Driving Force Pro Pedal Problems

  • Thread starter Arwin
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DFPwiring.jpg
 
Just wanted to say thanks for the thread. I was finding that after an hour or two's use, i'd lose the top 10% of throttle.
So i popped the pedals open, sticktaped down the wires, and proceeded to have a 3 hour session with no dramas whatsoever :D
(BTW I've had my DFP since GT4 was released, and has seen some heavy use. Works like brand spankers now ;))
 
Just got the Driving Force Pro GT for Christmas and I love it to death. Unfortunately earlier today GT5P indicated the brake was about 2% pressed causing the car to slow down and sometimes not even start from a stop. When it happens (after hard driving) I have to reach down and pull the brake up a couple millimeters after every use of that pedal. It goes away after resetting the wheel (unplugging it and plugging back in) and I have yet to test it in GT4 or on the PC but when I can confirm it I'll give Logitech a ring and see if they can send me another. If so I'll attempt some kind of fix on this one.
 
Definitely have Logitech replace it if the unit is under warranty. Otherwise, you might need to open up the pedals to get at the loose potentiometer connections.
 
Just got the Driving Force Pro GT for Christmas and I love it to death. Unfortunately earlier today GT5P indicated the brake was about 2% pressed causing the car to slow down and sometimes not even start from a stop. When it happens (after hard driving) I have to reach down and pull the brake up a couple millimeters after every use of that pedal. It goes away after resetting the wheel (unplugging it and plugging back in) and I have yet to test it in GT4 or on the PC but when I can confirm it I'll give Logitech a ring and see if they can send me another. If so I'll attempt some kind of fix on this one.

ha,so i am not the only one with this problem...i opened the pedalbox yesterday and cleaned all dust away ...this helped a bit...but the problem now shifts between brake and gas pedal!!....
if you know a better fix for this please post so i can try aswell...👍


spyrrari.
 
so it looks like this is a problem with all sorts of wheels.

i have a thrustmaster ferrari great experience wheel ( http://www.game.co.uk/PS3/Hardware/Accessory/~r335642/Ferrari-Great-Experience-Wheel/ )
and i had the brake problem (always slightly on, gt5p) on day 1, but all i did was unplug it and put it back in again, fixed. then the problem came after a few weeks, and so i took it out and put it in again, and now it happens all the time, getting a refurbished driving force pro later this week, cant afford a new one! i will post my thoughts here.
 
does anyone have a similar problem with the G25 brake and accelerator pedals?
My brake pedal sticks, and slows the acceleration and top speed of the car.
I had the same problem with the force feedback pedals on GT4.
The G25 pedals where suppose to be more durable. I have had the G25 for less than 1 year. Any way to fix it?
 
I'm having the same problem with my G25 brake pedal sticking slightly on.

Noticed it with GT5 Prologue and with GT4.

Lifting the brake pedal with my foot stops it.

Very frustrating. I thought we'd seen the last of this problem that drove me crazy with my old DF Pro :mischievous::

I too would like to hear suggestions as to the cause – and any cure.
 
I also have these problems with both my brake and accelerator pedals with my G25, and the suggested fixes are way over my head and also appear to be more complicated with the G25 as I found out earlier while attempting to pull the pedal box apart.
 
Its probably your best bet to use the warranty, which I think is 2 years. Until Logitech uses contactless sensors, they just have to put up with replacing units because of a $2 part wearing out.
 
I'm trying to hook up with this electrican who might have a new potentiometer that will fit in. Whether the part will fit, and if it works well or not, is yet to be seen, because I haven't been able to take it to him yet.
 
Any one else noticed this problem with the slightly sticking (tapping) brake on the G25?

And, even more importantly, is there an easy solution?
 
Anyone have any success with the G25 problems? I have tried replacing the post but the ones in the G25 aren't standard ones, have tried 10k 22k and even 47k pots, in the end I had to heavily modify the pedals to get more travel into them for the replacement post to work.

Would love to hear from all the people who claim that it's just a matter of picking up a 10k pot from a local electrical components store and swapping them out.........
 
Wow this is the biggest train wreck i have ever witnessed in my life.

So after encountering this problem for the millionth time with the brake pedal, I decided to go inside and fix it myself....and that's where everything went wrong. I think I messed it up more than i fixed it and all i was left with are greasy fingers....this is hard. All you guys seem awesome while I fail fixing mine.

The hardest part of this frustrating process is putting it back together right....I don't even know if my springs are in the right place...this is killing me

EDIT: Nevermind, it's magically working now. Thanks for this thread. But my brake springs are MESSED up...not as stiff as before
 
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I've been playing NFS Shift where you don't really notice the sticking brake pedal that much. Thus, I've ignored the problem.

Today, for the first time in ages, I put GT5 Prologue back in the PS3 and went online to race.

:banghead::banghead::banghead: Damn that sticking brake pedal. Ended up losing a race by 0.03 secs because of it!

Mine has started sticking on completely today, so that you can't drive off until you've managed to release it – by tapping it with your foot.

On the straights I'm having to lift it from underneath to try to stop the sticking. Not good – and painful with time.

Has anybody got a definite answer about the cause – what exactly is wrong?
 
CAn somebody tell me

what color wires go to the pins

PLEASE!

I had a problem with my DFP last night, so I tested the pins. If you look at the connector so there are three pins on top and four underneath, if you look very closely there are two pins missing on the top row, which is why they're numbered 1 to 9, 1 and 5 are missing.

Pin 6 (lower left if you hold it with three on top and four underneath) is the black wire, pins 2 and 7 are the green wire, 3 and 8 are white and 4 and 9 are red. I hope that helps anyone trying to fix their DFP.


A few months ago, maybe even a year, I had a problem with my DPF pedals where the accelerator's zero point wasn't being found, it had a constant 5% (estimate) applied, which wasn't a massive problem in GT5P, but still annoying because that meant the pedals weren't working. I opened the pedals up and found, somehow, a tiny dead moth under the accelerator potentiometer, so when I removed it, the pedals worked again.

Last month I tried to use them again. I plugged the wheel in and started a race on Suzuka, using my controller to navigate the menus. As soon as the race started, the brake was fully applied and the accelerator was all over the place, I could press it but it wouldn't respond for ages, then the brake came off and the accelerator was fluctuating like mad. I took the pedals apart again, unplugged the potentiometers, cleaned the connectors and put it all back together, but still they were going up and down completely without input. I tested the wires and they all seemed fine, so I opened it up and moved the pots about and found that they worked fine if you sort of pulled them (gently) away from the pedal shaft.


Yesterday I tried them again and the zero point was off again, so I opened them up, and after hours of trying to get them working, testing them with the pedals inside and outside of the housing, drilling holes in the case to apply slight pressure to the pots with an elastic band (fixed the fact that they were always slightly applied, but meant I couldn't fully open the throttle) and generally getting frustrated, I just put them back together and then somehow, almost miraculously, they worked again. I used them for about an hour with no problems, without doing anything in particular to fix them. If the problem persists when GT5 comes out, though, I may have to just get a G25 or 27.


Edit:
I'd severely recommend against fixing the pots in place. If you sit them in their locators with the pedals in place and the bottom plate on the pedal box removed, press against the pedal shaft so it doesn't move, then press the pedal with your other hand and watch the potentiometer, it moves very slightly because it's eccentric, so if you fix the pot in place you'll be inducing a fair amount of stress on it. I read that someone fixed it by taping the wires in place, that's probably the best way to do it, but if you fix the pot itself so it can't move freely I'm almost certain you'll end up breaking it.
 
^^^ Hmmm... hours of work and no clear answer. Not the best news!

And buying a G25/G27 is no guarantee off success, as my G25 shows :ill:


This is getting stupid.
 
does anyone have a similar problem with the G25 brake and accelerator pedals?
My brake pedal sticks, and slows the acceleration and top speed of the car.
I had the same problem with the force feedback pedals on GT4.
The G25 pedals where suppose to be more durable. I have had the G25 for less than 1 year. Any way to fix it?

Riffle, I think that the problem are related to springs losing force, with the use they got shorter, it happens with G25/27, DFGT (bad quality springs) and every spring.
The solution is to enlarge springs a bit in order to recover elasticity and power on it. But only for 2 or 3 mm. in the end (you will need to enlarge it gently to obtain only a little enlargement).

Cheers from Spain.
 
A good few DF Pro users come across a common problem where the wheel starts braking slightly or the gas loses full-throttle. It happened to me after about four months, and after people who aren't as gentle as I tested the wheel :argh :lol Fortunately, despite my lack of technical insight, I managed to fix it myself. Here's what you do:

Open the base by taking the nine screws out that are nearest to the pedals. Follow the wires to their white connection plugs, and make sure that under them the little black balls hang into their holders. Pull a little more wire into the base, as this will prevent the problem from occuring again. Then put everything back together.

It's as simple as that, but the tricky part is to get everything back together properly. The pedals and their springs fall out easily. It's not too hard to put them back together - just have to pay good attention to where the springs should go and be careful everything is in the right place while putting the lid back on the base - but you may need a few attempts. I had some trouble with this the first few tries.

After I did this, the problem didn't return, and a few others have solved this problem the same way since. It's a shame it happens, but it's easily fixed and as a bonus I'm happy to see most parts in the wheel are easily replaced.

If someone happens to try this and have a digicam handy, please make some closeup shots for others, as it seems a very common problem that happens to most people sooner or later.

EDIT: check here, it describes the pedal base for the black MoMo, but this one is nearly identical as far as I can tell: http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/momo_e1.html

Oh my word! what a fantastic thread for this DFP owner. I bought my DFP 5 or 6 years ago.
👍

Recently in GT5 I was wondering if I was not able to obtain 100% throttle response. On many long straights I would see many cars with less BHP pass me (I would move to side to avoid AI drafting me). I will read through your thread and see if I am crazy or actually not obtaining 100% throttle.
 
I fixed my problem with hot glue instead of tape.... and gave the wires some slack and then applied hot glue on the bottom side of the sensors and then a light coat over the wires fixing everything in place. the result was a solid 100% response with no issues at all. it was is as simple as that. I'm very glad i did it and really grateful for this post. Thank you.
 
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