Drag tuning help

  • Thread starter Flippin
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You don't want to be sitting at the redline at any point during the drag race (basically you don't want to reach the top speed). If you are you are stopping yourself from going faster and you need to increase top speed.
 
First of all, learn how to drag from a tree, when car goes invisible you go that it. Second if you are running full tunnel ssr7, your rpm should be at the peak hp rpm at the end of the tunnel. This is a wierd drag thread really...
 
Sorry for making my very first post a flat out "help me"

As of this morning, I am level 17 in GT5 and I am getting my butt handed to me in drag races. I've gotten my friend to gift me his Ferrari 458 Italia that was slightly modified to 600hp (i think), but I can't win a damn thing.:grumpy:
Could any of you pro draggers help me out a bit? I wanted to start off with either a Skyline or an Evo style car as the base. What parts should I use and the tuning of the suspension, trans, aero, and all of that other stuff would make for a great drag car would be greatly appreciated.

Try increasing the gear ratios, not too much or you'll loose a lot of acceleration. Find a balance, experiment with the car first and then you'll get there. Also make sure you set the down force to ten on both ends of the car (If possible) it really helps increase the contact of the road to the tires so whilst turning on a track like SS57, you won't loose a lot of speed. Also try slipstreaming when your facing an opponent in a drag race.
 
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Try increasing the gear ratios, not too much or you'll loose a lot of acceleration. Find a balance, experiment with the car first and then you'll get there. Also make sure you set the down force to ten on both ends of the car (If possible) it really helps increase the contact of the road to the tires so whilst turning on a track like SS57, you won't loose a lot of speed. Also try slipstreaming when your facing an opponent in a drag race.
Seriously man, when the race isnt started, you wont benefit running behind a car, because slip stream wont work. Second, in drag race, each car runninig in its own lane. Slipstream = instant kicks if it were my server. Then downforce should be set to minimum of you are drag racing, which is straight line only. You wont benefit from the downforce when you accelerating. 4 wheel drive wont spin that much. I would try to move the ballast weigh and se if i gain any traction. Ballast weight 0 kg, position ??.

Why would he turn when he is drag racing? Either you drag tune your ride, or tune it for circuit racing, otherwise the setup wont be optimized....


/beat my supra rz please :)
 
I guess he got outplayed?
My Evo isn't all that great. But so far, all I have gone up against are Corvettes and stuff.
 
My PSN is XxFlippin0xX. If you guys want to add me and help me out in game, thatd be great. I'm playing right now if you want
How do you get a Supra. I looked in the dealerships and can't find it
 
My PSN is XxFlippin0xX. If you guys want to add me and help me out in game, thatd be great. I'm playing right now if you want
How do you get a Supra. I looked in the dealerships and can't find it
The Supra RZ poppes out now and then. Remember, for drag racing where hp is crucial, dont even think about bying cars that are over 10 000 miles. Over 13 000 miles, hp decrease and wont be fully returned. Take it easy dawg...
 
I'm about to do some 4wd races and get some cash so I can build the skyline
Or should i just completely drop the skyline idea and tune a diff car?
 
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ok, thank you. I'll take a look
Specs of the Evo:
502hp
1247kg
415ft-lb of torque
1998cc Displacement (What?)

What do you think of this? I'll turn down the Max mph and do the suspension, and aero stuff in a little bit
How should I adjust the LSD?
Front..................Rear
10....initial torque....10
40.....Accel Sens.....40
2o.....Brake sens.....20
what should the numbers be?
Good post TT3AZ 👍

First, the Nur R34 would have been the better choice due to power weight ratio.. Also, take the car to Daytona for practice and do 80 laps (200 miles) to 'break in' motor.

Anyway, 1/4 drag is tricky and every car is different but some rules apply to certain drivetrains.

My LSD in my EVO V is:
60-60 Torq
60-60 Accel
5-5 brake

Torque split: 40-60
Set top speed to 162

Send me a message on PSN or this forum and I can say more.
 
http://gt5cars.net/

This is a good site, you can search all cars, and se their weight, hp, tq, etc. Its good for comparing two similar cars, for example skyline nur and the regular one.

There be can huge differance, even though the cars seem to be "similar", for example the bmw m5 05 weighs less than the m5 08, and that can be important if you want to optimize everything.

4wd cars are also complex to tune, because you dont want to much weight transfer to the rear wheels = front wheels loose grip. But on the same way, the suspension can be to stiff...
 
Thanks for the link. Anyone wanna play some gt5 right now? Just add me or something.
Man, buying a car can be so difficult. I'm so picky. I don't like oldies, and I don't like complete rice rockets.
Bought a GT-R and am tuning it
 
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Thanks for the link. Anyone wanna play some gt5 right now? Just add me or something.
Man, buying a car can be so difficult. I'm so picky. I don't like oldies, and I don't like complete rice rockets.
Bought a GT-R and am tuning it
Okay good for you, hope you bought the spec v model...
 
Does the V-spec just look different or something? Or does it have more power, less weight? Haven't been on GT5 in a couple hours to check the stats.
 
First of all, a couple of you need to learn how to edit your posts and NOT DOUBLE OR TRIPLE POST!! :grumpy: It shows that you guys haven't read the Acceptable Use Policy properly or at all when you joined GTPlanet.

Now, onto topic.

TT3AZ has said some very valid points in his few posts. It's all dependent on where you are racing really, be it Indy, Monza, Suzuka, TGTT or SSR7. Each track has it's own distances (Top Gear Test Track for example is just over 1000m from end to end, and if you don't believe me, go get a C4 WRC, go to cockpit view and you can measure it yourself!) so specific cars are used for each track. For me, I have a specialized car for short straights, but my real love is on SSR7 because that's where 98% of the fast drag racers decide to hang out so a couple of other cars come out to play, such as the Dodge Viper ACR or SRT-10 '03, Ferrari Enzo, Cadillac Cien, Ford GT or Bugatti Veyron.

The R35 GT-R (doesn't matter if it's '07, '09 V-Spec or the '09 V-Spec GT Academy Edition) can't compete with those cars on SSR7 but it can match it with a lot of other quick cars (such as the Audi R8 5.2 FSI, McLaren F1, TVR Speed 12 for examples) and on the shorter tracks, it's 4WD launch makes it a more than formidable opponent to nearly everything.

As for the people who are saying "Get an X1 out!", the second you did that in my room you would have a nice message saying "YOU HAVE BEEN KICKED OUT!". That usually takes all of 10 seconds of my time and takes another 2 minutes of your time as you search for another server that will put up with that crap. 👍
 
Seriously man, when the race isnt started, you wont benefit running behind a car, because slip stream wont work. Second, in drag race, each car runninig in its own lane. Slipstream = instant kicks if it were my server. Then downforce should be set to minimum of you are drag racing, which is straight line only. You wont benefit from the downforce when you accelerating. 4 wheel drive wont spin that much. I would try to move the ballast weigh and se if i gain any traction. Ballast weight 0 kg, position ??.

Why would he turn when he is drag racing? Either you drag tune your ride, or tune it for circuit racing, otherwise the setup wont be optimized....


/beat my supra rz please :)

Well if he's racing in SSR7, he has to merge right OR left because of the little turning points on the SSR7 straights, that's when id say downforce is useful, I really don't know what type of setting you use but for me I find my settings useful, BTW my bad about the slipstream bit, wasn't thinking LOL.:dunce:
 
Well if he's racing in SSR7, he has to merge right OR left because of the little turning points on the SSR7 straights, that's when id say downforce is useful, I really don't know what type of setting you use but for me I find my settings useful, BTW my bad about the slipstream bit, wasn't thinking LOL.:dunce:

No he doesn't!! You have more than enough space to fit three cars side by side without any worries of merging....and if you have intelligent people in your room that know how to line up side by side properly, you can even get four people!! Also, if you can't get around that little bend, even with drag settings, then you should consider improving your driving first before you improve your tuning.
 
No he doesn't!! You have more than enough space to fit three cars side by side without any worries of merging....and if you have intelligent people in your room that know how to line up side by side properly, you can even get four people!! Also, if you can't get around that little bend, even with drag settings, then you should consider improving your driving first before you improve your tuning.

Yah, but I'm talking about how you can improve your speed in the merging point of the drag race by tuning, LOL IMPROVING aerodynamics which increases grip = less loss of speed in merging point duh, what I'm trying say that if your good at the merging point then you can do BETTER, with more downforce and hopefully the result of top speed is greater in the drag race.👍
 
Here's some simple physics for you. More Downforce = Less Top Speed. Proven fact because more downforce = more drag!! Why do you think that F1 runs a "Drag Reduction System" where the aerodynamics are reduced so the car can run a higher top speed in the straights?? It's the same philosophy in GT5.

Also, if you are talking about a merger point, it's obvious that you guys start further back than you should be. You only need to line up where the light from the tunnel starts....there's a clear line across the whole road that you can line four people up and have absolutely no issues with merging.
 
You dont need to tune your car to turn on ssr7, you can accelerate in a quite straight way if you turn your wheels just a little bit after it has gain traction. The key to turn, is to turn smothly, no sudden movements.

Second, all his questions has been discussed in previous threads, i know because i have my self written in those threads, and i dont feel to write all this information again.

Hence, a drag tuning guide, wont help either, because a technic is only vaild and effective untill some other person comes up with something. What is important is basic understandig of physics, and how this is achieved in the game.

If im not wrong, a person on this forum listed all "good" threads regarding the suspension, LSD and transmission. For specific cars and fine tuning, then you got to find persons also tuning that specific car.

But i still believe that you will benefit more if you make your "own" tunes, because there are many missconseptions regarding drag tuning, that really doesnt make sence.

In drag rooms, many people think warmin your tires and have tire wear on gives better grip, but that isnt true since our tires arent drag tires. Tire wear on = more wheel spin, even if the tyres arent worn out.
 
It's more complicated than you think. Technically lower downforce means greater straight line speed. But it really depends on how much aerodynamic parts you have, and I'm not talking about F1, F1 cars these days have a lot of aerodynamic parts which makes them produce a lot of drag. Increased speed therefore is the best compromise in aerodynamics and power balance. But without downforce the car will become unstable at top speeds, due to lack of downforce. Although increasing the rear toe angle can help and it may be good if you decrease the ride hight and the spring rates. BTW I fully race round SSR7 online and regarding the merges its still generally a drag race.
 
It's more complicated than you think. Technically lower downforce means greater straight line speed. But it really depends on how much aerodynamic parts you have, and I'm not talking about F1, F1 cars these days have a lot of aerodynamic parts which makes them produce a lot of drag. Increased speed therefore is the best compromise in aerodynamics and power balance. But without downforce the car will become unstable at top speeds, due to lack of downforce. Although increasing the rear toe angle can help and it may be good if you decrease the ride hight and the spring rates.
This is true in real life, but in this game, if you are running like 200 mph and dont make sudden movements, you wont have any problems. Sure your car will be a litte bit more stable, but the person with higher top speed will beat you then. I have raced manny cars with spoiler etc, and the increasing drag makes the loose.

To make this clear, you DONT want to have any downforce while drag racing in this game, thats it. You also want toe and camber at 0.0 for maximum grip. I have drag cars that are really unstable at high speeds, but you need to drive calm and clean. The positive part is that they have good acceleratioin and grip, which is crucial in drag racing i would say. Then if you crash your car in game, nothing happens, you wont die, as in real life.

Some people also say that downforce increase the grip by pushing the rear down, well that is true, but in reality, those effects only work well after a certain speed, which is usually pretty high compared to the speed your cars is traveling when the tires spinn.

And, then if you race around the ssr7 then its circuit racing, in drag racing its only important to optomize your car for straight line.

Im not a expert, but as far as I know, and what i have seen, minimun downforce = higher top speed and acceleration, and that is important in drag racing.
 
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