Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter

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my wheel only detects as CSL now in Fanatec mode, but i still need to do more driving to see if any improvments/difference
Click to expand...
Im guessing you'll find it better but somewhat light now after the update. It was always the right way for csw, given that its a belt base and almost the same as csl elite anyway. Before the gt7 update it was pretty much perfect for me, now I cant dial it in. Hoping for pd patch
 
Hi folks ! I've updated to the latest beta version (34) and on Forza Mortorsport my wheel (TGT2) has become extra powerful, my FFB setup has become way too strong, vibration have became too strong (I was used to set it to 30 , now I'm on 1), FFB I had to decrease from 70 to 40, even at this level something feel wrong

I am the only one ?
@Podger is it normal ?

Edit : nevermind it seems this is related to the last update of FM (update 10) rather than drivehub, this change the ffb and I have to rework my settings, vibration is still acting strange (maybe related to the addition of trueforce ?)
 
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Hey guys, I am selling a like new Drivehub and GIMX adapter along with the Hori PS4 Mini Controller. Here is my listing on eBay. Price is negotiable, I am asking $175, everything cost me more than $200 new.

www.ebay.com

GIMX Console USB Racing Wheel Adapter, DriveHub and Hori Mini Controller | eBay

Here is everything you need to hook up your PC racing wheel, pedals and shifter to a Playstation 5. I am including a like new GIMX USB adapter that you connect to your PC, a DriveHub that connects to the GIMX and your PS5 and a Hori Mini PS4 controller so the PS5 does not cut off the...
www.ebay.com
 
kartman21
Hi folks ! I've updated to the latest beta version (34) and on Forza Mortorsport my wheel (TGT2) has become extra powerful, my FFB setup has become way too strong, vibration have became too strong (I was used to set it to 30 , now I'm on 1), FFB I had to decrease from 70 to 40, even at this level something feel wrong

I am the only one ?
@Podger is it normal ?

Edit : nevermind it seems this is related to the last update of FM (update 10) rather than drivehub, this change the ffb and I have to rework my settings, vibration is still acting strange (maybe related to the addition of trueforce ?)
Click to expand...
when was the update 10 delivered
 
Hey everyone. I wonder if anyone knows what to do with drive Hub or whether it's an indication that's it's dead?

The setup is the following:
  • PS5 disc version
  • CSL DD + mclaren wheel + clubsport round wheel + CSL Elite v2 pedals + ClubSport Shifter - cables original, everything works on PC
  • Drive Hub - bought new, cable original
  • Firmware updated through above mentioned web page to 2.1.2 Beta 34
  • PS4 Nacon Compact Controller (works with ps5 separately)

The issue:
  • I followed the manual and plugged everything into the PS5 the same way I did with PS3 - plug everything into Drive Hub and then drive hub into the console, turned on the wheel, loaded the game (GT7) and ended up in the controls setup.
  • On first attempt the wheel was recognized as Logitech G29, all the buttons, pedals and wheel base worked. But after reading that a native Fanatec mode exists, I found the buttons on the wheel that are described in the manual as settings and screenshot buttons, pressed them for a few seconds. This cycled the mode and the wheel was now seen as an unknown device. I cycled a few times this setting, as well as the left button on Drive Hub and eventually noticed that "F" is displayed on the display of the Fanatec wheel.
  • after I verified that F is displayed on the wheel screen, I realized that the controls no longer work and the wheel is not recognized. GT7 now shows that no steering devices are found.

The wheel is no longer recognized on PS5 and I've tried different firmwares, wheel base modes, order of turning things on, and cables. Drive Hub displays a racing 8 when turned on, the wheel displays F on its screen, but other modes don't turn on when using the settings+screenshot buttons on the wheel.

Does anyone know what to do? Or is this drive hub broken?
 
Alright, seems like I solved it for now by reflashing firmware on a completely different pc and using a different cable. Plugged into ps5 now using original cable and it works. Didn't try switching modes as it's recognised as csl DD pro.

Edit: worked exactly once. After turning the console off and on, doesn't work anymore. Trying the same thing does not work. I did have about 10 hours between the attempts when it did work, so I wonder if this is relevant, even if it's weird.
The only way it works between sessions now is:
  • flash firmware 2.1.1
  • plug everything in while console is off, turn the wheel base on
  • turn on the console, verify that drive hub is recognised, turn off
  • flash firmware 2.1.2 beta 34, and replug everything while console is off, turn on the wheel base, turn on the console - this way it works


So is this drive hub broken or is this an issue with beta?
 
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Hi All,

I have an older Fanatec setup consisting of a Clubsport V2.0 wheelbase, Clubsport V1 Universal hub and Clubsport V3 pedals.

I have purchased a Drivehub so I can use it on the PS5 with GT7, I have the Nancon wired controller which works fine for the authentication. All firmware has been updated on both the wheel hub and the drivehub to the current versions as of yesterday.

The wheel works fine in Fanatec mode, the only issue I am having is button mapping. GT7 recognises the wheel as a Fanatec GT DD but I am unable to get the paddle shifts working. Some but not all of the other buttons work, at least the main ones I need.

Has anyone else had experience with the DriveHub and older fanatec wheels, is there anyway to get the shifter paddles working that other people have found?

Cheers
 
Mrrx313b
Hi All,

I have an older Fanatec setup consisting of a Clubsport V2.0 wheelbase, Clubsport V1 Universal hub and Clubsport V3 pedals.

I have purchased a Drivehub so I can use it on the PS5 with GT7, I have the Nancon wired controller which works fine for the authentication. All firmware has been updated on both the wheel hub and the drivehub to the current versions as of yesterday.

The wheel works fine in Fanatec mode, the only issue I am having is button mapping. GT7 recognises the wheel as a Fanatec GT DD but I am unable to get the paddle shifts working. Some but not all of the other buttons work, at least the main ones I need.

Has anyone else had experience with the DriveHub and older fanatec wheels, is there anyway to get the shifter paddles working that other people have found?

Cheers
Click to expand...
@Podger do you think you would be able to help them?
 
I've done some testing on PS5/GT7/CSL DD and it seems like the firmware Beta 33-34 are broken in Fanatec mode.
If you switch to Fanatec mode by holding the settings+share buttons for a few seconds, the drive hub stops being recognized on the console and the only workaround is to reflash firmware 2.1.1, plug into console, get recognized, then reflash to beta 34 and play. But this works only until you either restart the console or the wheel base, so you need to reflash it over and over to use. This is a shame because Beta 34 has fixed ffb issues in GT7 which are present in Beta 31 - which actually works after restart. Tested this on two different drive hubs.
 
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Ive not been on this forum for a while and hence not updated. I’ve got the csl dd 8nm and drive hub and play mostly gt7 but sometimes sim race on pc. Does that mean I shouldn’t update the firmware on the drive hub? Does the newer firmware give more ffb with the latest gt7 update?

Also side question is it easy to map buttons on gt7? My wheel shows up as a Logitech in game and can’t figure out how to map different button to toggle the map/radar options
 
You are supposed to hold share+settings buttons for three seconds to switch to Fanatec mode which will make GT7 recognize your wheel as CSL DD PRO and improve the FFB feel. Makes assigning buttons much easier as well. For Mclaren wheel its N+P, for the round rim its 3+4. Probably will need to restart the hub. Firmware works fine up to beta 31, but the most up to date beta 34 only works if you do the steps in the post above ie. only for one session.
 
depapier
You are supposed to hold share+settings buttons for three seconds to switch to Fanatec mode which will make GT7 recognize your wheel as CSL DD PRO and improve the FFB feel. Makes assigning buttons much easier as well. For Mclaren wheel its N+P, for the round rim its 3+4. Probably will need to restart the hub. Firmware works fine up to beta 31, but the most up to date beta 34 only works if you do the steps in the post above ie. only for one session.
Click to expand...
That’s is awesome I had no idea about having to hold down the buttons for it to change to csl dd pro. The ffb feels more or less the same tho
 
yeh I don’t want to have that issue. So am I ok updating to beta 33.

Also McLaren gt3 with csl dd pro. Do you guys set the sensitivity to certain number or on auto
 
Beta 33 has the same issue.
In GT7 I switch between 6-10 sensitivity depending on a car. High speed cars tend to make the wheel oscillate too much. On the wheel base itself I haven't really done much about settings, so its on auto.
 
depapier
You are supposed to hold share+settings buttons for three seconds to switch to Fanatec mode which will make GT7 recognize your wheel as CSL DD PRO and improve the FFB feel. Makes assigning buttons much easier as well. For Mclaren wheel its N+P, for the round rim its 3+4. Probably will need to restart the hub. Firmware works fine up to beta 31, but the most up to date beta 34 only works if you do the steps in the post above ie. only for one session.
Click to expand...
I am able to swith into Fanatec mode, the game recognises my wheel as a DD PRO but I cannot assign buttons, is there something I am missing to do this?
 
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Mrrx313b
I am able to swith into Fanatec mode, the game recognises my wheel as a DD PRO but I cannot assign buttons, is there something I am missing to do this?
Click to expand...
From what I’ve gathered you cannot assign button but assign functions to the buttons. So you have to use this IMG_3254.png

To work out what buttons are representing ps5 controllers and then change accordingly. I cannot work out how to map 11 and 13 to be able to change map/radar/leaderboards.
 
@Podger, Hi!
Would you consider output as a x360 racing wheel?
Even without FFB that would be amazing!
And it would make it possible to play some exclusive games like the Project Gotham Racing series using a racing wheel.

Please take a time to read this.

I've already asked it sometime ago and you said something about xbox wheels having to be wireless...
But I've got a usb device to appear as a xbox 360 racing wheel, detected in-game and working.
I've used the open source project Santroller, flashed on a Pico (RP2040). It can emulate xinput xbox devices.
In it's default config it will emulate a gamepad. But by just changing the "xinput device subtype" to "wheel", it got detected in-game on the x360!
So yeah, it's possible to have a x360 wired wheel working on the console. The way I did, only rumble is supported I believe. Game does not show any FFB info for the device.
Also, no handbrake and H-Shifter. No idea how xbox games detects those features.
 
Lew_Angry
Hello DriveHub users,

I am considering changing my TH8A to another better H-Shifter, I do wonder if those work with DriveHub:

1. Aiologs H-pattern Shifter

2. Frex HSHIFT+ with SimSynchro

Anyone compared those two shifters?

All the best,
Click to expand...
I have not tried the Aiologs, but it looks like it’s good. It has a bunch of adjustment options on it.

I have the Frex Hshift +, for just about 5 months I think now. I did not get the simsynchro. The Hshift is ridiculously good for the money. I love it!! Has a unique great mechanical feel and resistance for a sim shifter. It handles any and all abuse at higher resistance levels while somehow maintaining the same overall feel. Doesn’t feel sluggish, yet can set it so you must hammer into gear if you wanted to. The simple horizontal plunger system they went with is rock solid and feels great. I have had zero problems so far. Drivehub recognizes it on the digit screen by name upon startup. (Frecs I think. No x). Plug and play with Drivehub
 
Podger
none of them are on the list. There was another user with the Moza shifter.. we can generally add them with very little effort, if you have one and a PC.

if you get me this info I can do a lot:

Get HID Report Descriptors with “win-hid-dump” & “mac-hid-dump” – todbot blog

todbot.com todbot.com

if you go back a few pages on this topic you'll see where other users have done it.

also https://heusinkveld.com/download-diview/ gives more info if say they use a generic HID device that has multiple axes... for example, it wouldnt surprise me if that load cell had brake use the same controller as their pedal set.. some vendors are just lazy and dont customise their stuff.
Click to expand...


Just wonder where there is no Simucube 2 wheelbase support for all wheel converters ? is there any technical difficulties ?
Thanks
 
sonik_br
@Podger, Hi!
Would you consider output as a x360 racing wheel?
Even without FFB that would be amazing!
And it would make it possible to play some exclusive games like the Project Gotham Racing series using a racing wheel.

Please take a time to read this.

I've already asked it sometime ago and you said something about xbox wheels having to be wireless...
But I've got a usb device to appear as a xbox 360 racing wheel, detected in-game and working.
I've used the open source project Santroller, flashed on a Pico (RP2040). It can emulate xinput xbox devices.
In it's default config it will emulate a gamepad. But by just changing the "xinput device subtype" to "wheel", it got detected in-game on the x360!
So yeah, it's possible to have a x360 wired wheel working on the console. The way I did, only rumble is supported I believe. Game does not show any FFB info for the device.
Also, no handbrake and H-Shifter. No idea how xbox games detects those features.
Click to expand...
as far as I knw there was no x360 racing wheels that were USB, they were all wireless.
 
Podger
as far as I knw there was no x360 racing wheels that were USB, they were all wireless.
Click to expand...
I believe so!
But looks like that if a usb device identify itself as a wheel, it does work.
Just need to set the xinput "sub-type" flag to wheel, on it's usb descriptors.
At least this is how I hot it to show up on games as a racing wheel (without FFB).
 
Not sure if I’m allowed to ask, please tell me to remove if I am not. But what settings do you guys use for gt7 with drive hub and csl dd 8nm and McLaren gt3 v2? I’m game and on the wheel. Many thanks
 
Hello users, is the t818 drivehub connection successful?
I am Korean. I don't speak English. So I used a translator.
I recently bought t818 and tlcm in Seoul. I want to enjoy gt7 using drivehub for ps5.
Question
1. How is the connection between t818 and ps5?
2. Do I need to update the drivehub firmware at the moment to use t818 in ps5? Should I update it to beta?
3. If you use beta, please let me know the beta number at this point. Thank you for reading the long post.
 
I run the logitech g pro ps5 version and use drivehub for Xbox compatibility. Wheel is updated to latest firmware but when jumping on to give the latest forza 23 update a shot with truforce now enabled the truforce setting isn't showing up. Is there a certain drivehub firmware I need to be on for this to work?
 

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