Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter

[CWZCJ]

the universal hub has always been a pain for us. the problem originates with the top buttons not being mapped the same as the floating ones on the 3 button segments... what we do is use the front buttons that don't overlap as an indicator that the front buttons are in use and then switch mapping... this will however make the top buttons messed up... It sounds to me that you might have the segment connected to the wrong port on the baseboard... if you connect them as per the manual, they should be correct once the switch occurs.. we use X and B button the cause the switch as they are button number 22 and 26 and don't overlap with the normal button numbers of 1 to 21, so are definitely front buttons as such.

hi Podger, thanks for the reply, the hub i use was original from the stock, i never open it. i used it on a CSL ps4 version before I switch to V25 with DH. For X, it is always on A botton no matter CSL ps4 or V25/DH. the issue is that at the first period of time, the button function are the same between CSL ps4 and V25/DH. it just change after a couple minutes of playing.

beside this issue, i am quite happy with the DH.

 

[CWZCJ]

just a quick update, played last night for around 4 hours, using formula carbon rig with V 2.5/DH, no issue at all, all bottons acting same as CSL PS4. Will test with formular V2 tonight.

oh....actually one issue, i used to keep all the cables connected when turn off the PS4 the night before, but last night when i truned on the ps4, DH show error, then i need to disconnect it from PS4 and then re-plug in, everything was fine......

 

[ZiltoidRacer]

@Podger, i saw you have been doing some more f/w beta's so tried the latest one 2.0.4-beta.12 today and for me the the understeer rattle effect is less pronounced and less harsh on the hands when hitting it. It's still there but it seems managable but i will be doing more testing this afternoon.

Just thought i would let you know.

Set up:
TS-PC Racer
T3PA pro

 

[Goonie75]

Hi,

I am using the Drivehub and G920 with GTEYE brake spring mod (with spacer to remove the travel deadzone), on a PS4 mainly playing GTS.

Can anyone confirm if the G29 brake pedal travel deadzone & non-linear response issue exists when using other pedals via the DH, like the T3PA or even the Gx pedals via an adapter? I would assume it does as they would be seen as Logitech G29 pedals but thought I would ask.

Also is it possible for a fix to be added via a Drivehub FW? I know the travel can be adjusted when using a GIMX.

 

[MarcoM]

oh....actually one issue, i used to keep all the cables connected when turn off the PS4 the night before, but last night when i truned on the ps4, DH show error, then i need to disconnect it from PS4 and then re-plug in, everything was fine......

I have that quite often: on booting the ps4, there is not controller detected. Disconnecting and reconnecting DH to the ps4 solves is most of the time. Bit annoying though.

 

[Podger]

@Podger, i saw you have been doing some more f/w beta's so tried the latest one 2.0.4-beta.12 today and for me the the understeer rattle effect is less pronounced and less harsh on the hands when hitting it. It's still there but it seems managable but i will be doing more testing this afternoon.

Just thought i would let you know.

Set up:
TS-PC Racer
T3PA pro

I haven't actually released any code pertaining to this issue.. Any change may just be the vendor changing the game..

Hi,

I am using the Drivehub and G920 with GTEYE brake spring mod (with spacer to remove the travel deadzone), on a PS4 mainly playing GTS.

Can anyone confirm if the G29 brake pedal travel deadzone & non-linear response issue exists when using other pedals via the DH, like the T3PA or even the Gx pedals via an adapter? I would assume it does as they would be seen as Logitech G29 pedals but thought I would ask.

Also is it possible for a fix to be added via a Drivehub FW? I know the travel can be adjusted when using a GIMX.

I do have a G29 and pedals myself but as I already had a G27 I left the pedals in the box and used the G27 pedals and shifter on the G29...
So I'm curious, are the pedals different somehow, does the game treat the G29 differently because it is different...
So I guess part of the issue is GTS doesn't let you set a deadzone, maybe I'm wrong so the pedal travels a ways before the game notices/acknowledges it ?? what do you need to fix this ??

 

[Goonie75]

I do have a G29 and pedals myself but as I already had a G27 I left the pedals in the box and used the G27 pedals and shifter on the G29...
So I'm curious, are the pedals different somehow, does the game treat the G29 differently because it is different...
So I guess part of the issue is GTS doesn't let you set a deadzone, maybe I'm wrong so the pedal travels a ways before the game notices/acknowledges it ?? what do you need to fix this ??

The G29 pedals are the same as G27 pedals, except Logitech added a rubber bumper inside the brake spring to simulate a pressure style brake system, so when you press the brake about 50% you hit the rubber stopper and the pedal gets hard and you can't reach 100% travel. So my guess is the Logitech driver for PS4 or GTS sets the 100% travel in game to about 70% travel of the my actual pedals, the second thing the driver does is ramps up the last 40-50% of in game brake input to allow for pressing on the rubber bumper, so from approx 50% to 70% actual pedal travel, the in game brake level changes from about 50-60% to 100%.

So if you don't like the bumper, and if you search the forums most don't, and take it out you are left with these 2 issues, hence why I have added a 18mm hard stopper in place of the bumper, this works OK but these 2 issues make it harder to brake well in game with the reduced travel and non linear brake input.

I can can confirm this issue affects the G27 via a GIMX on PS4/GTS, my work mate has one, he was able to change the config to get full brake pedal travel, but not the non linear brake input.

I will be getting PCars 2 and Assetto Corsa soon, so I will be able to confirm how they work then.

 

[Podger]

The G29 pedals are the same as G27 pedals, except Logitech added a rubber bumper inside the brake spring to simulate a pressure style brake system, so when you press the brake about 50% you hit the rubber stopper and the pedal gets hard and you can't reach 100% travel. So my guess is the Logitech driver for PS4 or GTS sets the 100% travel in game to about 70% travel of the my actual pedals, the second thing the driver does is ramps up the last 40-50% of in game brake input to allow for pressing on the rubber bumper, so from approx 50% to 70% actual pedal travel, the in game brake level changes from about 50-60% to 100%.

So if you don't like the bumper, and if you search the forums most don't, and take it out you are left with these 2 issues, hence why I have added a 18mm hard stopper in place of the bumper, this works OK but these 2 issues make it harder to brake well in game with the reduced travel and non linear brake input.

I can can confirm this issue affects the G27 via a GIMX on PS4/GTS, my work mate has one, he was able to change the config to get full brake pedal travel, but not the non linear brake input.

I will be getting PCars 2 and Assetto Corsa soon, so I will be able to confirm how they work then.

thanks for the detailed answer... it would be easy to fix if GTS left the deadzone alone or even let you configure it yourself....

one thing you can try in the mean time. I created a mode called LogiFan mode, its like the opposite of FanaLogic, which make a Fanatec into a G29... LogiFan makes a G2x look like a CSL for PS4, this gives you the use of a handbrake if you have one which is the main reason for adding it. I cant remember what happens the extra buttons, but it might improve the pedal scenario for the time being..

 

[Goonie75]

thanks for the detailed answer... it would be easy to fix if GTS left the deadzone alone or even let you configure it yourself....

one thing you can try in the mean time. I created a mode called LogiFan mode, its like the opposite of FanaLogic, which make a Fanatec into a G29... LogiFan makes a G2x look like a CSL for PS4, this gives you the use of a handbrake if you have one which is the main reason for adding it. I cant remember what happens the extra buttons, but it might improve the pedal scenario for the time being..

Sounds great, I will try it later tonight.
Do I need a particular FW? How do I switch to Logifan mode? I can't find any other reference to it yet.

 

[Podger]

its been there a while... I usually just mention it in support email and such... press Share + options for a few seconds, the LLL or FFF displays on the DriveHub, this is different to Fanalogic that shows on the Rim display... I never worked out what to do about the red rotary encoder dial and the ^/v buttons as there is no equivalent on the CSL P4...

 

[Goonie75]

its been there a while... I usually just mention it in support email and such... press Share + options for a few seconds, the LLL or FFF displays on the DriveHub, this is different to Fanalogic that shows on the Rim display... I never worked out what to do about the red rotary encoder dial and the ^/v buttons as there is no equivalent on the CSL P4...

The pedal travel was longer using the Logifan mode, but there was still some deadzone at the end of the pedal travel, I tested before removing my 18mm stopper and the in game brake changed from 100% to 50% at the stopper, when I removed my stopper 100% in game translated to about 85 to 90% pedal travel, but I did notice the ramp affect was still there. I have asked a friend to see if he can notice the ramp on his T300/T3PA setup.

I did not try racing with the LogiFan mode because the wheel resistance was very hard to turn and there was no FFB for ripple strips etc.

 

[Podger]

The pedal travel was longer using the Logifan mode, but there was still some deadzone at the end of the pedal travel, I tested before removing my 18mm stopper and the in game brake changed from 100% to 50% at the stopper, when I removed my stopper 100% in game translated to about 85 to 90% pedal travel, but I did notice the ramp affect was still there. I have asked a friend to see if he can notice the ramp on his T300/T3PA setup.

I did not try racing with the LogiFan mode because the wheel resistance was very hard to turn and there was no FFB for ripple strips etc.

Thanks for the feedback. I guess it does answer the question that it is something the games is doing specifically for G29.. I can look into this. Should I do this with or without the stopper ????

I'll also look into the logifan issues, and see if there is anything commands I've forgotten to translate.

 

[Goonie75]

Thanks for the feedback. I guess it does answer the question that it is something the games is doing specifically for G29.. I can look into this. Should I do this with or without the stopper ????

I'll also look into the logifan issues, and see if there is anything commands I've forgotten to translate.

Awesome, without the stopper for me.

I will also try to test what happens in Assetto Corsa and Project Cars 2 this weekend.

Thanks

 

[Podger]

I'll also look into the logifan issues, and see if there is anything commands I've forgotten to translate.

I had a test tonight of the logifan to g920 and is indeed bugged, I’ve fixed it and will work in the next release

The pedal travel was longer using the Logifan mode, but there was still some deadzone at the end of the pedal travel, I tested before removing my 18mm stopper and the in game brake changed from 100% to 50% at the stopper, when I removed my stopper 100% in game translated to about 85 to 90% pedal travel, but I did notice the ramp affect was still there. I have asked a friend to see if he can notice the ramp on his T300/T3PA setup.

I did not try racing with the LogiFan mode because the wheel resistance was very hard to turn and there was no FFB for ripple strips etc.

I also looked at the pedals and for sure even on my g920 the g27 break reaches 100% long before it max extent, so the wheel expects the stopper to be there and is calibrated to take account of it....
I can’t really put data back in so you either need to use the stopper or accept the loss... I’ll test it with a new board I’m working, it’s a simple pedal/shifter adapter, I’m thinking something like that with take the wheel base out of the loop..
Still not sure what to do about gts

 

[Goonie75]

I had a very quick test on PC2 and AC last night.

PC2 - In game calibration and linear response for the brake pedal.

AC - I couldn't find any pedal calibration (note this was a very quick look) but the pedal response was linear but a similar travel to GTS.

Note these tests were done with a slightly shorter rubber bumper than the stock G29/920 bumper.

So it looks like an in game issue in GT Sport for both pedal travel and non-linear response, and possible an in game issue in AC for travel.

I also looked at the pedals and for sure even on my g920 the g27 break reaches 100% long before it max extent, so the wheel expects the stopper to be there and is calibrated to take account of it....
I can’t really put data back in so you either need to use the stopper or accept the loss... I’ll test it with a new board I’m working, it’s a simple pedal/shifter adapter, I’m thinking something like that with take the wheel base out of the loop..
Still not sure what to do about gts

Thanks for looking, as mentioned above it looks like a GT Sport issue.

If the updated Logifan mode increases the travel that will at least make dealing with the non-linear brake response easier to deal with.

My new bumper setup with GTEYE brake spring has improved the brake pedal a lot, and I could live with the shorter travel if the brake pedal response was linear.

Also do you know if using a set of T3PA or CSL Elite pedals via the DriveHub accessories port would have the same issues? Or be as bad?

 

[StefanZ]

Hey Podger,

I have another question about the button assignment. As discussed in posts #1387-1390, the buttons 8, 9, 10 (xbox) or L2, L3, R3 (ps4) are used for brake, nothing, gas.

You also wrote: "these buttons dont exist on the xb1 API ..."

But why can I use them directly on the xbox (thrustmaster ts-xw with this addon) connected? I can use all the buttons of this addon separately, no double occupancy (yes, not many buttons) ...

Do not get me wrong: I'm happy with the DriveHub. But you just lose too many buttons... :-/
And I just dont understand why. Because it works natively too.

I'm meaning this: https://shop.thrustmaster.com/de_de/products-steering-wheels/tm-open-wheel-add-on.html

On PS4 it's now possible to use all Buttons of the Fanatec CSL V2 / 2018/2019 - Wheel. I know, this is a xbox-problem, that this is not possible there, but I speak now really only from this 3 buttons. That would help so much for F1...

 

[fast_colin5]

Hi guys,

I just try wrc 8 on ps4 with my ts-xw connect on drive hub with the latest fw : 2.0.4 beta 15 and every 5/10 minutes the Wheel is automatically disconnect, and very hard to turn, i need to disconnect the usb cable (grey/black) on my ps4 and reconnect it.

I update my fw with the 2.02 and it works perfectly like dirt rally 2.0

For me this is the best firmware for this wheel.

At the moment (on this version) it just missing the support of 2 tss on the accessory port of drive hub and it would perfect.

Podger, any chance that you do it? it will be very appreciate.

Thanks

 

[Podger]

Hey Podger,

I have another question about the button assignment. As discussed in posts #1387-1390, the buttons 8, 9, 10 (xbox) or L2, L3, R3 (ps4) are used for brake, nothing, gas.

You also wrote: "these buttons dont exist on the xb1 API ..."

But why can I use them directly on the xbox (thrustmaster ts-xw with this addon) connected? I can use all the buttons of this addon separately, no double occupancy (yes, not many buttons) ...

Do not get me wrong: I'm happy with the DriveHub. But you just lose too many buttons... :-/
And I just dont understand why. Because it works natively too.

I'm meaning this: https://shop.thrustmaster.com/de_de/products-steering-wheels/tm-open-wheel-add-on.html

On PS4 it's now possible to use all Buttons of the Fanatec CSL V2 / 2018/2019 - Wheel. I know, this is a xbox-problem, that this is not possible there, but I speak now really only from this 3 buttons. That would help so much for F1...

its 9, 10, 11, 12 that are not present on Xb1 API.. thats R2, L2, R3, L3 on PS4...and there is a bunch of double occupancy on that rim... A is there 3 time, Menu and View twice...

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/pictures/PCMAC/TMOW/TM_Open_Wheel_Mapping_.pdf

there is really nothing I can about it.

 

[Jsv]

Hi Podger.
I have a 360 wheel with my Xbox One S and I have issues with Assetto Corsa and newer Drive Hub firmwares: some “old” cars (with more wheel degrees than modern ones) don’t detect the 360 wheel movement accurately; they turn only a few degrees making impossible to be driven. Instead, modern cars turn quite well.

With the 2.0.1rc15 fw that behavior doesn’t happen, but I’m losing all the new fixes you develop, better response to FFB, etc.

Any chance to fix it? Thank you very much.

 

[VBR]

This thread is just over two years old now, & has only fallen off the first page once as far as I can remember. It has 1,430 posts to date (including this one), & 224,129 public views. Congratulations to Collective Minds & @Podger for making such an awesome & popular device with the Drive Hub! The ongoing support is much appreciated too.


👍

 

[ivann]

How do I swap clutch and gas inputs on t3pro pedals?
I have inverted pedals and now gas is on the left :/
Wheel is Fanatec so I cant switch Mode...
and I really cant read 47 pages...

 

[CWZCJ]

Got DD1 running with drive hub last night for GT sport on ps4....smooooooothly. however just wondering is there a new update to the drivehub which could allow DD1 running in PC mode? thanks

 

[Ske]

Will a current Drivehub be upgradable to PS5/Scarlett compatibility, or will new hardware be needed? Or is it too early to say?

 

[Mad1723]

Will a current Drivehub be upgradable to PS5/Scarlett compatibility, or will new hardware be needed? Or is it too early to say?

Let me get my crystal ball, be right back

 

[raghza]

I have been wondering the same thing, but it's too early to tell.
I'd say if the PS4 controllers will be fully compatible, there's a good change the Drivehub will work as well.

 

[Podger]

Hi all, its been a while. We are offering 40% off for Black Friday ( November 28- Dec 1st) with coupon code: drive40

we also have a small add-on we did for adding logitech/thrustmaster pedals and logitech shifters

https://collectiveminds.ca/shop/allconsoles/copilot/

 

[VBR]

we also have a small add-on we did for adding logitech/thrustmaster pedals and logitech shifters

It's looking really good, & I'm loving the name Co-Pilot too. 👍


"The Co-Pilot is a shifter and pedal adapter designed to be used in conjunction with the Drive Hub wheel adapter, unlocking the ability to use legacy Logitech shifters and pedal sets with your favourite wheel. We have also included a port that accepts Thrustmaster branded pedals. All Gears, Buttons and Pedals are supported for compatible equipment."

Buy Co-Pilot here.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Hi all, its been a while. We are offering 40% off for Black Friday ( November 28- Dec 1st) with coupon code: drive40

we also have a small add-on we did for adding logitech/thrustmaster pedals and logitech shifters

https://collectiveminds.ca/shop/allconsoles/copilot/

Woah, does this allow me to use the G25 shifter connected to T-GT wheelbase? The shifter socket on the T-GT doesn't match anything on the adaptor above (unless it comes with extra cables).

 

[Podger]

Woah, does this allow me to use the G25 shifter connected to T-GT wheelbase? The shifter socket on the T-GT doesn't match anything on the adaptor above (unless it comes with extra cables).

No, it allows you to use the g25 shifter with DriveHub.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

No, it allows you to use the g25 shifter with DriveHub.

How is that useful then? The shifter is already connected to the G25 base, which is connected to Drivehub.