Custom Race - how do you raise the Difficulty?

[Ayby]

What's your method of raising the difficulty in custom races?

Even on pro, with all driver aids turned off (except ABS - I can't do without "weak"), it only takes about 10 to 20 kilometers to catch up (I set myself back to 20th place) from last and win, no matter what division (and stock cars). Even with clean racing, it's mostly not much of a challenge, once you know your car and the track.

Where do you guys go from there? Reduce power ratio? Put on comfort tires?...

 

[Veinz]

race online for more difficulty.

 

[Ayby]

race online for more difficulty.

Yeah, I figured the customs races might be intentionally set up to be easy, so you'll go online.
Alas, I don't care for online racing. I'm pretty sure there are many others who don't either, and I'd like to know their way of raising custom race difficulty.

 

[snowgt]

Set opposition a couple of classes higher.

 

[Ayby]

Set opposition a couple of classes higher.

You can do that? Well, bingo! Then that's pretty much the answer, I guess. Thank you.

 

[Islaygaz]

One make and de-tune your car?? That could be challenging maybe!

 

[Ayby]

Hmm... just beat 20 Group 4 pro opponents starting from last place within 5 rounds of Tsukuba in a stock Enzo (with all aids off, ABS weak, super soft racing tires). That's 5 classes up. This shouldn't really be. I'm hardly a great driver.

One make and de-tune your car?? That could be challenging maybe!

I'll try one-make. But I was hoping for another solution than de-tune/de-power. That would dilute the raw/stock car-specific experience for me.

 

[epic_apri_39]

Hmm... just beat 20 Group 4 pro opponents starting from last place within 5 rounds of Tsukuba in a stock Enzo (with all aids off, ABS weak, super soft racing tires). That's 5 classes up. This shouldn't really be. I'm hardly a great driver.

Gr.4 isn't actually faster than most of the Group N classes, for some reason PD made the difficulty rating a little skewered.

 

[05XR8]

Gr3 and up, have faster AI. AI speed is also track dependent. Meaning, some tracks, the AI are super slow at certain turns. Bathurst(at Mcphillamy Park, AI hit the brakes) and Dragon Trail Seaside(AI slow way down at the "Swimming pool complex").

I do Grid starts mostly. Fuel/Tyre wear 1x, Heavy Damage, 10 minutes or 10 laps maximum.
My car stays stock. Racing Hards are max tyres I use for race cars.

St. Croix and Catalunya seem to offer me most competitive AI in Gr.2 and Gr.1. Try the 2008 GT500 cars, as they are slower than the new ones. No BOP.
Also, try the Group C cars in Gr1 at twisty circuits. The top speed advantage they have, gets negated.

Try shortening your race to about 3 laps. Start P20(as you are) and don't dive bomb the AI. You'll be surprised not coming 1st all the time. Have fun.

 

[Leo Thorne]

Isn’t there an option to adjust the difficulty? Like beginner, intermediate, etc...?

 

[TonyJZX]

You can set it to 'pro' and in some races you can beat n1000 in an n200 car...

 

[snowgt]

Hmm... just beat 20 Group 4 pro opponents starting from last place within 5 rounds of Tsukuba in a stock Enzo (with all aids off, ABS weak, super soft racing tires). That's 5 classes up. This shouldn't really be. I'm hardly a great driver.


I'll try one-make. But I was hoping for another solution than de-tune/de-power. That would dilute the raw/stock car-specific experience for me.

The Enzo has a huge advantage in power over Gr.4, and with the RSS tyres, it's also faster in turns against the Gr.4's RH. (and Tsukuba doesn't really play into the aero advantages of race cars).

N500 with Sports Soft is a pretty good match for Gr.4.
Or ... rule of thumb, in N-classes, go against AI with twice the power on Sports Soft. Adjust slightly to your driver level.

 

[svenvangent]

I don't know your race pace but one challenge I like to do ( and there is also a price money of 373.000 in it if you can do it clean ) is race against the AI in Premium Sport Lounge in GT League and select the RX500 Mazda N300 , now give the RX500 Mazda a boost to 349HP ( not more otherwise you will be entering the N400 class ) and make him as light as possible , also start first with soft tyres and make sure that the La Ferrari is in the race .
If you can win easily ( normally it shouldn't be that hard ) put than normal tyres under the car and be sure the La Ferrari is in the race again .
Until now best place was second on the podium for me with normal tyres and the La Ferrari in it , I saw the finish line but that Ferrari has a monster top speed in straight line dammit .

Edit ; sorry it is not super soft and than soft but start with soft and than normal tyres .

 

[Boston77]

For my daily mileage I race the old Alpine (N100) on Fisherman’s Ranch for 7 laps.
Pro difficultly, N1000 car = opponent. (Usually they put the Dodge Viper. But have faced the Nissan GTR)
Only ABS as driving aides
Nets me $376,000 with clean race bonus.
It’s the best challenge I’ve found so far.

 

[MPincombe]

Go Pro difficulty and use a Gr3 road car against Gr3 cars.

 

[svenvangent]

Soooo close to win with normal tyres and the La Ferrari in the race .
Last lap last turn before the finish line and look who is passing me just in front of the line .

 

[Ayby]

Thanks for all the suggestions! I'll look into most...

 

[Boston77]

Thanks for all the suggestions! I'll look into most...

LOL. I’ve mentioned The Alpine at Fisherman’s Ranch in another thread. It didn’t go over well either.

 

[Ayby]

LOL. I’ve mentioned The Alpine at Fisherman’s Ranch in another thread. It didn’t go over well either.

Haha. I only like to race with a wheel and sadly can't on any dirt tracks, because the internal wheel gears on the G29 grind like crazy there. So much that I'm really afraid the wheel might eventually break. If I turn torque and FFB sensitivity way down, the grinding mostly stops. But racing without any feedback and wheel resistance has no point for me. (I have torque on 10 and FFB sensitivity on 8.) A shame really. Off-roading with the G920 on Horizon works perfectly. Dirt tracks on GTS with the G29 is a gear-grindfest with torque and FFB sensitivity turned up to a meaningful level.