DASHYANKURO 15th Anniversary Edition

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Malaysia
Malaysia
#HSV-010 GT 15th Anniversary Edition
+Strike GOLD in GT500-Deep Forest - in 1st Lap!
Ride 50/50
Spring 16.00/15.50
Compression 10/10
Extension 10/10
Anti-Roll 6/7
Camber 3.4/0.0
Toe 0.00/0.00
Brake 5/5
LSD 0/10, 0/50, 0/50
Downforce 333/555

#X-BOW R 15th Anniversary Edition
Ride 60/60
Spring 7.00/14.00
Compression 10/10
Extension 10/10
Anti-Roll 1/1
Camber 4.0/0.0
Toe 0.00/0.00
Brake 5/5
LSD 0/5, 0/5, 0.5
Ballast 200kg @ -50

#SLS AMG GT3 15th Anniversary Edition
Ride 50/50
Spring 27.00/18.00
Compression 4/4
Extension 4/4
Anti-Roll 4/4
Camber 6.2/0.0
Toe 0.00/0.00
Brake 8/8
LSD 0/10, 0/50, 0/50
Downforce 380/888

#Megane Trophy V6 15th Anniversary Edition
Ride 55/65
Spring 16.6616.00
Compression 5/5
Extension 5/5
Anti-Roll 5/7
Camber 3.5/0.0
Toe 0.00/0.00
Brake 5/5
LSD 0/15, 0/11, 0/15

#Huayra 15th Anniversary Edition
Ride 55/60
Spring 11.11/10.00
Compression 5/7
Extension 5/7
Anti-Roll 5/7
Camber 6.0/0.0
Toe 0.00/0.00
Brake 6/6
LSD 0/13, 0/15, 0/15

#Scirocco GT24 15th Anniversary Edition
Ride 55/60
Spring 14.00/13.00
Compression 4/4
Extension 4/4
Anti-Roll 3/7
Camber 0.0/2.0
Toe 0.00/0.00
Brake 5/5
LSD 15/0, 50/0, 50/0
Downforce 150/222

#IS F Racing Concept 15th Anniversary Edition
Ride 35/40
Spring 15.00/14.00
Compression 4/5
Extension 4/5
Anti-Roll 4/5
Camber 5.0/0.0
Toe 0.00/0.00
Brake 7/7
LSD 0/5, 0/16, 0/8
Downforce 333/555
Top Speed 300kmph

#GT40 Mark I 15th Anniversary Edition
Ride 66/66
Spring 10.66/6.66
Compression 6/6
Extension 6/6
Anti-Roll 6/6
Camber 6.6/0.0
Toe 0.00/0.00
Brake 6/6
LSD 0/15, 0/6, 0/6
Ballast 200 @ -50

#Corvette Coupe (C2) 15th Anniversary Edition
Ride 100/100
Spring 12.00/4.00
Compression 1/1
Extension 1/1
Anti-Roll 4/2
Camber 7.0/0.0
Toe 0.00/0.00
Brake 6/6
LSD 0/15, 0/58, 0/42

#BMW Z8 15th Anniversary Edition
Ride 88/88
Spring 11.20/11.90
Compression 8/2
Extension 8/2
Anti-Roll 7/1
Camber 8.0
Toe 0.00/0.88
Brake 4/4
LSD 0/8, 0/51, 0/49

#86 GT 15th Anniversary Edition
Ride 75/86
Spring 9.78/8.60
Compression 8/6
Extension 8/6
Anti-Roll 1/1
Camber 2.0/0.0
Toe 0.00/0.00
Brake 5/5
LSD 0/15, 0/53, 0/47

#Cobra Daytona Coupe 15th Anniversary Edition
Ride 77/77
Spring 14.29/10.62
Compression 4/4
Extension 4/4
Anti-Roll 4/4
Camber 7.0/0.0
Toe 0.00/0.00
Brake 5/5
LSD 0/15, 0/50, 0/50
Downforce 333/555

#V16T 15th Anniversary Edition
Ride 55/55
Spring 14.44/9.11
Compression 3/3
Extension 3/3
Anti-Roll 3/3
Camber 6.0/0.0
Toe 0.00/0.00
Brake 6/6
LSD 0/15, 0/44, 016
Ballast 200 @ -50

#R18 TDI 15th Anniversary Edition
+This is not a Red Bull, it's a Blue Bull!
Ride 55/55
Spring 22.00/16.00
Compression 4/4
Extension 4/4
Anti-Roll 4/4
Camber 8.0/0.0
Toe 0.00/0.00
Brake 8/8
LSD 0/15, 0/51, 0/49
Downforce 555/777

#Focus ST 15th Anniversary Edition
Ride 65/77
Spring 12.34/10.00
Compression 3/3
Extension 3/3
Anti-Roll 3/3
Camber 0.0/2.0
Toe 0.00/0.00
Brake 4/4
LSD 0/15, 0/54, 0/46

#Europa S.2 15th Anniversary Edition
Ride 65/65
Spring 5.55/2.22
Compression 10/10
Extension 10/10
Anti-Roll 1/1
Camber 10.0/1.0
Toe 0.00/0.00
Brake 2/2
LSD 0/15, 0/10, 0/5
Ballast 60 @ -50
Top Speed 220kmph

#Sport quattro S1 Rally Car 15th Anniversary Edition
Ride 86/86
Spring 18.61/11.51
Compression 4/4
Extension 4/4
Anti-Roll 4/4
Camber 2.2/0.7
Toe 0.00/0.00
Brake 5/5
LSD 0/15, 0/50, 0/50
Downforce 111/333

ZZZ

#STRATOS 15th Anniversary Edition
#A110 1600S 15th Anniversary Edition
#Ford Shelby GT500 15th Anniversary Edition
 
Tuning is always subjective to ur driving style or tools, this setting meant for Full Upgrade Maximum Power u can gain. Only for some player that concern about 0.001 sec difference.

Try beat ur own time. or Try get Gold on GT500 Deep Forest ON THE FIRST LAP. And compare the effectivity using Datalog. Be my guest.

What's silly are;

1. Putting weight ballast on car while the Suspension can take the load.
2. Lower Power Percentage when the car is too fast u can't control.
3. Putting any number on Toe Setting that will make Power Transfer taken at angled, thus losing tiny amount of power.
4. Putting Maximum Downforce.
5. Not using the Stage-3 Turbo, just because u cant handle the force.
6. Putting Higher Spring Rate at the back, while Engine Load is on the Front.
7. Using the same method of setting on FR, FF, RR, MR.

But all after all, every car has their own characteristic which might be special cased. Anything goes.
Don't really care if u use the setting anyway..
 
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THE CAMBER SETTING IS NOT BROKEN!

It's the basic Physics that 0.0 Camber will deliver Maximum Engine Transfer plus giving Maximum Grip to Tyre and Road. It's been that way since GT1! And it will always be the same Forever.

Only the question, is whether u can Control that amount of Power. The problem is u need to suit 0/0 Camber Tune every single tracks; or just lose some degree as long as u can control to as many as track possible.

This Physics that make NSX Final Super Licence is Super Hard, and Speed 12 & Viper from GT1 is Unimaginable to handle. Perhaps u need to get at least a Standard GT Super License first before u can handle certain settings.
 
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I didn't say u guys doing it wrong.. it's ur own driving style - That's obviously another story.

But, claiming the camber is broken, is just like people claiming the floor is uneven when they can't dance. Did PD said this? Where?

* I can't find the starter thread discussing on this, most of it is from tuner trials. But, learning that the Camber Setting is broken is hillariously funny..
 
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I didn't say u guys doing it wrong.. it's ur own driving style - That's obviously another story.

But, claiming the camber is broken, is just like people claiming the floor is uneven when they can't dance. Did PD said this? Where?

* I can't find the starter thread discussing on this, most of it is from tuner trials. But, learning that the Camber Setting is broken is hillariously funny..
Bring a car with camber to a FITT tuning contest, you'll see what we mean
 
Haha, it's so hard to find straight answers nowadays. OK, fine - The Camber is broken.

Let's tuning the broken camber, then.
All I can say for certain is that camber increases lap time, it can be used to modify the balance of a car by reducing grip but you will lose performance so it should only be used as a last resort or a fine tuning tool in very small quantities.

Ride height also works counter intuitively, dampers are grossly simplified and toe is a bit OP in terms of effect
 
Camber is meant to work that way. The bigger it goes, the more performance u lose. That's the trick.

Bigger camber make u corner faster, but losing time in straight line. Just like real race cars.

I remember those time we use Front Hard Tyres with Rear Soft Tyres to balance the corner entry speed. And it really works, when fron Tyre having a little less grip while maintaing powerful traction from Rear Wheels, Haha.
 
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4. Putting Maximum Downforce.

I do not agree with everything you believe, but, I don't agree with everything anyone believes so thats not a bad thing. But I agree 100% with this one.
But, as far as rear aero goes, it surprises me how many 'really great tuners' still blindly max rear aero in thier tunes. I almost want to believe it's just an automatic reaction to some of them.
Downforce, as we all know, has effectiveness that changes depending on the track your going to be racing on. Daytona, Special Stage Route X, ect., are obvious tracks that do not need maxed downforce. Although both have extreme high speed curves, and 'some' downforce IS definitely recommended just to keep your speed as high as possible without kissing the walls.
But I still see many race-car tunes designed for the other 95% of tracks automatically maxing downforce.
There are so many settings in this game that can be tweaked to remove 1/4 and 1/2 seconds off lap times, and people argue about them all the time. But these same people fighting for these milliseconds, are the same people in some cases maxing downforce. Downforce, where a range of 200-to-600 on rear for example, can mean 5-10 full seconds difference in laptimes. Simply going from full 600, down to 450, can give you 3 or 4 seconds difference, and you would be surprised how much downforce you DO NOT need to keep the cars stable in most cases.
I think everyone knows this. I believe this to be simply a forgotten and widely overlooked setting.
Good call on that one.

I am not convinced of the use of your extremely high LSD settings however, but I am not saying your wrong either. I recently had accidentally used one cars tune on the wrong car, and the LSD values were a lot higher then I normally would use on that car. I was surprised to find that the highER values not only did fine, but also opened up other freedoms while driving as well. So I am testing higher values on a few cars, but no conclusions yet.
Normally, except for drifting tuning, dirt and snow tuning, and some rare car based Braking issues, I just wouldn't use any setting over 20 on any LSD option. This has been working so far, so I guess we shall see.
 
DOWNFORCE
To add extra grip to the car; but will drag back ur car in straight line above 80kmph.
Avoiding crashing onto wall is different thing - just Brake early. Different car has different needs.

LSD
LSD technology is a physical component attached to the shaft to allow/disallow slip. Mainly, it's pushing both tyre to rotate at the same speed, so power delivery will be much more effective. So, this will effect Aggresiveness of ur car (It's obvious on LM Single Seater Cars u can feel). Nothing's wrong with the High or Low setting.

Cars too fast; u need to tame it by using Low End Setting.
Cars like Mito need High End Setting to get Aggresive.

(Using High LSD on High Speed Cars need Aggresive Driving)
 
BTW, the setting is just a BASETUNE+; which u can always add ur own Transmission Setting, Seleceted Parts, what so ever.

I just dont fancy anything than Stage3 Turbo. Which not many Tuners actually setting the car towards this direction. No point I sent u Porsche 911 GT3 to make it controllable, but u change to smaller Turbo to make it under-control. Just plain ********.

Common Sense.
 
Camber is meant to work that way. The bigger it goes, the more performance u lose. That's the trick.

Bigger camber make u corner faster, but losing time in straight line. Just like real race cars.

I remember those time we use Front Hard Tyres with Rear Soft Tyres to balance the corner entry speed. And it really works, when fron Tyre having a little less grip while maintaing powerful traction from Rear Wheels, Haha.
I'm well aware of how camber is supposed to work, its just that it doesn't work that way in the game. You don't gain cornering speed, you lose it.

You are throwing out a load of real world theories and assuming that they apply in game, take it to the track and compete with some experienced tuners and you will soon see the error of your ways.
 
It's still subjective in a way; that how u know u lose it? What's the standard of losing it or gaining it? Based on Streering Wheels? or Controller? Like when the car is going faster u tend to lose control, so camber works it's work or not? Or just u feel it's losing; so it's losing for real?

Doesn't make sense to me - provided u can't Feel the weight of the car, like a track car.
 
It's still subjective in a way; that how u know u lose it? What's the standard of losing it or gaining it? Based on Streering Wheels? or Controller? Like when the car is going faster u tend to lose control, so camber works it's work or not? Or just u feel it's losing; so it's losing for real?

Doesn't make sense to me - provided u can't Feel the weight of the car, like a track car.
I've been doing competitive tuning in this forum pretty much since launch, started off a rookie and learned my trade over time by trial and error until I was going bumper to bumper with the best this forum has to offer. Event testing is done by other people and is designed to be as unbiased as possible so you learn what really makes the difference on the track and one thing that became fairly obvious, fairly fast was that if you are running camber you are going to be off the pace even if the car feels great.
Believe me, I wish camber worked but most of the time its just slowing you down and the positive effect you might think you're gaining can be found elsewhere in the settings without the grip penalty.
 
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I use 3 numbers for camber.
0.0, 0.3, and 0.7
I don't even touch camber until the tune in my opinion is 'done'.
Then I fine tune, and if I find that I get the same or close to the same times with .3 or .7 as I did with 0.0, then I just drop it back to 0.0 and let it ride.

As far as which side to set higher or lower, I basically use the same theorys that MCH does in the guide he made.
And I do realize that the times I DO see 1/2 seconds or more using .3 and .7, could be flukes, could just be random better laps. But if I see it more then 10 laps in a row, I do keep them. But it is rare.
 
OK. Experience & time spent are always respected. So, what should be done? Set Camber 0.0/0.0?
Yeah start at 0.0/0.0 camber and tune the rest of the suspension from there, personally I drop the toe down to 0 as well when starting a build because as previously mentioned even small amounts can have a fairly profound effect on the handling characteristics of a car 👍
 
I will give the Europa tune a try at least, i have been meaning to buy one of those. 10 deg camber does seem extreme but i will give it a shot anyway, btw are these SRF tunes or just ABS1?
 
And once again...
Oh good, another "camber isn't broken, you guys are just driving it wrong" argument waiting to happen.
Who is leading the charge? Would you just please stop presuming to tell other people what to think. Let them use their own decernment.
And while we're at it explain to me how after your experiments showed nothing to support the 0/0 is faster theory (on a banked circuit and a flat one ;)), you still hold this old positon? 7 out of 7 testers ALL went faster with varying amounts and 0/0 was ALWAYS slowest. But yeah, camber is broke.....my eye. Does camber alter the angle that the tyre meets the road? Yes! Does this give more grip in the corners? Well according to the data you have...yes! Does it have a negative effect in straight line performance? Yes! (But you never saw the extra braking performance that using rear camber gives, did you?).

So what magic thing that camber is supposed to do is it which it doesn't? Oh, yes thays right...make everyone go faster across the board. Funny I've never seen that bit of information written anywhere other than here on GTP. And yet in YOUR experiments IT DID.

The only thing broken about camber in GT6 (and ride height too for that matter;)) is your perception of it. The physical changes ARE taking place and the effects CAN be dicerned. Factor in a static CASTER ANGLE and static KINGPIN ANGLE and things start to make a lot more sense. Funny thing is, all the information you have in your guide for camber is correct and works. The serious thing is, to think you can make a change that alters suspension geometry and lateral/linear grip factors, not to mention track width and the angles of roll, and not to have to revisit another setting is just pure madness.

Don't you think it's time you just admit you got into this just a little bit over your head? And while I'm at it....

Bring a car with camber to a FITT tuning contest, you'll see what we mean
You still using this argument too? Go check the archive, @Brewguy44 did a couple of months back. Looked to me like it worked out just fine ;)

OK. Experience & time spent are always respected. So, what should be done? Set Camber 0.0/0.0?
What should be done is up to you :). Exactly what works will depend on driving style but make no mistake, camber works just fine. But after having a quick glance over the post that drew all the attention, I would say most of them are quite a bit on the high side. All of my experiences show me that on cars I've tested (and there have been a lot) any more than 3.5-4 degrees is more loss than gain :) with 1-2.5 being a pretty good range on most tyre compounds (higher really only suits drift set-ups and racing tyres). But don't take my word for it, try these things for yourself and go with what works best for you 👍
 
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