Does anyone know how B-Spec mode actually works?
- Thread starter TomDrum
- 91 comments
- 20,352 views
- 961
Yes, but there is no way I am redoing Bspec to prove it.
But, if you create two bobs at the same time, and not use one of them, you will notice that their career bars should remain equal.There are a lot of questions in this thread that have been discussed and answered in older threads, but here are a few things;
- you can complete Bspec using only one Bob, I have only used one up to level 37 and he has done fine. Though I have just created a new bob (so I have a spare when the other retires), he shared the 24hr Le Mans and instantly became level 30.
- you do not need Bspec to get the All Gold trophy (proven) but you do need to reach level 40 for Platinum.
- you can complete BSpec in about 250 days, so you need another 'grind' to max out an experience bar at 500 days.
- at the higher levels you will see shaded areas appear in Bob strengths bar when he is 'down'. I suspect that shows his current performance level, but do not worry it soon returns to normal, and I therefore assume that when he is 'up' he performs above the level of his bars.
- as to more detail on the effect of using instructions in race, I leave you to search the forum.
Last edited:
- 961
- 10
- Joebob-Riggs
- Jason Leon
From what I have seen in their personality things is, if in race and they are not around what they like they mess up all the time. If you have a hot blooded guy and he is way in the lead and he is in the cool zone. he will mess up all the time. use cool guys in endurance races cause if you get ahead so far you can leave them in cool mode and they won't mess up. A tight race a hot blooded guy would be great cause he is always getting pressured. A average guy is great if you can barely lead so his bar will be about in the middle. This is what I have seen anyway. Has no one else seen it?
- 570
- Melbourne
- DominusAnderson
English Version:
Hello everyone.
I was offered to write a handbook on how fast B-Spec. I thank first of the request and I are dedicated now. I state that I have structured as a FAQ, rather than as a manual. The reason it is also nice to discover how a game, rather than blindly follow the directions of someone else. So I just wrote a "straight" key, and then each find its way into freedom.
I'm leaving this brief chat with the B-Spec mode, hoping to please and why, as many prefer to drive rather than take the "coach", some information may not be known or obvious to everyone.
I call it "chat" for writing "guides" I would not have enough seniority "driving". Most of you have in the curriculum far more miles of me.
This "talk" is a work in progress, in the sense that I will go ahead with the events and will update it with new information and / or correcting things that I have already written and I later discovered to be incorrect.
FIRST: What is? WHY DO IT?
Used primarily for three things:
1. Money! Money! Money!
2. Cars! Cars! Cars!
3. Getting to do enduro (if applicable)
... And it's fun, at least as an interlude between one race and one A-Spec.
HOW TO START
I would say to leave after doing a little 'street in person, and having taken a few cars in A-Spec. In early machines are far more powerful than those of opponents to the hope that our Pippone sfanghi somehow.
Create a single pilot, give him a big car and have him do all the races in sequence, from the Cup on Sunday. If alternating and B-Spec, you're always a little 'ahead of him, so as to give him more machines that can make up for his glaring pippaggine.
HOW MANY PILOTS CREATE
Always the minimum. On the one hand, the pilots' age ", so why risk of seeing growing old and losing two pilots apply their characteristics? The age of the former is inevitable, but the second must be ready to take his inheritance when necessary. In essence, created the second when the race I'll take, namely the fourth round (European Championship) of the extreme level. Not before, not so much need. If you want to make the races twice, go ahead with the same one that the newcomer will be faster and you spend less time.
CALM PILOT OR AGGRESSIVE?
After nearly 300 calls made, I can for '? This is the same. Rather, I noticed that my two best drivers, one is better than the high speed circuits. I thought it was due to the 5 levels of difference between the two, but then I noticed that the second is better than the first on street circuits. Will investigate.
"BUT I AM MAKING idiot?"
The pilot is an idiot. Facciamocene a reason. This is the beginning and will remain so. At each level achieved, the guy grew up in three parameters: speed, strength, physical and mental strength. All three are essential to deal with any chance of success events advanced. In particular:
- Speed is self-explanatory. Times slightly improve the level after level
- Physical strength and mental endurance of the pilot to establish a sustained effort. First, it uses physical force and then, when it drops around 30%, begins to decrease the strength of mind, in substance concentration.
When a driver is tired, it tends to make crap, but what is noteworthy is that still manages to drive in a way quite similar to what was at full strength, so do not panic if it looks dead.
What really improves a little, over the levels, is his driving skills. Sure, at level 20 if you tell him to be mostly at least tries. But often continue to beat in the machines that precede it, or slip in joints of machines from which they can not go out alone since there is never a cover. A classic example is in Indianapolis, where, with the curb totally free the pilot to overcome the outside peg away, even if the wall is held by a slower car. The result was a sharp slowdown and loss of seconds.
"SLOW DOWN, BUT WHY??"
When the pilot is in the lead in a race, maybe with a large advantage, it tends to relax. It is the index of blue and red bar on the screen. When the rider is nervous about the whole bar is red, when dozing on the blue.
When the rider is nervous, the risk is that **** face, but definitely check the best of times. The nervousness grows in general with the proximity to other machines, whether they are opponents ahead of him, that the pursuers heels or even driven in bi.
When alone, it relaxes. The pace drops too much, then go up where a person who pursues him to retrieve him.
Just give him a wake up repeatedly asking him to increase his pace because he does so, and because of the nervousness goes back to the bar.
The optimal behavior is achieved, in my opinion when the bar is about three quarters of the way towards the red end on the right. If you want to go further, consider whether it is appropriate, because the **** is always around the corner. Also, always keep the rider on the red accelerate the consumption of its energy.
"ACCELERATE! SPEED! "
I understand that they swear profusely because the driver always starts in seventh place and tends to lose a lot of land before setting out in pursuit of the first, but always give the order to speed serves no useful purpose at all.
You want proof? Take Indianapolis, for example, take the stress of telling the pilot to the maximum speed and note the time. Then do not tell him anything for a couple of laps and you will see that the same stress times remain the same.
Remember that stress is growing quickly but does not decrease as fast. A command to moderate the pace very easy to calm down the pilot. A pilot nervous and mental and physical energy consumed much faster and if, at the end starts to crap, it will destroy the wheels in no time forcing a pit stop.
"Overtaking"
Completely useless if given another command at the wrong time. "Overtaking" must be given when the pilot is attached to what precedes it. Do not think that "transcends" means "take the trail and then get a chance on the brakes" or something else equally adventurous. "Overtaking" is "transcends" and nothing else.
CHOOSING THE TIRES
On the issue of tires I noticed something that is easily definable as a bug. Take for example a race that requires max sport soft tires. If you fit something better, at last, each crossing the finish line the command "Back in the pits" will be given individually by the system. You see it next to the name of the pilot chute will see a "P" on a yellow field. If you remember to disable the command to return to each spin, the pilot will reach the end of the race and will not be disqualified for use of tires is not allowed.
Same thing for wet tires in storm situations - it happened to me at Monza. Those tires are always seen as "not allowed" and then the command will be set to return to the pits. Same procedure and same result: the driver is not disqualified. "So what do I care? I always take the soft racing tires, "you say. Wrong, for two reasons:
1) often cost more than the premium of the race, but the last levels
2) You must stay below the rider throughout the race not to bring it back to the pits
BOX
The setting back of the box is an option that you only race. You can start the test and then you find yourself groping for a bottom right "strategy box. There you can set the minimum level of energy of the driver below which there is the automatic return to the box and the type of tires for the change.
Once inside the box, in the deceleration lane, a screen that lives for 10 seconds. In it you can define, among other things, will take over as pilot at the helm and whether and how much you want to supply. If you do nothing, the pilot who takes over is what is behind the wheel after the driver currently on your list drivers (then I say something about this) and the supply will be calculated automatically if necessary. The pit stop lasted for a minimum of 25 seconds, including transit, plus all the additional time to refuel. Time that lasts a lifetime, mind you. If you want to stay in the lead after the break, accumulated at least 35 seconds ahead.
The return to the pits is in the following four cases:
- Controlled by you through the options in fast race
- Always defined by you in the "box approach" to the beginning of the race (eg 10% energy)
- Low tire
- Fuel exhaustion
so if the tires are over we go back to the pits even if the pilot has "yet.
How to recover from fatigue, this depends on how the rider is stopped. A pilot at 26 can do 20 good laps before you die, but if you refer to the track after 10 others will not make it to 20 others. I am not sure of the recovery time, I can understand if I tell you.
Another thing: the list of drivers for all of us has the strongest first, then less strong and climb down to the poor. If one were, as I tried to do I define a schedule for changing type-forte1 scarso1-forte2 scarso2-or-forte1 scarso1-scarso2-forte2 can not do it before the race, but every change I will have to change the substitution , however, also taking in mind that I wanted to set the lineup.
Why should I change it? Why I might want in an easy race to run especially the poor drivers to make them grow, and I can not do it automatically. This is in my opinion a big dick.
USE THAT MACHINE?
Do not fool ourselves. B-Spec races are fun to watch up to a point. I would say that last for less and better. At this point we risk not shoot blanks. We give our pilots a big car and he will always win, saving you time. The machines are essentially two key, which you do almost all the races.
- The Mazda Furai, which won the NR-A Roadster Cup at Amateur
- The Pagani Zonda, you win the GT World Championship of Professional level
Forge ahead and win these machines. Then from there you will almost always on the velvet.
A few exceptions to this rule.
- British Lightweight, Professional level: Since the Mini Cooper is German, here the choice is very limited. Eventually I got a Lotus Elise and finally I'm the tooth removed
- The four Italian races, which do well with the Lamborghini Gallardo (Lamborghini the two races, in fact) and the Ferrari 458 Italy F12BB or for other events
- Historic Racing Car Cup, Level Expert: Toyota 7 and lots of patience
- Like the Wind, extreme level: Toyota Minolta, in B-Spec there is nothing to be done. I tried other machines, including:
Zonda or
or Furai
or ZR1
or Veyron
or Nascar
or Ford GT
or other monsters that I did not even remember
but none work, at least in B-Spec. I know that many have passed the test with different machines, but in A-Spec. Council to do so Like the Wind in A-Spec as soon as possible and take the Minolta.
The important thing is that once built the Toyota Minolta and 7, you're in business for 90% of the races. The rider is unable able to win well with Minolta or 7, as part of the race in Monte Carlo Historic Car Racing Cup
ENDURO: pain in the ass or not?
Pain in the ass. Enough, but also very helpful.
Little money, but quick access to top-level competitions, and growth of the drivers (see note below). Usually every three enduro one level is passed to the next level. The races are won on their own so they are ideal, especially from level 26 onwards, for night sessions. At midnight the place on the track, go to sleep and the next morning received.
For now I made my first 300 km and four hours of Tsukuba and the way things are. If anything will change in the future, I will update.
OUR GROWING FAMILY
I have said to create drivers when needed, and not before. The reason is to avoid old age and put a lot more to do grow. Wait, then do them a fireball in your hand and shoot him directly at middle to high level competitions. I would say that the race "minimum" is the High Speed Turbo Race event of the Professional level. There are ten laps at an average of 1:05 to 1:10, you good money for and experience for the rider. The multi-rider racing extreme level and even better enduro are great for this, but we need to get there. For example, in one race - the first enduro - a pilot zero level to the very first race of his life has become now level 13.
The important thing to note is that the pilot gets points for a multi-race pilot, depending on the number of laps in total Compline. If it's 10 laps to 60, will take one-sixth of the points. Let face it, for example by sending him to the track immediately to the first exchange.
For now I'll stop here. If you have any comments or questions please drop me and I will answer if I can, and will update the "chat".
See you soon
- 14
- JA5ON_NSX
What do you mean by using new bobs later? can you use different bobs in a single race?
- 1
- hn-416
The fastest way to build up Bobs is to make a new one and put him to race the LeMans 24h with 3 more experienced ones. The new Bob instantly levels up (well, after 24 hours at least...) to abt. 30-something. I tried this twice since I retired the first two Bobs I created in late November.
The Level 0 New Bob has no problems doing ok laps in Sarthe with the X2010. My three other drivers in these test races have been on Levels 37 and 38. All my drivers are intentionally as hotheads as possible.
The Level 0 New Bob has no problems doing ok laps in Sarthe with the X2010. My three other drivers in these test races have been on Levels 37 and 38. All my drivers are intentionally as hotheads as possible.
- 165
I'll tell you my strategy for B spec.
Pace up at the beginning of the race, get to 1st ASAP. This is not always possible, but the earlier you're in 1st, the less chance of losing because of a mistake later on.
If it's a close race where you're slowly gaining places, never let the blue/red bar go to the extreme red. Your driver will make mistakes if this happens. Keep it somewhere in the red, but not all the way there. When your driver is trying to gain places, he will automatically go to the red. Use pace down to keep it below max.
PS: Giving directions doesn't make a huge difference IMHO, although it undoubtedly helps. Basically, it will be the difference between coming close 2nd or close 1st, but won't really help you come 1st if your Bob finishes 7th without your directions. The level of the driver makes a lot of difference, I had times when I simply couldn't do better than 5th/6th, then my driver levels up and voila, he comes 1st by a huge margin.
Just my personal observations, without doing any maths or going into deep analysis.
Of course, if your car is overpowered, just hit start race and watch some TV.
Pace up at the beginning of the race, get to 1st ASAP. This is not always possible, but the earlier you're in 1st, the less chance of losing because of a mistake later on.
If it's a close race where you're slowly gaining places, never let the blue/red bar go to the extreme red. Your driver will make mistakes if this happens. Keep it somewhere in the red, but not all the way there. When your driver is trying to gain places, he will automatically go to the red. Use pace down to keep it below max.
PS: Giving directions doesn't make a huge difference IMHO, although it undoubtedly helps. Basically, it will be the difference between coming close 2nd or close 1st, but won't really help you come 1st if your Bob finishes 7th without your directions. The level of the driver makes a lot of difference, I had times when I simply couldn't do better than 5th/6th, then my driver levels up and voila, he comes 1st by a huge margin.
Just my personal observations, without doing any maths or going into deep analysis.
Of course, if your car is overpowered, just hit start race and watch some TV.
Anyone readin this post, your answers are welcome!! So iv noticed that when my Bob gets a nice lead the indicator is to the furthest left point, in the blue zone and then he starts driving like my nan on a Sunday!!! So are we establishing that if this is how you like to win races then your Bob will drive best if he's gotta v cool temperament???? Has anyone tested this theory to see if there honestly is any difference whatsoever??????
I will post a good guide to the mechanics of B-spec when the sig competition is over on monday. I think I have the mechanics down 100% now and how the commands work, and don't work. Need to keep it to myself until monday though so I get the Germany trip. Currently 4th best worldwide overall time.
- 193
Nice..I'll be looking forward to your interpretation of bunk-spec. I thought I had it figured out until bob stopped the car right in the middle of a race, got out, climbed thru my tv screen, and promptly started slapping the snot out of me
So, here I sit with a black eye and a fat lip with baited breathe awaiting your tutelage. Good luck with your race btw.👍
SirAlanClive
Premium
- 677
- Florø/Norway
- GTP_Rossi/SirAlanClive
I'm so looking forward to touching the beast WHEN you win it....forget those realworld drivers....they don't stand a chance....your attitude makes you a winner ...GO MARXGORM GO!!!
(I'm like 3.2 seconds behind you on the speedway and no signs of improvement. So you're the closest thing I can get to winning it! And yes I'm going to swear and fret when I read your guide! I obviously haven't got it quite right...but I'm close!)
- 201
- Leipzig
- OD_STiG39
Question.
At Level 20 I first acquired a second BOB. Then I used both regular.
At around Level 22 overall, my BOB No 1 reached already Level 23. My overall Level is 22???
Now I´m Level 29 B-Spec. BOB 1 is Level 30, Bob 2 is 29, Bob 3 ist 28 and Bob 4 ist 27.
Bob 3 & 4 did the same amount of races and laps during endurance races.
What´s the math behind this? Why is Bob 1 higher than my overall B-Spec Level???
CONFUSED
At Level 20 I first acquired a second BOB. Then I used both regular.
At around Level 22 overall, my BOB No 1 reached already Level 23. My overall Level is 22???
Now I´m Level 29 B-Spec. BOB 1 is Level 30, Bob 2 is 29, Bob 3 ist 28 and Bob 4 ist 27.
Bob 3 & 4 did the same amount of races and laps during endurance races.
What´s the math behind this? Why is Bob 1 higher than my overall B-Spec Level???
CONFUSED
SirAlanClive
Premium
- 677
- Florø/Norway
- GTP_Rossi/SirAlanClive
Your B-spec level is not the same as Bob's. He gets/shares exp from races, you get all exp from races. He levels at different exp than you do. You both max out at 40 though. It's normal to have a lower level than Bob...we all did.
- 151
- despawn
Being a Bob-hater, I can see the potential of som serious issues here. If my stupid, do-no-gooder Bob has a higher level then me, I know not what might happen to my psyche...
- 201
- Leipzig
- OD_STiG39
Ah, ok. Thank you, Sir. I didn´t know that.
- 47
- DUI_Shenanigans1
- DUI Shenanigans
in the long endurance races will he automatically replenish his fuel level or do I have to do it for him, I know he will switch out tires when need be
Comments to the last few questions:
Yes, your B-Spec will pull in and refule/re-tire when required.
For the last question - I immagine that the B-spec drivers still age even if they aren't being used. So a driver that joins the team and never races once will still "end their career" after X number of years.
Yes, your B-Spec will pull in and refule/re-tire when required.
For the last question - I immagine that the B-spec drivers still age even if they aren't being used. So a driver that joins the team and never races once will still "end their career" after X number of years.
- 538
- Pensacola, FL/USA
- SoCal_Senator
Mordraken
Actually, they only gain experience (age) from races they compete in--whether regular B Spec or remote. Check your driver page, it shows wins/races for each one. Remember a "game day" for your drivers in counted by races they are entered in.
Hope that helps.
PS: remember you need to fully mature one to 500 "days" to get the trophy (air of experience I think).
- 83
- Minneapolis, MN
- Xochi_Rhodoix
I am having some problem I am unsure how to fix.
I currently am running grinding sessions with my Bobs and making quite a few new friends. However the issue is the experience bar. It won't budge.
I had 2 drivers at lv 0 and the rest above 15. However none of their XP bars have moved, and the 0's are now around lv 17. Any suggestions on to why they gain levels and money but no XP.
I have tried taking them offline then putting them online and the XP bar does' budge.
I currently am running grinding sessions with my Bobs and making quite a few new friends. However the issue is the experience bar. It won't budge.
I had 2 drivers at lv 0 and the rest above 15. However none of their XP bars have moved, and the 0's are now around lv 17. Any suggestions on to why they gain levels and money but no XP.
I have tried taking them offline then putting them online and the XP bar does' budge.
- 538
- Pensacola, FL/USA
- SoCal_Senator
Xochi
Have you cashed them in? Do you see some yellow dots at the bottom of the driver page? Hitting the money icon or taking them offline gives you the $ and XP. The experience bar takes a long time to fill--500 races.
- 83
- Minneapolis, MN
- Xochi_Rhodoix
Yeah I cashed them in, I do every night yet no gray bar experience. However if it is true you don't get it from online, that sucks D:<
