the ballast set to 15, so it's still possible to get well over 2000hp. This one is 2285 (about perfect if you don't want to have to pit) but if you want faster lap times I just got one to work with 2500. So Just playing with ballast (only takes a few clicks for most of them) will fix any of the old setups.
Did the thought ever occur to you that this so-called “glitch” may be intentional? It gives “the rest of us” a chance to EARN money because being a bottom feeder Bronze/Silver driver, doesn’t pay very well!

Be thankful you have the skill you do to EASILY get Gold.

I am fully aware that we are entitled to our own opinions, how about some of us start looking through the lens of someone else’s experience? If you find this “game” too easy, iRacing is waiting for you.
 
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