Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter

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@super_gt no it isn't, its a whole different product.. The Zen will have some very basic wheel support but its only the same as Cronus Plus has,

that would be G25, G27, DFGT on PS4.....t hat would include older fanatec wheels that can emulate G25 and G27...
 
Hi, anyone post a copy of Co Pilot insteuctions, lost mine and none on official website, my pedals not calibrated correctly getting 65% gas and 75% brake range
 
Hi, anyone post a copy of Co Pilot insteuctions, lost mine and none on official website, my pedals not calibrated correctly getting 65% gas and 75% brake range
There were none IIRC.
If you have everything plugged in, it will work. I would disconnect and restart the DriveHub, then press the pedals 100%, start the game and press at 100% again. I have no idea if there is any logic into it, but if I have had these problems, this always helps.
 
Gday all..

Ive only just come across the drive hub and would like to get my old Microsoft wireless racing wheel going with it on an xbox one x.. Has anyone used the drive hub with this wheel? i do see its supported im just wondering how it stands up using the drive hub? is the force feedback ok?
Mainly going to use with forza 7
Thanks
Daniel
 
Hi, have my DFP GT connected to drive hub and my G25 pedals connected to the Co-Pilot which is connected to the drivehub also . configures ok on bootup , I just cannot for love of me figure out why my DS4 controller which is off when inserted into the drivehub is acting like the rev counter on the hub, going from green to yellow too red when fully revving engine in Gt sport and also other racing sim/games does the same. it worked fine on my ps4 pro I sent back as faulty , bought a new ps4 pro but never had the pedals working correctly with not giving full pedal range. It's doing my nut in
 
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Just upgraded from t300 using a drivehub for Xbox support to a Fanatec csw2.5 plus wheel with the Xbox universal hub.

I’m just testing out gt sport using the drivehub for PS4 support now.

I have the wheel in the wheel/controller port and dual shock connected to the controller port.

I’m getting much improved FFB with the drivehub in fanalogic mode but want to try Fanatec mode as I’m assuming that will be best use of the wheel.

I’m pressing the Start/share buttons To try and activate fanatec mode but having no luck. I’ve tried the buttons on the front of the wheel and those on the top of the universal hub.

I’m presumably doing something daft but can’t figure out what! :-)

can anyone give me some pointers?

cheers
 
@Podger, thanks for getting back so quickly. Would be great if you can confirm.

I was going to ask you a few questions as I'm part way through figuring out how to set up my various bits of kit and remember you helping me get a TH8A working as a handbrake in Forza Horizon using drivehub a while ago. Hopefully you can help out again :-)

Just now I use the following configs for some particular games:
1) Dirt Rally on PS4. TH8RS is plugged directly into PS4 and appears as "Gear Stick Down" (or Up) in the controller mapping screen so I use this as a handbrake in Dirt Rally
2) Forza games on XBOX One - TH8A in handbrake mode plugged into Drivehub accessory port which lets me use it as a handbrake

I have to switch the TH8RS and TH8A off my wheel stand when I want to play these different games.

I've also bought a CSS SQ 1.5 so was hoping I could retire the TH8RS and do something like:
1) CSS in Sequential mode as a handbrake in Dirt Rally
2) Continue with just the TH8A in Drivehub Accessory port as analog handbrake in Forza (and maybe other games)

However, the CSS seems to always be seen as the on-wheel paddle shifters regardless of whether is is plugged directly into the CSW2.5 or using the CS USB adapter into PS4 or Drivehub Accessory port. That means option one isn't workable just now.

Is there a way to set-up this so that on PS4 the CSS SQ is seen the same as the TH8RS so I can map it separately? I am making a mount so I can keep my CSS & TH8A side by side but don't have room for the TH8RS too!!

Thanks again for your help, I bought my Drivehub at launch and it's been such a great bit of kit to get the most out of what I've acquired through the years.

Cheers
 
I'm looking to use my G25 wheel and pedals with the PS4. Do I just need the Drive Hub singly? Or do I need to get the Co-Pilot for the pedals too? Asking for a friend.
 
@Podger, thanks for getting back so quickly. Would be great if you can confirm.

I was going to ask you a few questions as I'm part way through figuring out how to set up my various bits of kit and remember you helping me get a TH8A working as a handbrake in Forza Horizon using drivehub a while ago. Hopefully you can help out again :-)

Just now I use the following configs for some particular games:
1) Dirt Rally on PS4. TH8RS is plugged directly into PS4 and appears as "Gear Stick Down" (or Up) in the controller mapping screen so I use this as a handbrake in Dirt Rally
2) Forza games on XBOX One - TH8A in handbrake mode plugged into Drivehub accessory port which lets me use it as a handbrake

I have to switch the TH8RS and TH8A off my wheel stand when I want to play these different games.

I've also bought a CSS SQ 1.5 so was hoping I could retire the TH8RS and do something like:
1) CSS in Sequential mode as a handbrake in Dirt Rally
2) Continue with just the TH8A in Drivehub Accessory port as analog handbrake in Forza (and maybe other games)

However, the CSS seems to always be seen as the on-wheel paddle shifters regardless of whether is is plugged directly into the CSW2.5 or using the CS USB adapter into PS4 or Drivehub Accessory port. That means option one isn't workable just now.

Is there a way to set-up this so that on PS4 the CSS SQ is seen the same as the TH8RS so I can map it separately? I am making a mount so I can keep my CSS & TH8A side by side but don't have room for the TH8RS too!!

Thanks again for your help, I bought my Drivehub at launch and it's been such a great bit of kit to get the most out of what I've acquired through the years.
Cheers
I don't think the Fanatec shifter is as flexible as the th8a... The th8a has 3 clear modes, the Handbrake mode or analog mode is set on you PC and persists.. on DriveHub the Fanatec shifter will map to the paddles
 
@Podger

I have the ts-xw wheel for the Xbox, but when I run it through drive hub into the Xbox (to use my Logitech shifter with copilot) it is recognized as a Ferrari 458 italia. Is there no way it can be recognized as the tsxw since it’s a natively supported wheel for the Xbox?
Running via drive hub does feel different to running the tsxw straight into the Xbox
 
@Podger

I have the ts-xw wheel for the Xbox, but when I run it through drive hub into the Xbox (to use my Logitech shifter with copilot) it is recognized as a Ferrari 458 italia. Is there no way it can be recognized as the tsxw since it’s a natively supported wheel for the Xbox?
Running via drive hub does feel different to running the tsxw straight into the Xbox

The display, is like that simply coz the 7 segment display cant display X or W or M so we came up with that purely to display something... the 3 xbox Wheels from TM were an issue, TX, TMX and TSXW... pretty lame I know.

You should have the Wheel in port 1 with no controller as its and xbox wheel natively. In direct mode the wheel is totally untouched with respect to the console, apart from inserting any accessories into the data stream...
 
The display, is like that simply coz the 7 segment display cant display X or W or M so we came up with that purely to display something... the 3 xbox Wheels from TM were an issue, TX, TMX and TSXW... pretty lame I know.

You should have the Wheel in port 1 with no controller as its and xbox wheel natively. In direct mode the wheel is totally untouched with respect to the console, apart from inserting any accessories into the data stream...

thanks Podger

I wasn’t aware of the direct mode so thanks for that but.... (I’m assuming you mean place the wheel in the controller port) then the shifter (logi h shifter via co-pilot) doesn’t work. Can only use the shifter when I have controller in port 1, wheel in 2 and then copilot in 3 (but then it seems to emulate a tx 458)

maybe this is just a bug, or maybe it’s me.
 
I don't think the Fanatec shifter is as flexible as the th8a... The th8a has 3 clear modes, the Handbrake mode or analog mode is set on you PC and persists.. on DriveHub the Fanatec shifter will map to the paddles

Thanks @Podger, I wondered if there was a way for the drive hub to make the CSS mimic a TH8A (e.g. appear as 'Gear Stick Up/Down' like the TH8RS does when plugged directly into the PS4. No problem if not, just means I need to be a bit less lazy ;-)

I've tested the TH8A in analog mode with Xbox One via Drivehub and all working as expected.

If you need me to do any beta testing on the potential fix for Fanatec mode I'm more than happy to help.

Cheers
 
@TurboSenna I think I fixed that bug yesterday, well I was fixing something else... but it ring a bell... will test as soon as and revert
I put a beta version 2.0.5-beta.1 on the server to address this issue, with switching fanatec/fanalogic or logitech/logifan, i actually came across the issue when testing the pedal swapping app.
Also, added a driver for the T-LCM pedals in USB mode.
There was also and issue disconnecting TH8a and TSS, they wouldn't always disconnect and would stop a reconnection...
 
@Podger

I've done some more testing if you are looking into this.

For use on PS4 - Fantastic. Emulated as a T300 (I assume) and I couldn't be happier.

For use on Xbox - different story

Xbox controller to port 1, TS-XW to port 2, and Co-pilot (logi h-shifter) to port 3: things work, but the wheel is emulated as a TX 458 (buttons all changed around, and FFB feel is quite different)

TS-XW via port 1, nothing in port 2, with co-pilot (logictec h-shifter) in accessories port: wheel works as intended, but shifter doesn't work. Putting co-pilot in port 2 doesn't work.

Xbox controller in port 1, and co-pilot in port 3 (no wheel connected): controller works, and shifter works. I can't get the shifter to work when the TS-XW is in the controller port.

Is this fixable?

Thanks. Really appreciate the support, and I'll be stoked if we can get this working
 
@Podger

TS-XW via port 1, nothing in port 2, with co-pilot (logictec h-shifter) in accessories port: wheel works as intended, but shifter doesn't work. Putting co-pilot in port 2 doesn't work.

Is this fixable?

Thanks. Really appreciate the support, and I'll be stoked if we can get this working

this is the correct arrangement. I will investigate why the shifter isn't showing.
 
@Podger

What is the pedal swapping app?

Also is there a any release notes for the different firmwares? So we can see what's new and what's fixed?

pedal swapping app was requested a while back and then user went another way.....

they wanted to invert some pedals they had... something like how TM lets you swap gas and clutch..

hold options and UP on dpad.... green light while holding..
after 3 seconds 2 green lights,
you can release the Options and Up on dpad
for accelerator, press A / Cross.... you should get and orange light... then push the pedal you want
for brake, press B / Circle.... you should get and orange light... then push the pedal you want
for clutch, press X / Square.. you should get a red light... then push the pedal you want...
to quit and save
press and hold options and Up on dpad until the green goes off...

if you dont do one of the pedals or use one twice the illegal value will be ignored... It does account for there being no clutch on 2 pedal sets...
 
I put a beta version 2.0.5-beta.1 on the server to address this issue, with switching fanatec/fanalogic or logitech/logifan, i actually came across the issue when testing the pedal swapping app.
Also, added a driver for the T-LCM pedals in USB mode.
There was also and issue disconnecting TH8a and TSS, they wouldn't always disconnect and would stop a reconnection...

Hey @Podger,

A little new to the setup side of things (beyond plug and play so to speak) so I apologise for my stupid question in advance. But in regards to your post above I’m assuming that means I will be able to use my T-LCM pedals with a Fanatec base on my XBOX while using drive hub?

Thanks in advance!
 
Hey @Podger,

A little new to the setup side of things (beyond plug and play so to speak) so I apologise for my stupid question in advance. But in regards to your post above I’m assuming that means I will be able to use my T-LCM pedals with a Fanatec base on my XBOX while using drive hub?

Thanks in advance!
correct
 
I put a beta version 2.0.5-beta.1 on the server to address this issue, with switching fanatec/fanalogic or logitech/logifan, i actually came across the issue when testing the pedal swapping app.
Also, added a driver for the T-LCM pedals in USB mode.
There was also and issue disconnecting TH8a and TSS, they wouldn't always disconnect and would stop a reconnection...

@Podger - Have had a quick test and I'm not sure the Fanalogic/Fanatec switching is working. If I hold down the View/Menu buttons for a few seconds the drive hub reboots and I get the FFF displayed. After this no buttons on the wheel are working on PS4 menu and the DS4 isn't doing anything either so I'm not sure how I would be able to navigate/start any game?

An E with a flashing dot is displayed on the drivehub - is this to indicate an error has been encountered?

Cheers
 
@Podger - Have had a quick test and I'm not sure the Fanalogic/Fanatec switching is working. If I hold down the View/Menu buttons for a few seconds the drive hub reboots and I get the FFF displayed. After this no buttons on the wheel are working on PS4 menu and the DS4 isn't doing anything either so I'm not sure how I would be able to navigate/start any game?

An E with a flashing dot is displayed on the drivehub - is this to indicate an error has been encountered?

Cheers
E would mean it’s in emulator mode for PS3 operation... it must not be detecting you controller in port 1... unplugging from the console should set it right...
 
E would mean it’s in emulator mode for PS3 operation... it must not be detecting you controller in port 1... unplugging from the console should set it right...

OK, disconnecting/reconnecting the drive hub did sort it. I didn't realise that the Fanalogic/Fanatec mode stayed in effect after being unplugged. It seems I always get put into the Emulation mode after switching, even though the controller is connected OK.
Switching back and forth between modes seems so work a bit inconsistently but wasn't taking a well structured approach to my testing so not sure if there is a bug to report there.

I notice that next to the 0 on the display, sometimes the '.' starts flashing with different patterns/frequency. Does that indicate anything?

Thanks
 
OK, disconnecting/reconnecting the drive hub did sort it. I didn't realise that the Fanalogic/Fanatec mode stayed in effect after being unplugged. It seems I always get put into the Emulation mode after switching, even though the controller is connected OK.
Switching back and forth between modes seems so work a bit inconsistently but wasn't taking a well structured approach to my testing so not sure if there is a bug to report there.

I notice that next to the 0 on the display, sometimes the '.' starts flashing with different patterns/frequency. Does that indicate anything?

Thanks
All settings are persistent and are written to the eeprom... the dot indicates the authentication packets on ps4
 
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